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Street triple charging issue

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mkjackary
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PostPosted: 12:12 - 18 Sep 2018    Post subject: Street triple charging issue Reply with quote

Update: not fuel related, gone at it with a multi meter, battery is okay, got a new one to be safe but it isn't the main issue I don't think, it holds charge, goes down when ignition is on, goes up to 14v when engine is running, (so is charging) however after 1-2 mins or so it immediately drops to 12v as starts falling. So the battery charges when the bike is cold but only for a while then stops 🤔. I have some more diagnosing to do but that's enough for the night.


Just pulled into work, and about 100m away from the carpark it starts to have that delayed throttle response you get when you are out of fuel, before that for a minute or two the exhaust had been spluttering a bit more frequently than normal.

Go another 20m in traffic and the bike really struggles then cuts out, fuel light came on just before that, walked it to the parking space, nothing obvious outside visually, but put the key in and after a few seconds the fuel light comes on, but it won't start, filled the tank up 18 miles ago, and it is still full, so no leaks or anything.

Worst bit is I'm stranded *at* work.

Any ideas what the problem is, is it an easy fix or is it some electronic shit I'll have to take it to a mechanic for?


Last edited by mkjackary on 21:02 - 23 Sep 2018; edited 1 time in total
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Confusion
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PostPosted: 12:54 - 18 Sep 2018    Post subject: Re: Street triple fuel issue? Broke down and stopped with fu Reply with quote

mkjackary wrote:
.... won't start, filled the tank up 18 miles ago, and it is still full, so no leaks or anything.


Diesel?
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doggone
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PostPosted: 13:10 - 18 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

It does almost sounds like the fuel put in might have been mucky.
I'd suspect fuel filter blocked but no idea where it is on your bike.
Need to see if fuel is getting to carbs somehow.
Or could be a failing fuel pump.
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 13:17 - 18 Sep 2018    Post subject: Re: Street triple fuel issue? Broke down and stopped with fu Reply with quote

Confusion wrote:
Diesel?

It was at this point, Jack realised, he fkked up.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 14:42 - 18 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

doggone wrote:
It does almost sounds like the fuel put in might have been mucky.
I'd suspect fuel filter blocked but no idea where it is on your bike.
Need to see if fuel is getting to carbs somehow.
Or could be a failing fuel pump.


Tut Tut

Striples are EFI. Fuel light on is not a diesel detection warning.

The dash can go mentalist with incorrect power supplied.
Sounds electrical. Battery, earths, regrec, stator in that order would be my order of checking.
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 18:41 - 18 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the fuel tank had been lifted recently, it would be worth checking the breather pipes are not snagged and the fuel sensor is still plugged in.


Fuel light on, battery, earths, reg rec as mentioned.
In addition, check the wires going into the ignition barrel. The protective cover that wraps round the wires is short and seems to wiggle loose, causing the ignition wires to rub against the plastic edge of the barrel and it cuts through them. They then short out on each other.
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mkjackary
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PostPosted: 23:56 - 18 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just got back after work and had the bike recovered, I wish it was as simple as diesel but I have the receipt and it says Tesco's momentum so it can't have been that,

Got back to the bike and it started, no spluttering, then phone rang so turned it off, after phone call went to turn it on and it wouldn't start again, then noticed dash were being funny, so flashed full beam and noticed the dash dimmed with the flashing so I have a dead battery,

Now I just have to figure out if that was the cause or just a symptom 🤔
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 00:07 - 19 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check that nicely boiled regulator. Bet it's started to eat itself and you are running low on battery, it's going to stop charging, melt wires and kill the stator.

Fix asap Thumbs Up
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 10:01 - 19 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
Check that nicely boiled regulator. Bet it's started to eat itself and you are running low on battery, it's going to stop charging, melt wires and kill the stator.

Fix asap Thumbs Up



IIRC there was a recall for regrec on some striples, ring Triumph and check if yours has been done.
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mkjackary
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PostPosted: 21:03 - 23 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

not fuel related, gone at it with a multi meter, battery is okay, got a new one to be safe but it isn't the main issue I don't think, it holds charge, goes down when ignition is on, goes up to 14v when engine is running, (so is charging) however after 1-2 mins or so it immediately drops to 12v as starts falling. So the battery charges when the bike is cold but only for a while then stops 🤔. I have some more diagnosing to do but that's enough for the night.

Any ideas as to what it may be?
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 21:11 - 23 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stator may be shorting out to ground when it gets warmed up if the insulation is breaking down. Check for continuity across phases and to ground both before warmed up and after. Obviously check output on all three phases while you're there.

If that checks out, your R/R is fucked.

I wouldn't run a new battery if you have a problem in the charging circuit, not till you've diagnosed and fixed it. Stator and/or R/R will happily assassinate a fresh battery in short order.
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mkjackary
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PostPosted: 12:59 - 26 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

ADSrox0r wrote:
Stator may be shorting out to ground when it gets warmed up if the insulation is breaking down. Check for continuity across phases and to ground both before warmed up and after. Obviously check output on all three phases while you're there.

If that checks out, your R/R is fucked.

I wouldn't run a new battery if you have a problem in the charging circuit, not till you've diagnosed and fixed it. Stator and/or R/R will happily assassinate a fresh battery in short order.


Checked all of the above, alternator has same resistance between all three terminals, no shorting to ground hot or cold.

So likely the r/r but not exactly sure hot to test it, and the fact it just stops charging throws me off, usually r/r faults cause a high voltage, not a lack of charging right?

Don't wanna give up and send it to a mechanic but thats looking more and more appealing as time goes on
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P.
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PostPosted: 13:12 - 26 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

mkjackary wrote:
usually r/r faults cause a high voltage, not a lack of charging right?


Sometimes.

Check the connector block for any corrosion. Also, a common mod is to move it away from where it currently is and bolting it under the battery tray to get solid flow.
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mkjackary
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PostPosted: 16:34 - 26 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

So checked the regulator rectifier and there is resistance going one way then switch the terminals round and no resistance showing so diodes are working, that's to the positive side, checked the same with the negative side and no resistance either way and it should show some resistance when the meter leads are the opposite way round but I got nothing so that tells me the r/r is fucked.

Spoke to a couple triumph dealers and none see any outstanding recall on my motorcycle so I'm just going to have to buy a new one and replace it myself, any idea what is a good one to buy, they range from £20 to £208 plus vat 🤦‍♂️

Also thanks for everyone's help, much appreciated!
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 19:27 - 26 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mosfet is the go to brand I have heard.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 19:48 - 26 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shed loads of info here: https://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html
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rpsmith79
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PostPosted: 07:34 - 27 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
Mosfet is the go to brand I have heard.


MOSFET is not a brand, its the type of Transistors used to manufacture the Reg/Rec

But yes, try to find a MOSFET one as these types are far less prone to failing in the future
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 10:31 - 27 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

rpsmith79 wrote:
Polarbear wrote:
Mosfet is the go to brand I have heard.


MOSFET is not a brand, its the type of Transistors used to manufacture the Reg/Rec

But yes, try to find a MOSFET one as these types are far less prone to failing in the future


Ah, you learn something new everyday. Thumbs Up
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watto1
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PostPosted: 11:06 - 27 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try this worked for me
https://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 27 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

mkjackary wrote:


Checked all of the above, alternator has same resistance between all three terminals, no shorting to ground hot or cold.



Just to clarify; you've tested resistance but did you also bell out for continuity? (or lack thereof importantly)

If it's a diode R/R then just rip it out and 'fet and forget. And no, you can't test an R/R in any useful manner, it's process of elimination till your finger points at the culprit.
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ART-ADS
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PostPosted: 16:37 - 28 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

regulator/rectifier
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