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Yamaha GT50, tiny 2T goodness!

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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 10:22 - 08 Mar 2018    Post subject: Yamaha GT50, tiny 2T goodness! Reply with quote

As I mentioned in another thread, I took delivery of a Yamaha GT50 this morning.
It’s another jigsaw, as it’s arrived as its component parts in various boxes.
Unlike the XL I restored I actually saw and rode this bike, before it was taken apart, should make things a bit easier.
As far as I know a lot of the parts have been restored and then stored for a few years, there are some new parts not yet fitted.
The frame’s been stripped and painted, the Cyprus summers have served their purpose and there doesn’t appear to be any rust.
I’m not going for a 100% authentic, original spec, restoration, I’ll try and get it running and as clean as possible. No MOT for bikes here, so as long as it goes and stops there’d be nothing to stop me putting it on the road. I probably won’t as there’s plenty of space to have a play on it.
It’s come with the original Yamaha service manuals and a couple of Haynes manuals, one for a TY and another for a DT.

Anyway this is what I wheelbarrowed around from my mates house:-

https://i.imgur.com/MfDVW1T.jpg

First job will be to open those cardboard boxes and see what goodies are inside!

More to follow! Mr. Green
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 01:25 - 09 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

dont know if its any help..but I do know of an old TY80 in a farmers shed in North wales thats got a shagged back wheel if your short of spares..its been in there for at least 10 years now and no one is interested in it
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 09:40 - 09 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

bladerunner wrote:
dont know if its any help..but I do know of an old TY80 in a farmers shed in North wales thats got a shagged back wheel if your short of spares..its been in there for at least 10 years now and no one is interested in it


Do you know how much they'd sell it for?
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 10:17 - 09 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick question.
One of the boxes was marked "battery", it turns out it's a new, lead acid battery, well it was new in Sept 2014.
The battery's still in the box it came in, along with a separate container of sulphuric acid, the acid has not been added to the battery.
Am I right in assuming that the battery will be good, once the acid is added?
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 10:52 - 09 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I couldn't find the forks amongst the piles of stuff.
Turns out my mate had them straightened they were still in his shed, in the wrapping they came in!
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GSTEEL32
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PostPosted: 13:31 - 09 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suntan Sid wrote:

Am I right in assuming that the battery will be good, once the acid is added?


.... Only 1 way to know for sure, and that's run a multi-meter over it once its charged.

Although cheaper, I've never got to grips with these batteries, I've always felt its worth shelling out extra for a sealed unit anyway.

IMHO, I've also thought that these type of batteries exacerbate electrical gremlins. You've obviously got a lot of work to do here, a decent battery would stop you getting caught up in a load of unnecessary loom work ....
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Baffler186
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PostPosted: 13:46 - 09 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would 100% fiill, charge and test the battery. For all we know, the ones in Halfords might have been on the shelf for 2 years anyway. I would perhaps keep it in a steel box until I knew it was good and didn't leak
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 00:00 - 10 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unfortunately my multi meter's back in Wales, so no testing available. Just have to give it a go and see what happens when the time comes.
It's all looks good, still in the original packaging.
Thanks for the advice! Thumbs Up
In other news my mate turned up with some new roller bearings for the headstock. Cool
In other, other news, I can't find a picture for the route of the wiring loom, will have to take a guess and hope for the best.

Need to buy some grease and a soldering iron, (minor repair to loom)!

My immediate plan is to put it all together and see if there's anything missing, I'll then disassemble it and refurbish anything that needs some TLC.
Although there's a brand new set of indicators, I think I might not bother with them, they're huge! Not sure about the headlight either, I might go for a number plate instead.
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GSTEEL32
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PostPosted: 09:10 - 10 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fact he's put a bung in the gap where the carb should be suggests the engine is currently working, which is a good sign.

Any ideas why the bike was stripped in the first instance??
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 09:56 - 10 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

GSTEEL32 wrote:
The fact he's put a bung in the gap where the carb should be suggests the engine is currently working, which is a good sign.

Any ideas why the bike was stripped in the first instance??


The bike was running and usable when it was stripped, about 5 years ago.
My mate stripped it, to start a meticulous restoration, (he's already done a Honda 400/4 and an X7), he got as far as sorting out the frame, had the forks straightened and bought a lot of new parts for it.
Unfortunately for him personal circumstances got in the way and he mothballed the bike. He's now moving house and believes he won't get round to rebuilding it so he's given it to me.

Although the engine is sealed, the carb wasn't so that's going to need a good clean and probably a repair kit fitting.
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 23:10 - 17 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I have a rolling chassis:-

https://i.imgur.com/bbcOWtl.jpg

Since that photo was taken, I've fitted new roller bearings in the steering head, I've got the engine in, exhaust is in place, wiring loom is fitted, controls and speedo are on, rear mudguard done, battery box air box, filter and oil tank are all in.

I'm only doing this to find out what's missing, what needs replacing and what needs restoring.
What's missing, the nut for the swinging arm, exhaust gasket!
What needs replacing, fuel and oil pipes, brake shoes, fork oil.
What needs restoring, well most things really, although a partial repaint has been done, it's been damaged while in storage, a few bits are going to need stripping of some surface rust.
I've cleaned the carb out, i'll have to try it as it is, haven't got a repair kit yet.

This bike does have a couple of oddities, the forks, for instance, one leg has no spring just oil, the other has a spring and oil.
There are no handle bar adjusters on either the clutch or brake cable.
There is no return spring on the front brake, it just relies on the internal springs on the shoes.

Unfortunately, my mate, who gave me the bike had been told that the cables from a fizzy would fit so he bought new ones. They don't fit they're completely different. The seat has a hole in the cover.

I've managed to source a set of new tyres.
I'll be buying some new engine mounting bolts.

So far the worst thing I've found is the lining in the rear hub, it's shagged, there's a groove worn into it which, in turn, is cutting a groove into the brake shoes.
The wheel bearings seem ok, the forks need some new oil.

The most difficult thing so far has been routing the loom, I've got nothing to go on, so it's all guess work, I think it's in the right place now, but who knows.
The easiest thing is moving it around, even with the engine and exhaust in place I can still pick it up.

I'll get another photo up tomorrow.
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 12:36 - 18 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well this is the bike as it stands at the moment:-

https://i.imgur.com/6o47ZV8.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/PGNZZey.jpg

I've just sorted a bit of wiring for the rear brake light.

I'll have another look at the carb today and fit it along with the throttle/oil pump cable.
I'll just need a few bits and some fluids and I'll have a go at starting it sometime next week.
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bypass2
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PostPosted: 23:14 - 18 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good that Thumbs Up
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 19:00 - 19 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not done much today, however I've purchased an inline fuse holder, exhaust gasket, new brake shoes, 2T oil, engine oil and fork oil and a nut for the swinging arm, new tyres should be available on Tuesday or Wednesday.
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 22:38 - 21 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some progress today, I picked up a new set of tyres.
So what you may say, well actually finding a 15" x 2.52 tyre isn't that easy. Pit bike tyres come in 14's and 16's, not 15"

I didn't have any tyre levers and visits to a couple of shops proved fruitless, so I bought 3 large, very cheap, screwdrivers, rounded the ends over and used them.
The homemade tyre levers did their job, the old tyres came off quite easily, the new front went on with not a lot of effort, the rear was a bit stubborn but eventually went on. Best of all, I managed not to damage the old inner tubes on the way out or when reinstalling them!

Hopefully, I'll get around to sorting the carb tomorrow.
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P.
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 22 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know, I'm cheap... but any reason you aren't replacing the old tubes?
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 14:42 - 23 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
I know, I'm cheap... but any reason you aren't replacing the old tubes?


I was going to and had the cash in my hand to pay for 'em but they didn't have any in stock!
I got the old tyres off and the inner tubes looked good, they've had 40lbs in 'em for a couple of days and don't appear to have lost any pressure.

I got round to cleaning the carb properly, it's all back together now, however I was thwarted at the last hurdle, the spring seat, number 20 in the diagram, was missing, Mad , and they don't sell 'em in the ped shop!

https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/yamaha-gt80-1975-usa-carburetor_bigyau0819b-4_e142.gif

I've just made one from some aluminium, basically a 13mm diameter disk with a hole in the middle and a slot for the cable.

I've got the petrol tap soaking in vinegar now, i'll leave it over night then give it a good clean tomorrow.

2T tank is full, pump is primed, a battery charge tonight and a final check of the wiring and I should be able to try and start it at the weekend! Very Happy
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P.
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PostPosted: 14:51 - 23 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Makes sense. Just part of me wonders that yes, they hold air but when it sees any weight or solid 50mph, it may go wibbly wobbly.

Be nice to see how they hold up however!
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 15:40 - 23 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
Makes sense. Just part of me wonders that yes, they hold air but when it sees any weight or solid 50mph, it may go wibbly wobbly.

Be nice to see how they hold up however!


50mph, Shocked , top speed of this little beaut is a claimed 45mph!

I'll get new tubes when I can find 'em!
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 10:40 - 27 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had the battery on charge last night, fitted it this morning.
This resulted in a bit of head scratching, I couldn't understand why the rear light was on without turning the ignition on, to compound this problem I was getting a spark as well, with no ignition.

Turns out I have the ignition switch on upside down, so what I thought was "OFF" turned out to be "ON" with lights! Doh!

Once I'd figured that out, I put a couple of litres of petrol in the tank and checked for leaks, none present. Fitted the tank and fuel lines.

After half a dozen kicks, IT LIVES! Mr. Green Mr. Green Mr. Green Mr. Green

There are a few minor niggles though:-
The carb is leaking at the float bowl gasket.
I need a plug cap, the plug is currently connected with a screw on ring terminal with only one strand of the wire still intact.
I need to set the carb up, it started to race away when I knocked the choke off.
There is an oil leak, which I assume is the gear change oil seal.

I'll get a video up when I've sorted the idle speed, etc!
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 18:46 - 27 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

C’mon Mr Sid, let’s have a few pictures Thumbs Up
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 23:53 - 27 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's one:-

https://i.imgur.com/MgkUSzk.jpg

Well I know it runs now, so i'll be taking it apart and restoring and repairing the bits that need it.
I'll take more photos when I start with the serious tinkering!

The most pressing problem, ATM, is the ignition switch.
Unlike every other bike I've ever owned on this one you turn the key anti clockwise to switch it on. However when the key is in the "Off" position, (fully right), I can't remove the key. When the key is in the fully left position, (which is lights on), I can remove the key, but, the lights are still on, as is the ignition.
I can't find any good reason for this, if anyone can think of something, I'm all ears. I can't locate a replacement switch, I'm not even sure it's the correct switch for the bike!
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bypass2
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PostPosted: 00:17 - 28 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

What about a gt80 ignition switch and other spares are they the same as your gt50. with the float bowel gasket leaking give the float bowl a few taps to see if it stops maybe the float/neddle not seated/stuck. or the float heights
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 06:25 - 28 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Groovy/cool bike is gonna be cool Thumbs Up
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 10:09 - 28 Mar 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

bypass2 wrote:
What about a gt80 ignition switch and other spares are they the same as your gt50. with the float bowel gasket leaking give the float bowl a few taps to see if it stops maybe the float/neddle not seated/stuck. or the float heights


You're right, of course, a 1979, GT80 ignition switch would fit.
Unfortunately the switch from that year is obsolete/unavailable.
It's a 12 wire switch, I can't find a replacement, even using the part number, there are people in far flung places of the world claiming to have one for sale. None of the photos they're using match the part I need.

Anyway, I've just reduced the switch to its component parts. Everything looked remarkably clean and gunge free. There is one component, that fits onto a a central shaft, it can be fitted in two positions, 180 degrees apart, I put it back in place in the opposite direction it was fitted, put everything back together and lo and behold it now works.
The key now comes out in the "Off" position and operates correctly in the "On" position! Hoorah!
I assume someone's been in there previously and put it back together the wrong way round.

I checked the float height when I had the carb apart, It's clean inside, everything was blown out with compressed air before I reassembled it.
The float bowl gasket was a a bit ropy, it has gone really hard. I'll order a repair kit when I'm back in the UK.

I now know that everything works, so I'll start repairing and restoring the bits that need doing, with more photos!
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