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dhdeano
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Joined: 11 Sep 2018
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PostPosted: 07:58 - 11 Sep 2018    Post subject: CD125 Benly Reply with quote

Hiya all, newbie to BCF!!!

I'm currently putting a barn find 1984 CD125 Benly back together, it was barn stored from 1997 to 2017 and although pretty solid, some bits are unusable/beyond fixing.
i've located several parts needed so far but the major part i'm struggling with is the front forks!!!! apparently my bike fixer mate informs me that my front forks are BEYOND!!!! i've searched for hours trying to source replacements and also used several sites that tell which other model uses those part numbers etc!!!!!! Arrghhhhhhhhhhh.....

Can any one please advise, will forks from another bike fit with out any modification please???

Any advice is gratefully appreciated.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 10:07 - 11 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

From memory, they are a conventional telescopic fork, with a metal shroud.

Show pictures, and give us a clue whether the whole fork is bludgered, or if its 'just' the chrome stanchion...

There's a fair few 'bits' in a fork (Here; see Arrow HOW2: Overhaul the front forks / Replace fork Seals

The forks 'may' be salvageable, depending on what's wrong with them, and they may not need every part to fix.

HOWEVER..... the critical bit is the chrome stanchion, and if that is 'gone' and rust is severe and pitted, then the tubes would have to be re-chromed... its possible, but its not the same sort of 'show' chrome they put on shower curtains, or chinese after-market mirrors, nor even the 'better' show-chrome they use on other decorative bits like handle-bars; its what's known as 'Hard-Chrome' and more, its 'ground' hard chrome, finished with a precision grinding tool, like an inside out two-stroke cylinder, for accuracy... it's an expensive process, and to re-chrome an old part, they first have to 'De-Chrome' it of old chrome, then blast and grind the old metal beneath to get a decent surface to add new metal too. Its an onorouse and expensive job, and many specialist hard-chromers dont like doing old manky rusty forks, not just because of the amount of work, but the amount of contamination the old bits put in thier chemical tanks.... so it's often an expensive job, really only ecconomical on a pretty valuable classic where new parts or remanufactured bits just aren't available... OTMH, last time I looked I think it was about £140, which might have been per-leg, so £300, probably half the value of a CD125 in good running order, 'just' to salvage the fork! Certainly wasn't viable for a 125 Super-Dream, where cheaper/easier to just buy a whole new bike to break for bits wanted, and the Super-dream uses more obscure stanchion diameter not used on other models, so a case of hunting down New-Old-Stock.

I 'think' that the 125 Benley, probably uses stanchions the same diameter, if not the same part number as other similar era Honda 125's like the CG, the CB100 and CM125, amongst others; how much may be directly interchangeable, would probably take a far bit of scouring CMSL micro-fish and comparing part numbers, and looking at sales specs to check stanchion diameters and length; BUT... almost certain, that even if the forks are bent from say a heavy front end SMIDSY... bits could be procured to rebuild and renovate them....

As any resto... its just a case of how hard you are prepared to look, how long you are prepared to look, and how much money you are prepared to chuck at the thing....

Given that the Benly has wire-spoke wheels, though, personally, that is where I would be starting, not with forks, not with painting petrol tanks, not with trying to make engine run or see if lights work!

Benly has steel rimmed wire spoke wheels; these rot from the inside of the wheel, state of chrome on the outside is no indication of how sound they may be; you need take tyre and inner tube off and have a really good look at the state of the rim, and then the spoke nipples and spokes themselves.

I am a 'little' paranoid on this, as I had a spoked wheel collapse on me in competition trials... I wasn't going too fast... just happened to be going up a quarry face at the time! It hurt! And I hate to imagine potential consequences of similar happening on the road, even at just 30mph, hitting a pot-hole in corporation tarmac!

If the wheel needs rebuilding, then new rims are around £30 each, spoke set possibly £40, though I seem to recall last chap that played with a 125 Benley found them an obscure length and more so, BUT, that's £90 a wheel just in new bits; add new bearings to the hubs, which if you are doing the job, you may as well check and get skimmed in the drum, if they will take it too.... and then add a pro-build on the wheel, as lacing wheels is a pretty skilled art, and I have never been much good at it, despite loads of practice that's always ended up in the bin! You WILL be lucky to get away with much less than £200 a wheel.... so those alone can account for over half the likely resale value of a tidy well restored Benly..... And you want to be sure they is good before you begin.... because if not... at best they will let the rest of the bike down, if done half decently, at worse, be an accident waiting to happen, even if blagged through an MOT with a bit of solvol and axle grease!

THEN I would ponder the brakes and the suspension and the forks, and all a long while before worrying about the engine.... (mind you I do have about five knocking around, and even a set of brand new barels in the shed!)

A-N-D... ultimately, what my project philosopy and objective was.

IF I wanted to keep it 'original', and money no-object concourse standard demanded; then it would be a case of identifying which bits were critical, and paying for a pro hard-chrome if needs be, or hunting out obscure New-Old-Stock, and paying whatever was asked.

If it had to be done on a more realistic budget, as the Super-Dreams, on a bike that's not so well apreciated or valued, IF new parts weren't easily obtainable, or affordable, be down to looking for better second hand bits, and probably even breaking a whole bike to get them.

If I 'just' wanted to make the thing functional and useable, then.... old fashioned get-me by bodge of cleaning them up as best as, buying in spare fork seals and expecting to have to replace them a few times until something else came allong would apply, and measuing up the head-stock diamter and length of alternatives, like CM or CG would come into action to substitute an alternative and 'available' front end on... drum vs disc brake mounts on foprk legs would likely be a consideration there, 'cos would need fork-sliders that matched the brake, with either caliper brackets for a disc or lugg for a drum.

As they say, theres many ways to skin a cat.... and THIS is the fun of a project-bike... finding many of the ways, and deciding which best suits your situation... hence the project philosophy as to how close to concourse you want to make it at the end of the day....

But still... photo's, and go look at wheels!
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dhdeano
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PostPosted: 10:57 - 11 Sep 2018    Post subject: CD125 Benly Reply with quote

Many thanks for the brief Shocked advice!!!!

Certainly a lot to think about. My bike fixer mate who has done few nut and bolt rebuilds in the past has agreed to assist me through my little project.
We discussed in great detail, over a good cup of tea, the options: 1) complete strip down and rebuild at a rough cost of £1500 as a minimum, 2) scavenge parts and get the bike up and running and back on the road.

I think were doing a mix of both!!!! the engine is on his worktop about to be stripped down as it was part seized, engine turning by hand 3/4 of a turn.
I'm trying to source items that need replacing or are missing. Once we have everything we will then decide the next plan. The front end is Ok apart from the fork stanchions which are rusted/pitted; cant find CD125/200 tubes so the next best option is the CM variant which should a straight swap, unless anyone knows any different.
Looks like the front and rear chrome mudguards and beyond repair so will need to locate replacements, fibre glass/plastic is an option but i would prefer to replace with chromed guards, again, would any other small bike parts fit??
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 11:25 - 11 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you looked at Dave Silver Spares?
I had a Honda Superdream and they had most stuff I needed.
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dhdeano
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PostPosted: 11:38 - 11 Sep 2018    Post subject: CD125 Benly Reply with quote

Hiya,
Yes I've checked David Silver and also Wemoto, they both have lots of parts but not what i'm in need off.
Trouble is the CD125 is rarer than the 200 version so trying to locate parts is a real headache.
A plea on FB found me a re-furbished petrol Tank, primed and ready for paint.

Its a matter of being in the right place at the right time for parts!!

I'm going to need to get the tank, two side panels, rear shock covers, front stanchion covers, headlight and bracket painted at some stage.

The trouble is i'm inpatient and want it all done now but i'm learning that its going to take a while.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 11:42 - 11 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

If motor is semi-stripped and dont turn over by hand... you got problems.

If the barrel is still 'on' pistons could 'just' be rusted in the cylinder bores, and a top end rebuild may be do-able; bareel/piston kit is about £120, and well worth the doing. New cam-chain, though begs the bottom end completely stripped; adds about £50 for the cam-chain, plus tempting to start replacing outer crank bearings.. which is not a great thing to do.... crank runs on three, outer crank bearings, plus a center bearing... change outers, but not center, mismatched wear can see the crank suffer more flex than on original part warn 'set'... you have been warned....

If barrel is 'off'.... only thing that would stop the crank turn is bluggered main or big end bearings.... Big ends run directly in the con-rod, and like the center main, to get at and replace them, begs the crank pressing apart, rebuilding with new bearings, and often new con-rods (big end 'hole' remember is the outer race of the big-end bearing), and then critically re-pressed back together, aligned and balenced...

This is NOT a particularly DIY-able job.... I have seen it done on old Brit-Bikes, AJS & Beezas and the like, but the old boys that did it, were well practiced, and setting the crank in V-Blocks, and checking trueness with three DTI's it was an art, and not a simple one, even on a single journal crank, let alone one with two throws and three bearings, more akin to a two-stroke twin. Its a bit of a dead art, few have the skill to do a crank well, these days, and they is NOT cheap.... as in "I'll have a look at it, but gonna be £300 plus"

Brand new chinky crank assemblies are available and cheaper, but you need check the cam-chain drive, many of them have the CB125TD-J's cast 'Hi-Vo' sprocket in the middle, not a roller sprocket... you'd have to swap out the whole cam mechanism with them.

So back to earlier advice; wheels would be top of my hit list; brakes, suspension and steering next, with the forks in the equation... engine would be last... they are pretty plentiful and not particularly expensive, either for parts, most of which have interchangeable equivilents in generic Chinky copy/derivative offerings... BUT if engine need crank-work, to ME that would say 'Scrap'... its NOT worth trying to fix.

The CD125, was a wonderful little thing... but it was over-weight and under-powered. The Single carb, soft cam motor only made 10BHP as stock, as little as the much cheaper and more common CB100N or the now more common CG....

As a resto project? the 125 Benley is 'special' because its a Benly, a mini tourer of the old skool; those deep valenced mudguards, heavy styling and thick seat, and that very very soft twin cylinder motor, that is ultra smooth compared to most 125's... BUT its not the easiest to tackle... that motor is much more involved than the singles, especially the push-rod singles, which are far better supported for bits thanks to so many chinky copies & derivatives.. so at the end of the day, its a tougher proposition to do, it will cost more to do, and at the end of it, you wont have anything that's particularly 'special' unless you do it conscientiously and to a fairly high standard... as a cheap scrub-up 'hack'? Well, a scabbly 125 Benly is just a scabby 125 benly, and you may as well chuck your time and money at making a scabby CG or Chinky CG copy, to get something that's still as scabby, probably more valuable, and just as functionally useful, and a dang site easier to do and to live with after..... see what I mean about the Project-Philosophy...... and why you need one?

Have you read thread +A Newbie's CD125 Benly Part Restoration Project, or Snowies Pup project thread, or even my own on the Corpral? That chap doing the CD125, had to very seriously revise his ideas and budget early on.... Pup got done almost no expense spared, and STILL hopes and aspirations had to get revised during the build.

Three-Four-Five.. times as much money, space and time as you first expect is NOT the exception, it is the norm, and the more optimistic and less realistic you are at the start, so the more inflated these factors become, and the less likely the project is ever likely to be completed, let alone fulfill expectations you may have for it when you start.... you have been warned!
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Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 12:09 - 11 Sep 2018    Post subject: Re: CD125 Benly Reply with quote

dhdeano wrote:
Hiya,
Yes I've checked David Silver and also Wemoto, they both have lots of parts but not what i'm in need off.
Trouble is the CD125 is rarer than the 200 version so trying to locate parts is a real headache.
A plea on FB found me a re-furbished petrol Tank, primed and ready for paint.

Its a matter of being in the right place at the right time for parts!!

I'm going to need to get the tank, two side panels, rear shock covers, front stanchion covers, headlight and bracket painted at some stage.

The trouble is i'm inpatient and want it all done now but i'm learning that its going to take a while.


I would suggest making the bike a runner with an MOT .
That way you can still use it if you choose to.
You’re more likely to keep an interest in the bike if it’s running, rather than it being a lump of expensive metal sitting there doing nothing.

I’ve made the mistake of having a bike (cm250t) sitting there doing nothing.
Now that bike is going to a new home without me ever getting to ride it on the road.
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dhdeano
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PostPosted: 12:34 - 11 Sep 2018    Post subject: CD125 Benly Reply with quote

Many thanks,

Apart from the front stanchions and a side panel i think i now have every thing to put it back together as a rolling chassis. then i can give the engine some loving.

The more research i do into the little bike the more i want to get it running and back on the road as they are scarce. Yes it may be a little bike, but if everyone took the attitude of it will never be worth much so scrap it or break for parts then there would be even less CD125 Benlys on the road which would be such a shame.

The bike cost me £180, i planed to spend about £500-£600 getting it complete and road worthy.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 14:27 - 11 Sep 2018    Post subject: Re: CD125 Benly Reply with quote

dhdeano wrote:
The bike cost me £180, i planed to spend about £500-£600 getting it complete and road worthy.


Three-Four-Five.... remember... time, space, money!

dhdeano wrote:
The more research i do into the little bike the more i want to get it running and back on the road as they are scarce.


They are scarse for a reason... and that reason was that they were far too expensive, far to complicated, and had way tooo little performance to justify either...

They were liked because of the weight and geometry that made them feel a lot more stable and substantial than other small-bore bikes.

They were liked because of the reletively unique on a 125 at the time, electric-start.... especially by ladies and schools

They were likes, because that little twin is so softly tuned and with so little torque or torque reaction, is incredibly trickle-able in slow-speed manouvers and town traffic.

They were liked, because with that heavy styling and big saddle, and the weight, they were, again 'reletively' for a tiddler, comfy.

BUT... these virtues were but small recompense for the cost and complexity... and you could have as much or more of any and everything in other bikes for as little money and hassle.

When UK Learners could ride a 250 on L-Plates, the 125' was just as expensive as the 185, so who would pick one?

When the UK got the 125 Learner-Laws, then there was reason to buy a 125 over a 185 or 200.... but they were still under-powered and over-weight; and if all you had to do was wobble round the block without killing any-one to get a licence? Then a 185 or 200 was still a better and usually cheaper option, if you still wanted something under-powered and over-weight, and not as much as you could afford on a full licence.

In almost a decade after the UK 125 Laws, if you wanted as much performance as you could get on an L-Plate, then there were many much quicker Learner-Legals around, usually two-stroke, they were usually also far more DIY freindly either to maintain, repair or tune. If you wanted cheap way to work wheels? Well, a CD125 just wasn't cheap; an MZ125 was cheap, it was also low maintenance, cockroach nuclear hard durable, lighter and faster....

The CD125 had almost nothing to commend it, other than very old fashioned, even for the time, 'almost' big-bike looks, and that electric start.

THIS is why they are rare! They were too heavy, too under-powered, too complicated and too expensive....

Quarter of a century on..... they are no better, and half their merit is gone with just about everything in class now boasting an electric start!

YES, they have 'Charm'..... but that's a peculiarly expensive commodity to buy one for, even less to chuck time, effort and money at 'restoring'.

For the perverse delight and satisfaction of restoring one to former glory, its your time, and your money... and some folk spend gazillions of hours and thousands of quid sitting on a muddy puddle bank in the pouring rein and vein hope of out-witting a creature with no brain, that they cant even eat, and the warden will make them throw back into the water at the end of the day! The ingenuity of man is to invent ever more incredible ways to waste time and money, if you have it, why not.... B-U-T... if you re going to do it.... be SURE you knbow what you are doing, and why.

There's no point in undertaking a restoration project because you fell for the bikes charm, to end up cutting corners and not revealing that charm to save pennies or effort... it will take much the same either way, and in no way be worth it when done, SO build your dream, dont turn it into a night-mare... and be realistic.

They are a loverly little bike.... they are just not a particularly fantastic one and they have always been far too expensive and far to difficult to deal with for what they are.....

Functionally a CG125 or Chinese copy or clone is faster, lighter, easier to get bits for, easier to work on... so for the functional 'worth' hoe much is this 'charm' worth to you in cold hard cash, blood, sweat and tears?

With a dead engine, and shot fork stanchions.... in my book it would likely be a lost cause before you even start.

They aren't so scarse that you couldn't find another in better shape that didn't need a resto, or stood a much better chance to be restored. So EVEN if you have to have a CD125 Benley, and not a CG125 or a TZR125 or any of the other far more viable candidates, is THIS CD125 a really viable place to be starting?

That's retorical BTW I dont need an answer.... and before you answer it... think long and hard..... and do NOT con yourself that having spent £180 on the donor you have, and gawd knows how much on getting a better petrol tank... that you 'have' to see it through 'cos of the money already spent! THAT is a very slippy slope of delusion...... and when you get to the project 'stoppa', which may be that engine's crank, or the fork-stansions, or the state of the rims inside the tyres.... how much will you have spent, by then, and be unwilling to 'write off' and how much more will you be prepare to 'then' chuck at the thing to maybe see it through and maybe get 'some' use out of it all for your blood, sweat, tears and money?

Its a LOT easier to chuck away £200 worth of scrap, when its still only cost you £200, than it is to chuck away that same scrap after spending another £500, that even iof done to concourse wont be worth half the money you spent to get it there, let alone the hours and the heartache, and the blooded knuckles.....

As said, IF I was determined to tackle a Benly; first up I would make sure that wheels were sound, and hubs and brakes; then I'd look at the suspension, and shock absorber shrouds would NOT be on my shopping list ahead of checking that the ruddy swing arm was not a rusty sieve, or the swing-arm bushes would come out! New swing arm bushes, and new after-market shocks would, to my sense of sensibilities be SLIGHTLY higher up the hit list than painting the petrol tank or the head-lamp brackets!

And as I did that evaluation, BEFORE getting all exited and buying bits I might not need, I would take it down to the frame, I would check ALL the major components and assemblies, and be sure that the bike, this bike, WAS a worth-while starting point.... like I said there are oh-so many bum-biters in there, you haven't even considered, let alone discovered, even less eliminated... like shot swing arm bushes or shot swing-arm, like rotten wiring, knackered wheel bearings, and rusty rims and spoke nipples..

Sorting rotten rims, alone, could cost half your entire project budget.... heck, PAINT, at £10 a can, plus primer, plus laquer, let alone decals and or badges for this thing... or having frame sblasted and powder coated... JUST the paint to do the tank..... using rattle cans, I can tell you straight off that to get a decent finish, you'll need at least one can of high-build, one of primer, one of colour coat, one of 2KLaquer... IF you are careful, you could get the side-panels too out of that, add a can of plastic primer.... there is £50 of your budget, and you haven't got the sand-paper, and you haven't got the badges and decals..... by the time you have, that £50 is likely £100... and that's on top of whatever you spent on the tank to start.

Now go put petrol in it.... oh dear.... its starving fuel at higher revs... better look at the tap... Oh, its full of silt.... get a new tap, clean out the tank.... where's the petrol gone! Oh dear! look at the mess of my nice new paint the leak or splash has made?!

SO, you sort the tank first, and from the inside, and do a POR15 treatment, stinting not on the cleaning at the start, with repeat rinces and swills, then the de-gunking fluid, them more swilling, and propper week long drying, before adding the etching agent... then more drying before adding the fuel-proof liner... and more time leaving that to cure before trying to put petrol in it, or paint the outside.....

That should do the trick... oh better get a new fuel tap... oh... what about the filler cap? Hmm... better get a new one of them too.... and now your fuel tank has cost you best part of half your project budget, and thats ALL you have, a prettily painted tank... should mean that the engine runs nice and reliably and you dont have the fuel starvation issues making you chase manky carburettor float needles and 'stuff'... B-U-T... still aint got all that charm, still taken weeks of work, and MIGHT mean you never get the thing finished 'cos you have run out of money......

Pah! piff and woffle! Its already primered! Just add a colour coat and go ride... bum-bum, fut, fit, stutter, conk! Oh look yes, the fuel tamp gauze is all clogged with rust and torn so some must have got down the pipes..... hours spent cleaning carb, more money on new hose and hose clamps and maybe an inline filter... more carb cleaning and faffing.. but hey it runz! Yes... badly... is this all the Charm you were hoping for?... and so you continue... kidding yourself that it 'only' needs, after all you have spent and done.... snagging out constant niggles and problems, spending ever more time and ever more money never getting that charm you hoped, let alone the use, whilst it never looks as great as you expected...... it is a road to ruin, financially, physically and nervousely.... it really IS....

And the only real inocculation to it.... is a hammer to the head! and NOT going there! If you must, deep pockets and patience are your only freinds, and a little savvy to do the stuff that might really matter 'first' and do it right, right at the start, and only have to do it 'once'... like making sure wheels are sound before buying new tyres; like making sure swing-arms solid and getting new swing-arm bushes before worrying about shock-absorber shrouds! and EXPECTING wires to be rotten, and connectors corroded, and for flasher units to fall apart in your fingers when you try to find out why the indicators aren't flashing, etc etc etc....

Look at the profile; I do about a project bike a year, and I have done four? I think 125 Super-Dreams in recent years... and there's another one or two sat part done on the stands! I AM deluded... these things make NO sense what-so ever, if ANY project bike ever makes much, BUT I do have plenty of experience of the bum-biters you are almost certain to find... as alluded to, things like the swing arm bushes, petrol taps, wheel rims, oval brake drums, rotton wires, self disintegrating flasher units, switches, and crankyt carbs....

STUFF the mudguards, they are the LEAST of your worries! They really are. Stuff the paint and the other pretty bits, they are the last things you really need worry about......

Go price up a pair of brake shoes for either end; new cables for brakes, throttle, clutch; check the state of the seat base; go check that swing arm; go look at the state of wires.....

HINT: takes me as long to sort the wiring on a project bike as it does the rest of it all together... and old crappy connector and improvised repairs with Hanfrauds crimpy connectors or non-stick petrol station insulation tape are the BAIN of it..... you get all else done, and when you get the engine working, IF you can, then you may get around to that, just before you expect to take it for an MOT... and that is really when the real work is just about to start, and its all niggly nothing to show for it hassle work, that takes forever, seems to drag and you wonder if it will ever 'work'....

And the more short-cuts and cheap-skates you try and take along the way, let alone bank on to make it affordable.... the more hassle and less progress you are likely to have, the less likely it is to ever actually get an MOT and whatever 'charm' the thing might have elicited when you decided to buy it WILL likely be merely illusary by the time you are done... despite the protests you are likely to make that it was OH so worth it, and you couldn't have bought a bike as good..... hmmmm...

THAT CRANK and THOSE FORK STANCHIONS... are already identified as needing attension, possibly very very expensive attension... and there are plenty of other bum-biters in this bike you haven't even looked at, let alone eliminated, and even those two you have... you have just stuck on the shelf and hoped will go away whilst you play with pretty bits!

Go look at the big picture... is THIS bike really a good target to get on the road? IS it do-able? Is it even remotely viable? Let alone ecconomical

STOP looking at the shiney bits imagining how much shinier they could be.... the things dead metal... stop worrying whether the old girl could do with a manicure and what colour nail varnish would best suit... go crack out the ESG monitor and heart padles, she MAY already be dead!
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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dhdeano
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 11 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

were having a look over the bike this afternoon and will assess its overall condition.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 17:45 - 11 Sep 2018    Post subject: Re: CD125 Benly Reply with quote

dhdeano wrote:
Many thanks,

The bike cost me £180, i planed to spend about £500-£600 getting it complete and road worthy.


It’s a 125, so what! If anyone says something negative, tell them to “f*ck off!”
Nothing wrong with a tiddler Thumbs Up

Let’s say just under a £ grand with a MOT & Tax for a little classic bike on the road, that can’t be bad Thumbs Up
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dhdeano
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PostPosted: 18:25 - 11 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the advice.

We discussed the bike in great detail and weighed up the options and i'm afraid, just to finish gathering parts required to get it complete will cost another £200/300 that's assuming that the engine is an easy fix.

The bike will now be completely stripped and the parts sold separately, funds raised will then be used to purchase an easier project. Braking the bike and selling for parts should raise £200-£300 at least. The engine will be stripped down and rebuilt so i can then sell it as a working engine worth around the £150-£200 mark.

It hurts to break the bike down but to sell it as it is as a non runner is not financially viable. At least the parts can help others to keep their bikes on the road.
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dhdeano
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 11 Sep 2018
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PostPosted: 16:09 - 17 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

will any other 125cc engines slot straight in to the CD frame??
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 16:58 - 17 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

dhdeano wrote:
will any other 125cc engines slot straight in to the CD frame??

Bolt-For-Bolt? Yes.
The original CB125S and SL125 singles, are the common ancester of the CB125, CM125 & CD125 twins, as well as the CB100, XL100, CB125RS, XL125, CLS125 and the immortal CG125 and all the derivatives.. you can probably add a few of the big-bore engiones to the list like the CD185/200 engine, the CB'two-firt' lump, etc etc etc.

They all share a common bolt pattern to attatch to the frame, and will swap 'bolt-for-bolt'....

There's a few more and more significant differences in the wiring for them, particularly the ignition, before looking at 6v vs 12v or points vs CDi....

Question really though is 'Why'.... and is the frame worth putting another engine into? And even if it is, where you going to get it, most will come with the frame they were intended for as cheaply as they will engine only....

Your pics dont seem to show the rear swing arm... I would have question marks over that, as well as those forks, before much else, and if those couldn't be sorted or sorted ecconomically, then what engine wont matter much.

If they can be sorted? Well, the 'feature' that makes a Benly a Benly is that engine..... swaping that out for a single is rather chucking out the baby with the bath-water, and heading down a road of building a hot-rod-special that's neither nor, and certianly not a 'charming' 125 Benly...

So where's this at? Do I presume that pokings of that engine have proved it to be a BIT beyond hope? And that flogging off the piece-parts wouldn't really cover your spend so far?
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