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Soggz
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 13 Oct 2018
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PostPosted: 13:01 - 16 Oct 2018    Post subject: BMW k75c... Reply with quote

Hi. Just picked up this bike.
It’s been sat since 2008 and never been started due to the owner being to ill to ride it and advised not to.
Battery is obviously no good, so I will get another.
Now, I know it’s not just a case of fresh fuel and off we go,so..... how is the best way to go about getting it running again?
Thanks in advance.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



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PostPosted: 13:33 - 16 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Better be quick before smiler gets it.
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piazza
Brolly Dolly



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PostPosted: 14:02 - 16 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hook it up to a battery and make sure the electrics work for a start. Then I'd flush the tank and drain the carbs - not sure you could coat the cylinders in oil first, maybe the bottom half ha! - get some new plugs and check the oil. Air filter will be borked and have wildlife in it Laughing

Turning it over by hand first would be preferable if possible.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 14:32 - 16 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would throw a battery and some fresh fuel at it, check the air filter is not in lots of pieces and try it, chances are it would fire up.

See how it runs and spot problems and fix them, may need a carb clean, brake strip, bearings, chain etc. it may not.

After that I'd drain and replace all fluids, change air filter and plugs and stick some new tyres on it and ride.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 14:56 - 16 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would start by removing the plugs and squirting / spraying some lube in the cylinders and leaving for a day and then turning the engine over slowly in top gear turning the back wheel forwards still spraying.
Then tank/pipes/carb strip clean, then tyres,fluids,service as mentioned.
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Soggz
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 17:51 - 16 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Erm... thanks guys, but it’s fuel injection and shaft drive, for a start...so...
This smiler guy... he know lots about BMW K75C’s?
I do know bikes, as I recently restored an old CX Eurosport, but I know nothing of fuel injection with computor management system, hence the enquiry.(It’s my 9th. bike)....
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 17:55 - 16 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well ok then, so the injectors will need cleaning and testing along with the fuel rails/pipes.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 18:33 - 16 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a K100RS and K100RT for a few years so very similar
I likes me shaftys me
the RT needed a bit of tlc to 'wake up' and that had only been stood for 4 years.
Non running for 10 years eh?
is it ABS? that can be a PITA when they play up

I wouldn't be trying start it just yet
I'd have any side fairing panels and tank off the better to get at the gubbins first
and whip the pump and filter out of the tank to check and clean them

Buy a big ass tin of good quality switch cleaner and open check/clean all
electrial connectors plus check/clean the main grounding points on the frame spine near the ignition unit
Ditto the ECU plug under the toolbox under the seat and the tps too

Check the clutch release lever at the rear hasn't seized, bit of an arse ache if it is

I'd buy and fit service items, oil/plugs/filters etc
I'd also buy a really good quality set of allen/hex keys
old fuel may have gummed up the injectors and pressure regulator so some cleaner my be needed, you may be lucky though.

I could go on and on....................
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Soggz
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PostPosted: 23:44 - 16 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
I had a K100RS and K100RT for a few years so very similar
I likes me shaftys me
the RT needed a bit of tlc to 'wake up' and that had only been stood for 4 years.
Non running for 10 years eh?
is it ABS? that can be a PITA when they play up

I wouldn't be trying start it just yet
I'd have any side fairing panels and tank off the better to get at the gubbins first
and whip the pump and filter out of the tank to check and clean them

Buy a big ass tin of good quality switch cleaner and open check/clean all
electrial connectors plus check/clean the main grounding points on the frame spine near the ignition unit
Ditto the ECU plug under the toolbox under the seat and the tps too

Check the clutch release lever at the rear hasn't seized, bit of an arse ache if it is

I'd buy and fit service items, oil/plugs/filters etc
I'd also buy a really good quality set of allen/hex keys
old fuel may have gummed up the injectors and pressure regulator so some cleaner my be needed, you may be lucky though.

I could go on and on....................
Hey thanks. Yes. I will start going through it gradually. It’s still in the garden under a tarp,as I literally got it back home last Friday! I’ve bought a new battery only this afternoon, tank needs cleaning out as there is about 2cm of yellow petrol in there. I will symphony that out at the weekend, and start going through it all. Is it easy to drain/clean the injectors,etc.? These type of bikes are all new to me, or just clean and dry out the tank, put clean fuel in, put the battery on, clean the plugs, crank it and hope for the best? Good idea to put 10 of oil down the plug holes for a starter lube?
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 23:51 - 16 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dip the oil to make sure it's got enough in it, use jaffa90's idea of turning it over, just to make sure it does, then add a fresh battery and fresh petrol, with a bottle of petrol injector cleaner, then spin it over and see what happens.

Lubricating the whole bore is easy on an upright engine, pouring oil into the bore of a K bike only ever lubricates half of it, so it's a waste of time.

When you turn on the ignition, if it all lights up you're good to go - no need to worry about spinning it over with the coil disconnected to build up oil pressure, after 10 years it's never going to fire first time.

K bikes are generally bomb proof, the 75 is reckoned to be the best of the bunch, so get it running first - if you can't do that relatively easily, forget it, unless you have money to burn.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 01:10 - 17 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

The injection is Bosch LE Jetronic which is pretty reliable.

Like others said chek damp hasnt hurt the electrics first.

If you give it some fresh fuel, hook it up to a fresh battery and it will probably start after a while, provided its not full of damp rot.

The if it is really obstinate, the fuel filter is in the tank with the pump, injectors and coils are on the left side, under the plastic shield.

Once you get it running, remember its a non unit bike so it has a seperate engine and gearbox. 10w40 or 20w50 car oil in the engine, 80w90 gear oil in the gearbox. Pull off the rear bevel box every year and grease the drive shaft splines with moly.
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BTTD
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PostPosted: 09:27 - 17 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shine a torch inside the tank. Look at the in tank fuel pump and the fuel pipe in there. Has it turned to mush? They break down eventually and will then clog the pump and filter. I'd be inclined to change that in tank fuel line now, as in all likelihood it'll need doing at some point.
It's special fuel hose, must be rated for constant immersion. Might be R10 or something like that. It can be a pain in the arse to do though.

I had a K1 that sat for a while.It needed:
In tank fuel hose, pump, filter.
Fresh fuel.
New battery.

It then fired up.

New tyres.
Front brake master cylinder seal.
Fresh brake fluid.
Indicator module.

Passed an MOT.

After that it was normal service stuff like an oil change and new plugs.
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canuck7
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 17 Oct 2018
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PostPosted: 14:45 - 17 Oct 2018    Post subject: Re: BMW k75c... Reply with quote

Soggz wrote:
Hi. Just picked up this bike.
It’s been sat since 2008 and never been started due to the owner being to ill to ride it and advised not to.
Battery is obviously no good, so I will get another.
Now, I know it’s not just a case of fresh fuel and off we go,so..... how is the best way to go about getting it running again?
Thanks in advance.


Hi , i bought a "stored one" a few years back. the seller had bought it off his mate and it had been in a shed off the road for 5 years, this guy got it running and mot'd it. it was fine until it developed a fueling problem, cutting out then running again. due to problems i had at the time, i could not mentally apply myself to find out what was wrong. i sold it as a non runner and it turns out it was the fuel pump INSIDE the petrol tank was knackered. a very common fault apparently! so any issues look there. there is a filter inside the tank which gets blocked. Neutral
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Soggz
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 13 Oct 2018
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PostPosted: 18:36 - 17 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, yes, I bought it as a winter project. I don’t know about these’k’ bikes at all! I will start going through it all in a few weeks. Can’t get on with it yet as busy in other things, but I really appreciate all the advice I can get! I have a Climer manual with it, hopefully, that will come in handy. It’s a tidy bike, but judging by the front light fairing and left casing, it has been down the road. Came with a new light fairing.Looking forwards to getting my teeth into it, it only cost me 300 quid. So far...(battery was 51£).
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TheSmiler
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PostPosted: 08:26 - 20 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easiest bikes to work on in my opinion I'll discuss any queries through PM. Nice to see another k owner on here. Thumbs Up
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 09:56 - 20 Oct 2018    Post subject: bmw Reply with quote

Hi. Just picked up this bike.
It’s been sat since 2008 and never been started due to the owner being to ill to ride it and advised not to.

so sat for 8 years, long enough for a stuck clutch, stuck brakes and stuck valves.

A stuck valve ( open usually ) and a rising piston ( well you know what I mean ) means real damage, even a valve opening against a stuck one means they will tangle and disaster.

So make sure all valves open and close all ok, there is access for vision.

No one seems to mentions this apart from me, i know it happens so be warned.
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andyscooter
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PostPosted: 10:15 - 20 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

after ten years guessing all the rubber hoses etc will be cracked and knackerd so will need replacing
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 12:01 - 20 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Soggz


https://www.motobrick.com/index.php
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TheSmiler
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PostPosted: 14:13 - 20 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:


The k100 forum is a nicer place and more pleasent to the normal person unless you are doing a perfect rebuild.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 17:03 - 20 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nicer? more pleasant?
what, like BCF?
It aint a dating site Smiler
K100/Brick/Kycowboys.. it doesnt matter
what you need is good accurate bike info even if they
are a cunch of bunts
like BCF
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 20 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just remember that it's a very different bike almost anything made in Japan, so the usual advice doesn't necessarily apply.

Barring the curious design decision on the drive shaft (myself or smiler can help you out on that and its not a major issue), the build quality on them is excellent.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 09:08 - 21 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shaft wrote:


Lubricating the whole bore is easy on an upright engine, pouring oil into the bore of a K bike only ever lubricates half of it, so it's a waste of time.
.


Is it though? If there's corrosion e.g from condensation then this will be concentrated at the bottom wouldn't it? Where the (start-up) oil will flow too - just a thought..
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Soggz
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 13 Oct 2018
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PostPosted: 07:52 - 23 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, I’ve put it in gear and moved it. Nothings locked up. Spoke to th po yesterday, he says it was fine when he rode it last. He was told by his dr. not to ride again, due to having dizzy spells, and it was garaged in a dry place ever since! It needs a bit of cosmetic work as he came of at about 20 mph on a muddy road, but it came with a replacement front light cowl and new screen. Clutch seems ok, havnt put the new battery on yet, will do in a coupe of weeks. Bit busy at the moment. I tend to start work on it around the latter part of November. It’s the same guy I got my cx eurosport from, for the same reason.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 18:29 - 23 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
Is it though? If there's corrosion e.g from condensation then this will be concentrated at the bottom wouldn't it? Where the (start-up) oil will flow too - just a thought..


The main issue that BMW tried to solve with a couple of changes of design of oil scraper ring was keeping oil OUT of the combustion chamber when the bike had sat on the side stand for any length of time.
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Soggz
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 21:38 - 23 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

temeluchus wrote:
A100man wrote:
Is it though? If there's corrosion e.g from condensation then this will be concentrated at the bottom wouldn't it? Where the (start-up) oil will flow too - just a thought..


The main issue that BMW tried to solve with a couple of changes of design of oil scraper ring was keeping oil OUT of the combustion chamber when the bike had sat on the side stand for any length of time.
the po did say that if it was parked up on the side stand that it always would give out a puff of smoke on start up becuase of oil getting up through. Just one of those things. It was kept parked on the centre stand. I was told to inject about 5 ml of oil into each cylinder before starting it, as it helps compression. It won’t start otherwise, apparently. Saw in on YouTube too.
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