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| TheFlyingEngl... |
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TheFlyingEngl...
Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 05 Oct 2017
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| Stalk |
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Stalk
Brolly Dolly
Joined: 26 Dec 2005
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| stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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 Posted: 08:49 - 29 Jun 2018  Post subject: |
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Oh, another possability. My KLE did something similar. Hammer along the motorway, no bother, pull up the sliproad (which I tend to do on a closed throttle while I fuck with my gloves, visor etc) and by the time you got to the top, it had conked out and wouldn't restart.
That turned out to be very subtle corrosion (probably ethanol related) on the needle valves. As long as it was running, the float bowls were constantly filling and allowing fuel to run in. Once you backed off/slowed, the needle valve would seat itself, shut off the fuel and would stick there. I had to bash them with a stick with the tap on prime to get it running again.
Cured the problem by replacing the needle valves.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| TheFlyingEngl... |
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TheFlyingEngl...
Borekit Bruiser
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| Kawasaki Jimbo |
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Kawasaki Jimbo
World Chat Champion
Joined: 09 Oct 2015
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| TheFlyingEngl... |
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TheFlyingEngl...
Borekit Bruiser
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| Posted: 18:36 - 29 Jun 2018 Post subject: |
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| Kawasaki Jimbo wrote: | | TheFlyingEnglishman wrote: | the charging system seems good, no electrical faults just doesn't want to stay alive |
The same could have been said of the aforementioned R1. |
I found one electrical fault with the indicators, they weren't charging, found a fault with the main fuse, it was all rusted and was burning the 30 amp, replaced it, works fine, then after fitting a new pump the electrics wouldn't come on at all, found the main permanent live (white) from the 30 amp was badly made after stripping and looking at all the wires, it was cut before and wired with a smaller cable, re-fitted the right cable and cleaned up the wiring.
The bike has had 0 issues with electrics after, the bike turns on fine, its fine until you go out for a ride on it. As soon as you go out for a ride (3 minutes or more) you can pull over and the idle will suddenly drop and the bike will slowly turn if not just cut off) the electrics do not fail, you can easily try and turn it back on, if you turn it back on it happens to be at full throttle, the bike will then idle at full throttle and will either take ages to clear up or it will suddenly come back to life.
I do not believe it's electrical, it runs like it's running out of fuel. |
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| Kawasaki Jimbo |
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Kawasaki Jimbo
World Chat Champion
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| Posted: 19:23 - 29 Jun 2018 Post subject: |
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| TheFlyingEnglishman wrote: | I found one electrical fault with the indicators, they weren't charging, found a fault with the main fuse, it was all rusted and was burning the 30 amp, replaced it, works fine, then after fitting a new pump the electrics wouldn't come on at all, found the main permanent live (white) from the 30 amp was badly made after stripping and looking at all the wires, it was cut before and wired with a smaller cable, re-fitted the right cable and cleaned up the wiring.
The bike has had 0 issues with electrics after, the bike turns on fine, its fine until you go out for a ride on it. As soon as you go out for a ride (3 minutes or more) you can pull over and the idle will suddenly drop and the bike will slowly turn if not just cut off) the electrics do not fail, you can easily try and turn it back on, if you turn it back on it happens to be at full throttle, the bike will then idle at full throttle and will either take ages to clear up or it will suddenly come back to life.
I do not believe it's electrical, it runs like it's running out of fuel. |
| TheFlyingEnglishman wrote: | it smells rich |
| Stinkwheel wrote: | 90% of carburettion problems are electrical. |
So here's a theory based on the R1 experience. Your charging system has been trying to stuff amps down the dodgy wiring, enough to burn the main fuse (possibly the corroded fuse holder was even bypassing the fuse itself). Now you've replaced the fuse and wiring and it's all good, except the charging system (and it does more than just re-charge the battery) still has unseen damage.
Another thought, I'm not sure if you've mentioned the throttle position sensor (TPS). |
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| TheFlyingEngl... |
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TheFlyingEngl...
Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 05 Oct 2017
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| Posted: 20:44 - 29 Jun 2018 Post subject: |
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| Kawasaki Jimbo wrote: | | TheFlyingEnglishman wrote: | I found one electrical fault with the indicators, they weren't charging, found a fault with the main fuse, it was all rusted and was burning the 30 amp, replaced it, works fine, then after fitting a new pump the electrics wouldn't come on at all, found the main permanent live (white) from the 30 amp was badly made after stripping and looking at all the wires, it was cut before and wired with a smaller cable, re-fitted the right cable and cleaned up the wiring.
The bike has had 0 issues with electrics after, the bike turns on fine, its fine until you go out for a ride on it. As soon as you go out for a ride (3 minutes or more) you can pull over and the idle will suddenly drop and the bike will slowly turn if not just cut off) the electrics do not fail, you can easily try and turn it back on, if you turn it back on it happens to be at full throttle, the bike will then idle at full throttle and will either take ages to clear up or it will suddenly come back to life.
I do not believe it's electrical, it runs like it's running out of fuel. |
| TheFlyingEnglishman wrote: | it smells rich |
| Stinkwheel wrote: | 90% of carburettion problems are electrical. |
So here's a theory based on the R1 experience. Your charging system has been trying to stuff amps down the dodgy wiring, enough to burn the main fuse (possibly the corroded fuse holder was even bypassing the fuse itself). Now you've replaced the fuse and wiring and it's all good, except the charging system (and it does more than just re-charge the battery) still has unseen damage.
Another thought, I'm not sure if you've mentioned the throttle position sensor (TPS). |
The bike was fine before even with those issues. I've even tested the battery and the charging system and they've all come back fine, and it good working order even after a ride
The bike doesn't have a TPS. |
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| bypass2 |
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bypass2
Spanner Monkey
Joined: 12 Sep 2013
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| TheFlyingEngl... |
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TheFlyingEngl...
Borekit Bruiser
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| UncleFester |
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UncleFester
World Chat Champion
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| temeluchus |
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temeluchus
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| TheFlyingEngl... |
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TheFlyingEngl...
Borekit Bruiser
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| Posted: 21:01 - 05 Jul 2018 Post subject: |
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Okay so It was a rough day.
New carb boot rubbers.
New carb seals, all seals.
New fuel mixture springs, washers and o rings.
New fuel petcock.
Put foam on the airbox to squish the space gap to make flush seal.
The stock settings on the fuel mixture is 1 and a half turns, I set it to 2 turns.
I took the bike out with my brother behind, it idled amazingly, it sat still for ages as It warmed up and then it randomly turned off. Then I left it again and the idle dropped and slowly went down to 0 and turned off again.
Never the less I took the bike out, it acted like there was a choke stuck on (But I have a spring that pulls it closed) I took it out and there was no power open at 8k revs+, nothing really at all. Pulled over at the same spot and the bike turned off when I came to a stop.
Took it to a straight, gave it a good run acted like there was something holding it back. Took it home and noticed that the float bowl screws were pissing fuel out. (New seals mind).
The seals are fine, nothing wrong with them, they were sat well, put the fuel mixture back to 1 and a half turns and the bike still leaks fuel so going to have a look at it.
I did find one thing today was that the air filter element (The foam) was off, it made a huge mess in the airbox and clogged the carbs up, gave it a full clean before I went out on the bike today, cleaned the carbs out and put new seals in and replaced everything listed. The bike is still lean, the revs hang (Think the airbox needs more foam too).
The issue is the bike still has this issue, once it's warmed up it'll struggle and then turn off. When it turned off today I could turn it back on with full throttle, it would then idle, touched the choke and it would eventually fire up and rev out to the redline then it would be fine momentarily until I came to a stop again. |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 5 years, 296 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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