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59 Plate Deauville

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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 25 Aug 2018    Post subject: 59 Plate Deauville Reply with quote

Suddenly occured to me after posting lots about this bike in other threads that it should have its own one.

Bike is a 2009 NT700 VA8 Deauville bought for Lozzy to use on Motorways rather than around town.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/img-20180604-wa0002_1535226444233.jpeg

I paid £1700 for the bike which is about £1300 under the usual price but it has 60k+ on the clocks and for the last 30K has been used by one of my riders as a blood bike so it needs work.

1st job. the centre stand was seized solid. This meant the exhaust had to come off for the pin to be punched out. Easy job just a lot of work but no parts needed.

2nd job. Heat shield on the exhaust had seized bolts. Removed these with the help of a welder.

3rd job. Replace the headraces. Relatively easy job once the bike had a ratchet strap in place holding the rear down.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=101326

As I have a head race press the job is pretty easy just takes a bit of time.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=101325

After reassembly I discovered the front wheel bearings were on the way out so another thing to add to the list of jobs.

4th job. One of the fork seals was blown so replaced that along with the bushes.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=101327

5th job. Rear shock had a corroded and worn out bottom bearing so this needed removing and replacing. I also wanted to fit a HyperPro lowering block so this was the perfect time. Unfortunately the rear shock bottom bolt was seized into the swingarm so this required the swingarm being removed but the swingarm bolt was also seized.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=101360

This was seperated by a man in a shed and another man in a shed, Alex at Traxden Motorcycles fitted the new bottom HyperPro block and new bearing and seals

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20180817_174006_resized.jpg

Slowly getting it reassembled as time permits

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20180824_161938_resized.jpg

New rear tyre fitted

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20180825_203738_resized.jpg


Last edited by sickpup on 13:15 - 14 Mar 2019; edited 1 time in total
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Oldie
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 05 Dec 2010
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 25 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work.

Whilst you're at it, why not replace the front plug cap (the most likely to fail). It's the only issue that I ever had with either of my 700's. I'll send you one if you want.
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 22:09 - 25 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oldie wrote:
Nice work.

Whilst you're at it, why not replace the front plug cap (the most likely to fail). It's the only issue that I ever had with either of my 700's. I'll send you one if you want.


That would be very kind of you. Not had a problem with them on my 650 or my 700.

Quick cost breakdown.

Headraces £17.05
Top box lock and keys £9.89
Oil filter £5.99
Oil £20
Air filter £17.99
Spark Plugs £20.63
Spare Key £12.00
HISS programming kit £25.00
Tucano Urbano R321N muffs £23.51
Front wheel bearings + seals £12.95
Fork Seals £16.99
Bottom bush £8.75
Top bush £8.75
Rubber well nuts £7.30
Flanged button head allen bolts £4.00
HyperPro lowering kit £64.95
Pair of Avom Storm 3D tyres £136
Genuine shock bearing, seals and bushes £50
Fork Gaitors £15.00
Fork oil £10.00
So cost so far £352.11

Man in key shop to cut key £4.00
Man in shed to remove lower shock Bolt £20
Man in other shed to fit Lowering block, bearing and seals £20

So giving us a running total of £396.11.
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Shaft
World Chat Champion



Joined: 27 Dec 2010
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PostPosted: 22:20 - 25 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice to see something on one of these, it's probably the only thing I would consider replacing my SW with.

I've still got to do my head bearings, which is apparently a bitch of job because the bottom race is extremely difficult to get out - is that the tool I need to acquire?

Also, is the 700 so significantly better than the 650, that I should hold out for one?
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 22:42 - 25 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shaft wrote:
Nice to see something on one of these, it's probably the only thing I would consider replacing my SW with.

I've still got to do my head bearings, which is apparently a bitch of job because the bottom race is extremely difficult to get out - is that the tool I need to acquire?

Also, is the 700 so significantly better than the 650, that I should hold out for one?


The 700 does seem to give better MPG on Motorways, can easily achieve 18mpl according to the inbuilt meter but around town both only give 40-50mpg.
I've only gone for a second 700 as the coolant pipe between cylinders failed on my 650 and I don't have time at the moment to rebuild it and living within the ULEZ I needed a newer bike anyway. My 650 was very comfortable and not quite as civilised as the 700 but either can be very good bikes. Think I will keep the 650 and move it to Wales and rebuild it out there at my leisure.

There are a few cheap 700's knocking around now, I've seen high mileage ones for less than £1000 so if the ULEZ doesn't apply to you just get the best you can get for the cheapest. Either 650 or 700 both are cheap to run and more than capable bikes.

The press just makes it a lot easier to fit the new bearings, nothing special about it, I also have removers and crown races drifts all to make it that little bit easier.
Trade secret, its often just the top race thats gone so you can often get away with just replacing that, the forks tend to pivot on the bottom one and smack the crap out of the top one.

Chances are whatever your bike there is a notch front and rear in the frame just above the bottom race for removal, just need to bend a bit of 10mm bar to fit as a drift. Worst comes to worst weld a washer into the race. The race will either fall out as it cools or you can use a drift on the washer to knock it out.
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 11:36 - 26 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rear wheel is back in place now. Not the easiest job to do as you have the fixed panniers on either side and there is little room to get the caliper out.
Deauville forums are full of weird and wonderful ways of how to get the wheel off including removing the drive box! but it is pretty straight forward, just not easy when laid on the floor.

Remove the rear panel with the number plate attached by undoing the 10 rear most bolts inside the panniers, 5 to a side.
Unbolt the 2 rear most exhaust bolts and remove them.
unbolt the 14mm head brake plate bolt and remove it so the caliper can rotate.
Remove the rear pad pin and rotate the wheel backwards so they fall out.
Remove rear axle.
remove the rear caliper and the plate and slide between the pannier and exhaust so its out of the way.
Remove rear wheel.

So a bit more complex than most bikes. in reverse to refit of course.

This picture shows just how little room you have to work in.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20180826_111524_1535278610861_resized.jpg

Before reffiting the rear wheel I had a look at the caliper pistons which looked like this.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20180826_102008_1535278617331_resized.jpg

So 20minutes with a dremel wire brush and they looked a lot better.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20180826_102504_1535278615776_resized.jpg

No need to remove them as they move freely so just a good polish. They are badly pitted but they will be fine for the moment, they will get replaced at the next big service.

With the lowering block fitted the rear is a lot lower. Normally you can get to the rear pad pin but now its hidden away behind the pannier so this is going to make changing the rear pads a bit harder.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20180826_111353_1535278614089_resized.jpg
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bacon
World Chat Champion



Joined: 09 Jan 2009
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PostPosted: 19:36 - 27 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Changing the rear brake pads on the 650 was a nightmare with regards to space too. I really need to take all the rear fairings off and get a few jobs done and give it all a good clean up, I imagine it will be filthy.

Good job Thumbs Up
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 14:00 - 11 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Done a bit more today. Front brake switch changed as well as dip beam bulb.
I need to change the bevel box oil but of course no one keeps straight grade oils in stock so ebay order for SAE80 GL4 oil. I prefer to use GL4 rather than 5 due to 5 rotting out yellow metals and I don't know if there are any in the bevel box.
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pepperami
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Joined: 17 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: 18:11 - 11 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Came to this late., interesting Thumbs Up
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 19:13 - 20 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had some time over the last couple of days so a lot more work has been done.

Front brake light switch replaced. Headlight bulb replaced. Stop and tail, RH replaced.

The new HISS key is programmed. First time I have done this and with the help of a Youtube tutorial it was very easy and straight forward to do. So we now have a spare and if the previous owner still has a spare it will no longer work.

The Air filter and Spark plugs are changed now. These were supposed to have been done recently but hadn't been done for at least 20k. The gaps on the plugs were 50% larger than the new plugs and the filter looked like this. Bike starts quicker and the engine sounds a lot better now.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20180919_183740_1537428970311_resized.jpg

Next up was to fit a quad harness except I found there was already one fitted. This is an accessory loom that plugs into the main loom and gine you four power points. Probelm here was a previous mechanic instead of just plugging in thought he would solder the heated grips to the quad harness making a bit of a mess, all for the sake of a £2 plug.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20180918_140148_resized.jpg

Repaired that with a new plug and clean up with alcohol wipes. This gives an easy point to power the following bits.

A front and rear camera system with screen has been fitted. These are only £40 from Ebay + the cost of a Micro SD so great value. Unfortunately there is nowhere to fit the screen so this will sit in a side pocket.
The cameras are nice and small so easy to fit on virtually any bike.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20180919_182809_1537378335926_resized.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20180919_182836_1537378334758_resized.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20180919_182936_1537378332276_resized.jpg

Fitted a new set of heated grips, Oxford Touring. Easily available from Ebay for £50 delivered and they work extremely well.

I use a Dremel with a cutting blade to remove the old grips. If you're careful you barely touch the throttle tube underneath.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20180920_134401_1537466204337_resized.jpg

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20180920_134527_1537466206095_resized.jpg

New grips look like this.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20180919_182943_1537378330417_resized.jpg

So the bike is now back in one piece and rideable. I need to do a nut a bolt check to make sure everything is secure then a long test ride.

Still more to do. Next job is to make some spotlight mounts and see if I can rewire a ST1100P switch gear to fit.
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