Any plumbers on here, or someone in the know?

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[iooi]

[stephen_o]

Qualified Plumber here.

I have seen some "jobs" in my time but...oh dear.

1st, tank overfull water level needs reducing I suspect the "reinforcing" plastic or brass insert that is supplied with the new ballcock and valve to give a more solid push on the tank hasn't been fitted which won't help. Rotate the ball as per previous posters pic which will force the arm up and lower the water level.
2nd, straighten the overflow so the water can get away.
3rd, replace the flexi with rigid copper pipe that can withstand both the fixed pressure of the water and the pressure of the tank and fittings pushing back.
4th, get a byelaw 30 kit to update your installation to current standards or at the very least get a lid - water regulations now insist on these being lidded - it may not be "drinking" water but it is potable (used for washing, showering, brushing teeth etc) so needs to be done.

good luck - I hope you didn't pay much and make sure as others have said that in the interim your insurance is covered and if there is a leak then - you didn't know anything about it because otherwise you would have problems with your insurance policy.

Stephen
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current scoot 2009 Yamaha YBR250 + Current Pootle 2013 Nissan Leaf

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[stephen_o]

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[stephen_o]

https://www.draytontank.co.uk/byelaw-30-water-tanks-landing.htm

https://www.southernwater.co.uk/Media/Default/PDFs/WaterSupplyRegs.pdf I haven't the time at work to highlight the exact bits - the download is the full guide for consumers - although it is the Southern Water version every water supplier in the UK and most of the EU use this.
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current scoot 2009 Yamaha YBR250 + Current Pootle 2013 Nissan Leaf

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[colink98]

why are you arguing with the plumber about plumbing issues ?
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[Freddyfruitba...]

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[stephen_o]

"Water from the taps in a domestic setting is either drinking water (direct from the mains at high pressure) or it isn't (which is usually when it's been stored somewhere like the OP's tank, and is at low pressure). Depending on the plumbing setup, drinking water may be available from all cold taps in the house, or just the one at the kitchen sink."

Absolutely correct. That could almost have come from a text book! I did 4 and a half years at college 2 1/2 days a week in addition to a full time job and then worked self employed for 4 years doing a variety of jobs from 1st/2nd fix site work to emergancy call out floods, central heating failures (divertor valves etc) and bathroom replacements. A personal non favourite was macerators.

The OP is right in the definition from the dictonary of Potable water. The issue is that most people assume drinking water in a house to relate to only that from the kitchen cold tap. Building regulations mean that water to drinking standards should be available from more than one outlet in a domestic house and all commecial outlets (unless labelled by the tap - do not drink). this is encompassed in the water regulations supply and fittings regulations which I was trained on the 1999 act but it has been updated recently.

This resulted in the regulations one of which is known as byelaw 30 which meant that an existing installation which was being worked on - as per the OP - the occupier should be advised of the new regulations and the apparatus upgraded. This was because people were unknowingly brushing teeth, washing clothes and dishes in water that was stagnant, filthy and in warmer weather there was an extremely small chance of a user gaining a waterborne illness.

In the regulations the term potable water was defined as "all water supplied by an undertaker (the word for a water company) into a property for use in the property" therefore putting all uses of water except central heating into the potable category. This is why the installation upgrade kits were produced and stocked - the byelaw 30 kits I linked to earlier.

It is in the Op's interests to at least correct the poor workmanship, there is a risk that the braided hose can fail internally - I have known these go very quickly especially when twisted because of the back pressure.

As a final point - It is possible and legal to wash your clothes and dishes and shower etc with "grey" water which is usually harvested from a rainwater downspout but any tap outlets must be marked "not drinking water" personally I would love such a system but the complexity means it really is only appropriate when specified in a new build.

I wish the OP luck. I know it isn't nice to be told that something you have paid money for hasn't been done right.

Stephen
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current scoot 2009 Yamaha YBR250 + Current Pootle 2013 Nissan Leaf

[recman]

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[iooi]

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[stephen_o]

That has all changed now again, it was decided that building houses like yours with all the cold draw straight from the mains supply but too much pressure drop on the street main so now it is back to one mains cold tap in the kitchen and everything else fed from a tank but the tank having to comply with the new regs so the water is safe to drink.
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current scoot 2009 Yamaha YBR250 + Current Pootle 2013 Nissan Leaf

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[weasley]

As far as I can make out there is:

- water you should drink (ie mains water)
- water you can drink (ie from the loft tank)
- water you should not drink (grey, foul and surface water).

Tank-fed water is not recommended, but is ostensibly OK for incidental consumption.

Our previous house had a loft tank, with lid - it fed the bathroom and we all cleaned our teeth in it and swallowed small amounts. Still here.

Our current house is all fed from the mains, with a soft water circuit and a fresh water circuit. No tanks at all above ground level. I like it better.

Back to OP, stephen_o has given some great advice and insights - I'd be looking at doing that stuff. Remember also that if your loft is insulated then NOT to insulate between the ceiling and the water tank - the heat lost through this small area helps keep the tank from freezing.
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[stephen_o]