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YBR 125 Noise as chain rolls over front sprocket

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Huarachedevil
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 01 Dec 2018
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PostPosted: 14:09 - 09 Dec 2018    Post subject: YBR 125 Noise as chain rolls over front sprocket Reply with quote

Hi all.

As the title suggests, a noise (not too loud but clearly audible) is present as the chain moves, and I'm 99% sure it's from the area where the chain passes over the front sprocket.

I think it was there when I got the bike a couple of weeks ago or shortly afterwards.

Last week, I adjusted the chain under the supervision of a guy that is a bit of an expert. He checked the slack and tightness and was happy. The alignment marks are 2 on the one side and 3 on the other, but he said they aren't precise and a gap of one is perfectly okay. She rides beautifully.

I'm 17.5st, but it makes the noise on the centre stand too.

I can't remember exactly what I adjusted to, either 20mm or 25mm, perhaps the former.

Maybe I should slacken the chain a little? Or is it normal and nothing to worry about?

I've cleaned and lubed the chain 3 or 4 times in the last week and think I'm doing it pretty well (using YouTube videos as my main tutor); the only thing I've not been doing is wiping off the excess. I'm a bit worried about taking too much of the wax off.

I've not taken any covers off or checked the front sprocket, yet. That's quite a lot ahead of where I want to be with maintenance at the minute. It was bought from the Superbike Factory two weeks back so should be at least okay. 16 plate, 3500 miles.

Be great to hear your thoughts 😁
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MCN
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PostPosted: 14:21 - 09 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to remove the cover over the fdon sprocket, clean all the chain lube off. (Brake cleaner or petrol is about the only stuff that can eat through chain lube)
Cut a plastic gallon container in half to make a wee collecting bucket and get tore in with a 1“ paint brush.)
Noise from a chain drive can be due to the sprocket teeth becoming 'Hooked' (that is when the chain rollers begin to eat into the teeth. If it is hooked you can see one side is a different profile from the other.)
Hooked sprockets cause a chain to rattle as the chain gets hung up in the teeth and is pulled off by the drive motion. Chain drivers should be as free of resistance as possible.

The other reason is chain too tight. Adjust according to the the O.E.M. instructions.
Too slack will also make it noisy.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 14:46 - 09 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

He's an expert but has left your wheel missaligbed?
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tom_e
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PostPosted: 14:51 - 09 Dec 2018    Post subject: Re: YBR 125 Noise as chain rolls over front sprocket Reply with quote

Huarachedevil wrote:
It was bought from the Superbike Factory two weeks back so should be at least okay.


Don't bet on it, they're well known for punting out polished turds.
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Huarachedevil
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 01 Dec 2018
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PostPosted: 17:13 - 09 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
You need to remove the cover over the fdon sprocket, clean all the chain lube off. (Brake cleaner or petrol is about the only stuff that can eat through chain lube)
Cut a plastic gallon container in half to make a wee collecting bucket and get tore in with a 1“ paint brush.)
Noise from a chain drive can be due to the sprocket teeth becoming 'Hooked' (that is when the chain rollers begin to eat into the teeth. If it is hooked you can see one side is a different profile from the other.)
Hooked sprockets cause a chain to rattle as the chain gets hung up in the teeth and is pulled off by the drive motion. Chain drivers should be as free of resistance as possible.

The other reason is chain too tight. Adjust according to the the O.E.M. instructions.
Too slack will also make it noisy.


Hey, thanks for all this.

I took the sprocket cover off to have a look and here are the pics. The sprockets' teeth appear symmetrical, certainly not obviously hooked. The outside of the mechanism could do with some WD40.

I've adjusted the tension a couple of times, once bang on manufacturer spec, same noise, and then a little slacker. It's now on the slack side of things but in spec, especially when it tightens under my weight.

As I rode back, my Mrs' uncle appeared. He services army vehicles or something and rode years back. He thought the chain looked a bit dry, though waxed over, and said to add some oil.

So I'm thinking tomorrow I'll clean the chain really well, get all the wax off, and use an oil instead and see if that helps any. [img][/img]
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Huarachedevil
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PostPosted: 17:16 - 09 Dec 2018    Post subject: Re: YBR 125 Noise as chain rolls over front sprocket Reply with quote

tom_e wrote:
Huarachedevil wrote:
It was bought from the Superbike Factory two weeks back so should be at least okay.


Don't bet on it, they're well known for punting out polished turds.


To be honest, I have this impression too.

Everything sounds great but when you look a little deeper, things can be outright BS (YBR is 2 stroke/they make adjustments on first inspection when it comes in (chain was so tight it was nearly pinging off)).
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Huarachedevil
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PostPosted: 17:18 - 09 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
He's an expert but has left your wheel missaligbed?


He's a bike nut and built a YBR for his daughter.

He said that in essence the alignment marks weren't laser accurate, and a little difference is okay.

I tried to get rid of the difference today and couldn't adjust either at all once the rear axle nut was refastened.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 17:54 - 09 Dec 2018    Post subject: Re: YBR 125 Noise as chain rolls over front sprocket Reply with quote

Huarachedevil wrote:
(YBR is 2 stroke/they make adjustments on first inspection when it comes in (chain was so tight it was nearly pinging off)).


What?
I have a 2011 YBR here I've just done the chain and sprockets on as
well as other jobs and its deffo a 4 stroke.

BTW the old chain was dry as a bone and had stiff links that were noisy as they rolled over the front sprocket

BTW2
the wheels are not aligned per se, there's an offset of around 20-30mm IIRC.
What you want is to get them both parallel to the axis of the bikes frame.
The front wheel is on axis and the rear slightly to the right
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Last edited by WD Forte on 18:03 - 09 Dec 2018; edited 1 time in total
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Huarachedevil
Two Stroke Sniffer



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PostPosted: 18:00 - 09 Dec 2018    Post subject: Re: YBR 125 Noise as chain rolls over front sprocket Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Huarachedevil wrote:
(YBR is 2 stroke/they make adjustments on first inspection when it comes in (chain was so tight it was nearly pinging off)).


What?
I have a 2011 YBR here I've just done the chain and sprockets on as
well as other jobs and its deffo a 4 stroke.

BTW the old chain was dry as a bone and had stiff links that were noisy as they rolled over the front sprocket


With these things, you really want an enthusiast more than a salesperson. They step the wrong side of that for me but I imagine their strategy is higher volume, lower margin per bike, and at their prices (for the 125s I've seen), they will sell.

***

I had a good look round the chain to make sure parts could move and there were no kinks or seized links. I couldn't see any, it looks good to me. But with a super clean and wetter lube hopefully good things will happen.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 09 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Huarachedevil wrote:
Or is it normal and nothing to worry about?

I'd go with this, although a video with sound would help.
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Huarachedevil
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 09 Dec 2018    Post subject: Re: YBR 125 Noise as chain rolls over front sprocket Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Huarachedevil wrote:
(YBR is 2 stroke/they make adjustments on first inspection when it comes in (chain was so tight it was nearly pinging off)).


What?
I have a 2011 YBR here I've just done the chain and sprockets on as
well as other jobs and its deffo a 4 stroke.

BTW the old chain was dry as a bone and had stiff links that were noisy as they rolled over the front sprocket

BTW2
the wheels are not aligned per se, there's an offset of around 20-30mm IIRC.
What you want is to get them both parallel to the axis of the bikes frame.
The front wheel is on axis and the rear slightly to the right


To correct this, can I tighten/slacken the drove chain puller locknut (item two in the picture), and expect that to change the position of the alignment marker, one way or the other until they match? That's what appears to happen in some YouTube videos and a Haynes manual but it isn't crystal clear.[img][/img]
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 20:52 - 09 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slacken number 2, turn it a couple of turns out. This is a locking nut, and prevents movement of number 1, which provides the actual adjustment. Screwing 1 in will tighten the chain, and vice cersa. Make very sure both left and right sides of the wheel are adjusted the same. When happy you have the correct amount of slack (25-35mm from memory, check your Haynes), put a ring spanner on 2, hold one in position with a spanner/socket, and tighten 2.

I repeat - Make sure both sides are adjusted equally, or you're in for some "interesting" times in corners.
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Huarachedevil
Two Stroke Sniffer



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PostPosted: 22:29 - 09 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThatDippyTwat wrote:
Slacken number 2, turn it a couple of turns out. This is a locking nut, and prevents movement of number 1, which provides the actual adjustment. Screwing 1 in will tighten the chain, and vice cersa. Make very sure both left and right sides of the wheel are adjusted the same. When happy you have the correct amount of slack (25-35mm from memory, check your Haynes), put a ring spanner on 2, hold one in position with a spanner/socket, and tighten 2.

I repeat - Make sure both sides are adjusted equally, or you're in for some "interesting" times in corners.


For number two, if I slacken either by much, they become quite loose. I'm not sure what they screw into. And they quickly become quite tight when tightened, worried that if I muscle it, I might break it. That said, it might be the case that if I begin to screw it in to make them match, I should see the alignment mark move?

With most the fasteners, too tight will break the bolts. Is that the case here or can I tighten away until I get a match with the alignment marks? She's handling nicely at the moment.

EDIT

Rereading your post, you're referring to the chain tension. I misread it lol. I'm okay with getting the tension right and the procedure you describe. It's the noise I'm trying to tackle, by hopefully getting the alignment marks in place and/or changing what's on the chain.
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tom_e
Brolly Dolly



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PostPosted: 23:25 - 09 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check your chain for stiff links, these will make noise as they'll skip slightly over the sprocket.
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ThatDippyTwat
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 06:11 - 10 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Huarachedevil wrote:
I'm okay with getting the tension right and the procedure you describe. It's the noise I'm trying to tackle, by hopefully getting the alignment marks in place and/or changing what's on the chain.

If you have too much tension, it'll make a noise. If it's dry or siezed, it'll make a noise. The alignment is adjusted in the same way as your chain tension. First you tension the chain, then you move the other side to match.

Make sure tension is right, align the wheel, and then as said, look for stiff or seized links.
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Huarachedevil
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 01 Dec 2018
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PostPosted: 07:16 - 10 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThatDippyTwat wrote:
Huarachedevil wrote:
I'm okay with getting the tension right and the procedure you describe. It's the noise I'm trying to tackle, by hopefully getting the alignment marks in place and/or changing what's on the chain.

If you have too much tension, it'll make a noise. If it's dry or siezed, it'll make a noise. The alignment is adjusted in the same way as your chain tension. First you tension the chain, then you move the other side to match.

Make sure tension is right, align the wheel, and then as said, look for stiff or seized links.


Thanks for your reply, I'm not fully getting this.

This is what I understand:

Tension the chain, done that.

Now it is tensioned correctly, but the alignment marks don't match (2 left v 3 right), how do I adjust those? If I use the same adjusters that I used for the chain, the chain tension will be out again?
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Tankie
Crazy Courier



Joined: 24 Feb 2017
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PostPosted: 09:48 - 10 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tension the chain , check the wheels are in line, go back and recheck the tension.
If you don't know how to line up the wheels get your local bike mech / mot tester to show you
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Tankie
Crazy Courier



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PostPosted: 09:59 - 10 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tension the chain , check the wheels are in line, go back and recheck the tension.
If you don't know how to line up the wheels get your local bike mech / mot tester to show you
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