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Kawasaki KE100 Project

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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 00:02 - 23 Oct 2016    Post subject: Kawasaki KE100 Project Reply with quote

Picked up this Kawasaki KE100 a few days ago. Apparently it's been sat for about 3 years and before that was stripped and used on a farm. Guy said it didnt spark, but he hadnt looked into why.
I was told the mudguards are off a completely different bike and the tank is from another model. My plan is to get the bike started, then strip it apart so i can paint everything and replace things that need it and then get it back on the road.

http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu117/elobire/IMG_0296.jpg

First thing i did was pull the plug and verified that it didnt spark. I did some testing and found that the ignition coil wasnt grounded properly because of all the rust. With that sorted it sparks great.
http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu117/elobire/IMG_0295.jpg

Next step was to replace the old oil, fit the exhaust and see if it runs.
http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu117/elobire/IMG_0294.jpg

The seller said the owner before him disconnected the 2 stroke oil tank, but it looks to be connected to me. Just to be safe I premixed instead until i can check it's working. Anyway, i filled it up and petrol started leaking out of the carb overflow...
I dont know much about carbs, but the float needle was stuck in, so i think that's the culprit. Seller said he cleaned the carb so I thought it would have been OK. It's too dark tonight, so I will fit it tommorow and see what happens. I wish i still had my double car garage with lighting and a heater Laughing

So far i dont see much that needs doing other than tidying it up and replacing everything electric, but i'm sure things will come up after a closer look. One annoying thing is that every phillips head bolt has been stripped, including ones inside the engine casings.
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nitrosurf
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PostPosted: 09:59 - 23 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool little Kwak, be nice to see it back on the road.

Good luck!


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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 10:59 - 23 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice little project that!
Keep the updates coming.

There's a nice little TS125, of the same vintage, in the village, but the owner won't sell. Mad
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 19:42 - 23 Oct 2016    Post subject: Re: Kawasaki KE100 Project Reply with quote

Ayrton wrote:
Kawasaki KE100 stuff.


Cool Thumbs Up will be watching this one.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 21:14 - 23 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

A nice little two stroke trailie project, what's not to like?

Should be good for some fun when it's done. If you want to off road don't go too mad on a perfect finish or resto. But if it's a road Queen like my KMX go right ahead! Laughing
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 10:24 - 24 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suntan Sid wrote:

There's a nice little TS125, of the same vintage, in the village, but the owner won't sell. Mad


Punch him harder Thumbs Up
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 11:20 - 24 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
Suntan Sid wrote:

There's a nice little TS125, of the same vintage, in the village, but the owner won't sell. Mad


Punch him harder Thumbs Up


The really annoying thing is that the owner leaves it standing, leaning up against a wall in all weathers for the majority of the year.
He then fettles it, a bit, gets it running again, uses it for a day, then leans it up against the wall for another year!
Both myself and a friend of mine have made offers for it, but he won't sell.
Punching him won't go down well as I'm an immigrant here, I try not to annoy the indigenous population!
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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 22:50 - 24 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad to see people interested in it. I think the bike is more likely to be used off road with a little commuting about town, so i'm not going to worry too much about the finish.

Put the carb back into the bike today after a quick clean and it still didnt solve the problem of petrol overflowing. Removed it again and soaked the float needle and valve in carb cleaner for a few hours and then polished it all up. The result was much better and stopped the overflow. Serves me right for trying to do a quick job the first time.

So next i tried starting the bike but got nothing out of it for a few minutes so i thought i may have flooded the engine and removed the spark plug to let it dry out. Then i realised the HT lead was barely attached to the plug and must have came loose from all the movement Laughing. Gave it a little while to dry out, put it back in and it fired up after a few kicks Very Happy It started revving out of control though, so i shut off the fuel and let it die Laughing

The issue now though is that it dies pretty quick unless I rev the throttle and even then it dies after a little while and becomes hard to start again.
Now that i think about it I remember my friend fucking about with the idle adjustment nob a few days ago, so maybe he messed it up.

Also will it effect things if i'm starting it with the right side casing where the carb is off the bike? I did just leave it off to save a little time.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 09:24 - 25 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hate to stick a dead fly in your honey, but something you said reminded me of an issue I had on an old two-smoke a A long time ago. After it had been standing for a long time, the seals dried out and were letting in air.
This meant the engine would rev it' tits off once I managed to get it running Evil or Very Mad

Also, I notice that you have the cover off that usually covers the carb.
That means that the carb is sucking air directly from the atmosphere and not through the air box.
You may? Find that if you put the cover back on, it may? slow down a bit?
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 25 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

As said if that pretty little bike is going to be a commuter eventually, you need to pull the engine out now for a full total re-build IMO. An air cooled single is as cheap as bike engines get for parts and to have re-built too.

Will be a sweet machine when done though, as don't they weigh naff all making a 99kg KMX 125 look quite lardy?

Sid, keep working on that fool with the TS, a restored yellow and blue wannabe RM/TM would be even cooler!

It's a shame there's not more bikes in Cyprus and opportunities to buy and fix them. I saw a well worn but very late disc braked Honda MTX 200 there once on holiday, and I'd have loved to restore that and have it as my holiday bike.
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 07:48 - 26 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevo as b4 wrote:
It's a shame there's not more bikes in Cyprus and opportunities to buy and fix them. I saw a well worn but very late disc braked Honda MTX 200 there once on holiday, and I'd have loved to restore that and have it as my holiday bike.


There's a fair number of bikes for sale In Cyprus, some "classics", "doer uppers" and the usual stuff. Unfortunately, like any seconhand vehicle here, they're all vastly overpriced and the mentality here is "never drop the price", consequently there's a vast stock of stuff on the market that never sells.
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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 00:50 - 01 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been quite a slow week as i'm waiting for my Haynes manual to turn up before i get stuck in.

I did however get some new spark plugs arrive, so i thought i would try those out. Turned out they where slightly different to what was already in the bike, but it's what the manual I found online suggests so i guess they must be ok. Anyway, after a few kicks it started running and didnt have any problem at all idling this time and the revs didnt shoot up like before. I still had the engine side cover off, so i let the bike run out of fuel and then put that back on and fixed the killswitch at the same time so that i have a decent way to turn it off next time.

Then i tried to start it again, but got nothing Sad I pulled the plug and it wasnt wet at all, so I assume something in the carb got blocked. I took the carb appart again and there somehow was what looked like a thin clear piece of plastic stuck covering the float valve and in the hole was a piece of black material that dissintergrated when i stuck a cotton swab down there. My guess is that there was some crap in the tank.


I think now i'm going to follow stevo as b4's advice and rebuild the engine now and strip the bike down. I'm eager to see what condition it is in. I know someone has been in there before me because the cylinder base gasket has been replaced for a piece of cardboard Rolling Eyes
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 10:17 - 01 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

MOAR! NOW!....... and pictures please Thumbs Up
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 23:57 - 03 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flush the crap out of the tank and clean the tap filters if it's been stood for ages! If your stripping the engine fit some new points and condenser when you've got the flywheel off as its a pain to do unless you already have the flywheel off!And it's worth doing it for a few years hassle free ignition. I had a km100 back in 84 and it put up with silly amounts of abuse for several years before I sold it to finance my road legal ped at 16 yrs old.... Helped get a KH 100 on the road a few years ago ( same motors more or less) and the little 100cc 2t still makes a good short haul commuter
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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 22:15 - 09 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

bladerunner wrote:
Flush the crap out of the tank and clean the tap filters if it's been stood for ages! If your stripping the engine fit some new points and condenser when you've got the flywheel off as its a pain to do unless you already have the flywheel off!And it's worth doing it for a few years hassle free ignition. I had a km100 back in 84 and it put up with silly amounts of abuse for several years before I sold it to finance my road legal ped at 16 yrs old.... Helped get a KH 100 on the road a few years ago ( same motors more or less) and the little 100cc 2t still makes a good short haul commuter


Thanks, i got a bit excited when i first bought it and didnt bother cleaning the tank properly.

Was sure i updated the thread already, but i must have forgotten to click submit. Since my last post i refitted the car and was suprised when the idle needle wouldnt stay in like it did before. Turned out there is supposed to be a split pin going through the top of it and it must have previously been held in place by all the gunk that was jammed in the hole because i dont remember it ever being on there.
Cleaned it all up and quickly created a new pin just to test it.
http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu117/elobire/IMG_0310.jpg

And thats as far as i got. I've been holding back a little because funds are tight and i wouldnt be able to buy much, but i just got a job so i'm not worried about that now Laughing My manual has also arrived, so the next step will be to take a look at the engine to see what condition it's in and then strip the bike and get everything painted and looking decent.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 00:19 - 10 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well just keep slowly plodding away at it as time and spare cash allows. No need to rush and if you want the bike to be a decent reliable useable commuter one day, you may as well take your time to get things right and rebuild the motor for peace of mind too.

I hope you keep the blue colour scheme and graphic design on the tank as it looks really nice, and is a change from Kawasaki green too.

Make sure if the fuel tank is sound and solid enough to use and paint, that you properly de-rust and seal the inside, as you won't want any crap getting into a nicely re-built engine and carb either.

If it's a points ignition system, I'd look into seeing if you can fit a later model CDI ignition for simpler maintenance too, and probably better performance too.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 18:12 - 14 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ayrton wrote:
Since my last post i refitted the carb and was suprised when the idle needle wouldnt stay in like it did before. Turned out there is supposed to be a split pin going through the top of it and it must have previously been held in place by all the gunk that was jammed in the hole because i dont remember it ever being on there.
Cleaned it all up and quickly created a new pin just to test it.
http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu117/elobire/IMG_0310.jpg

And thats as far as i got. My manual has also arrived, so the next step will be to take a look at the engine to see what condition it's in and then strip the bike and get everything painted and looking decent.


Slowly slowly catchy monkey, but keep us updated with detailed pics and write ups Thumbs Up
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Old Thread Alert!

There is a gap of 1 year, 10 days between these two posts...

Ayrton
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PostPosted: 01:19 - 25 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been a very long time since I updated this thread. Progress has been made but not a whole lot.

I decided to strip everything off the bike and repaint the frame as it looked pretty crap up close and had been badly painted before.

http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu117/elobire/IMG_0348.jpg

Here you can see how a lot of the paint was already coming off and the frame starting to rust.
http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu117/elobire/IMG_0350.jpg

And here it is after many hours of trying different things to remove the paint.
http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu117/elobire/IMG_0355.jpg

Next step was to primer the frame. I'm not completely happy with how some of the tight areas turned out as I couldn't quite remove all the paint after putting stripper on it, but i'm not too worried about it.
http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu117/elobire/IMG_0358.jpg

Thats as far as I've gotten so far.
I did do something dumb though and took the cylinder out, wiped it clean to see how shinny it was and then left it on the garage floor over winter. It's fair to say it's not so shinny anymore.
http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu117/elobire/IMG_0334.jpg
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 26 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh dear! Basic mistake Doh! get some OLD very fine USED Wet & Dry/Emery cloth, a good rub over and see if it can be rescued.
Old oily rags work wonders to preserve bare metal stuff.

Bet you wonít make that mistake again?
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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 02:06 - 05 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
Oh dear! Basic mistake Doh! get some OLD very fine USED Wet & Dry/Emery cloth, a good rub over and see if it can be rescued.
Old oily rags work wonders to preserve bare metal stuff.

Bet you wonít make that mistake again?


Gave it a go, but the rust seems far too deep. Not going to make the same mistake again.
Going to get it re-bored, but I'm not sure by how much yet. Would there be any real noticeable difference in power if I go for say 1.5mm over?

More bad news, some of the old paint I couldn't get off in the tight areas has now started to peel from the paint stripper I used. Wasn't too worried about it, but after scraping some of it off it's already starting to rust underneath so it looks like i have to spend a little more time on it Laughing
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ride_to_die
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PostPosted: 15:24 - 05 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad this is still progressing.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 15:59 - 05 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ayrton wrote:

Going to get it re-bored, but I'm not sure by how much yet. Would there be any real noticeable difference in power if I go for say 1.5mm over?


Short answer = no
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