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Battery faffery

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James132
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PostPosted: 21:05 - 07 Apr 2018    Post subject: Battery faffery Reply with quote

Hi all,

Start of this year I picked up a 2016 MT-10. Absolutely love the bike.

A few weeks ago, after fitting a new exhaust I went to take it out for a ride and the battery was dead (down at around 11.5v). I assumed this had been because whilst removing the old exhaust, which was a complete C*** I started the bike a couple of times to get some heat into it. Then once the new system was fitted, obviously started it up to hear. After a hour hooked up to the oximiser she fired up.

This week, after being stood up in the garage for 2 days (not on the charger) it was dead again, again reading around 11.5v.

I've read various things online about battery's on modern thou's being lucky to last 2/3 seasons. Is this really the case?

So my question is, what can I do to find the issue?
Poor condition battery not holding charge, or a drain somewhere on the system?

If it was to be a the first, is it worth replacing with a lithium?

Thanks.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 21:24 - 07 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check for a current drain when the ignition is off.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 21:32 - 07 Apr 2018    Post subject: Re: Battery faffery Reply with quote

James132 wrote:
Hi all,

I've read various things online about battery's on modern thou's being lucky to last 2/3 seasons. Is this really the case?


It's easy to accidentally let them go flat if not ridden for month or so.
Most modern bikes have immobilisers or alarm constantly using power from a relatively small battery.
A trickle charger is almost essential if that is likely to happen.
The worst thing for them is to be let go flat, because each time that happens some capacity is loss due to irreversible chemical changes.
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Courier265
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 07 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

One question, do you know what brand of battery you have?

Most bike's I've owned come with a Yuasa battery, however I don't know
about Yamaha because I've never owned one.

As for lithium batteries, I'm interested in some input on that subject
because I'm considering this myself.
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James132
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PostPosted: 22:13 - 07 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
Check for a current drain when the ignition is off.


Electrics isn't my forte,

Disconnect battery, then measure the resistance across pos and neg leads on the bike? What sort of figure would indicate there is a current drain?


Not sure on battery brand, I will check tomorrow.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 22:37 - 07 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

James132 wrote:


Electrics isn't my forte,

Disconnect battery, then measure the resistance across pos and neg leads on the bike? What sort of figure would indicate there is a current drain?


Not sure on battery brand, I will check tomorrow.


Disconnect one lead of the battery, multimeter to DC amps range - you might have to put one of the leads in a different socket on the meter.

Connect one meter lead to the disconnected terminal and the other to the lead that you disconnected from the terminal. Read the current draw from the meter.
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Barnoe
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PostPosted: 23:20 - 07 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you haven't got an alarm of some sort and after the drain test above
your looking at a new battery

as already said Yuasa are good, and on your bike probably £75 to £90 Rolling Eyes you can get cheap batteries from around £20 if cash is tight

I bought an alarm on another bike and after fitting it, found my battery flat quite often. If i ever did that again i think i would invest in an optimate.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:59 - 08 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:


Disconnect one lead of the battery, multimeter to DC amps range - you might have to put one of the leads in a different socket on the meter.

Connect one meter lead to the disconnected terminal and the other to the lead that you disconnected from the terminal. Read the current draw from the meter.


But DO NOT turn the ignition on while you have the battery connected through the meter as above. For current leakage you'll probably be in milliamp range and the draw through the ignition/lights would pop most cheap meters.

Fully charge the battery with it off the bike and check the voltage periodically, see what it comes up to then see if it drops and by how much.

You can get an exide AGM battery for your bike for less than £50 delivered if it turns out to be duff. I usually get my batteries from https://www.tayna.co.uk/
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MCN
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PostPosted: 10:14 - 08 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any real bike garage or car garage should have a High rate Discharger used to hammer the battery and uncover bad cells. One bad cell means the battery is fubar.
A multimeter will only show a battery charge state. To be 100% sure it must be load tested.
(On older (not maintenance-free) batteries it was possible to determine individual cell condition by dipping one test probe into the electrolyte of each cell while the other probe is held on a post. But a more involved explanation required. Even some 'electricians' are no good at batteries.)

And the leakage tests are important too of course.

You have a bike so you MUST have a multimeter too? Yes? 😁
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raesewell
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PostPosted: 10:21 - 08 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put your multimeter onto the terminals and start the bike watching the voltage as you crank it, if it falls below 9.6 volts you need a new battery.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 10:23 - 08 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

raesewell wrote:
Put your multimeter onto the terminals and start the bike watching the voltage as you crank it, if it falls below 9.6 volts you need a new battery.


You really need the HT leads off so the hoowur doesn't start.
Some bikes start on one revolution. Shocked

Not much time to see stuff.
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raesewell
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PostPosted: 10:26 - 08 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

It does help if you have a multimeter with memory function.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 10:36 - 08 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

2 years is a very short life. The battery might be bad but there will be another problem. First thing I would check is the stator -> regultor -> loom connectors. They often get melty.

RC chargers usually have a discharge capacity test. A new battery has 10x more capacity as they degrade, so this will give a good indication how much life is left.
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James132
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PostPosted: 18:38 - 08 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

So today I took the battery off the bike (yuasa for the chap who asked).

I measured the resistance across the bike circuit which was 74Kohms, which to me indicates the bike circuitry is ok and no drains to earth?

The battery is now in the house connected up to the oximiser. I will take it off charge and measure the voltage over the next few days.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 19:26 - 08 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

James132 wrote:
So today I took the battery off the bike (yuasa for the chap who asked).

I measured the resistance across the bike circuit which was 74Kohms, which to me indicates the bike circuitry is ok and no drains to earth?

The battery is now in the house connected up to the oximiser. I will take it off charge and measure the voltage over the next few days.


Just to throw in a mix.

It will take a charge and show 13 Volts and everything looks normal until you ask it to work and it shits it's sel' again. Smile

But it may be perfectly OK after you re-charge it. Smile
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James132
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PostPosted: 20:43 - 08 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
James132 wrote:
So today I took the battery off the bike (yuasa for the chap who asked).

I measured the resistance across the bike circuit which was 74Kohms, which to me indicates the bike circuitry is ok and no drains to earth?

The battery is now in the house connected up to the oximiser. I will take it off charge and measure the voltage over the next few days.


Just to throw in a mix.

It will take a charge and show 13 Volts and everything looks normal until you ask it to work and it shits it's sel' again. Smile

But it may be perfectly OK after you re-charge it. Smile


I have noticed, its never shown above 12.6v whilst connected to the charger.
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raesewell
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PostPosted: 12:00 - 09 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

A good battery fully charged and at rest should show 12.8 volts
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 12:37 - 09 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not seen it myself, but I did read recently that a dirty battery may have tracking through the crud between the terminals, so might be worth cleaning it if that looks like a contender.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 13:13 - 09 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

raesewell wrote:
A good battery fully charged and at rest should show 12.8 volts



Sorry not 13 volts Rolling Eyes

12.8 Volts

Very Happy
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raesewell
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PostPosted: 14:47 - 09 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
raesewell wrote:
A good battery fully charged and at rest should show 12.8 volts



Sorry not 13 volts Rolling Eyes

12.8 Volts

Very Happy

I wasn't correcting you just stating the facts, the .2 of a volt could be important.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 19:09 - 09 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it is not reading above 12.6 while charging I would suspect the charger is shit or on the wrong mode. While charging should be at 14.7v

The resistance measure shows there is no significant leakage but doesnt mean the charging or connections are any good.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:56 - 09 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't count a low resistance as there being no leakage. Stuff can power itself up and semiconductors can leak.
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