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Best drill bits.

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TheSmiler
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PostPosted: 09:55 - 23 Jan 2018    Post subject: Best drill bits. Reply with quote

Possibly a carry on from the random banter thread but as I'm needing some for the bike might as well post it here.

I've got 3 bolts to drill out on the engine block of the k, which should be all fun and games. However before I waste money on more drill bits has anyone had any luck with any certain make before. Or can anyone recommend the best ones to use.

It is possible to drill them out as I've done it before on the engine a long time ago.

Offending bolt bottom left.
https://i.imgur.com/0FyyNQql.jpg

Bolt removed.
https://i.imgur.com/ESHdDGol.jpg
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:33 - 23 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got a magazine of HSS bits from here and just top them up as they are used. Drill bent/broken? No fucks given. https://www.ukdrills.com/drill-sets/hss-drill-magazine-for-metal

Where that one is though, I'd suggest making a pilot hole then using a reverse drill, it shouldn't be in that tight.

It would also lend itself to a drill guide. If you find a short piece of alloy or steel bar that fits neatly in the bolt recess of the rocker cover, you can drill a small hole bang down the middle of it with a drill press. Then put the rocker cover back on, insert your piece of bar over the broken bolt and drill down the middle of it to get a perfect pilot hole.

Keep your drill cool and lubricated (use WD40 at a pinch) and go slow, don't rush it.
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TheSmiler
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PostPosted: 10:44 - 23 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers stinkwheel. That looks like a decent set and not bad for the money I'll get one ordered.

When I drilled the bolt you can see in the image I just centre punched it made a pilot hole then used a larger bit to get it out. That was with a neighbours cheap old corded Bosch drill.

Whilst I'm here have you ever replaced the chuck on a drill before I've got a makita drill sitting doing nothing. With 3 chargers and 6 batteries because the chuck has gone.

Just wondered how hard it is.
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 11:21 - 23 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

i recommend cobalt drill bits, they far superior over the standard HSS and I find most HSS even Bosch and Heller to be totally useless.

The downside is that whatever drill bit you snap is an even bigger ball ache!

Like stinkwheel idea of a drill guide, not sure how it would work once the rocker cover is back on. I would raise the drill guide with spacers then go for your pilot hole.

Would also recommend a proper centre drill bit for pilot holes

https://4.imimg.com/data4/DJ/MS/MY-27234070/centre-drill-bits-250x250.jpg
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 11:23 - 23 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried about three sets of drill bits of varying quality and expense, sometimes there is a bolt that will just not succumb.

Either it's drilled off at an angle, or you can't get enough downward pressure on it due to location.

This was the reason for buying a welder. Tack a few blobs on and back it out with pliers. Great for aluminium cylinder heads and steel exhaust studs. I'll probably never use easy outs again (hopefully!)

I'd always planned on getting a welder, and it's come in handy for some small repairs, eventually I'll be trying it out for real.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 11:27 - 23 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

TheSmiler wrote:
Cheers stinkwheel. That looks like a decent set and not bad for the money I'll get one ordered.

When I drilled the bolt you can see in the image I just centre punched it made a pilot hole then used a larger bit to get it out. That was with a neighbours cheap old corded Bosch drill.

Whilst I'm here have you ever replaced the chuck on a drill before I've got a makita drill sitting doing nothing. With 3 chargers and 6 batteries because the chuck has gone.

Just wondered how hard it is.


Easy. It's usually a screw thread of some sort. Google your drill, get the correct chuck and then bash the old one off with a pipe wrench or something. They usually need a sharp twat.

Something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Makita-Keyless-Chuck-13-Mm-196306-3/2254766870?iid=131955602898

although you can get cheaper if you go unbranded.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 11:41 - 23 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

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chris-red
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PostPosted: 11:48 - 23 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chucks are ok to remove, the method is simple but it can be awkward. When I changed one on my Dewalt it had a torx bolt down the down the center I walloped a bit into it held it on a ratchet then put the drill in reverse and it undid it.

Word of warning with a keyless chuck if the drill didn't come with one you will need to use the power of the drill to undo/tighten it. It's only a problem if like me you have a keyless chuck on an old corded drill and keep unplugging it before I have remove the drill bit.
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........
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PostPosted: 12:09 - 23 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
Chucks are ok to remove, the method is simple but it can be awkward. When I changed one on my Dewalt it had a torx bolt down the down the center I walloped a bit into it held it on a ratchet then put the drill in reverse and it undid it.

Word of warning with a keyless chuck if the drill didn't come with one you will need to use the power of the drill to undo/tighten it. It's only a problem if like me you have a keyless chuck on an old corded drill and keep unplugging it before I have remove the drill bit.


The chuck retaining screw will be a left hand thread. Putting the drill in reverse will tighten it.

Pretty much all keyless chucks have a fixed section that you can grip to react against when locking/unlocking. Although nobody uses it because you can grip the top and use the drill motor, using both hands on the chuck is the 'correct' way.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 13:52 - 23 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

garybee wrote:
chris-red wrote:
Chucks are ok to remove, the method is simple but it can be awkward. When I changed one on my Dewalt it had a torx bolt down the down the center I walloped a bit into it held it on a ratchet then put the drill in reverse and it undid it.

Word of warning with a keyless chuck if the drill didn't come with one you will need to use the power of the drill to undo/tighten it. It's only a problem if like me you have a keyless chuck on an old corded drill and keep unplugging it before I have remove the drill bit.


The chuck retaining screw will be a left hand thread. Putting the drill in reverse will tighten it.

Pretty much all keyless chucks have a fixed section that you can grip to react against when locking/unlocking. Although nobody uses it because you can grip the top and use the drill motor, using both hands on the chuck is the 'correct' way.


I must have miss remembered from when I did it re the direction.

The(My) dewalt chucks do not have this.

The DW battery drills I have used have some kind of gearing that lets you turn it one handed, and locks it when you do, it doesn't use the motor as you can do it without a battery.

There is nothing to grip with a second hand.

https://media.rs-online.com/t_large/F7072838-01.jpg

My corded which was converted from a traditional chuck does not have this 'lock' so it is next to impossible to remove a bit without it plugged in and using the motor.
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 14:42 - 23 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

cb1rocket wrote:
i recommend cobalt drill bits, they far superior over the standard HSS and I find most HSS even Bosch and Heller to be totally useless.


Motion seconded. Cobalt drills won’t stop at anything. Stainless will slow them down, but not stop them.
Do not buy Bergen. Got two briefcase size sets of Bergen drill bits at work and they’ll be blunt before they’ve taken out half an inch of metal.
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Luckyfish13
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PostPosted: 06:32 - 26 Jan 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

+1 Cobalt bits
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