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Ever seen a headlamp bulb go short circuit?

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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 09:45 - 07 Jun 2018    Post subject: Ever seen a headlamp bulb go short circuit? Reply with quote

A bit weird this....

I was pootling about on my improving year 2000 CG125 yesterday and I noticed my indicators were playing silly buggers. They were flashing at high speed and the silly little kick start only battery was flat. I stopped at the road side and fiddled about with the flasher unit which has been dodgy before until I resoldered a cracked joint in it where the pins join onto the electronicky board inside it. Anyway while I was fiddling with the motor running, I discovered that the problem was with the headlight. If I left it on main beam everything came good, but if I switched to dipped, the headlight went down to a tiny dim glow and the rest of the electrics were starved of volts. I rode it home and dismantled the headlight.

The problem turned out not to be some frayed wire, but the bulb itself. I think it is an S2 halogen type.

Normally I would test the resistance on my multimeter, but that went Kaput the other day. just ordered a new one from fleabay.

I suspect that if the headlamp had been supplied by a battery system and not a puny 35 watt generator, the bulb short would have blown open circuit, but the generator couldn't do that and has just been pumping it's all into a dead short and drained the already poor battery flat through the indicators and stop and tail.

I connected the bulb across a battery charger and while the main beam worked as it should the other one went off with a little flash and then went dead.

I didn't think bulbs failed in this mode usually, but maybe I've only seen it because of the funky cg125 direct lighting system.
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 13:00 - 07 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Happened to me on my MZ 250.

Standard Tungsten 40/45 bulb.

Started it up in the night for a ride, lights on, then i thought I would test both beams and realised the beams didn't change.

Opened it up to find the low beam prong had fused with the high beam prong, by somehow bending towards it.

Thought it was cool.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 13:01 - 07 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bulbs can fail short circuit. Thumbs Up
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wristjob
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PostPosted: 17:45 - 07 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

if your bulb is in working condition it will also test short.
thats how they work.
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Kris
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PostPosted: 17:56 - 07 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep had similar with a stop/tail bulb which was permanently on due to filaments touching.... which of course I found after dismantling the back end of the bike... Doh!
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 18:26 - 07 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for teh confirmation that this does happen. Ive just never seen it before.

Put an order into WEMOTO this morning and the new bulbs are on teh way. I've ordered two headlamp bulbs, a stop and tail and a spare indicator bulb.

I have a hankering to make the headlight LED. I know the headlights on the CG are AC and LEDs need a DC supply, but it is easy to make a rectifier out of a few diodes of suitable power rating. They cost pennies really and a nice 100uf capacitor would be needed too. I could knock up a 50 Watt rectifier for a very small number of doubloons...

I would only need 4 of these but they come in a pack of ten for £4.10


https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rectifier-schottky-diodes/7514843/

I have suitable capacitors lying about and the whole thing would easily fit into the space at the back of the headlight.

Circuit:

https://www.elprocus.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/21.jpg
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:53 - 07 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=4555313&highlight=#4555313
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 21:25 - 07 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not rare at all. I just never came across that before.

Cheers...
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 07 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

tony1951 wrote:
It's not rare at all. I just never came across that before.

Cheers...


I'd never come across before. It does explain why 240v bulbs have a fuse in them though....
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Islander
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PostPosted: 23:04 - 07 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
tony1951 wrote:
It's not rare at all. I just never came across that before.

Cheers...


I'd never come across before. It does explain why 240v bulbs have a fuse in them though....


And why incandescent bulbs occasionally trip a breaker when they fail. Thumbs Up
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WmY
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PostPosted: 23:38 - 07 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

(quotes munged):

I'd never come across before. It does explain why 240v bulbs have a fuse in them though....[/quote]

And why incandescent bulbs occasionally trip a breaker when they fail. Thumbs Up


I've never seen a 240V incandescent with a fuse, or short-circuited. They tend to draw large currents when the plasma generated as the filament breaks, and an arc is thus sustained which throws "modern" MCBs. Occasionally splashes of hot metal will melt themselves into the bulb's glass, like angle-grinder sparks.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 00:50 - 08 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

tony1951 wrote:
Thanks for teh confirmation that this does happen. Ive just never seen it before.

Put an order into WEMOTO this morning and the new bulbs are on teh way. I've ordered two headlamp bulbs, a stop and tail and a spare indicator bulb.

I have a hankering to make the headlight LED. I know the headlights on the CG are AC and LEDs need a DC supply, but it is easy to make a rectifier out of a few diodes of suitable power rating. They cost pennies really and a nice 100uf capacitor would be needed too. I could knock up a 50 Watt rectifier for a very small number of doubloons...

I would only need 4 of these but they come in a pack of ten for £4.10


https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rectifier-schottky-diodes/7514843/

I have suitable capacitors lying about and the whole thing would easily fit into the space at the back of the headlight.

Circuit:

https://www.elprocus.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/21.jpg



I reckon you'll need to regulate it as well as rectify it
and use a heat sink as well
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 09:04 - 08 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:

I reckon you'll need to regulate it as well as rectify it
and use a heat sink as well


Do you think so? The led headlight bulbs I've been looking at claim to operate between 9 and 18volts.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RTD-M11M-S2-35W-Motorcycle-High-Low-Beam-LED-Headlight-Built-in-Radiating-Fan-S2/282773567645?epid=18011453425&hash=item41d69e389d. Do you think the generator voltage would rise anywhere near 18 volts while the bulb was pulling 35 watts? As for heat these diodes I listed are specified for 50 watts. I'd think that if the generator voltage was rising with a 35 watt load the standard bulbs would blow anyway.

It would probably be sensible to lash the thing up and try it with the headlight open testing for overheating in the rectifier. If it got too warm, I could locate the diodes out in the air stream, or make a little air scoop and have them in moving air. If I do it, I'll keep your point in mind and test for over-heating of the rectifier. In the end, it would be a cheap experiment and it could pay off with more light and longer service life for the bulbs.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 08 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've doing similar rectumfrying and bodgineering on a wee mobylette recently

here for gory details
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=324407

and the voltage can easily go above 18V even on that puny little thing
so I'd suggest some testing before using your new leds on it

I half wave rectified and built a 6VDC reg/rec to run leds on it which work pretty well but as they use a fraction of the current bulbs do
you may need to dissipate some of unwanted powah Laughing
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:42 - 08 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is possible that an LED headlamp designed for POSITIVE EARTH systems would work with AC lighting.

I intend to do some experiments on this myself in due course. Could work out as an expensive experiment if it goes pop though because the bulbs are around £50 each. I will be using a 12v AC regulator on my AC side.

There is no need to make your own rectifier. You can buy one. Almost all bikes have a reg/rec fitted, most have have three input phases but will work fine with just one or two of them.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 08 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

WmY wrote:
(quotes munged):

I'd never come across before. It does explain why 240v bulbs have a fuse in them though....

And why incandescent bulbs occasionally trip a breaker when they fail. Thumbs Up


I've never seen a 240V incandescent with a fuse, or short-circuited. They tend to draw large currents when the plasma generated as the filament breaks, and an arc is thus sustained which throws "modern" MCBs. Occasionally splashes of hot metal will melt themselves into the bulb's glass, like angle-grinder sparks.


They are fused internally - usually in the stem of the bulb itself.

https://www.lamptech.co.uk/Documents/IN%20Introduction.htm

The filament can cause a temporary short circuit as it fails and can draw very high transient currents. This is why they're fused.

You wouldn't be able to detect a short even if the filament remained in a shorted condition (it's caused by the coiled coil collapsing and drastically reducing the impedance) because the fuse would have operated.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 08 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
WmY wrote:
(quotes munged):

I'd never come across before. It does explain why 240v bulbs have a fuse in them though....

And why incandescent bulbs occasionally trip a breaker when they fail. Thumbs Up


I've never seen a 240V incandescent with a fuse, or short-circuited. They tend to draw large currents when the plasma generated as the filament breaks, and an arc is thus sustained which throws "modern" MCBs. Occasionally splashes of hot metal will melt themselves into the bulb's glass, like angle-grinder sparks.


They are fused internally - usually in the stem of the bulb itself.

https://www.lamptech.co.uk/Documents/IN%20Introduction.htm

The filament can cause a temporary short circuit as it fails and can draw very high transient currents. This is why they're fused.

You wouldn't be able to detect a short even if the filament remained in a shorted condition (it's caused by the coiled coil collapsing and drastically reducing the impedance) because the fuse would have operated.


Thanks for that. I've argued with too many fuckwits recently and really couldn't be bothered to prove myself right.

I've had blown bulbs take out fuse wire.
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WmY
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 08 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:

(incandescent light bulbs) They are fused internally - usually in the stem of the bulb itself.

https://www.lamptech.co.uk/Documents/IN%20Introduction.htm

The filament can cause a temporary short circuit as it fails and can draw very high transient currents. This is why they're fused.

You wouldn't be able to detect a short even if the filament remained in a shorted condition (it's caused by the coiled coil collapsing and drastically reducing the impedance) because the fuse would have operated.


Yet they can still draw huge amounts of current when they fail! I've got some incandescents still (outside kahzi), so next time I'll look.

Mostly I am using LED filament bulbs, which are nice.
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 10:37 - 09 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

WmY wrote:


Mostly I am using LED filament bulbs, which are nice.


+1 on that. I moved last year and changed all the bulbs to LED. What a difference in both running costs and light quality. I HATE those compact fluorescent horror bulbs; horrible colour, slow dim start up and nothing like the life expectancy they promised - unless you are prepared to put up with a really dim light as they gradually dim with age.

All points noted about regulation of the supply if I go ahead with the LED headlight experiment. Great to get the benefit of other people's experience.

I have experimented with bicycle LED lights that work of generators. I run a six volt LED bulb in the headlight of my old Raleigh Superbe with exactly the simple circuit I showed earlier. It works well. FAR brighter than a six volt halogen of the proper sec for the 2 watt bicycle generator. I also fixed up a twelve volt LED on my daughter in laws old Raleigh Twenty shopper type bike. I used a simple voltage doubler circuit for that one to turn the six volt alternator output to work the twelve volt LED. The only downside of that set up is that it doesn't start at quite such a low speed as the 6 volt system would. It is really bright though once she is going at about 5mph. It's funny what you can do with a few diodes.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:03 - 09 Jun 2018    Post subject: bulbs Reply with quote

Normal bulbs are still used. the cops use the info of/in them all the time in crash investigations, maybe they will "interrogate" ecu's these days........?

The lads bike tended to blow the main fuse quite regularly........I noticed he tended to "attack" speed bumps, and always rode with the headlights on.

My bike, the same model, didn't blow main fuses at all, but I tended not to attack speed bumps........

Anyways, after consulting the wiring diagram and a cuppa, 2 and 2 made 5 !

The headlamp bulb in both bikes was a 410.

The filament support/connection wires in the bulbs, when the bulb is on, get hot. Add a speed bump and then they "bend".

They bend to such an extent that the internal "live " support connection wire touches the earth ( or vica versa I cant remember which now ) and hay presto, the fuse blows.

Since the bulbs where upgraded to the 65w 410 fitting type, this problem no longer happens, the wiring ( which is what the fuse protects remember ) is well able to take the increased load placed on it.

So can bulbs short circuit ?
yes.

They can even fail during an mot test after having been checked and checked and finally check half an hour before the test !

shit happens.
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Tamsin
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PostPosted: 21:07 - 10 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

RE the LED headlight on the CG125, it can be an absolute SOD to get working correctly, I don't know if you are on FB but "CG125 UK owners" on there (disclaimer: my group) has a guy called Ben Wilson who has done the conversion and is happy to talk about it
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 09:44 - 11 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tamsin wrote:
RE the LED headlight on the CG125, it can be an absolute SOD to get working correctly, I don't know if you are on FB but "CG125 UK owners" on there (disclaimer: my group) has a guy called Ben Wilson who has done the conversion and is happy to talk about it


Thanks for that thought and warning. It was only a thought I had and not a commitment. If its tricky, I'll likely steer clear. I'm thinking the problems may be to do with the way the beam focuses rather than just running the led with a rectified (and maybe regulated) supply. Granted - the voltage will drop off a tad when the thing is idling. I'm guessing there; I haven't measured it.

I don't engage with facebook. Sorry. They won't even let you look at pages, without sticking login screens on top every few seconds, unless you sell your soul and your data to them. I'm old enough to remember a TV series called The Prisoner - a spooky idea from the 1960s in which people were spied on, watched, recorded and controlled by a dictatorial spy machine. They all had a number not a name, and the main character played by Patrick McGoohan (Number Six) screaming at the microphones, 'I am not a number. I am a free man". It sums up Facebook very well for me. Others may think differently.... Smile

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nW-bFGzNMXw
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WmY
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PostPosted: 10:56 - 11 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

tony1951 wrote:
I don't engage with facebook. Sorry. They won't even let you look at pages, without sticking login screens on top every few seconds, unless you sell your soul and your data to them.


I have several Farceberk accounts, some forgotten about, which I use for convenience. I don't input any information unless it's incorrect information. The same goes for most online activities; if it's not legally necessary to give the correct information, either give none, or lie. My TV licence, for instance, has quite an odd name on it.
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