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YBR 125 rattle

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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 15:09 - 02 Oct 2018    Post subject: YBR 125 rattle Reply with quote

A guy is bringing round a bike he just bought off Gumtree against my advice I might add

Its a 2011 YBR125 done 33,000 miles and he says it 'rattles' at 40mph and wont go any faster
then he checked the oil and topped up Brick Wall
and says it's slightly faster but still 'rattles' at 40

I'm still waiting to see it
Any tips on what to check? common weaknesses faults on these things?

Worst case scenario, major bearing run dry and fooked
so it's decent SH lump hunting or
Is there a chinese equivalent engine that will plug and play?

TIA
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Evil Hans
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PostPosted: 15:36 - 02 Oct 2018    Post subject: Re: YBR 125 rattle Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:

Is there a chinese equivalent engine that will plug and play?
TIA


I think this is the Jianshe equivalent:

https://www.chinesemotorcyclepartsonline.co.uk/partno_ENG043#image2

Try Aliexpress Wink
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 16:51 - 02 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Worst case scenario and it has a worn out main or big end, these small singles are not that hard to dismantle and repair with new bearings.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 02 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep simple enough but if the crank has any scoring it can get more complicated, time cpnsuming and expensive.
Bike history is uknown it may have had 33000 hard miles
It doesn't sound smooth at all, I suspect no/low oil and main bearings

Plus he wants it yesterday and just told me he's sourced a second hand lump locally he's assured is a good un, so I'm swapping them over for him.
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 19:57 - 02 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:

Plus he wants it yesterday and just told me he's sourced a second hand lump locally he's assured is a good un, so I'm swapping them over for him.


Good solution. I hate the way so many 125s are abused. My 18 year old CG125 has its oil changed every 1000 miles and checked every day before it is used. Pays off. I'm using full synthetic and at an oil change the oil is still honey coloured. Uses next to none too - about an egg cup full in a thousand miles of often quite hard riding.

Hope the new motor turns out to be good.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 21:50 - 02 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've started stripping stuff off and removing the wheels,
the daft sod bought with illegal/bald tyres and didnt know !
( he bought it cos it was red..... FFS!)
so wheels will go in for new boots as I swap lumps

problemette:
the tank is ready to lift off but not sure how to release the fuel pipe
from underneath.
It has brown clip that moves a bit and obviously has something to do with locking it on to the plastic pressure pipe from the pump.
I dont want to get heavy handed and break the bugger or plastic pipe so any tips anyone?
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Evil Hans
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PostPosted: 11:08 - 03 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I remember right, there is a knurled side on the brown clip? I think you slide the clip by pushing the brown bit towards that side, and it should release the hose.

If it's the type I'm thinking of. I could be wrong!


Edit - found a pic. Can anyone confirm that's how it works?
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 03 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks that's the one
I did try pushing it in the direction of the knurled bit and tugging/twisting etc but as i has history of breaking delicate fings what wont come off proper, I'm trying to be good for a change.
For now it's perched on top out of the way as much as possible.
Breaking the clip wouldn't be a total disaster as I'd just cut the tube back a wee bit and bung a jubilee clip on the fecker.
Breaking the plastic pipe would be new pump time Shocked
I'll see how it goes

Anyway I have a bigger problem
The engine bolts are all crusty but I got them all to move ready to drop the engine, but when trying to move the most inaccessble one at the bottom, the bold head sheared off!
ahh shit, it's always the hardest to get at ones that give you grief
The bolt body is well stuck in the casing and the threaded part is through the frame

Tomorrow I'll see if I can get a 1mm disc cutter blade under there to cut the bolt through the casing but that takes me back to getting the tank safely out of the way...........
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