KSR Code 125 slow running

[kev1n]

Hi and thanks for letting me join.

I have a KSR Code 125 and am unable to get it to tick over at less than about 2500-3000 rpm. I have cleaned the carb and jets and checked for air leaks but if I turn the revs down it stalls.

There is a pipe goes into the carb (about 12mm diameter black rubber) but it does not seem to do anything and the bike runs the same with it attached or not, any idea?

Anything else I can check?

Also can it pass an MOT like this?

[jaffa90]

How many jets did you remove and clean out?
Have you a pic of the carb?

[kev1n]

All of them, sorry I did not get a photo. Bike runs the same before and after

[Jay2903]

that 12mm pipe, Does it go into the bottom of the carb ??

[Teflon-Mike]

Silly questions first.
Did you put the slide in the right way round?
Is it alinged properly?
Is it shutting all the way?
Did you perchance wind out the idle screw when cleaning?
Have you try setting the idle speed, by any chance by just turning the screw, not lifting slide with the twist grip first... so the screw has dented slide, not pushed it up.

Next silly question... did you use new gaskets? Or did you put gloopy crud on the faces or even over old gaskets?

Nest, silly question; why were you cleaning the carb? Had you, before diving into probably the most intricate device on the engine, eliminated all the far more obviouse little niggles, by doing full and proppa service, including adjusting tappet clerances, and making sure the exhaust wasn't blowing, or missing, or full of holes made by tin worm or noggins with oydeeuz about Ducati sounds?
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[jaffa90]

[kev1n]

The 12mm carb goes in just next to the air inlet, I have the tank of last night trying to see where the pipe goes.

Re the slide yes its in correctly as far as I can tell, im using the idle screw to try and adjust the speed down. Dont have a gasket set but the originals all look in good condition and yes I reassembled the hoses with a smeer of silicon and have checked them for meaks with some wd40 and they are well sealled.

Did not do a full service but cleaned and set the electrics and the exhaust is sound

Can any body comment on the MOT aspect as if its okay for an MOT with the high revs then it will be worth investing some more money in it to get it running better at the garage

[Teflon-Mike]

So basically what you are saying is you have no idea?
You THINK the slide is teh right way round.
You dont even have idle screw
You haven't done a service
You have reused old gaskets and glooped the feckers....
BUT you still want us to tell you "Sure MOT man will LOVE it, and give you the tiocket, whichg is all you really want.. despite, just about every top of the list numpty DIY crapmechanics mistake admitted to....
And you HOPE that by some bit of mystical voodoo and illogic that you can sort ot all out and get that ticket by doing 'something' with a bit of pipe you have found that dont quite look right....

Yeah... take it to your MOT man!!!!!

He could probably do with a good laugh, and or the business!!!!

If you dont want to hear what wny one here is saying, then maybe you will better believe the Man with the Clip~board.... if not... then all of us are pissing in the wind, aren't we?

High idle. happens when the slide is held high by impropperly fitted cable, and or slide, and or airleaks from reusing crappy gaskets and or gloopy shit that MELTS when fuel gets on it!

If you have no fucking idle screw HOW THE HELL do you expect tpo set a sensible idle?!?!

And if you cant do a simple, basic bit of routine servicing needed every couple of thousand miles, like checking tappets and changing oil, what the hell are you doing trying to tackle what would seem pretty major over haul operations?!?!?!?!?

IF you cant do the mechanics... and admissions so far say you cant; you either dont have the knowhow, the patience or the where withall, let alone tools and facilities..... give the job to someone who does.. and pay them for doing what you cant.... or buy bike that dont need it... and take that to them every couple of thousand miles to do the stuff thats beyond you.

OR... back up... think long and hard; get a Haynes manual, follow the instructions; starting with those for basic routine maintenance, to eliminate that as likely cause of hassle. Then use the fault tree for diagnosis to backtrack from any faults or symptoms that remain...

AFTER you have bought or made, nice new propper gaskets to seal the carb, and got a new chuffing idle screw, and made it as close to what it should be to start with, KNOWING which way round the effin carb slide should go!!!!!!!

and STOP rushing, trying to find a short cut to get an MOT and out on the road on the thing....where you will be on the road, with scania artics and myopic taxi drivers and audi enemas, on a bike, with faults you dont know about, cant fix from the saddle, let alone anywhere else, with an unhealthy dose of red mist, making you try and ride the thing probably beyond limits, even if not diminished by dire mechanics, and accident looking for a place to happen.

NOT a very goopd scenario whether you can get an MOT or not really.

Your call.

But I recommend PATIENCE a big healthy dose; a workshop manual, and reading it; and starting frrom the top, doing the basics, rather than rushing and short cutting, to get to road.

FFS... "I checked for leaks with WD4o it cant be them!"
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'