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WR 125 valve gap adjustment

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HappyDays
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 18 Feb 2018
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PostPosted: 00:00 - 25 Feb 2018    Post subject: WR 125 valve gap adjustment Reply with quote

Hi all
Anyone done the valve gap adjustment and what's the best way to get to them.

Cheers.
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HappyDays
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 18 Feb 2018
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PostPosted: 01:06 - 25 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bogeyman wrote:
Keep your grubby mitts out before you fuck it up.


No, the last tit did plenty of that..
It is shocking how some people look after their stuff.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 01:09 - 25 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Start with some feeler gauges (cheap) and proper values specific to your head/engine. Then determine what type of valve train do you have. Shims or the ''classic'' rockers? If shims, then take all the meassurements you need, and then order some shims, if required. If rockers, well time to get your tools out. Thumbs Up

If you have no idea, have a experienced mate checking what you're doing.

Get the feeler gauges (thin metal plates), and start with taking measurements. Write it all down on a piece of paper, then refer to your workshop manual. Maybe you don't even need to adjust the valve clearances.
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HappyDays
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 18 Feb 2018
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PostPosted: 01:16 - 25 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, but its more wr 125 specific about the way the frame is and what you need to take off.
Cheers anyway
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 01:19 - 25 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, the least complicated answer would be just keep removing stuff until you can get where you need to be. Smile
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'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI; MZ 150 ETZ, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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HappyDays
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 18 Feb 2018
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PostPosted: 01:22 - 25 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes like having to remove the back wheel to do a rear brake service on this dam bike..
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 01:25 - 25 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I don't know about that, but yes.
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redeem ouzzer
World Chat Champion



Joined: 06 Oct 2015
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PostPosted: 10:21 - 25 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

happyDays wrote:
Yes like having to remove the back wheel to do a rear brake service on this dam bike..


Laughing

Srsly don’t touch the fucking top end based on the above statement.
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craigT19
Jolly Green Giant



Joined: 09 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 16:13 - 25 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi the WR125 uses the same engine as the R125 both of which have the head from the YP125 majesty scooter.

They use a single cam acting on dual rockers which use the traditional lock nut and adjusters to set clearances without any shims.

Dug this out of some old service notes for the YZF-R125, sorry i dont have them specifically for the WR but i would be very surprised if they are different.

As said above if your not 100% sure you can do this or your abit of an ape with tools... then leave it to somebody who knows what they are doing Thumbs Up


The clearances for the R125 are
Intake 0.1mm - 0.14mm
Exhaust 0.2mm - 0.24mm
Both measured on a cold engine.

From memory you will need to remove the tank, side panels and the radiator. Then front and back of the head remove the 2 inspection covers exposing the valve adjusters.

Next remove the cam chain drive sprocket blank and cam position indicator blank on the left side of the engine.

Rotate the crank anti clockwise (direction the engine rotates) until a small single line (looks like a capital I) lines up with a punch mark on the crank case cover, that will be top dead center and both cam rockers should wiggle ever so slightly assuming the are not under load due to no or negative clearance.

Check your clearances. This is a bit of a pain in the arse tbh as the valves sit along way down in the head, i had a collection of 5 shims i had bent specifically for checking WR and R125 as i was doing them so often at one stage.
If they are ok awesome!... put it back together and go for a ride, if they need adjusting put an Allen key into the adjuster itself loosen the lock nut and move the adjuster out/in, lock it off and remeasure.

Thats as much as i can think of, only other tip is use good tools because if you round off the lock nuts on the clearance adjusters you are opening quite the can of worms.

Cheers
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steve the grease
Crazy Courier



Joined: 26 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: 18:01 - 25 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Set the engine on top dead centre as said. Because its a 4 stroke there are 2 top dead centres
1 Compression
2 exhaust/ inlet

At #2 the exh is just closing and the inlet is just opening, so it will appear that there is no clearance .
You need to have the engine at top dead centre #1 when both the rockers will be loose ( as mentioned in the previous post) and you can measure the clearance properly.

If the engine runs Ok and doesnt sound like a minature anvil being hit ( tap tap tap etc) then it is probably ok and doesnt need checking . Its possible that the exhaust could be a bit tight if you thrash it a lot.
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HappyDays
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 21:54 - 25 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info,
Would you need to drain the tank or can we get away with some in?
Cheers
Valve limits spec below so sound good.
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craigT19
Jolly Green Giant



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PostPosted: 09:22 - 26 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

steve the grease wrote:
Set the engine on top dead centre as said. Because its a 4 stroke there are 2 top dead centres
1 Compression
2 exhaust/ inlet

At #2 the exh is just closing and the inlet is just opening, so it will appear that there is no clearance .
You need to have the engine at top dead centre #1 when both the rockers will be loose ( as mentioned in the previous post) and you can measure the clearance properly.

If the engine runs Ok and doesnt sound like a minature anvil being hit ( tap tap tap etc) then it is probably ok and doesnt need checking . Its possible that the exhaust could be a bit tight if you thrash it a lot.


Thanks for adding i completely forgot to mention getting the right stroke Embarassed .
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Current bike : - 2016 MT-10
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 13:02 - 26 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

happyDays wrote:
Thanks for the info,
Would you need to drain the tank or can we get away with some in?
Cheers
Valve limits spec below so sound good.


You can remove the tank with fuel in as long as you can shut off the fuel outlet (does it have a tap? or sometimes even just leaving the hose on and sticking an M6 bolt up the end of it works). Having somewhere in mind to put the tank down again is important before you lift it off. I find putting it on top of a plastic bucket or an old tyre works well and avoids the paint and fuel tap lying on the ground.
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HappyDays
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 18 Feb 2018
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PostPosted: 17:34 - 26 Feb 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys,
Will give it a try when the weather gets better and post the before and after sound links.
Very Happy
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HappyDays
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 16:42 - 18 Mar 2018    Post subject: wr 125 valves Reply with quote

Well have done the Valves and it was a pain to get to but does seem better.
Check the links out before and after.
Before
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84sXKyGTMWE&t=28s

After
https://youtu.be/q2ePTQSrtrk
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