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Strengthening Garage Roof for Storage

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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 10:13 - 21 Aug 2018    Post subject: Strengthening Garage Roof for Storage Reply with quote

New build house. Single large garage 6 X 3M.

Photo attached.

What do I need to do to board the roof out and be able to walk around/ store stuff up there?

I'm not talking about loads of stuff, but assorted bike spares and fairings etc and I need to be able to wonder about to get to them.

Also need to make some kind of ladder (was thinking on runners) so I can access the different bits.

Thanks
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Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 10:16 - 21 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=101438
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CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 10:18 - 21 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would you really need walk about, the truss things look like a big problem for that idea.
I'd try to make something more like plywood open shelving to slide stuff in from a tall stepladder.
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 10:27 - 21 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

doggone wrote:
Would you really need walk about, the truss things look like a big problem for that idea.
I'd try to make something more like plywood open shelving to slide stuff in from a tall stepladder.


Its not the best photo. Remember it's 6m long!

There's a huge void in the middle where you've got no real truss in the way. Deffo room to walk about.
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CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 10:51 - 21 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think he means more like, will it ever take the weight.

what size are the roof trusses? Looking at them I would say you would have to just about completely rebuilt the roof to take any sort of weight.

But I'm a marine engineer, not a builder and if it isn't minimum 2" steel I beam it's too weak Laughing
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arry
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PostPosted: 11:30 - 21 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like a lightweight block wall that it ties into on the right hand side - that won't be a lot of good for strength. If I were doing it, I'd build a timber frame down to the ground tied into the wall either side. You'd lose a bit of clear width on your left hand side but the right hand side has the support pillar centrally anyway, so you'd be able to run your timbers down there without it affecting much.
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 11:56 - 21 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

arry wrote:
Looks like a lightweight block wall that it ties into on the right hand side - that won't be a lot of good for strength. If I were doing it, I'd build a timber frame down to the ground tied into the wall either side. You'd lose a bit of clear width on your left hand side but the right hand side has the support pillar centrally anyway, so you'd be able to run your timbers down there without it affecting much.


Ok, that might work as I was thinking of insulating the thermalite block wall anyway so can build a timber structure and the plaster board over the top.

The alternative I am thinking is to run some horizontal joists across underneath the timbers bolted into the walls to support the long thin beams. I could also double or treble up on the roof timber.

Do you think the beams would work? The wall on the left is the exterior wall of the house. Right is thermalite into next doors garage.
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CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 12:18 - 21 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are you thinking of actually storing up there that weighs that much,
Also I cant see the soft blocks holding a great deal anyway, so the bricks are the same as any roof,
I imagine the only area down the centre worth walking along will be a V shape ?
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 12:32 - 21 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

"The wall on the left is the exterior wall of the house. Right is thermalite into next doors garage"

It doesn't look like Thermalite or other aerated block, it looks more like medium density aggregate of some sort. If it's thermalite, it will have a smooth texture and you will be able to push a screwdriver into it easily. Anyway, whatever, you can install beams into it but you need to ensure it does not weaken the structure, and you need to tell your neighbour.

First step: Do you know a friendly builder who'd advise, "for a drink"?

I might be inclined to bolt a timber plate to the party wall, and hang joists on it under the existing, in old money 2" x 6" joists at 18" centres (across the garage!). Probably leave it as a "gallery" for ease of access.
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 12:56 - 21 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
"The wall on the left is the exterior wall of the house. Right is thermalite into next doors garage"

It doesn't look like Thermalite or other aerated block, it looks more like medium density aggregate of some sort. If it's thermalite, it will have a smooth texture and you will be able to push a screwdriver into it easily. Anyway, whatever, you can install beams into it but you need to ensure it does not weaken the structure, and you need to tell your neighbour.

First step: Do you know a friendly builder who'd advise, "for a drink"?

I might be inclined to bolt a timber plate to the party wall, and hang joists on it under the existing, in old money 2" x 6" joists at 18" centres (across the garage!). Probably leave it as a "gallery" for ease of access.


Sorry. Yes you are correct. It's breeze block type thing.

Your points are noted. There is a considerable area for storage although I don't have loads and loads to store up there. I'm just talking about bike fairings and a few boxes of bits for the bikes, scrubs for trackdays etc

There's a really nice space that you can comfortable stand up in between the truss of the roof bits and so I was looking to use this as access and the smaller areas under the eves as storage.

My preference would be to make it as least damaging/ intrusive on the existing structure as possible so I like the idea of building a timber frame on the right hand side and mounting the joists to that as I can insulate and plaster board over that as well to hide the timber frame.

On the left I could bolt a plate to support the other end of the joists.

Is it worth (if I can actually get some 6 x 2 long enough) doubling up on the roof beams and does what I've concluded sound reasonable?

Don't know a builder sadly.

I don't think the wall on the left is anything other than the exterior wall so I don't think there's much risk of doing any damage to it (in terms of weakening) as I assume it isn't load bearing.
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CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 13:30 - 21 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

0l0dom0l0 wrote:

Is it worth (if I can actually get some 6 x 2 long enough) doubling up on the roof beams


You will not find a 6m span suitable without other support halfway.

0l0dom0l0 wrote:

I like the idea of building a timber frame on the right hand side and mounting the joists to that.


Well, it would fit between the piers nicely, by the look. Why board it over?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:19 - 21 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

arry wrote:
Looks like a lightweight block wall that it ties into on the right hand side - that won't be a lot of good for strength. If I were doing it, I'd build a timber frame down to the ground tied into the wall either side. You'd lose a bit of clear width on your left hand side but the right hand side has the support pillar centrally anyway, so you'd be able to run your timbers down there without it affecting much.


/\ This.

I'd beef up the roof struts up then cut out the stuff in the middle to make a clear space.
You cannot remove the support. If you hack a bit out you have to make good somewhere else.
You could ask a builder for a quote. They know the rules for loading etc.. or they should.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 18:13 - 21 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd say there's little point in being able to walk up there and you'll be constantly banging your head. I just drape (and sometimes nail) lightweight sheet wood or thin fibreboard across the rafters, leaving gaps so I can climb up a step ladder, reach in and drag stuff out. What's up there is in long-term storage anyway. There's no really heavy stuff although in total it's a fair weight I suppose, but spread about a bit. It's not pretty but the haphazard gaps probably let air flow freely.
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skatefreak
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PostPosted: 09:38 - 22 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a new build garage with a roof that looks equally as flimsy although I've been up there many times and I'm 13 stone...
Its quite a ball ach actually getting up there to I've pulled some pallets apart and nailed the boards across the spans on wither side and just pop up on a ladder...

Cheap, strong, spreads the weight, hopefully adds a little rigidity (although whether it's beneficial from a structural perspective is questionable).

Easy enough to pop up and retrieve/deposit stuff, numerous bikes and half a bikes worth of spares, camping equipment etc. Would probably take an engine easily enough but getting it up/down may be tricky...
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J4mes
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PostPosted: 09:58 - 22 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

be aware of your NHBC warranty and house insurance should you fuck about cutting trusses and shit and the roof collapses.

I boarded all of mine in my last garage and just left regular access points so everything was within reach of my boat hook!

I seem to remember you're meant to get approval from building control for boarding your loft as the roof trusses might not be man enough for the weight. Rolling Eyes
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doggone
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PostPosted: 10:28 - 22 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

skatefreak wrote:
I have a new build garage with a roof that looks equally as flimsy


Must say I'm amazed how little timber they seem to think is Ok, it is no doubt carefully designed to be adequate, but the unsupported lengths of quite thin timber will be seriously dubious in say 50 years time when it has dried and cracked and EU approved preservatives have all vapourised.
Perhaps the design life is only 50 years and you're supposed to bulldoze it and build new in 2060
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MattEMulsion
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PostPosted: 12:17 - 22 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

From your picture I would just board the 1st, 3rd & 5th run of the trusses, leaving the 2nd & 4th run open. Then use a step ladder to access the space to each side of your steps and you won't really need to ever walk on the boards. As long as you are sensible about what you put up there you won't hurt anything. This is how my garage has been for about 20+ years.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 18:30 - 22 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never mind garages mate, if your surprised at that then you want to see the way they build new build houses now, and the quality of the timber used, and the distances between joists etc.

If I was considering a new build house, I'd definitely not want to see it until it's finished as if you ever saw the way that most house developers tack them together, you'd never go through with a purchase!
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MCN
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PostPosted: 03:18 - 23 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevo as b4 wrote:
Never mind garages mate, if your surprised at that then you want to see the way they build new build houses now, and the quality of the timber used, and the distances between joists etc.

If I was considering a new build house, I'd definitely not want to see it until it's finished as if you ever saw the way that most house developers tack them together, you'd never go through with a purchase!


My hoose has a trampoline in every room. Under the carpets. Smile
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