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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
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Oldie |
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Oldie Brolly Dolly
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
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Shaft |
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Shaft World Chat Champion
Joined: 27 Dec 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 22:20 - 25 Aug 2018 Post subject: |
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Nice to see something on one of these, it's probably the only thing I would consider replacing my SW with.
I've still got to do my head bearings, which is apparently a bitch of job because the bottom race is extremely difficult to get out - is that the tool I need to acquire?
Also, is the 700 so significantly better than the 650, that I should hold out for one? ____________________ Things get better with age; I'm close to being magnificent........
20 RE Interceptor, 83 Z1100A3, 83 GS650 Katana
WooHoo, I'm a Man Point Millionaire! https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=234035 |
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 22:42 - 25 Aug 2018 Post subject: |
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Shaft wrote: | Nice to see something on one of these, it's probably the only thing I would consider replacing my SW with.
I've still got to do my head bearings, which is apparently a bitch of job because the bottom race is extremely difficult to get out - is that the tool I need to acquire?
Also, is the 700 so significantly better than the 650, that I should hold out for one? |
The 700 does seem to give better MPG on Motorways, can easily achieve 18mpl according to the inbuilt meter but around town both only give 40-50mpg.
I've only gone for a second 700 as the coolant pipe between cylinders failed on my 650 and I don't have time at the moment to rebuild it and living within the ULEZ I needed a newer bike anyway. My 650 was very comfortable and not quite as civilised as the 700 but either can be very good bikes. Think I will keep the 650 and move it to Wales and rebuild it out there at my leisure.
There are a few cheap 700's knocking around now, I've seen high mileage ones for less than £1000 so if the ULEZ doesn't apply to you just get the best you can get for the cheapest. Either 650 or 700 both are cheap to run and more than capable bikes.
The press just makes it a lot easier to fit the new bearings, nothing special about it, I also have removers and crown races drifts all to make it that little bit easier.
Trade secret, its often just the top race thats gone so you can often get away with just replacing that, the forks tend to pivot on the bottom one and smack the crap out of the top one.
Chances are whatever your bike there is a notch front and rear in the frame just above the bottom race for removal, just need to bend a bit of 10mm bar to fit as a drift. Worst comes to worst weld a washer into the race. The race will either fall out as it cools or you can use a drift on the washer to knock it out. |
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 11:36 - 26 Aug 2018 Post subject: |
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The rear wheel is back in place now. Not the easiest job to do as you have the fixed panniers on either side and there is little room to get the caliper out.
Deauville forums are full of weird and wonderful ways of how to get the wheel off including removing the drive box! but it is pretty straight forward, just not easy when laid on the floor.
Remove the rear panel with the number plate attached by undoing the 10 rear most bolts inside the panniers, 5 to a side.
Unbolt the 2 rear most exhaust bolts and remove them.
unbolt the 14mm head brake plate bolt and remove it so the caliper can rotate.
Remove the rear pad pin and rotate the wheel backwards so they fall out.
Remove rear axle.
remove the rear caliper and the plate and slide between the pannier and exhaust so its out of the way.
Remove rear wheel.
So a bit more complex than most bikes. in reverse to refit of course.
This picture shows just how little room you have to work in.
https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20180826_111524_1535278610861_resized.jpg
Before reffiting the rear wheel I had a look at the caliper pistons which looked like this.
https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20180826_102008_1535278617331_resized.jpg
So 20minutes with a dremel wire brush and they looked a lot better.
https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20180826_102504_1535278615776_resized.jpg
No need to remove them as they move freely so just a good polish. They are badly pitted but they will be fine for the moment, they will get replaced at the next big service.
With the lowering block fitted the rear is a lot lower. Normally you can get to the rear pad pin but now its hidden away behind the pannier so this is going to make changing the rear pads a bit harder.
https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20180826_111353_1535278614089_resized.jpg |
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bacon |
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bacon World Chat Champion
Joined: 09 Jan 2009 Karma :
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Posted: 19:36 - 27 Aug 2018 Post subject: |
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Changing the rear brake pads on the 650 was a nightmare with regards to space too. I really need to take all the rear fairings off and get a few jobs done and give it all a good clean up, I imagine it will be filthy.
Good job |
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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pepperami |
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pepperami Super Spammer
Joined: 17 Jan 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 18:11 - 11 Sep 2018 Post subject: |
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Came to this late., interesting ____________________ I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now! |
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 5 years, 218 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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