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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 13:38 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: LED bulbs. Reply with quote

I understand they need a resistor if they're going to be used for a turn light but how about as replacements for instrument lighting bulbs? Can you use the bog-basic ones (12v)?
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Islander
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PostPosted: 13:42 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Re: LED bulbs. Reply with quote

Hetzer wrote:
I understand they need a resistor if they're going to be used for a turn light but how about as replacements for instrument lighting bulbs? Can you use the bog-basic ones (12v)?


An non-load dependent electronic relay is better than a resistor for indicators and yes, you can do a direct replacement for instrument lighting bulbs as long as you remember that single LEDs tend to be pretty directional.
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 13:48 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I wondered about polarity but thought that might apply only if a resistor was fitted inside the bulb. Thanks for the heads-up on that.

I shall proceed. Smile
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 13:49 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It depends. I think it can fuck with Canbus or whatever in some modern cars. The system is expecting a certain load on a circuit and if it doesn't get it it will read as blown. On a bike you will probably be fine.


As Islander said LE indicators and resistors is crap. I don't see the point, use a proper relay they only cost ~£10, it's more reliable and you get the benefit of less load.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 13:57 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hetzer wrote:
Yeah, I wondered about polarity but thought that might apply only if a resistor was fitted inside the bulb. Thanks for the heads-up on that.

I shall proceed. Smile


Polarity matters but if the wiring is standard then you should be fine. Thumbs Up Resistors don't care about polarity by the way but a diode does.
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 14:52 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a pre-CANBUS 1995 wagon. Smile
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 18 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

They can be WAY too bright, if they are, you can paint the top of them black. Also use bulbs the same colour as the warning light. White ones tend to shine through the tint.

Also be aware that they can glow faintly when subjected to very low currents like earth leakages and power tracking across the surface of old, damp PCBs. All the instrument panel LED bulbs on my VFR glow dimly after about an hours riding in heavy rain.
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Hahadumball
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PostPosted: 02:02 - 19 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

i use 12v led 501 (t10) bulbs in my dash, fine for speedos, (white looks good) and everything else except main beam light.. because that blue is damn bright and blinding all where plug and play

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T10-CAR-BULBS-LED-ERROR-FREE-CANBUS-13-SMD-XENON-WHITE-W5W-501-SIDE-LIGHT-BULB/152104094658?epid=1971457297&hash=item236a1c4bc2:m:mRJhpw8M2z52NRLGKN3VOyg
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 12:12 - 19 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Also use bulbs the same colour as the warning light. White ones tend to shine through the tint.


Directly contradicts the conclusions from this massive test of LED bulbs.

"Note that we have found that the white or “Super White” LED brake lights usually work best with the red tail light lens. There’s no need for red LEDs and, in fact, they usually do not put out the same light levels as the white LEDs"

https://www.webbikeworld.com/1157-led-brake-lights-motorcycles/


Main conclusion is that the good old incandescent is still best for visibility and difference in brightness between stop and tail.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 12:27 - 19 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt B wrote:
stinkwheel wrote:
Also use bulbs the same colour as the warning light. White ones tend to shine through the tint.


Directly contradicts the conclusions from this massive test of LED bulbs.



No it doesn't.

Stinkwheel is talking about using LEDs on the dash to illuminate warning lights. The link you posted is about brake lights.
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 16:20 - 19 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bog-standard LEDs (non-resistor/diode) are working fine for instrument lights. They did need to be the right way around.

Thanks guys. Smile
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 16:24 - 19 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Turns out it wasn't a blown bulb, the twat had removed the bulb to hide that the 4WD/2WD something or other isn't working properly. Vacuum solenoid pipes look ok so I'll get it up on the ramps tomorrow and check the rod and switches etc. Hopefully it'll just be lack of use or a bunch of crud.
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 17:06 - 20 Dec 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

The things you have to learn.

One of the vacuum-pipes is sucking, the other isn't, so I guess that's why the actuator-rod isn't moving and shifting from 2WD to 4WD. I'll get the solenoid-valves off tomorrow and see if a game of croquet with them shakes some life into the fuckers (otherwise it's £40 for a new pair).
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 6 years, 122 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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