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Bottom yoke fork clamps torque (Rieju RS3 125, guess)?

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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 11:07 - 26 Nov 2018    Post subject: Bottom yoke fork clamps torque (Rieju RS3 125, guess)? Reply with quote

Bottom yoke is light alloy, most graceful construction, clamped by two M6 coarse Allen bolts (4x diameter thread length!!). Forks are 55mm diameter at that point.

Any ideas about torque settings? I'm trying to get a workshop manual, but it could be a while, or never.
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 20:24 - 26 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the lower fork clamps are cast then,as the standard clamps on my KTM are,then they are listed as 15nm.

But I have some aftermarket top and lower fork clamps fitted which are CNC machined and they have engraved on them that the tightening torque is lower at 12nm.

Do not forget that if you tighten the lower clamp too much then that can not only affect the fork operation but can also cause the clamp to shear off.

It is a good idea to use blue Loctite on the threads.This stops corrosion of the steel bolt in the alloy casting Thumbs Up Wink
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 26 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fizzer Thou wrote:
If the lower fork clamps are cast then,as the standard clamps on my KTM are,then they are listed as 15nm.

But I have some aftermarket top and lower fork clamps fitted which are CNC machined and they have engraved on them that the tightening torque is lower at 12nm.

Do not forget that if you tighten the lower clamp too much then that can not only affect the fork operation but can also cause the clamp to shear off.

It is a good idea to use blue Loctite on the threads.This stops corrosion of the steel bolt in the alloy casting Thumbs Up Wink


Yes, they're cast. Nice things, but as you mention delicate; I don't want to snap the things, hence the question.

I wish I could get a workshop manual off them, or at least the list of torque settings. Engine could be easier, as it's Yamaha-with-Minarelli-tuning.
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 22:32 - 26 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have any mechanical sympathy?
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 22:57 - 26 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fisty wrote:
Do you have any mechanical sympathy?


Yes, I could guess... Smile but I don't really want to in this case, or at least I want to make an informed guess. Used bottom yokes with both lock stops intact are *rare*, and new ones are rather over £100....
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:05 - 26 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Odd set screws, I'd have expected a plain shoulder on them...

However, the limiting factor is the grade of steel the screws are made of. That determines the stretch required to keep them in place. So do they have any markings on the heads?

I can't tell from the picture but if there is any logic, they are made from BZP, 8,8 mild steel. In which case you should do them up to 10Nm according to a standard engineering torque table. Reduce that to 9Nm if they are greased.

If, however, they were made of A2 stainless (an ill-advised material to screw into alloy and I would use loads of copper grease if they are) I would go with 7Nm.

As above, use your head and your hand, don't rely on a torque wrench which is only good for telling you when they are tight enough. It can't tell you a fastener is too tight if it starts to stretch prematurely.

In any case, a stripped thread can be easily repaired and was probably indicating it was knackered anyway. A broken bolt is much harder to deal with.
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 23:11 - 26 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
Used bottom yokes with both lock stops intact are *rare*, and new ones are rather over £100....

If the standard lock stops are a bit fragile then,if there is sufficient material under where the lockstops are located,then drill and tap the hole and install an allen bolt.This should withstand more hits than a cast lockstop.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 23:38 - 26 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Odd set screws, I'd have expected a plain shoulder on them...

However, the limiting factor is the grade of steel the screws are made of. That determines the stretch required to keep them in place. So do they have any markings on the heads?

I can't tell from the picture but if there is any logic, they are made from BZP, 8,8 mild steel. In which case you should do them up to 10Nm according to a standard engineering torque table. Reduce that to 9Nm if they are greased.


Yes, they are BZP 8.8 Yes, I would have expected a shoulder. I doubt it would be easy to strip the thread as there is 4x diameter of thread to engage! Don't want to snap the alloy band.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 23:56 - 26 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fizzer Thou wrote:
If the standard lock stops are a bit fragile then,if there is sufficient material under where the lockstops are located,then drill and tap the hole and install an allen bolt.This should withstand more hits than a cast lockstop.


They're nice castings. Under, there are threaded blind holes presumably used during manufacturing, These could be possibly extended through to the top surface, but they don't line up with the stops, so a bit of sheet metalwork might have to be bolted on. Building the lug up with weld could also be a goer. It's a pity they break like that.
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