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Elektroniker |
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Elektroniker Derestricted Danger
Joined: 16 Dec 2018 Karma :
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Posted: 07:55 - 16 Dec 2018 Post subject: Daytona Sprinter 50cc DIM HEADLIGHT |
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It may be coincidence but after having my 50cc engine replaced with 110cc the headlamp is dim. When I start the engine and flick the headlight on it is bright but dims quite quickly so after about 10 seconds it is merely glowing.
You can see the wiring diagram here:
www.duckpoo.com/temp/Daytona_Sprinter_Wiring.pdf
More info.
The bike starts and runs fine.
The battery is charging at approx. 14 volts.
As you can see from the wiring diagram, the magneto is single-phase and feeds the rectifier/regulator from one winding on a white and yellow wire.
The yellow wire continues to the headlamp switch.
Although I'm an electronics ex-spurt, I can't figure out exactly what is inside the rectifier/regulator unit so I'm stumped as to whether it is faulty - or something else.
Thanks for any suggestions. |
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Tankie |
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Tankie Crazy Courier
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Elektroniker |
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Elektroniker Derestricted Danger
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Elektroniker Derestricted Danger
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Elektroniker Derestricted Danger
Joined: 16 Dec 2018 Karma :
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Posted: 09:37 - 17 Dec 2018 Post subject: |
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I managed to squeeze the bike inside my tiny workshop. Too windy to work outside. You can see the results of my tests here:
https://youtu.be/GRGPSvt9ILI
Note that a voltmeter reading would have been meaningless or at least difficult to interpret. A multimeter is designed to measure either pure DC or pure sinewave AC. The headlamp feed is neither. It's like a sinewave but with 2/3 missing!
So I used an oscilloscope to view the exact waveform. I monitored the voltage from the single-phase magneto between yellow and green (chassis) at the regulator with engine speed around 3500 rpm. Oscilloscope set to 10 volts per cm (graduation). With no load the waveform is dirty AC going up to about 45v peak-to-peak. With lights on you can see a half-wave rectified sinewave at about 40v peak-to-peak. However, it's not a true sinewave as the mark/space ratio is about 1:3. With headlight on (35W) we see a cleaner half-wave rectified sinewave of about 15 volts peak and a mark/space ratio of about 1:2.
If you view the video at around 1:20 you can see how dim the "sidelight" bulb is. The headlight is equally dim, although you can't really tell in the video.
(The misfire is a separate problem - I think!)
Link to images: https://www.DuckPoo.com/daytona/
Last edited by Elektroniker on 11:05 - 17 Dec 2018; edited 1 time in total |
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Elektroniker Derestricted Danger
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Elektroniker Derestricted Danger
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Elektroniker Derestricted Danger
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Posted: 13:46 - 20 Dec 2018 Post subject: |
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December 20, 2018 update:
I measured the battery voltage with the engine idling and it was around 13 volts, rising to 14.8 volts at 3500 rpm.
With headlight switched on (still dim) the battery voltage still measured above 14 volts. Makes no sense to me but I decided that the magneto is certainly good enough to charge the battery.
I modified the wiring, disconnecting the yellow (unregulated) lighting feed from the regulator output and connecting it to the red (regulated) output from the regulator, which goes directly to battery positive.
Lights work fine but battery voltage is around 12.5 volts even with lights off. I'm confused! I'm going to leave it like this and see if the battery maintains its charge and hoping that the regulator doesn't die with the additional load of around 45 Watts (4 Amps).
Updated this page:
https://www.DuckPoo.com/daytona/ |
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Elektroniker Derestricted Danger
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Elektroniker Derestricted Danger
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Posted: 17:15 - 18 Jan 2019 Post subject: |
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I modified the wiring again, fitted a tiny digital voltmeter and an LED headlight bulb. The latter is rated at only 6 Watts so it takes around 0.5 Amps of current (compared with the original 35W filament bulb that takes about 3 Amps).
Result is a MUCH whiter, brighter headlight beam and the battery still charges nicely at cruising speed.
Updated this page:
https://www.DuckPoo.com/daytona/
I still have a new regulator on order and a selection of LED headlight bulbs but the current setup seems OK. So I'll run it for a while and decide whether it's adequate before making any more changes.
I hope that this investigation/experimentation helps others. According to the dealer, all the small "Daytona" bikes have the "dim headlight" problem.
However, I suspect that you (Tankie) are correct and there's a hidden shunt regulator on the yellow wire and it is faulty. That reminds me, I should disconnect the yellow wire altogether, since it's no longer required and that hidden shunt regulator seems to be sucking power for no reason.
Oh, one more point: after I did the last wiring modification, there was a strong smell of burning insulation for the first kilometre. I removed covers and didn't find any melted wires so it's a mystery. (Maybe the hidden shunt regulator finally fried itself?) |
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Elektroniker Derestricted Danger
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Posted: 22:30 - 19 Jan 2019 Post subject: |
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I've solved the "burning insulation" smell that I mentioned. A fixing lug had broken off the plastic bodywork so (unbeknown to me because I always mount from the left) it was flapping loose and was intermittently touching the exhaust pipe close to the engine!
I added a couple of extra screws to secure it. Thankfully, only a tiny bit of plastic had actually melted and isn't visible from the outside.
As for the regulator, the mystery deepens. As the yellow wire from the regulator is no longer connected to the lighting switch, I disconnected it close to the regulator. The result was that the battery voltage never rose above 12.5 volts!
So I reconnected the two sections of yellow wire and now the battery voltage has gone back to varying anywhere up to 15.2 volts. I've had to leave it like that for now, otherwise the battery won't charge. But I'll definitely fit the new regulator when it arrives.
Another fault that I had was that the "TOP" gear telltale lit in 1st gear, not 4th. The mechanic had connected pink to pink from the gearbox, assuming that this was correct. I found three unused wires exiting the gearbox and measured their resistance to ground as I changed gear. I have labelled them 2, 3 and 4.
I connected "4" to the pink wire for "TOP" so now I can tell that I'm in 4th gear at a glance. (The bike is still geared for a 50cc engine so I'm continually trying to change up! I'll change the sprockets eventually.)
Also, when I get around to it, I'll extend the three numbered wires to the speedometer housing and I'll fit LEDs for all the gears, just for fun.
My bedtime now. Greece is 2 hours ahead of the UK.
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Elektroniker Derestricted Danger
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Posted: 11:26 - 11 Feb 2019 Post subject: |
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The new regulator finally arrived from China. I mounted it on a piece of aluminium with a bridge rectifier and two 4700uF capacitors. Everything seems to work perfectly! Even with the lights on, it provides a constant 13.8 volts, except at very low revs.
See photo at the bottom of this page:
https://www.DuckPoo.com/daytona/ |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 5 years, 75 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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