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Royal Enfield Bullet 612cc project

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pepperami
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: 09:36 - 06 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very impressed.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:09 - 07 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pegs/stand update. SImple really, just needed some spacers. I copied the right one off my 350 bullet then had to make the LHS one to fit with the stand.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TRf_-M-iuexB_PX37jIEoFBz8XVoNc50ijSXByzr_GQNO31Nr2CpyHDZL2j6DApA128gdQGwqqFAQeFaO4F0kDPRDSK4HfbHSeQA9-biOTYsYfdwg_CpVy8zpAJ3p06Tr8rZkF3fug=w657-h876-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0sJLmEnE1niumKAAYcAfV6xmcZZM-4LiEufU7urwOx2FdiyiXKY08SU-XAXEcUESR4zVXSB46X_NByQjG0I51nrUw0cPktuF9Ifa7dA7CDidw4d96TeMFKKjrSbJoxThpIKw-L8o_A=w1168-h876-no

The choke cable was annoying the crap out of me. Cable adjuster right where I don't want it (topmost cable) blocking the hole in the nacelle. It's also entirely unecessary, there is an adjuster on the top of the carb.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EZsFf9MuxZ7Qzx9IVqE4nKBNogwxGijhfTKpH4FRX7iBo579BM215LYbKicY7JQpLFztR8DtkRe8nliVt2nawBoHlyMl-pWdevldxoMb4QkptezcqL2tFKCJlVtGX4xLPVkK3-UG_w=w1168-h876-no

So I made a new one with no adjuster and of a thinner grade cable, the stuff supplied would work a brake, never mind lift a choke slide.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KOkLs86EOSI3GujpaDKm1ly9VSNzeHS9hREWl7jdkBkdImA2PUNnVynkn9rGeVG2wmeut0K9v73co23uZCjN-KBNiiE7hWW7TIZyOWHkSFKXwAuiXC_X2_to-FAY-oc1WtYXcyIgWg=w1168-h876-no

My nipple soldering is improving.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JRfJHUOwl6ScK2TBs7YDcesmSQgqgdmAKDq0UT9boVF8pgsQWBZc7JPLoK-rp6PAfPZb1zq-dscE1LrmfiHyzwvXBZ17RkY98L2enoULlTlB1dZEWS2bWbRGYMIQ4KJDoaU9pLhvRA=w1168-h876-no

So. Electrics. I started by sawing off the forward facing metal "spout" on one side of the tea caddy and replacing it with a 40mm stuffing gland. Th eother spout faces down and inwards so shouldn't get any serious water in.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YRqr37wfIOqyTe8Kl4NGiBIXxtc9_WXcOLIO3Tv4jxQTQf6h2DxL0Uyu2mQrHM3BriYWdeCfdDwH7kmJzMQ8YtLZDQScIMgaBatj-mNa7A9xJm3rLbzPA97CyLu-ZplxD_FR8E1Bmw=w1168-h876-no

Automatic wire strippers really speed this job up. I'm using non insulated crimps so the correct crimping die is essential.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LPadKNiRRP0gUz_n4IF9tcuBRGYB3eXcUubKxXKcFX8IG9yZm58uheTuP_DvbV0Z9jHvfHP88GQqQv2hbBCD3-v3xc03UF0DngfUNUtnihgfubplh7iAaf_JSg-3hJ8bcGBi4_LGTA=w1168-h876-no

To prevent corrosion, I'll be applying this dielectric silicone grease to pretty much everything.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BZN_ahfABi6m4s_vLPCp6YvttW0PnsKdpxpuLG1icySuQFJXS8uTzAzFlkmjcqBh74opHmTsZAvSvb1QnGh3W-VeCThgje1G6HSr1-1OoOCigCBGYoYKjXboNTPjPRkHMBIlcNJQCw=w1168-h876-no

Here's what most of my connections will look like when complete. (ignore the ones inthe background, they were from my lash-up loom)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6l45Uufwd1QU1kjSMr9Znaw-f1VHoz_8O_PVhYrRJsKwM5iaX9HFZADnL82N2KHCaZJdN8R4LqyotjnetuiuloffKsFs0lWo3oU2iCV_6-MMXKFHHKxz0YQsDLv5VOCNn-gJkZoJOA=w1168-h876-no

Main earth point. I'm doing earths seperately to the rest of the loom. They will all loop to at least one earth point AND to one another, effectively making redundant connections.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8y-sGSaTbE6mIj0G-n9swGhriwu9hroJcCWcptpZh-sRrAeFrk-9bmRFdBKYdisejRJxDgavnKKRZMevonYdfu3Vyp4WfXv9UV5gePrzxEqDPm6EzTYymlVSNV_7yM4oGZ_EaY3m5A=w1168-h876-no

The big earth rings only have one crimp point so I've soldered them and aplied silicone insulation tube.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9crUts03Rc4yFRtfddEuzIkJWbaKooPUoCxVbFf7bfxU2F5g3C38uhkvgBP7BdXRZ7ZkUB29UTYWY-O68inOfywbVzA9CXX8XjshyIfs52_wUlM2UPklKKASG0ivRTrsFcwUQlz_sw=w1168-h876-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QHAP3onqHybOjhbUPwD8hNjU0Wjj_FqWays3pABmwhAs3gojcpNHyLBbkHQRONrkzgFUpdOSIElajcXnmCUnq65y0Mdh6cIPN_-Yk9O-ntvZExnKzmQYPHiBLX8CksJEEM6TW3dfaw=w1168-h876-no

The smaller ones are brass and have two crimps as normal.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6rajAJX3qJmUCnAZvu8zdt4-7sSRsfXCKG4XotDNOkDoa7P-UvSB-n1AKwzMfdgIcfo3KVoxHVBBMjE0kdWBn_DaLgkmqd9GeyMeYoi5czW5XwA0VihNA0SJzDQPA5MnEQPBluG5cw=w1168-h876-no

reg/rec needs to be out in the breeze.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GwcNrp-sLuEtBUDT09sFlS--kSk8iRr2EeMSoOJH11aiwMt2fnqApouPOllwLxgkAKg5p0XPu-JMyc1gx56IxmaGuWAZX8bQvxq1Wv2HiBx58GJ9t1aU1OJBHLGv1_-1VdEDLqyN5g=w1168-h876-no

I'm using multicore for the main loom. 8 core for the front loom, 5 core for the rear loom. As such, the wire colours are determined by what I get supplied. I did myself a list and have tried to carry the same colour through both looms (the white is unswitched live for the front one because it's the thickest wire and earth for the rear one for the same reason, they will carry most load).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/U1uBBhOmwQXwYTBwruE7Ihiv5Dnw1E-u5I2gTv09g7bvxwJymAixncJrq6jR-RJBUKgtp8kDJCwJrZwRnzVZwIhQO_u2o8uLQjClUz9j9xLTtCfyntFXqN4UZaws-Qge_WCvoiw5Hw=w1168-h876-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lv1HOfrA2pIDbHw-huhvRYwsid_AK2a7HqEEL7DSnTn57VU-E_3DsjJlpC1HGxYbmvDo-Wo_DNGEd4QwyMNifBPG2HoceFMhe9KXdiqS-9mKREha4cECqW-dPZ9l2daIMxrr3-j--w=w657-h876-no

Earths inside headlamp casquette, double bullet terminals connected to rings, the bottom ring loops back to the main frame earth effectively earthing the front end properly too.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TLCFE3DE64984rXhSTaYUiZq5zQez0CK4Zwa7NpTIjPjDx59zad9leihJv2TiGM112vgewWOl1BUzetWJb4BSdaNWNaOzrTdoYs44CNT9_uT-B9iPMmoHDyzsZdcdNXyfxlilM9U-w=w1168-h876-no

Oh, another type of cable joint. A butt splice crimp. Crimp then shrinkwrap. Here it's bringing three earths together. You can also see the electronic flasher relay which will be hidden inside the tea-caddy. There is a bit of wire with PVC tape on there. It's just holding the two wires together, there is nothing under it, it's the wires that will connect to the battery.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/muhq7eWi8ek2iQoaoCSjgy5Q2tjhEyvxjCWgtUy7teiM4x4J5y9UUzf0GjWmbj309Q4Lpa7n-jdBycoONYO4GCnYAzvwA8MYAjTHJBwi_eNWg4TTm7cfTcifLR8wKe13z995cSLlzw=w1168-h876-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Kxf1TNFo7rJHZ6Uv99TX0M7gZdUuoropBl1EQcVQw2Digch1qOsXfqoQvZQBB1UkncZXOboI3qXesTJj-NqgVMr6ULFw0t-IXhX4YPAiLr5jqhaCZyZAt8-Zl6gUWoPiZQOl5TS7eQ=w1168-h876-no

This is the lot. All the wiring for the dash lights, headlights, ignition, flashers and indicators in place.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dA5OtzVOtlKBFg0kiEhU3a2jDCFtN-VXQY7X6vZYGPH5F2IfldfTZ-SFEM_Wch6kMe670VVC3ZOHKdS2tIer3cSm-8jmPJ101MDglw7TfW6Iy1Kz8Gxv-Aeo-eXH3-NbNSl7wnng8Q=w1168-h876-no

The LED headlamp has a seperate electronics pack (to keep the bulb itself compact and cool).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Z3iAHWKJwxJFwCmqWnI4-ryTVS8AVmbZqL4IWhJluURxdEAOgSL8pPPT19_xx3qijviVkExfJPZ6TApOdsutVEonAO6_49i0bSOJK_u0RY0GVTi3hVu5ZMoGB6P5VFW9j-iE0yDxeA=w1168-h876-no

Plug 'n play.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SXPxYJEgHVuYfyg1uKubkHWNP9M9a31xVp-bkUv0VwlXeRGR8JUnwAYpMCvwjRr9opQK84sAn_iEZ9tXjIj2x6RgiRoavGxpVB4tu957d-DyV1SWp65eeV9g6Jq-8J9uGA7XMPwh1g=w1168-h876-no

Donk. headlight on.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jUYaDrNQyETjDNlSolpqFpDiYwnJNLGI_XQYOE8p-CkNd1rMDv7EJ4WmgTbGq3PF7f8op24fnc-sLAKPn2zGyMxQzQIruiWKEnxpzMVoQVulSgvKvGb9S454LL2cV1tHjpzrtgnrQw=w1168-h876-no

Some details. I didn't have enough thickness of wire to be clamped by the stuffing gland so i wound some loom tape round it for now. There's the alternator cable coming in, main loom going out and the orange wire is the live supply to the ignition coil (keeps the ignition seperate from the lighting).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dzjXt0rCDQ_EBvHA5sXUFO9W4ki20S2X9-b0zQWFUsA6com5Ga56C8x3XJi3-z_L24bXkKQdrSgj_gfrWHIAuDc2doM7oEA9zmJNQaersuUrNnDGaDEWP3prIAauYslI7eiTg2G-xQ=w1168-h876-no

Hydraulic brake light switch.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/W8wHZJkvxa0tHzlLMDJvxvM8lmCmjg_5zSn3D1p0RP-EcyrV74mXaBYXew3dXUxhpvllOVqUs8lQ11wLmGyVkEYb8If4NFsyoEfQkMqsHYewffiGUqdkcfDGqnjJC99yS8XPFX6Iwg=w1168-h876-no

This all worked first go with the exception of the position lamp which had unplugged itself.

A few cock-ups due to user error. I ordered blue sidelight bulbs by mistake (I read it a blue-white but they are blue), mis-ordered the speedo backlight size and the flashers turned out to be more oddball than I thought. As well as an offset bayonet, they also have a low profile globe so the LEDs I bought don't fit.

If anyone wants to buy 4, high-end BAU15S LED bulbs, let me know.

Still need to fit the rear sub-loom and lights but a quick measure shows the lighting drawing around 20W with the headlamp on full beam. Total output is 65W so I'm comfortably off for charging and my diddy battery should run the headlight for about 2 hours on a full charge anyway.

I'll save the "Blackpool Illuminations" pics for when I have the whole lot wired up.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 00:07 - 12 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm using a screw-together multi-pin connector and multicore cable to attach the rear sub-loom. It solders on. A bit of a fiddle using this size connector. SHould have gone for the next size up.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7h3GHoe5O5RU6qW9ErWUlxmPCS9usE7lMfDGpmGZ7t5VVewBSfnj76XnCWLID3JqN7G0oCgUwXlEtbDhUm0b90Gp7QcSCKzg2NCjTMTAd4qdD243evvW3SSeuqOKG_ogOiLZJENRbA=w1168-h876-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/j8f57-ia5ZqnGHsrtZtVqT847SSPSiv0lCxggB29qDwfQ0Y4TBJozojLM66GaQ1iWqH6VGMwBWmHSuywj0H-HUJVSG7FXqZ3eUTvwz75_7PzwaHnANuclNpIVcC5oboFR-6pLn2IXA=w1168-h876-no

With this, I'll be able to quickly remove the rear subframe by undoing this connector and loosening 4 nuts. At some point in the future I may want to be able to drop a different one on with a pillion seat or luggage racks.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ifj7ZrRAluRhjPq0A6Pdd856qIsqf2EODsHI3zhQy4AvjQQQ11zVkg8s6vVitIqYi5O7ksZ2E9FnVVWirq0fV-5fdlQjybcjTEzCKTfaGJgvdmXNFEPXajRb1USEh2Ir2n--U6amAw=w1168-h876-no

All the wires and the battery in place in the tea caddy. The brown and black will be for the rear brake switch.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9CO9cermtxXSjtbygWmfJnEh7SjckA5ARs0oE5sTqLXEKoQSlI-lW9vvhVy9vskctDREOeLi14u20mNtA4GiFFLNG4hn1KzyTpXQUlLZ_bjIHC2p0wChVtQOFVowQReRTYxHIScvHQ=w1168-h876-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FHjH62xwin8TX4FJHx-qWe9ymztbBGsLHj6ZClN8_ZolEvDPBqfBOe9TAE75tbPXNQIJgaBGugIN_MlMrDNCFKQq-TA-iJQK5IbPiVkK7n7ZoJe9zvvX3YGu2SvSZ5Pb4vgoRfsdng=w1168-h876-no

I wanted this style of lucas tail light. It's turned out to be more of a fiddle than I expected but I'm pleased with the result.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hqPG5dSeviNqTzPPwm6ZxogZFlWl91ukujzecWbrUD5WDKmswd7K55S1dia3pFOlClA_jD5CCL9ziWc82TMKcmv33e5CCR39P77U-POV0rNmSuS0WZQKY_LHS5tPPh9DpClFgXguMw=w1168-h876-no

I had to order in 2BA threaded screws just for the tail light.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FhzHT7r3GI6bdcdRj2DiQbClpfYrIymJ_a526mOCLulpT1Rb759YEPQ_nmZmplxTEBmw1VrATB5FllzfNiJqpeks3t3ajzqeOfG0P-iTscd0jLJW4r1iBi2l3kLGGZMvtovE0HxXNA=w1168-h876-no

Multicore cable should be very resistant to being damaged where it runs under the mudguard.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/u4WOX1ge4_SGmHSA4jRMc7GMKzl-fw3ZZea7qrT97I8-ZBdFDO36UctDUTXALye02I64C5qFb1QDzMcautnCYr34pcrtd2KHcCRmm7W3q66uNB3CACKKgtJoY5HASxO4e1niXswW5g=w1168-h876-no

As I said, purely aesthetic. Not really a proper enfield feature, you're more likely to find one of these on a BSA.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gXBpjLm08FfhWVmFy27nPdumZmMdMSkDHxleAxpg-WdzyWo6QMPbdmejM3iJd6NTKO-S7_oP58umu8MzW8leQruILFJ066E73Aig6ZUI_81ahol88iM6y5q7zqQ7SyFs29MWHfZUyA=w1168-h876-no

Daylight running light (no, really, it appears you get what you pay for with LEDs). Doesn't even make the ammeter needle move when you turn this on.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NkAjtQb5X0GnsO79kbJi-TbMYxrwUXq-cElgWaNqtKWD-dqcJX2yk7zkXIfsSrDCxtDYIz5T6gRcRBmFYn68ujhDRtAfA7szz6lASlFiTWbRdDvBOCAJzFnMyf3Nr9UT6ZlncJzR7g=w1168-h876-no

Sidelights.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fs0MaIl3YH3F50ylYYjSFB7DoufRBXJEk9SE-iAnwgSusHCWjiacq_tNr4livGDMt0P7InZeX2DEKtj7hjq-ieEeu9WE54FTThKTEjsLa2McnJSp70iX-AFhaWEoOF2sbGxUB1pkDg=w1168-h876-no

Headlight.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CyCeiYkJ7uX7GvKbA6_C8opbYiMEX_qEaoFA6yPbwENglcLJvmY7249mxapjkZvS6meM8B5HjeOG0kJdgERZqL8f-RIOwAnS69jW_-Kvkxi8U_ZmDc0W3INcKbuJinbtpwfCO2lM4g=w1168-h876-no

Turns out this speedo has a blue filter built into the light reflector ring. A little chavvy for my taste but ah well.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UKmcIs0GWueWIoPhpJebDTyLoFeLmdh1eG65m3efbnwVyEnyPKP5IJnXBEEZE96j9qpD2gofcYaAP7bMZo6f_TtssLifebq34BeqRakL5kanezDpMtHBPol7lhA0JnGN1JVzHXoaDA=w1168-h876-no

The ammeter however,is supposed to be blue. This is my high-beam tell-tale (I may need to point this out the the MOT tester).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wKgk9u0_7kqCh7kfy8mTDbb6s_STo1-uvIDzUJV30owDE4K0ZAtCQqG-mtvfp93NcLV39r7gYjEXEM3F-G2S21DRkKoMBxyzLfIg3jvsnXH21FO5Lp6G9gwlYZa6RyPsThMs8HbvmA=w1168-h876-no

I made a bent alloy bracket to take the flashers, it should double as a numberplate mount.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IcH-2rrYlMLjFV1KlyDeH-gSyLUf9jUOUBCHg9ZhIutu46smWF0hRIauxs1oX1tcFCF9FG0pHApbb_EqA68VPC05gWxI2eeVV8AdttvcWYGOFJXSorjGS-YuFHkq5GvjP-O1ZUpuLQ=w1168-h876-no

Unlike many LED sytstems I've seen, this makes a good differentiation between the tail and the brake light.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MekzQoDV1gehE4kCMyHpSqu47Cf2AdbJXjev_vYiX-mBEV3pEyUft2YAVx4oCSQbKH1T3GrIL-4YyeGlrRwC4KE0l8ro2w1Dvxt467LUg24adUrK0Eso2KZmPRmP9hwT7QXESu1gBw=w1168-h876-no

And that's it wired up with the exception of the rear brake switch. Still trying to find some low profile LEDs with offset pins for the flashers but it's not the end of the world if I use incandescents.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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sniff6
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 23 Apr 2010
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 20 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Done a lovely job on the bike and it should give you miles of happy biking . Thumbs Up
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BusterGonads
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 18 May 2018
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PostPosted: 09:12 - 23 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

This has been a heroic effort Stinkwheel. I've just read the whole thread last night and this morning, and I tip my hat to you. There's not a bodge in the whole thing and I wonder how you managed to keep going in the face of some of the problems that came up. I'm looking forward to seeing how this engine goes when you finally get to run it and ride with it. Best thread on bike restoration I've seen anywhere.

Thanks for sharing the progress.
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DJP
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 11 Dec 2011
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PostPosted: 11:08 - 31 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I admire your skills if not your subject matter.

This thread reminds me of the 750 Bonneville that I rebuilt a decade ago. It was all done properly with all of the sensible mods included. But the sheer horribleness of the basic engineering put me off of riding it and it was sold soon after completion.

The guts of your Enfield remind me of that bike, sadly not a pleasant recollection.

Well done, but rather you than me Sir!
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.Chris.
World Chat Champion



Joined: 09 Jun 2007
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PostPosted: 14:19 - 31 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I admire your skills if not your subject matter, etc, etc.


Agreed. This is a fascinating thread, and thanks to Stinkwheel for keeping it updated. However... seeing the crudity of the design and manufacturing has extinguished any desire I had to own an Enfield!
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1985 Kawasaki Z550F
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 31 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for the comments guys. I don't have much to update for now. I'm currently working on the front wheel and making a new calliper mount.

It's got a saddle on now. Springs on powdercoated frame.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8QMjWYinForf6OHvKVRCS8sOP5-v4nMHVVkGQznOJeTQ4hnTbfu-wMMYZCmlNoOE5gxyJ4yax7OAnwASirHi1utRH2T0UZVrPVKBa_kaJuVenfv6AtZbppBpFYJt1mQYYGuw9tnDaw=w616-h462-no

Old leather jacket.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/J0R1ZjTcSu06duXMyPl04LYBMHQEiFEc0Az_DFzrIbczrVnE4KJQJgBNBbZTGDov-htX27Y7MBnZ3Svka_Oypk3Ed45rQRHj9KzInX0hJQanloxnNZLQNyKg0KxZbnxAwPzDNSMJbA=w616-h462-no

Gel pad for my poor bottom.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rXuX5G4uyMPF0CotM2mdSI1NVIcgaNng8V7UeWOBIF7NrUv8MkSL4M9rRYlWrmFXYNEaTjT3s7C4SskNryAwsrYGDxOhUOIjtR7uhp_sC-hJlXKka8P2Fw-z2IA48JaMYxLiseT11w=w616-h462-no

Cover on and nobody would know.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xpFrnM1YRAwfjfM3k4BtEGQjtgmahVjO9bDkIhjY8ORjCs8_33PcyHt_tkp-SYnhqWqJZchUufnNhPKTDR-NI04xFRUpLlnqnelWtI8qHTN3JBU0jkQNgyJlMfK6e8mXl3W4qIoTng=w616-h462-no

Sticky out thread crying out for a pike nut.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/y7XcqiqjNdCk_e2gMLuFXY-kWT60O6XD5ln0TJuMgS7-KqWifer4n1OiUpDRWqMru4ya__oGHANxUI9FU-kvXXZ0k6sXGGqjNrNUkd8owOHvI6KEhoXOSHuitIKMLMDXIf89PHP8IQ=w616-h462-no

However, they make a BULLET nut!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AN14h1ni5CAO8cP9A-mAQG0bzs6ZY_fKqcMxXyH3GKVMdiOpHnaKhStkj2UbCtifVzwW2gm55_nCbPRBofKTM9whaO_gFIa685AxAzfIvvDBekgluk002fp6aip3zlZf9rX4KVmyIg=w616-h462-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Paddy.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 17:45 - 31 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems I didn't post my other reply.

With the mix of wires, you've done + white on one set and - white on the other. Assuming its because you and only you will ever ride this, just wondered why, not a great colour option on the low amount of cores?
____________________
Current ride : Suzuki GSXR1000 L0 - Suzuki SV650 track bike - Yamaha Majesty YP250
My biking history so far
Rogerborg wrote: Whole life care for a VTR full of quadraspazzed Darrryls and Shoniq'uas cost mad dollah.
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virus
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 31 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you not managed to take it for a spin on some private land yet?

Id have thought that would have been about 15 mins after the engine first started Laughing
____________________
own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 14:55 - 03 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
Seems I didn't post my other reply.

With the mix of wires, you've done + white on one set and - white on the other. Assuming its because you and only you will ever ride this, just wondered why, not a great colour option on the low amount of cores?


You don't get to choose the colours in the multicore, you get what you're given. Also, the multicore to the rear of the bike is pretty much fixed into place. It's not like you could pull two terminals apart then put them back together wrong. I've used black again at the other end so it's only really the one white wire that's oddball.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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struan80
Traffic Copper



Joined: 04 Nov 2014
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PostPosted: 02:57 - 08 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could use cable idents.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 23:37 - 14 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been ages since I managed to find time to work on the bike some more.

In fairness, it's nearly finished, a couple of jobs still to do though.

Blanked off the spare mirror stubs with dome head bolts.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sRcqZ0dBihewzTkKJx0eSyChjco5-Pf6Fay-6NguMg03Qw4vI0ky0CM42u6DT5ZPPXlGJtdQZ3iptaaJFmbBu-ZehdOFvw0q4L35KI6d5KA5T8KbNLSwoYGevlitqkCJKP6G5aK4Og=w1164-h873-no

Fitted the worlds longest brake lever. There's a finny little metal thingy that attaches this to the brake switch but it goes inside the toolbox. I'm leaving the fitting of painted parts until the end so I don't scratch them.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EcmISOIMvgUBvzNbQWVEOBBAEXT5a_4lssyTJtBnqBZ6vqOMZgwvoLcZiaE_8y3SGQ_vgS71fWROZopapkczwW3wcTuewpjpzBViB3l8Y8TNbfD855JSMs0y8rlvaFulKnEarXWX_A=w1164-h873-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NvG8hk2Ym_nIXvoyAGLD2DleUWskuQJ3C2iIDgkgVHn3OAkZFIohjxBcskKaQu-VCYyduhsiJPi0k9WbPeQoZo0H6n7_ijHi4hxCLZ94MoiKSEnfUsV3f6kHA7ovaz-DI82L2l9Jeg=w1164-h873-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F0QXME72_4va5R8N7Tb17SedZXyzEtPlkfbsJ_64E8dMPrnXcOrrQgafjL02nqNyqpA26Hx8iM_Ha8RHrqMO-fbI_1XeZ1LYg43Mb3wYCfMiPr2Wx6XY5igfhJwxItaU3PZ8mMgaQ=w1164-h873-no

Clutch pushrod. It fits right through the centre of the gearbox mainshaft. As standard, it is one long rod.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wrn2JqDBBFfyiNCDMUYkWTU1YRdQXXxzVavngvThNtf9013e8teWJuKPYe9bDAhZJY32nIE3dNkQutM2oPNmwzFOqPlkzUWkZ0p1cYtuqMV9TEtcZKSMLsXY__muOCDOIrHkBIuhpA=w1164-h873-no

They have a tendancy to buckle slightly in use, they also heat up and start binding on the inside of the shaft if you do a lot of stop-start riding. Part of the solution was to fit a ball bearing between the push rod and the "top hat" that disengages the clutch. This reduces metal-to-metal friction and lowers the surface area for heat transmission along the shaft. However, ceramic ball bearings are even less efficient at conducting heat.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4tDdiweeJzuraNNJCwnhy1yhGXwK0t_yK618hrLSQ2eCF-sUEhOk8W3P1YdyYA6kKipvy2yYhwvEjgnH6ZERlSgMOJYVLACzHUGHJFHD63qrreP4rlMYbE41MASl2ClpcDEXSS1jJg=w1164-h873-no

Fabricating a new clutch rod out of marginally thicker and higher grade steel also helps reduce both the buckling and the friction aspects. Piece of 1/4" EN8. Length is critically important here. If it's even a couple of mm out, the clutch will be impossible to adjust.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jn8OLpS7Ht0PEy04639m_kcmcZgmsoksGJEQ0CS5AZlp2hJ_D7OMgelEHQMvpDQFlqbYDi7VIJ4eJnwMjJ3pZL5tVN5rPzU0e4EttwJsKgjswOjGRY1ip2bzXPuzatJ004dy28k0Uw=w1164-h873-no

The ends of the rods bear either against one another or against a ball bearing. So the ends need hardening. EN8 is easy to harden. Heat, oil quench, temper then soak.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DOyCV1ooyjcmfR0kqDmqFyZlq2W4FbiXrFcUpeS4OOX14tDMP8uoKu5AyzAcPFqShjDq0k8AhbaiQLJSRHGmfkR7WevjL95MfwfiCM_3hCowxiwLyFw9wwR0TiqhQkvFMoaonYBxcQ=w1164-h873-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YhtcVEskJBBbiDNx8c-vYWD40pKlKdf03P842dblLPQcVDZCec6QEDZDUgjvZNWdRir8bGv9gJqnfLtsO8up29M67HSfPFGm6Xd9lgQNkxNpBEH6K9oOYPz04venOUP0_KMIXXIeEw=w655-h873-no

I also replaced the white plactic mudgard section with an original metal one.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e1d0zxQJw2uFqqCINCndLCY6fwrhMjVXrALCJGK_bEZ07yXwXopV342J5yStV4ZFP9a2VJ-wedT6VjrmiL4PHHVuAQEZiBW_gjp9LrajPREyjqru_1oO_Pwce8bT86Cu7FSvI96PaQ=w1164-h873-no

Next job, front brake. I've decided to just bite the bullet and fit fork lowers off a later model with purpose built calliper mounting lugs. Unfortunately, the mudguard mounts are different meaning I'll not be able to use the fork shrouds. A shame because I like them. There are however other practical over aesthetic benefits to this as you'll see soon.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/skqXXg61n_BuYzceXhzmv6dUxguQKw9q-Gi4qS9wuCVokxCI4wkinBb0aT2leWgMK8xU_iahtxeetPCIJ12yyKWuRz4zYOx_5Rqr8vnl6QLM0Wb2_4x_J1pBXPe0zgaMpDK27VnQwA=w655-h873-no

The shrouds are still required because they hold a piece of trim under the casquette. The later models had a "shorty" shroud. I just cut mine down. They are only a tenner anyway.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iw6OQb0TjhMwBEHV3XLyadehHNAyNJaNFb-A9hil8C-k0FP6qV8EUQU2MtBB_uadczWlajYXAIGmVTgu-3d0EqKmlpfjczCz-Gy7NgTxklXMrSq2oNEhlGxeg-BAZOfVT1KbqFFgtQ=w1164-h873-no

New fork leg showing beefed-up calliper brackets (the brackets on the other one are for holding the mudguard on)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XCZkIaRobS5vB_gaamYaMb0lLljzzTjzDbILKxrN-DGFcGgDypTaSSBYDovdD4hvTvaeQ4YcdF52g8wf3Vg8v8JrZZFHquYWPQ_EVkzDY1H270Ic0DNP7p-ycMJn4uNdPwfxeLFoVQ=w1164-h873-no

I helicoiled these holes from the get-go. Saves time later and they are easy to get at here.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zMyXvhvYpBUZkIuWTBVHMF0MLirbHXf9fkCaDZITnPqN5GCuRMqHHS2YRQT8HtUIomXYWUHUADEgHoMOaGlJ1DinyvZTMBWzxmNq1yOBc73qraR0uW_DbW8hRUfD2F8Lbw4w4AwzaA=w1164-h873-no

So gaiters instead of shrouds now.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LWbiu4eHE4RxEGDGtv3f5OrtpcO16QDx1K8oUexp37VCCbJnGQJHVnN1HUST3RiVXwHYQvLd5Pm3FyouwVFYC_JhQSp_qrH2X_GbCzuBubxfW5-NXmUF1-euvzfopO20aO8rXKi8CQ=w1164-h873-no

Disc brake fitted and system bled. The Brembo radial master cyclinder works well and was a piece of piss to bleed thanks to a top nipple on the cylinder. I'm going to rebuild the calliper with new seals but it's easier to get the old ones out with it pressurised. I've also cross-referenced some pad part numbers and I'll be able to get brembo pads to fit (same pads as a 2013 KLR650 of all things).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tCDA_OBYy62BouO1_MBOVOejIzn5EJtLueskdBoCW48225L7bWKXv3QuAixdCOMkpP9U-KmpAsGKEUO95Ug3PmyXRT3FSiIe5xqhHt7EGERKKvjx1pBAEQhdBJ0LyTmsCnM3Vih-mA=w655-h873-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/89GCvdmL6pTyOMvLvtojI_Jf5uf0ShFoykAKqL6_RtCNTjNuWzwJS21pd3P2wLsKXU76iwfKHL5B9SwJX__84ODnTF6V5VvT8XqsoCPKCzAiZ0ADsPRPA1XTNfNTIctAdxDY2HB_UA=w1164-h873-no

I ordered the wrong wheel spindle though. It was from India and the advert was a tad vague. This is off a later model and is about 1/2" too long. Again, not the end of the world. It was also only a tenner and I can use the spacers and nut with a UK supplied spindle.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xQwHg4kwC-AyTSm2BgP5FN5u-XwejsVxbM6rAqwz4LX27dmKBDK50zISxFoVS-LN3PsNvnYIjQPfaC03uIcFrpsvMSbL-cCPfJTfzetQ1SxuReMsN9lba7ttwE_wXPPKiV2WzXPnrw=w1164-h873-no

So. I need a way to attach the mudguard. The more conventianally located lugs mean I can fit an arched steel fork brace, like you find under the mudguard of most Japanese bikes. I spent a lot of time thinking about how to do this. So. Bending the steel to match a curve I made with a bit of wire.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CaQozeTptZhPzc2TvUcdwOCXe5vF1Cqn2dEI8yVAYlbBpT7cbtbz-p7RxxzNoBko0XovLHXxE_zLQexltJh5Okz4RsuvP3Um4Rume6LKpNLNOrcKycBCVoCpubJ20MHT7VaUhiNgBg=w1164-h873-no

This turned out to be damned near impossible to get right. Especially without an anvil. 3 feet of scrapped steel, a sit down and a cup of tea later and I realised it doesn't need to be a curve.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aRMPJivCeNYS0qbELNsN3fQ9MuNmF17O3Tz8GxdhW84JSqlncSoqitGUZJuwvH9VH5-YWpSZEmJfAmsz3X48kZiR3WbB5Tlyo9sXuXzdZ8Tst419Jj7fMmNHo9iFD2FBtbqo_Zf3Q=w1164-h873-no

Two of those and weld in a bit linking them and I have a fork brace.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vXe6gMD0IUmFhBFlCKTF2ilKL0s-7GOZ9btOVWb_4WQRg02gnU2tuCMoDPjajBetm-yKm9J5ffpDMRksi1GyvTIVnwqvzSgYGNXX9Wp4lT9VOGqBsePwWbA7VqptAwVRYbvMWDAX_A=w1164-h873-no

Perfect as a mudguard bracket too.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DctIk2mKkZOL6eihBAW0wdgoGGkgIWQtcVyvJCwxpX-wOomG7uEMWzrJvTWwSv6q-LICmuGOSFxGct3giWL4GxxmVuQSjzcB4CoZrporjHxGUoFNBlyPPmiF26psVUi0xDJz3x9ttA=w655-h873-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IwFCeP_Qc8Ve3Exuy3EkvnxrDmLqYQLHJ7RD1LMUai681qDkG-V2Baand5HCwwQ-OgAX5QUqTOQR6KPloLVoWybHjyjgSGW1pFARENQ2mLTtJG_b6--A9nbzuJWDuXLnJ2z_btYc_Q=w1164-h873-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DqPkEjHc4zNEZygww7tThn6wPsXbSUymBCXXLRFKwbVznOOCv-z5yVK4N4xT2i01wROoSwCEd9Nbx6VD0xs8Z1jWxb6MAOeKXd6KJeLsleDUPqmGd27DR0R_sbwMC2TNi-tEczWQAA=w1164-h873-no

I've ordered some zinc-plated button-head fasteners to attach this with properly.

There is (apparently) very little left to do before it's ready for the MOT. It wil be getting an new rear wheel. I have it but there's no tyre on it yet. The one that's on will do for the MOT.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 22:28 - 20 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

FFS!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZCtPMT57EfJiLhFyNVhkrgTMh8Bvifa4dUsOQI6ze_gTOZcfBru17mMCGcc9W4NYc2FJapOs173UxxUzeb4jkxsCQvXOS-0nTWfJxyij55AAdGzTNIijI-oNZkwPT4_jGRmOzgR9Hw=w1164-h873-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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