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CBR6 intermittent FI problem

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kramdra
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PostPosted: 22:19 - 20 Apr 2018    Post subject: CBR6 intermittent FI problem Reply with quote

Starting from cold, she struggles at 1000rpm for a few seconds before the ECU kicks the FI light on, jumps upto normal 3000rpm fast idle. Getting backfires when I roll off, but otherwise rides fine. After a couple miles she is warm, restarting a few times and everything is normal. Have done about 400 miles since.

Started after some work at weekend, I think that a connector might have been moved or water has got in somewhere or in the tank, as she got washed. Fresh fuel did not help, neither has the hot weather.


Ideas? I will try re-plugging the ecu and engine loom connectors, they have not been disturbed for a few years.
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fatjames
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PostPosted: 09:37 - 23 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

What work was done at the weekend?

Sounds quite normal TBH, mine will low idle for a moment before building up to high idle. I always assumed it was building oil pressure or something.
(mine is a 2004 CBR600f)
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 10:22 - 23 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

As above, what did you do to it?

When WD40 got in my CBR6F FI ECU, it wouldn't start, then ran like dogshit until it all dried out.

I take it it drops back down to a normal idle after the bike has warmed up?
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 11:00 - 23 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

FI warning light? If so what are the flash codes?
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'81 CG125, '97 FZS600 : '99 CBR600F4, '09 KTM RC8
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 21:36 - 20 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is still occuring about once a week. Most of the time only lasts 10 minutes and is ok after restarting hot engine. Seems more related to hot weather than anything else.

The work done previously was that I sprayed the forks - in place, swapped the front callipers, rebled, swapped front tire and a wash - and not washed since.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 12:40 - 21 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Backfires seem to indicate the fuelling issue is fixed and its time to restart the engine.

Can not remember how to get ithe das to give flash code.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 15:23 - 21 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Backfires seem to indicate the fuelling issue is fixed and its time to restart the engine.

Can not remember how to get ithe das to give flash code.



You need to jump the diagnostics connector under the seat, its a two pin female plug. From memory a green wire and a brown wire service it and its on the LHS not far from the ECU.

Turn the bike off, bridge connector with a paperclip or bit of wire, turn ignition back on. Read codes by counting flashes:


A long blink = 10
A short blink = 1

CODES:

0 - bank angle sensor, ECM, PGM-FI fuse
1 - MAP sensor
2 - MAP sensor vacuum hoses, or sensor itself
7 - ECT sensor poorly connected or open circuit
8 - TP sensor, TP senspr wiring
9 - IAT sensor connection, or open wire
10 - Baro sensor, or connection, or wiring
11 - Vehicle speed sensor, or connection or wiring
12 - #1 injector connection, or faulty injector
13 - #2 injectior connection or faulty injector
14 - #1 connection or open/shorted circuit
15 - #2 connection or open/shorted circuit
18 - Cam pulse sensor, connection or loose sensor
19 - Ignition pulse sensor, connection or loose sensor
20 - faulty E-PROM in ECM.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 16:07 - 24 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I seem to get 3 codes as there is a gap between them.

2, 9 and 11.

2 and 9 make sense, they were my suspicions anyway.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 15:56 - 25 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
I seem to get 3 codes as there is a gap between them.

2, 9 and 11.

2 and 9 make sense, they were my suspicions anyway.



Could be an old one?
I had an intermittent speed sensor fault on my bike. Flagged the code which showed up a while after I replaced the speed sensor.

IAT sensor is on top of the airbox, grey plug. VSS is a pig to get at, it'd just above the front sprocket, on top of the crank case. Google the replacement procedure, I wrote a guide ages ago. MAP sensor bottom left of airbox iirc.

Pop the tank and check the hoses/sensor connections.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 23:01 - 25 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Map is the one that has been dangling to the side of the airbox since the weakmounting hole snapped in 2012. Connectors are all good. Vacuum hoses do not appear to be leaking but are old, original and a massive pita to replace.

IAT and the inside of airbox had a light film of fork/crankcase breather oil. Cleaned off.

Briefly happened beforethe journey home. It does seem to be ambient temperature related.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 12:00 - 26 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hoses tend to crumble with age, even if good internally it still may be bunged with crud.

I'd measure the inner diameter and order some silicone bling.

The other stuff, cleaning including electrical connections. If that doesn't fix then ebay for second hand as I'll bet the new items are expensive.

The fuel economy and power will be suffering if it's fuelling for the wrong air temp.
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'81 CG125, '97 FZS600 : '99 CBR600F4, '09 KTM RC8
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 21:32 - 20 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

This did happen with a warm engine but not any more. I am starting to believe it may be the wax fast idle unit siezed, almost always 44c is the temp where I can restart and she is fine. If so, I have no idea how the ecu bumps the rpm up, controls injectors but there is no ecu controlled air valve on these..?

Fuel economy and power are better than ever, she has always liked summer, belive the thermostst is stuck.
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