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Seating Tubeless tyres

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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 13:55 - 20 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

G wrote:
(paste) This has helped me using smaller and big 12v compressors to seat beads plenty of times.


If you've managed to fit tyres using a 12v compressor, I'd say you're Billericay Dickie! Well done.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 14:13 - 20 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Can't get a tyre to seat on the bead at 48psi, it needs more lube or reseatting. Can't get an iinitial seal then strap it or ideally use a large rubber ring.


I read the OP's problems as being unable to get the tyre bead out of the well and onto the rim at all. Once it's on, then even someone up there's^ 12v compressor should do the job.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 14:35 - 20 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
That is one of the most irresponsible and dangerous video I have ever seen of how to fit motorcyle tyres. It would make a really good video of how to fit tyres of you want to die.

If that tyre had blown off the rim and keep in mind it is not just the tyre you have to worry about, you can't see a crack in the rim under the paint the 2nd fitter would have lost his hand if not his whole arm and his life and the first fitter his head.


I agree with this. If you want to see how dangerous tyre fitting can be if people get it wrong, there are lots and lots of videos out there, from fitting big lorry tyres in (or without) cages, to "blowing up", literally, tyres using butane, ether etc., what happens when tyre plies start letting go when inflated and the sidewall bursts, split rims coming apart in or not in cages, etc., sidewalls bursting when the tyre's fitted using gas explosions.

Is it just a problem with big tyres? Nope. My mum had an ordinary mobility scooter with 8x2 tyres. She gave it to someone who later wanted to change the tyres. He undid the four obvious nuts on the wheel disk, like the ones you see on car wheels. It was a split rim, and after it blew apart he was unable to use three of his fingers for a while 'cos they were bandaged, and had to have new patio door glass fitted where part of the wheel smashed into it.

Not that this is likely to be a problem for the OP, of course. I hope!
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G
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PostPosted: 15:07 - 20 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't believe it's dangerous, as you claim it is.
I think you have misunderstood the physics of air movement in this situation and there's not the danger you claim.

However, if there is evidence to prove your assertion, then I'd be interested to see it.

With tyres that have a reasonable seal, flow is less of an issue in my experience.

With a tyre that's had a heavy box sitting on it in a courier van, deforming it a bit; flow rate even for tanked air compressors does make a difference.

Quote:

If you've managed to fit tyres using a 12v compressor, I'd say you're Billericay Dickie! Well done.

I have seated beads with fairly wimpy 12v compressors, but my current one is a T-Maxx Adventuruer, which is about 0.75hp, designed for 4x4s, so decent flow. Sometimes it does require a bit of a bounce, but normally fairly quick. Can just about manage to do both tyres between sessions at a trackday (around 40 minutes.)
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TigerWax
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PostPosted: 16:23 - 20 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
I read the OP's problems as being unable to get the tyre bead out of the well and onto the rim at all.


Yeah this.

So I've officially admitted defeat and taken the rear rim to a bike shop so hopefully at some point tomorrow I can pay my £20 (+ VAT) and then put it back on and repeat the process with the front tyre (won't be bothering to swap the tyre this time round though!).
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 17:54 - 20 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

G wrote:
I don't believe it's dangerous, as you claim it is.
I think you have misunderstood the physics of air movement in this situation and there's not the danger you claim.

However, if there is evidence to prove your assertion, then I'd be interested to see it.


Any particular scenario? It would be nice to see what specifically you think isn't dangerous. I'm not trying to be nasty, BTW, just asking.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 18:24 - 20 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

So just because it can't be proved it is dangerous you have decided it is safe.

Its very simple and easy to fit a tyre where the bead doesn't want to seat, you just use a bead seating ring on one side and in extreme cases both sides. This video shows how they work but I would never stand on the wheel while doing it, I would use a cage or at the very least a very long airline so I was no where near it.

Clicky for video.
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G
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PostPosted: 19:36 - 20 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:

Any particular scenario? It would be nice to see what specifically you think isn't dangerous. I'm not trying to be nasty, BTW, just asking.

Specifically; I do not believe using a 40l bead blaster would either pop the tyre off a motorcycle wheel, nor will it break or otherwise damage a wheel that has been otherwise fine on the bike before.

I don't believe it's dangerous through my understanding of how the air is likely to be have. This may not be correct; I'm happy to be corrected if evidence is provided.

The bead blaster allows a high volume of air to quickly fill the tyre, pushing it out.
To blow the tyre off the rim or damage the rime I believe you would need a very high pressure of air inside the rim.
Before the air inside the rim gets near that pressure required to an issue, I believe the air low-pressure (high speed) air that is coming out of the bead blaster will not continue to enter the tyre, but will be pushed out by the pressure.

It is a good while since I've studied fluid dynamics - so if someone better understands the equations involved, interested to see it worked out.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 20:07 - 20 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

G wrote:
so if someone better understands the equations involved, interested to see it worked out.


How exactly do you plan on measuring EVERY tyre and wheel combination?

YOU are making assumptions. YOU need to prove it's safe not everyone else prove it isn't before you recommend it.
As it is I have shown an easy safe method to seat a hard to seat bead.

How do you plan to compensate for damaged wheels or mistakes in manufacture of the tyre?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 20 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is tyre-ing.

One must tread carefully lest someone's ego gets deflated.
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G
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PostPosted: 22:40 - 20 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't plan on measuring every tyre and wheel combination. Though if really bothered, once the equations were understood, it'd be pretty easy to produce a model that considered the reasonable bounds of the ranges available.

However; I think it's a moot point for all combinations due to how I believe the fluid mechanics work in this situation.

Being pedantic, I didn't explicitly recommend it as a solution. I stated that a bead blaster device was available. However, I appreciate people may take that as a recommendation.

I did however suggest a small explosion had worked for me in the past. A solution that I did not claim nor prove was safe and would hope was self-evident is not entirely safe, yet still offered it as a solution I myself had successfully used to solve the problem at hand.
It turns out I don't need to prove something is safe before "recommending it" and can indeed mention things that are not safe.

This 12 litre version explicitly states it can be used on motorcycles:
https://www.tyre-equipment.co.uk/acatalog/Gaither-Bead-BAZOOKA-9-litre--BB09L-GTC_BB09L.html
(The reason I got a 40 litre one is I also wished to use it as a portable air tank to top up bikes away from a compressor.)

This bigger one doesn't mention motorcycles, but does say it will work with 'small lawn mowers'.
https://www.hawktools.co.uk/10-gallon-bead-blaster.html


I'm not bothered by the safety of your solution; but you have not offered proof of this and the only link you've provided shows the device being used on a different sort of vehicle's wheel in a manner you state you would not use it. Having not seen them before, I did try and find more information about their use on motorcycles, but couldn't find any.


Last edited by G on 06:53 - 21 Sep 2018; edited 2 times in total
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 22:43 - 20 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

G wrote:
Specifically; I do not believe using a 40l bead blaster would either pop the tyre off a motorcycle wheel, nor will it break or otherwise damage a wheel that has been otherwise fine on the bike before.


Sorry, don't know.
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TigerWax
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PostPosted: 10:29 - 21 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not looking to stoke the fire any further but before I took it to an actual bike shop I went round some of the car tyre places near my work and the only one who didn't tell me to do one did actually say I needed a shooter but he didn't have one: I believe he was referring to a bead blaster. From my perspective (someone with no experience in changing tyres) that guy is a professional (I'm guessing a lot of you would probably label him as something else) since he gets paid to change tyres so rightly (or wrongly) I would have looked to follow his advice prior to this thread: obviously now I think fuck it life is to short for this shit so I'm just going to pay someone else in future for the easy life.

Moving on to what I actually want to know more about:

sickpup wrote:
Its very simple and easy to fit a tyre where the bead doesn't want to seat, you just use a bead seating ring on one side and in extreme cases both sides. This video shows how they work but I would never stand on the wheel while doing it, I would use a cage or at the very least a very long airline so I was no where near it.


That looks like a fantastic solution! After reading that I was blown away that this was the first time I have heard of it because it looks very idiot proof, however, where the hell do you get these from? YBR 125 Custom has funny tyre sizes (front 18" rim and back 16" rim) and I'll be damned if I could find one in either size:



Where the heck do you get them in appropriate sizes?
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 11:24 - 21 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never seen them. I just use an ordinary small 25l compressor like those than can be had off eBay for less than £50. First, I thought the "bead blaster" (an USAian term?) was for cleaning metal, etc., & thort "Whut?". Smile
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 15:25 - 21 Sep 2018    Post subject: tyre Reply with quote

Yep there are all sorts of tricks to make the tyre bead rise the safety bead of the wheel, but over pressure is not really one of them as tyres have been known to "explode" or jump over the beads KILLING the fitter in the proccess, which is why a safety cage is used.

If you have fitted a tyre and then hear a sort of "tearing" sort of noise, RETREAT immediately as the cords in the tyre are breaking !!!

Most people would go closer to the tyre to try and see/find the noise, which is of course completely the wrong thing to do.

To seat a soaped bead the bouncing method may work for you, along with a compressor of sorts to try and force the beads to seat even slightly, so more air goes in than escapes, using a rachet strap or similar, and even seating one side of the tyres bead to the wheel by human force, hands gripping the tyre and a well placed foot on the wheel.

If this works then all you have to deal with is the unseated/sealed side. Setting up the wheel so a slight push to seat the unseated side, along with a good supply of compressed air. Valve core removal helps with good air flow.

Once the tyre has seated on both beads then "normal pressure " and the soaped beads should be enough for the tyres bead to slide over the safety bead and seal properly and completely, but sometimes this does not happen, with an area of bead not rising/riding/slipping over the safety bead.

This is a dangerous condition, walking into casualty with a wheel hanging off your hand with you screaming the house down must be quite a sight, one i have never seen mind.

My alloy kawasaki wheels can sometimes be problematic with the tyres bead not completely rising over the safety bead of the wheel. I tend to inflate to the max pressure stated on the tyre and leave the wheel well out of the way in the sunshine, or have even placed the wheel/tyre relatively close to a heat source, and it eventually "pops" into place all by its self.

Then check that the tyre has seated evenly on the wheel using the tyres guide "lip" edge.

Tyres stored in a stack can be problematic.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 15:32 - 21 Sep 2018    Post subject: tyres Reply with quote

The op originally titled his thread "tyre seating"

Fitting the new tyre ( never mind taking the old one off ! ) should not be a struggle, in fact if you are fighting it you are doing it wrong.

I use short levers for the bigger bikes, both on and off, with small bits of the cherry, but for smaller bikes I can get the smaller more supple tyres on with hands only, mainly thumbs.

Its all about technique and porrage for breakfast.

If you hear a tearing/ripping noise whilst fitting a tyre, you have just fucked it!!!
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TigerWax
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PostPosted: 08:50 - 22 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

So just to complete the story I now have an inflated rear tyre. I asked what the issue was and he said that the tyre side walls had been compressed from being stacked badly. He asked if I was offered a chance to inspect the tyre prior to purchase: i brought the tyre from oponeo so I guess that I could have inspected during delivery and refused to accept it at that point? I assume after that point to get it exchanged I would be liable for postage so going to chalk this up as a risk of ordering online and this time I have been unlucky.

I asked what they did to get it to seat but he didn't really answer the question: I've noticed that the tyre valve I put in has been replaced with one that has a securing nut so I'm guessing I have an inner tube in there now.

I do wonder if maybe something to deal with this issue in future is to inflate an appropiate inner tube in the tyre and leave in the sun prior to installation to give it a chance to push the side walls out?

Anyway I will be installing the rear tyre so I can take off the front and take both the old and new front tyres to the shop so I can finally get my bike back on the road.

Thanks for everyone's help.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 09:10 - 22 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

TigerWax wrote:
So just to complete the story I now have an inflated rear tyre. I asked what the issue was and he said that the tyre side walls had been compressed from being stacked badly. He asked if I was offered a chance to inspect the tyre prior to purchase: i brought the tyre from oponeo so I guess that I could have inspected during delivery and refused to accept it at that point? I assume after that point to get it exchanged I would be liable for postage so going to chalk this up as a risk of ordering online and this time I have been unlucky.

I asked what they did to get it to seat but he didn't really answer the question: I've noticed that the tyre valve I put in has been replaced with one that has a securing nut so I'm guessing I have an inner tube in there now.

I do wonder if maybe something to deal with this issue in future is to inflate an appropiate inner tube in the tyre and leave in the sun prior to installation to give it a chance to push the side walls out?

Anyway I will be installing the rear tyre so I can take off the front and take both the old and new front tyres to the shop so I can finally get my bike back on the road.

Thanks for everyone's help.


Good news.

BTW... don't bother starting anymore threads about tyres on here.

Sickpup's nerves won't take any more.

🤣

They put a tube in cause they couldn't seat the bead?

Not correct. They should have advised before doing that.

Tubeless tires already have an inner tube incorporated in their construction.
They have a soft layer of rubber as the inner tube. It extends out around the bead to create the seal on both sides.

https://www.bigtyres.co.uk/blog/fitting-tubes-in-tubeless-tyres.html

Fitting a tube to a tubeless tire is a bit.of a bodge.

Possibly run it I for a week or so to allow tje side walls to conform to the wheel then whip it off and pull the inner tube out.

There is absolutely no need to use an inner tube. Professionally speaking.

https://www.bigtyres.co.uk/blog/category/tyre-knowledge.html
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 11:38 - 22 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

TigerWax wrote:
I do wonder if maybe something to deal with this issue in future is to inflate an appropiate inner tube in the tyre and leave in the sun prior to installation to give it a chance to push the side walls out?


As I started to read your post about "stacking" & I thought "Next time, I'll push a lot of crumpled up newspaper in and leave it for a couple of days", but inflating a tube in it sounds good, I wouldn't overdo it though.

I don't think there's any point in "leaving it in the sun prior to installation", that would mean you'd only be able to change tyres most years on alternate Thursdays in July.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 12:57 - 22 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keeping tyres in the house maybe against a radiator would help though.
Or warm gently with a hair dryer or hot air blower
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MCN
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PostPosted: 14:36 - 28 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
TigerWax wrote:
I do wonder if maybe something to deal with this issue in future is to inflate an appropiate inner tube in the tyre and leave in the sun prior to installation to give it a chance to push the side walls out?


As I started to read your post about "stacking" & I thought "Next time, I'll push a lot of crumpled up newspaper in and leave it for a couple of days", but inflating a tube in it sounds good, I wouldn't overdo it though.

I don't think there's any point in "leaving it in the sun prior to installation", that would mean you'd only be able to change tyres most years on alternate Thursdays in July.


One would not pay for broken biscuits or cracked eggs so why would one pay for damaged tyres?

Return to sender.
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