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dydey90
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PostPosted: 09:04 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Not so free shed Reply with quote

I've been told that I'm receiving a shed as a wedding present, so I need to construct a base in a 9ft square annex in my garden.
Following the guides on Wickes/B&Q websites it looks like I'll be needing nearly £300 of bits if I dig it out, put down hardcore, mortar and pave with the cheapest paving slabs I can find.
The gift giver (my grandad) tells me I just need to dig out, fill with sand, and put down slabs.

So, do I need to spend £300 on a base for a 'free' or can I go cheap?
I haven't looked into wooden bases, although I'm sure the cats would love one for the wildlife that would nest there.
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Jewlio Rides Again LLB
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PostPosted: 09:08 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Didn't cost me anywhere near that to do a 15 x 10 base for my shed.
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recman
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PostPosted: 09:09 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will you be keeping motorcycles in there?
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 09:22 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

eBay - council style slabs
Sand - half tonne
Cement - half a bag

Dig, add sand and cement mix, level, add slabs.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 09:26 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Re: Not so free shed Reply with quote

dydey90 wrote:
I've been told that I'm receiving a shed as a wedding present, so I need to construct a base in a 9ft square annex in my garden.
Following the guides on Wickes/B&Q websites it looks like I'll be needing nearly £300 of bits if I dig it out, put down hardcore, mortar and pave with the cheapest paving slabs I can find.
The gift giver (my grandad) tells me I just need to dig out, fill with sand, and put down slabs.

So, do I need to spend £300 on a base for a 'free' or can I go cheap?
I haven't looked into wooden bases, although I'm sure the cats would love one for the wildlife that would nest there.


You won't need a foundation for a shed. (hardcore)

Dig it out to about 4"-6" deep. It should be a bit deeper around the edges to support the structure but 6" all through will be much more than enough.
Shutter it using some 6"x??"x1" rough sawn planks with a 1-1/2" post hammered in every 2' to keep the 'shuttering' from bowing.
Order concrete from a mobile batcher.

https://www.easymixconcrete.com/

There is a calculator on this page to determine how much you need to pay for.

http://www.misterconcrete.co.uk/ready-mix-concrete-prices

http://www.misterconcrete.co.uk/news-case-studies-post/news/6-simple-steps-to-pour-a-perfect-concrete-slab

Wheel barrow the concrete into you formation if the truck cannot reach. Some of them can hose it in several feet from the truck if their chute is too short.
Buy a Float and 'float' the surface. It should be nice and smooth then it is easier to keep clean and roll 'bike movers' on it. Embarassed

You have plenty of time to float it as if you keep 'working' the concrete it delays it's set time. But be careful not to force to much aggregate away from the top. It can leave a thin weak layer of mortar or what they call fat in the trade. Smile
Cover with plastic sheet (to keep the rain off).
Uncover and hose the surface periodically as it sets to control the temperature. Concrete is exothermic and the heat generated during the setting can crack it.

I built a garage two cars long one car wide at my house and my concrete cost £400-ish (my 'shuttering' material about £80).

(I was quoted £2500 by a builder to do just the base.)

My neighbours paid £10000+ for their garage.

My whole deal was £7000 but mine is two cars long and there's only one car long. Smile

Make sure you can get easy access too.

And 'sometimes' people want to move a shed later. Shocked

It is a very therapeutic task prepping and laying a concrete floor.

I dare you to time-lapse it for LOLs.
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 09:54 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Iím not wanting to do concrete because eventually, IF I can eventually be arsed, Iíd like to landscape the garden since the whole thing is on a slight slope.

I wonít be keeping bikes in there, they wonít fit though the gate. Just general gardening supplies that are currently taking up valuable space in the garage that could be used for a bike or two.

Strangely, these slabs actually seem to work out cheaper than council slabs at a quick glance?
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Marshalls-Richmond-Smooth-Buff-450-x-450-x-32mm-Paving-Slab/p/144730
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duhawkz
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PostPosted: 10:27 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

As mentioned above

3◊2 pavers, sand and cement will be perfectly adequate for a shed, even if you were keeping a bike in there.

Check you local facebook forsale or freecycle groups and you'll find some pavers cheap enough.
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J4mes
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PostPosted: 10:44 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last year I laid my 8x14 shed on railway sleepers set on sharp sand.

It's not moved, and it was pretty cheap n easy.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 10:47 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Proper council Slabs are 50mm thick. Usually 600x600 or 600x900.
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Freddyfruitba...
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PostPosted: 12:32 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

As it's not for a bike, I'd definitely just use a prefabricated wooden base. SO much easier to lay and to get a decent-looking, flat, level finish, and your back will thank you for not having to lug paving slabs around (and as you say this isn't permanent, will save you from having to move them out again later).

FWIW my own shed was already pretty old when I moved here 20+ years ago and it's decidedly tatty now (OK, it's falling down); however the floor is still as good as new. It just sits on some timber joists, which in turn stand on housebricks.

I'm sure Grandad could be persuaded to spring for the floor to be supplied along with the shed... makes sense all round! Thumbs Up
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syl
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PostPosted: 14:52 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm assuming the shed has it's own floor.

For garden stuff, I'd just use treated timber bearers (i.e. fence posts). If you want them to last 15 years, put a few bricks or breeze blocks in the ground and staple a bit of DPC to the bearers (can put multiple bits of DPC to do any five levelling). Lay them at 90 degrees to the runners on the shed floor. Won't get much cheaper than that.

https://www.lushingtongardenrooms.co.uk/media/uploads/options-economy-sheds-garden-stores-07.jpg.jpg
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MCN
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PostPosted: 15:01 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

syl wrote:
I'm assuming the shed has it's own floor.

For garden stuff, I'd just use treated timber bearers (i.e. fence posts). If you want them to last 15 years, put a few bricks or breeze blocks in the ground and staple a bit of DPC to the bearers (can put multiple bits of DPC to do any five levelling). Lay them at 90 degrees to the runners on the shed floor. Won't get much cheaper than that.

https://www.lushingtongardenrooms.co.uk/media/uploads/options-economy-sheds-garden-stores-07.jpg.jpg


Daffs look splendid. Thumbs Up
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 15:05 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

My workshop was built on dirt with 3" of concrete poured inside on wackered sand & DPM for the floor. You don't need much for a shed, just make sure that whatever you're putting under the concrete is stable and it'll be reet.
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linuxyeti
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PostPosted: 15:34 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make your own base, that's what I've done for the last 3 sheds & greenhouse in our back garden.

£50.00 in materials, tops !!
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 18:45 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

syl wrote:
I'm assuming the shed has it's own floor.

For garden stuff, I'd just use treated timber bearers (i.e. fence posts). If you want them to last 15 years, put a few bricks or breeze blocks in the ground and staple a bit of DPC to the bearers (can put multiple bits of DPC to do any five levelling). Lay them at 90 degrees to the runners on the shed floor. Won't get much cheaper than that.

https://www.lushingtongardenrooms.co.uk/media/uploads/options-economy-sheds-garden-stores-07.jpg.jpg


Definitely liking this idea. I can always pave later on if I don't like it and it'll be easy enough to level as you say.

I wonder if I can get half a ton of sand in the back of the car...
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MCN
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PostPosted: 19:17 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

25 bags.

Make three trips.
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 20:19 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Every time Iíve ordered sharp sand itís been free delivery... (FYI itís sharp sand you want to buy - just in case) Thumbs Up
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Freddyfruitba...
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PostPosted: 20:49 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

dydey90 wrote:
syl wrote:
I'm assuming the shed has it's own floor.

For garden stuff, I'd just use treated timber bearers (i.e. fence posts). If you want them to last 15 years, put a few bricks or breeze blocks in the ground and staple a bit of DPC to the bearers (can put multiple bits of DPC to do any five levelling). Lay them at 90 degrees to the runners on the shed floor. Won't get much cheaper than that.
https://www.lushingtongardenrooms.co.uk/media/uploads/options-economy-sheds-garden-stores-07.jpg.jpg
Definitely liking this idea. I can always pave later on if I don't like it and it'll be easy enough to level as you say.
I wonder if I can get half a ton of sand in the back of the car...

But but but but... why do you want sand if you're going with syl's (and my) solution? Not needed!

So, OP - does your shed come with a wooden floor as standard or not?
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jnw010
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

syl wrote:
I'm assuming the shed has it's own floor.

For garden stuff, I'd just use treated timber bearers (i.e. fence posts). If you want them to last 15 years, put a few bricks or breeze blocks in the ground and staple a bit of DPC to the bearers (can put multiple bits of DPC to do any five levelling). Lay them at 90 degrees to the runners on the shed floor. Won't get much cheaper than that.

https://www.lushingtongardenrooms.co.uk/media/uploads/options-economy-sheds-garden-stores-07.jpg.jpg


This^^
My shed's been suspended on bricks with an air gap for 18 years. 50:50 mix of creocote and used engine oil for a manly aroma and less spiders. Thumbs Up
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Freddyfruitbat wrote:
So, OP - does your shed come with a wooden floor as standard or not?


I havenít actually got the shed yet, just trying to prepare for it.

Going to have to do some digging, thereís grass in the area that needs to be removed first.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 23:48 - 15 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

dydey90 wrote:
Freddyfruitbat wrote:
So, OP - does your shed come with a wooden floor as standard or not?


I havenít actually got the shed yet, just trying to prepare for it.

Going to have to do some digging, thereís grass in the area that needs to be removed first.


The grass will stop being grass when it doesn't get any light.
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Freddyfruitba...
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PostPosted: 00:13 - 16 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
dydey90 wrote:
I havenít actually got the shed yet, just trying to prepare for it.
Going to have to do some digging, thereís grass in the area that needs to be removed first.

The grass will stop being grass when it doesn't get any light.

Exactly - just stand bricks/blocks on the grass, with the timber joists on top of them. Assuming you buy a shed with floor included - they are usually optional. But that's why it's definitely worthwhile IMHO specifying that - installation is that straightforward
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stephen_o
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PostPosted: 14:21 - 16 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Double Timber Bearers sitting on bricks at the back end because the ground slopes away - cost max £20. My shed sits on them fine and has done for 2 years now.

Edit forgot to add - The old shed sat on its floor only but with 2 bearers at the back where the ground falls away - thats the reason its floor rotted.
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Last edited by stephen_o on 16:07 - 16 Apr 2018; edited 1 time in total
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jnw010
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PostPosted: 14:32 - 16 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a paving slab under the bricks to spread the load a little, and chucked an extra sheet of plywood on the floor inside the shed followed by some old kitchen lino.

Nothing grows under the shed, did have little toad living there for a while though.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 12:16 - 01 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are keeping bikes in there, fit a flexible ground anchor. I.e. dig a hole under the shed, thread two short pieces of rebar through a length of 16mm+ grade 80 lifting chain and place in the hole, fill the hole with post crete. Make a hole in the base of the shed and thread the chain through - voila, flexible ground anchor to chain your bikes to.
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