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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Pete. |
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Pete. Super Spammer
Joined: 22 Aug 2006 Karma :
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Posted: 00:35 - 07 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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I could turn those studs for you, if'n you want. ____________________ a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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Pete. Super Spammer
Joined: 22 Aug 2006 Karma :
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Posted: 00:51 - 07 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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Ok mate.
If I were to make them it would be by turning down a 12.9 cap screw. It's my favourite material for making that sort of thing. Needs a good split die to cut a decent thread on the OD but the result is a stud of decent strength and known quality material. ____________________ a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 10:26 - 07 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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Aye, split die was the road I was going down. Got that from the stockholders rather than ebay. I'll do the fat studs last in case it goes ping.
Got some full-on blank looks when I asked them for a 3/8" x 26tpi BCT die though (That's the thread they use to hold the gearbox onto the back of the engine). Even had a man in a brown coat come out from through the back to ask what it's for and if that's what I really meant. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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Posted: 15:10 - 20 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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Change of plan regarding the gearbox. I was going to spring for a new 5-speed box which come in at £780.
I check ebay every couple of days for second hand parts and just got in first on a 4-speed box at £190 delivered.
Now the problem with the 4-speed boxes, other than extreme clunkiness, is there is a massive hole in the gearing between 3rd and 4th so you're pretty much revving out in 3rd before you can shift to 4th and still be able to pull.
There is a close ratio gearset available for the 4-speed boxes which moves the fitst three gears closer to 4th and removes that hole at the expense of a slightly taller first gear. Can be a problem with a 350 but I ought to have the power and torque in the new motor to deal with this.
Standard: 1st = 2.78:1, 2nd = 1.84:1, 3rd = 1.36:1, 4th = 1:1
Close ratio: 1st = 2.50:1, 2nd = 1.66:1, 3rd = 1.23:1, 4th = 1.:1
I'd initially looked at doing this but a second hand 4-speed box usually gores for £250 then you need to throw another £250 at it for decent bearings and the close ratio gears. Then you're 3/4 of the way to a 5-speed box anyway.
The best bit? This one already has the close ratio gears fitted AND a sealed bearing conversion. This means the bearings inside it are European not Indian and are therefore round and I can now fill the gearbox with gear oil instead of 00 grade grease (which has to be one of the most unpleasant substances found in and around a motorcycle).
So only one major componant left to buy which will be an electronic ignition system.
If I later decide I want to upgrade to a 5-speed box, it isn't difficult to change it out with the engine still in the frame, or it wont be with the removable studs I'm making. Half a days work to do and I wont lose anything on this 4-speed box if I sell it on.
Both boxes have a 1:1 ratio for top gear so swapping a 4 for a 5-speed box wont require any alteration to the primary or final drive gearing either.
I actually quite like the quirkiness of the 4-speed boxes. They are delightfully "agricultural" yet very direct once they're actually in gear (rather than half in or in one of the many false neutrals). Also a neutral finder lever is always a talking point. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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The Shaggy D.A. Super Spammer
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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Posted: 20:23 - 20 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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Also fitted the swingarm. Piss easy job, It sits on metalastic bushes, not bearings so it literally bolts into the frame so the inner bush is held ridgidly, the swingarm movement is all by deforming of the bush. I shit you not. So important not to fully torque the bolt down until the shocks are fitted. I may adjust this further at a later point so they are locked down in a neutral position with rider sag in place (sounds fancy. Actually means sit on the bike than loosen and tighten the nut).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YpwT_wUYNOgPE6SmvhtpsPwqNrWLQtASkFeINLDOlARdg5-seGFfQw_SZJ9Lymwpnn1xQ5NqTAYMVvkgs3brMpZLg3bHJRJQaBPfIESCoWBVwmRQF-JiIEBwsoWAtP6rwAF8y2cNFQ=w1176-h882-no
I don't use a torque wrench much on a bullet, it's asking to strip threads but here it seemed appropriate. If these are going to strip, it's a problem.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rDqApu8hoLf_8iWmiEk1NFQI73gpn26yUkradZTd83Kfb22wzHrqeI2NqHw2-BLmEmbxebJRz4hmGV8KK7yP3KVSuFLx8AW2KrbNzpOeXuF76z43fWKITKVC3vWLl_Aog2a-gGYlUw=w1176-h882-no
My policy of buying some extras when I get oddball fasteners paying off. Good quality zinc plated M10, nylok shoulder nuts for the shocks.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VzylSXUiVSF2u0ctqr3-esWoW3ZSFh08-RLs7Skvi96QTNwG_10Uy3IRq5XUqAM_z0YqpA1mji0o62Xce5R1XtWwjD5vJN9DyHC6SfSeqHYAb2qO3aDTmUj4xqvViksU9ff8RNU8VA=w1176-h882-no
Likewise grade 8,8 bolts with an appropriate plain section for the top mounts. I've left them deliberately over-long. I may use this as an attachment point for a luggage rack or mudguard stay later.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3gWUkNdyucZxNWU88W9wsMT_79Qb385Um3RqlH6o7OZWx8vM7Mvlv5Et_qie2L2YYJP0G6uM9u6KubFHUp86Go-XDyaGZ2CIih2C8l6ADwpkP_9EUvXzTDMOGDB6adJslqItwVIT8A=w1176-h882-no
I'm not sure about the shocks. They are branded "forsa". Not sure if they are any good or not but they'll do to park the bike on for now. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 22:10 - 20 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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Stripped the forks i got off ebay a while back. I had low expectations here because a whole load of water came out of them when they were turned upside down but I was prepared to replace internals, maybe even stanchions. I could see the lowers were good and the stanchions looked ok.
The stanchions on these are usually in good nick anyway because they have shrouded forks as standard (still undecided if I'll go shrouds or gaiters on this one).
Anyway, first thing, bottom nut off. Not confidence inspiring. This should be a bastard, it should also have a copper washer under it. It was finger tight and no washer. Someone has been in here before.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ACIqadm9P5zwgOYd7NCBiafGgEJknMVRYNIv1Klm2_6GNT52hYAhIY1vzMTw7eYtMyh4xcz1Ju-z7VcbTOwcSOJTbrPHxfa9KTWmlzdW2gVxL5c-Df39ICv9fSZDEyHdr2-QvO2sAw=w662-h882-no
Having done this job before, I know the lip of the fork lower is quite fragile. As such, I invested in a special tool in the form of ta tight fitting steel collar to protect it last time I did the fork seals on my 350. Now paid for itself twice.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/14oYYlYpCMqi9voVPnoxrKRc4RIr-wOBTQjjLHqm9AX8tAbeTZP9mE6QvlT2HI3UbTznTwhZTzo2wzXXE6VrsRCYQSYxOTOwfnkkU8AtOc9kV6fkViYux_fOotkn9B4PJ_9gwdChOQ=w662-h882-no
How abu that then? Yes, Enfield Bullets have cartridge damped forks. Don't let this fool you into thinking they are like modern forks because the travel is extremely short and clunky. However, they have proper valves and discs and everything.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ebipdAJRTUCrZnxOxcBpmJnzs8KgHC8E6oXeO_JII5Fwb0ZqFoTCWuymmGZFuQehTEmMwtxm_KLwPESomVRjNoDKJNuCFboZbDlcwcBk3BJdvi0CCT9esNZRpglyxDr6qVEE8MR58w=w1176-h882-no
Here's the main use for that steel collar. Prying out the old oil seals with a big scrwdriver. There are two proper seals with a spacer between them and no dust seal or bushings. Perversely, they do actually work and rarely leak.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VJ8OL5cZ2wCifjdj-lj8FLqDFXzespm-RzOv8TB6FNIh3sjPwDYLdl0q6Dci-EQNKRLyOOMJn8B57epWARoxMKawiA_k7QfBS8hNJGDUOTL30MjXD0x0bqk6saaMuX3rzFI0eBqmFg=w1176-h882-no
Yeah. Probably not supposed to look like that but it seems mostly superficial yak.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sOiG6OYtW-ttUmWQg93t_00Zjz8kJ-2tFmK5W9YFt3iJIjVNVKNFqWOfaFZB8iXnp6gzxlA3IGGyZZtB53xR9wvNDoOEytGXP3M9zOlTW6-ZbfQf8EOGpJLxZhMBMCVA26EaxGJfxw=w1176-h882-no
This collar was also finger tight and is also usually a bastard so these have been all the way apart.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DNKz8iZEr6KUD47YYGwmV1_hhrw7zlami_GadGTIz2bsboIyLweJXvobLzJB5k680IkUEEojtrhzrN1KHwybApvTycmz-LYeLlletkakKEuAHVeIeNG6evPV-vCA0If-smdBw0iluQ=w1176-h882-no
Not clear how they got water in them though. maybe they were struggling to get the seals out, brimming them with water, reassembling and bashing the top with a mallet is an old trick to get seals out that hardly ever works.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JhzTGi0CmR1PYVSwRptSxjNMmjCHpwZxf0xvQJjxPdYoDZoEpXwXbHIT_IswavtqNLwzaFe2mvEst_dDXVDOdaqEeRNLDKDEEg9OfQK65N7-Vkt8av2IneRzLw9-PI4Imm97teRQIQ=w1176-h882-no
Forks apart. The damper assembly strips down further. Later models have a spring over the damper stud between the two valves, putting more pressure on the valve washers to increase the damping effect. I've checked the part numbers and all the other parts are the same, just need the two springs at a quid each.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yEBLW6Qcqv9Wy-uA_nY4BIGKhiWqB9kwSb5B5CAmxAV-7gcl3_nbAoQR9bo44d_N-O6HAUbgmq9S6YkB9yibcTFKWumEi0P3C_L1yy94zQro6Tr4OM1RJxdDXFiBBV-9qniVpUL2iA=w662-h882-no
I'm pretty sure these are salvageable so I'll try the old vinegar trick, worked well on the engine bolts. I managed to dismantle the damper stud and valve assembly without too much trouble. If not, the whole assembly can be had from India for £25 delivered, just takes a couple of weeks to arrive.
Also need to do the insides of the forks stanchions but I'll need more vinegar and a big bottle brush.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VhNbISXa8J35vjk0s9N3m0mgpotYHZDmIZrCYKFBqxC6gz3oKB1XYHTe__muvYto70gh7Yx_rg8ba6GUGid2ZHeU6r5_WuTrZ_TcfpdH0vJNZvw4RMOsFDPkcCAngOQRK1yqUX3HyA=w1176-h882-no ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 21:36 - 21 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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Had an interesting insight into someone elses head tonight. When I bought this bike, some of the things done to it were more than a little unorthadox. I have referred to the previous owner as a fuckwit before but this is perhaps a tad harsh, they obviously had some understanding of motorcycle mechanics... No, wait. He left bits of broken piston ring in the crankcases, he's a fuckwit.
Anyway, butterfly effect. You're building a custom bike (bobber,barn find, cafe racer hipster nonsense) and have decided to use an obscure front end off a late 1950's sidecar outfit with massive leading axles and a very oddball twin, single leading hub (as in two, half width, single leading, one each side). The butterfly flaps its wings.
Because of this, the speedo drive, which the Indians intelligently relocated from the back to the front wheel to avoid having an 8ft long speedo drive cable running the entire length of the bike (standard on most classic Brit. bikes), no longer fits. A light breeze is deflected
Aha. I could put it on the back wheel, just like they used to be, thinks he. I know, I'll obtain a 60 year old speedo drive gearbox and fit it to a 2003 Indian hub. The breeze strengthens and passes out over the sea.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/S3QSavTxSEkH-WVBpsHucpWI66jqm_XTzIJU-X2BKG5cvC0Xoqb4-lOmaY_2vvUsAZYfvPw7L6fYEN00Xk0-MBHJA8gumeWYT6LuMTe5YonHT0Qm2nh2njXobktSa66ZrK5-L7cVWw=w662-h882-no
Ah, but this doesn't fit. Perhaps I could replace one of the front wheel spacers with a speedo drive from a modern Indian bike? The wind drops momentarily as the sun comes out.
No, that would be too simple. But there is clearly no place to fit this thing on the rear wheel and it would need notches to engage with the speedo gearbox. I know. I'll remove the bearing dust seal and file some notched into the alloy of the hub. Coreolis force picks up the breeze and amplifies it, swirling hot air into the upper atmosphere.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/N01wLs6NcVYQo-pa-3Mkt1ZndsYuXnW18sRgpPNE4vmWoHTDeVcL_YibGmVHLqm48cwpl1auOMZO-kz91jmUah4x1ZxHmRd3gxz5G7cR4U2vyBzK3ZpUX-HpmQkuWjpfZFJkSC-87w=w1176-h882-no
Ahh. But now the spacer that butts against the bearing centre is too short, it doesn't go all the way through the speedo drive. I'll need to use a longer spacer here. A vortex begins to form as cold air descends to replace the hot air
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nSMpIki4ClwGBkoe3TJ5a84WMq-_xDjaGi2Rmu_J6IhqP57poi2MY85ao7PPD16BcvQ-0qsVtRPDhPu14YD8WsZkVc4nYBmRaenSKruFThcmBIDRORlpgmDAjcqf9KfziNgd8qmnAA=w1176-h882-no
But wait. That makes the entire hub assembly too long to fit between the forks of the swingarm. The vortex accelerates.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sl2VNiEUq_yTfimz_s3Oud8T9NHKSepXnYacskIDcYZXP-GiDtOTmpwALdHOA1ErP_D7Jhx7Ok1E3RlJYjBGbbr-T3CEU-spzpb54jfI-v8WzK32fd-d2sDoQTpb-q61jWa1dW2-pg=w1176-h882-no
Ahh fuckit. I'll just file away the other spacer so it slots into the fork ends. Oh, and while I'm at it I'll just randomly hacksaw the end off the locating stud/pivot pin of the brake drum so the nut doesn't fit on it properly. Now I can fit my 8ft long speedo cable. Tornado.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8gNIRFrn4OcUf795rzpzetmEsXQwpvrC9Ox616VuGYxrKnH2gKHFfDSUebRsmpzvpoQXWZZvK4nk6nAqZ_E3C8gXIjRX33KOVcjyLZjtJNbXXGPc9EqB78zUVtieZKQxoYP0pEivNA=w1176-h882-no
So, a long road for a short cut really. It's not actually all that bad but I'll need to replace the bearing seals and all the spacers and the brake pivot pin (no Idea why he cut the end off this). It must have been an utter BASTARD to assemble because he'd have had to get that small spacer in place between the speedo drive and the hub with the outside spacer already in place and without the benefit of the dust seal to locate it in. I hope it nipped his fingers!
On the plus side, the brake drum and shoes are brand new, never been used.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aVoYNoBewz-QzpasNZ3DfB5ATdJ8n2w1T5XSvOYrV83A8LMR3U_3o_EDxYaEoGcYBwvXOQDovcZFyinpEgPRYpB6rDIJmjTsU92gKPG89Bm2pOETbGUxvSniHF9nezyk0Folz24XBQ=w1176-h882-no
The design is quite neat really. The brake drum. cush drive vanes and rear sprocket are all one piece. This connects to the brake plate and bolts to the left hand chainstay by a stub axle. You could fit the chain at this point, tension it and leave it in place.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZLWhk3ITY-c-EviVhkyXQMPvvnMERU725Hr5cZWmY2KJgi0di_Z1ivE96QMAzd_5mmoITBtNZ3AHx4QhApHr4BJhUgiHc92D5093f7kPgy1LT17Q14SnWGp94-d0gFYU7gLQGMNW_A=w1176-h882-no
You can see the chopped off locating stud with its nut at the bottom left of the brake plate.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lLMGpaFivqukZKyjYURz2jX2gEv8SuqoC33OUAuprwbRIMABZUj7aOc7ftaCRfkgMrIryttuST8ctCpTKKBeM4AQPTOQc0D-Ogl2p7E2Cyq3GSbT5Vmg0d90MLGyuhVO1GMd8mOn6A=w1176-h882-no
To fit the wheel, you just slot it onto the cush drive fins, insert the spacer and push the spindle through. Wheel removal is the reverse. Literally undo one nut slide the axle out and the wheel's off without disturbing either the chain tension or the brake. (Yes, I know the axle goes through from the right side, I just wanted to check it went through all the bearings)
Oh, I also cleaned up the fork lowers in hot, soapy water and started the inside of the stanchions soaking in vinegar too. The damper rods assemblies are already starting to look pretty clean. I only paid £98 for these forks so I'm prepared to put some work into them to get them working. Considering re-springing them at assembly.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JsZNFvd6JwUh3W3zcNnphI8cldv3ldv7V2MksiErr7t2Wjgm-91YVNte3T8cDmGHlfysDAmjOrqbpxJGoGDTrkl8myRg15CqCOKHAA1x4m0Yq9DAHHOG759x-mejOeku-OeFDbU7Tw=w1176-h882-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fhJBu1bQKGdQRiJawaO8rEN4_UYzZhKs7UyGO3jbdaF4naNL3gHpPZelpnnKrTMf2pc-mZ-OVsReO9GSYpiTEwbQoIzmvY7HhAcX4x_CD-KbHt2GaEG0GvRI6Gq_IdlcfW9qy39X0Q=w1176-h882-no ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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virus World Chat Champion
Joined: 17 Aug 2006 Karma :
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Posted: 21:47 - 21 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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Interesting rear axle setup, you say the axle goes in from the right? Maybe its worth looking into the armstrong MT350 style 2 part rear axle and maybe seeing if you could get one made to suit this?
They have a stub axle that goes in from the left and hold the hub assembly with a external thread in a female end, then a main axle that goes in from the right and screws into this stub axle, that way you can take just the right side axle out and remove the wheel.
Cheers
John ____________________ own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance. |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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virus World Chat Champion
Joined: 17 Aug 2006 Karma :
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Posted: 22:17 - 21 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 21:03 - 24 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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Now seems like as good a time as any to do some maths. I need to get my gearing sorted.
So there's primary drive and final drive, any gearbox you can fit has a 1:1 ratio for top gear anyway.
Standard bike has a 25t engine sprocket, a 56t clutch sprocket then a 17t gearbox sprocket and a 38t rear sprocket.
The clutch sprocket only comes in that size. The rear sprockets are a ballache to change about because they are built into the drum.
So as standard. 1 engine revolution gives 0.4464 revolutions of the clutch and 0.1997 revolutions of the rear wheel in top gear.
Tyres are 100/90/19" which is 19" + 180mm = 662.6mm wheel diameter. So circumferance = 2081mm.
Peak power at 4500rpm. So 898.7 rotations of the rear wheel/minute. That makes a flat-out 112km/h @4500rpm (69.5mph). Which seems about correct.
Tuned engine makes peak power at 5500rpm so if everything was standard it should be pulling. umm... 137km/h @ 5500rpm. (85mph).
Well that's boring shit. Let's try to gear it for 100mph in top. I can change gearbox sprocket or engine sprocket. The latter means buying a new primary drive chain. So gearbox sprocket then.
Adding 2 teeth will make Umm. Uhh. 153km/h (95mph).
So adding 3 teeth (so 20t gearbox sprocket) gives.. harrumph... 161.3km/h @5500rpm (100.22).
Or the hell with it, a 21t would make it 169.4km/h @5,500rpm (105mph).
Damn I suck at maths.
So fitting a 21t front sprocket and leaving everything else standard should give a theoretical terminal speed of 105mph. Which is not a rediculous top speed for a 40bhp motorcycle, it should pull it. That equates to 76mph in top at 4,000rpm. The power kicks in at 3,500rpm which would be 66mph, below that would be cruising.
Maybe that's too much? There again, it's easier to make a chain shorter than longer and sprockets aren't very expensive.
Thinking about it. It would be casually chugging along at 60mph in top, hooking 3rd and cracking the throttle shoudl yield full-bore-roar almost instantly.
Yeah, I think I'll try 21t. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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nowhere.elysium |
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nowhere.elysium The Pork Lord
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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c_dug |
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c_dug Super Spammer
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Posted: 09:06 - 25 Feb 2018 Post subject: |
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Probably best off with a blow torch, I'm still definitely a learner when it comes to brazing and similar, but any time I've used proper heat from oxy-acetylene on aluminium I've ended up melting the work piece before the ally flows nicely. Could just be that I'm not very good mind
I've had far better results with MAPP gas, and best of all MAPP gas blow torch combined with lots of general heat from a big natural gas torch on our flame hearth.
Nice repair anyway ____________________ I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock. |
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Tankie |
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Tankie Crazy Courier
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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nowhere.elysium |
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nowhere.elysium The Pork Lord
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 6 years, 83 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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