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Daytona 600 hot running wrong idle when hot and oil pressure

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khanmurtaza
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 24 Dec 2018
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 24 Dec 2018    Post subject: Daytona 600 hot running wrong idle when hot and oil pressure Reply with quote

Hi guys,
Its winter in UK. I am sure you have heard it all before but i fail to understand the logic that Triumph Daytona 600 runs hot. At 20-30 mph the temp stays 85C / 185F, when at traffic signal or stop traffic it jumps to 103C / 217.4F in literally a minute, fan kicks in and temp start climbing down after going a few degree above i.e. 105C / 221F. If I stay at stop traffic temperature keeps going between 100 - 105 C due to fan. Bike idles abnormally at over 95C / 203F so I have keep the revs up to keep it from turning off. I hate this hot running and the fact that bike idles abnormally. Destroys the pleasure of riding.
Now very infrequent but once in a while oil pressure light comes one (oil indicator blinking) and goes away at higher revs. I have recycled coolant, also made sure that there is no air in the system. Coolant reservoir looses a bit of coolant every few hundred miles but I am convinced that it comes out of the overflow hose.
There is no oil residue in cooland, nor do I suspect coolant in oil. Oil level is normal too.
I last changed the oil 1000 miles ago with a good set of filter and Castrol Oil. Alternator also failed a few hundred miles ago and I suspect that it was due to hot running of the bike.
I love the bike but loosing my interest due to this hot running.
I suspected a poor water pump but now due to oil pressure light I am suspecting oil pump. Can someone please help. I have seen people recommending oil pressure sensor but I dont think thats the issue because of hot running in winter, temp climbing up in minutes and also a pressure warning.
Can someone also please advise on what things i need to buy to properly connect a presure gauge and also instructions to connect an oil pressure gauge to a triumph daytona 600 (2004).
I have bought a Kawasaki Z1000sx (2011) but i still love this bike and want to keep it for tracks as the fairings are slightly cracked and due to this issue I dont think I will get more than £1000 for it.
Please help.
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 13:41 - 24 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

My first thought is that this bike has been seriously mistreated in the past. Run for a long time with no servicing. Oil possibly topped up but not changed, plain tap water in the cooling system, that sort of thing.

Oil pressure first. I'm assuming the oil pressure light is occasionally coming on at idle revs when the engine is hot. If you're lucky, it means your oil pressure sensor is faulty - so change that first. If you're unlucky, it means your oil pump is faulty. If you're really unlucky, it means your crank is fucked.

You can bodge it to make the light go away by putting in some thicker oil, but it doesn't fix the problem. Fixing the problem is probably more than the bike is worth.

Coolant temperature next. Working on the basis that the bike has been neglected in the past, I would expect the engine and radiator to be plugged up with shit inside and out.
Take the radiator off the bike, clean it, straighten out the fins if they are bent so air can go through it. Then flush it through with a garden hose. If a lot of crap comes out of it, that's a good thing - it means its getting better. I tend to flush both ways, at least 5 minutes in each direction.
Flush the engine too, in the same way. You may need to remove the thermostat for this to work.
Finish by putting it all back together and filling up with the right mix of coolant, and bleeding.

On the neglect theme, it never hurts to change the spark plugs. If they have been in there for years, they could be totally worn out, to the point of ceramic insulation breaking off inside the combustion chamber. That's not something you want to happen.

Finally, this is a UK based forum, so no need to quote Fahrenheit.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 14:07 - 24 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

These bikes do run hot I have a speed four which is basically the same thing.

I was told by a Triumph tech that as long as it stays under 120 you are fine!

Mine has seen 112 in Normal usage during the summer.

From what I remember mine would regarly see 104. I actually used some software called tune ecu to change the temp the fan kicks in to 100.

Re oil pressure first thing, I'm fairly sure I'm right in saying what you are describing is the oil level not pressure, oil pressure is a red LED near where the engine warning light (orange LED) is you should see it light up when the ignition is on and the bike isn't running. The oil symbol on bit of the dash where the ODO is is oil level. Cheeck the oil level. Read the manual on how, I can't remember if it is with the dip stick screwed in or screwed out, I have a feeling it is screwed in which is odd.

If you are seeing the red oil pressure light it could be that the oil is bent it is the little peice of metal bolted in with the engine cover on the RHS if it gets too close to the switch it can short it out and cause false readings.

I don't think you have a cooling problem, and you may be able to sort the oil thing with a top up. Good luck.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 14:15 - 24 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

As for the Idle, Have you changed the plugs and air filter? Other than that is is fairly difficult to seat the airbox on the ITB's I wouldn't be suprised if it is loose/ not on properly.

Investigate Tune ECU BTW great bit of software, can read any codes and flash a new tune on to it!
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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khanmurtaza
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 24 Dec 2018
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PostPosted: 00:01 - 03 Jan 2019    Post subject: Re: Daytona 600 hot running wrong idle when hot and oil pres Reply with quote

khanmurtaza wrote:
Hi guys,
Its winter in UK. I am sure you have heard it all before but i fail to understand the logic that Triumph Daytona 600 runs hot. At 20-30 mph the temp stays 85C / 185F, when at traffic signal or stop traffic it jumps to 103C / 217.4F in literally a minute, fan kicks in and temp start climbing down after going a few degree above i.e. 105C / 221F. If I stay at stop traffic temperature keeps going between 100 - 105 C due to fan. Bike idles abnormally at over 95C / 203F so I have keep the revs up to keep it from turning off. I hate this hot running and the fact that bike idles abnormally. Destroys the pleasure of riding.
Now very infrequent but once in a while oil pressure light comes one (oil indicator blinking) and goes away at higher revs. I have recycled coolant, also made sure that there is no air in the system. Coolant reservoir looses a bit of coolant every few hundred miles but I am convinced that it comes out of the overflow hose.
There is no oil residue in cooland, nor do I suspect coolant in oil. Oil level is normal too.
I last changed the oil 1000 miles ago with a good set of filter and Castrol Oil. Alternator also failed a few hundred miles ago and I suspect that it was due to hot running of the bike.
I love the bike but loosing my interest due to this hot running.
I suspected a poor water pump but now due to oil pressure light I am suspecting oil pump. Can someone please help. I have seen people recommending oil pressure sensor but I dont think thats the issue because of hot running in winter, temp climbing up in minutes and also a pressure warning.
Can someone also please advise on what things i need to buy to properly connect a presure gauge and also instructions to connect an oil pressure gauge to a triumph daytona 600 (2004).
I have bought a Kawasaki Z1000sx (2011) but i still love this bike and want to keep it for tracks as the fairings are slightly cracked and due to this issue I dont think I will get more than £1000 for it.
Please help.


Just an update guys that I started the bike and let it idle till operating temperature was around 70C but the red oil light was still on and the other oil indicator kept on blinking even at slightly higher reps.
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khanmurtaza
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 24 Dec 2018
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PostPosted: 00:10 - 03 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
My first thought is that this bike has been seriously mistreated in the past. Run for a long time with no servicing. Oil possibly topped up but not changed, plain tap water in the cooling system, that sort of thing.

Oil pressure first. I'm assuming the oil pressure light is occasionally coming on at idle revs when the engine is hot. If you're lucky, it means your oil pressure sensor is faulty - so change that first. If you're unlucky, it means your oil pump is faulty. If you're really unlucky, it means your crank is fucked.

You can bodge it to make the light go away by putting in some thicker oil, but it doesn't fix the problem. Fixing the problem is probably more than the bike is worth.

Coolant temperature next. Working on the basis that the bike has been neglected in the past, I would expect the engine and radiator to be plugged up with shit inside and out.
Take the radiator off the bike, clean it, straighten out the fins if they are bent so air can go through it. Then flush it through with a garden hose. If a lot of crap comes out of it, that's a good thing - it means its getting better. I tend to flush both ways, at least 5 minutes in each direction.
Flush the engine too, in the same way. You may need to remove the thermostat for this to work.
Finish by putting it all back together and filling up with the right mix of coolant, and bleeding.

On the neglect theme, it never hurts to change the spark plugs. If they have been in there for years, they could be totally worn out, to the point of ceramic insulation breaking off inside the combustion chamber. That's not something you want to happen.

Finally, this is a UK based forum, so no need to quote Fahrenheit.

Thanks for your detailed reply robby. It may have been treated badly but since I have owned it for over a year now I have only probably ridden it 2000 miles and have already changes oil, filter, and coolant atleast twice. So it only happened once around six months after I purchased it then went away but now even at operating temperature and at slightly higher revs oil light (red) and the other oil warning blinking is carrying on. I have not taken it out on the road since this issue to avoid further damage. I have add thicker oil already to avoid funny idling at high temps but nothing changed.
I have not changed the spark plugs as the last time I tried to upgrade to iridium the bike was seriously misfiring, maybe just a faulty plug. Plugs looked fine about 1000 miles ago but I can change them. Will also try the radiator flush and clean if this oil issue gets sorted.
Gutted as I really love the ride. I have ridden a lot of bikes but love the way it handles.
So a million $ question is, shall I try and change the pump and sensor see what happens? I was hoping that its the pump as I have heard that faulty pump also exacerbates the hot running of a bike?
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khanmurtaza
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 24 Dec 2018
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PostPosted: 00:14 - 03 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
These bikes do run hot I have a speed four which is basically the same thing.

I was told by a Triumph tech that as long as it stays under 120 you are fine!

Mine has seen 112 in Normal usage during the summer.

From what I remember mine would regarly see 104. I actually used some software called tune ecu to change the temp the fan kicks in to 100.

Re oil pressure first thing, I'm fairly sure I'm right in saying what you are describing is the oil level not pressure, oil pressure is a red LED near where the engine warning light (orange LED) is you should see it light up when the ignition is on and the bike isn't running. The oil symbol on bit of the dash where the ODO is is oil level. Cheeck the oil level. Read the manual on how, I can't remember if it is with the dip stick screwed in or screwed out, I have a feeling it is screwed in which is odd.

If you are seeing the red oil pressure light it could be that the oil is bent it is the little peice of metal bolted in with the engine cover on the RHS if it gets too close to the switch it can short it out and cause false readings.

I don't think you have a cooling problem, and you may be able to sort the oil thing with a top up. Good luck.

Hi Mate so the red light is also on unfortunately. This hot running i would be ok with but when its hot I have to keep the revs high when stationary to keep the bike from dying and I hate it. I really hate it. Takes the fun out of riding having to keep an eye on that bloody temp reading all the time. I also get nervous that something will break.
I will change the sensor and then pump if the oil light goes off then first clean the radiator, fix the fins as Robby suggested. I will then use Tune ECU to bring the fan kick in to around 95C. fingers crossed.
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khanmurtaza
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 24 Dec 2018
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PostPosted: 00:16 - 03 Jan 2019    Post subject: Re: Daytona 600 hot running wrong idle when hot and oil pres Reply with quote

khanmurtaza wrote:
khanmurtaza wrote:
Hi guys,
Its winter in UK. I am sure you have heard it all before but i fail to understand the logic that Triumph Daytona 600 runs hot. At 20-30 mph the temp stays 85C / 185F, when at traffic signal or stop traffic it jumps to 103C / 217.4F in literally a minute, fan kicks in and temp start climbing down after going a few degree above i.e. 105C / 221F. If I stay at stop traffic temperature keeps going between 100 - 105 C due to fan. Bike idles abnormally at over 95C / 203F so I have keep the revs up to keep it from turning off. I hate this hot running and the fact that bike idles abnormally. Destroys the pleasure of riding.
Now very infrequent but once in a while oil pressure light comes one (oil indicator blinking) and goes away at higher revs. I have recycled coolant, also made sure that there is no air in the system. Coolant reservoir looses a bit of coolant every few hundred miles but I am convinced that it comes out of the overflow hose.
There is no oil residue in cooland, nor do I suspect coolant in oil. Oil level is normal too.
I last changed the oil 1000 miles ago with a good set of filter and Castrol Oil. Alternator also failed a few hundred miles ago and I suspect that it was due to hot running of the bike.
I love the bike but loosing my interest due to this hot running.
I suspected a poor water pump but now due to oil pressure light I am suspecting oil pump. Can someone please help. I have seen people recommending oil pressure sensor but I dont think thats the issue because of hot running in winter, temp climbing up in minutes and also a pressure warning.
Can someone also please advise on what things i need to buy to properly connect a presure gauge and also instructions to connect an oil pressure gauge to a triumph daytona 600 (2004).
I have bought a Kawasaki Z1000sx (2011) but i still love this bike and want to keep it for tracks as the fairings are slightly cracked and due to this issue I dont think I will get more than £1000 for it.
Please help.


Just an update guys that I started the bike and let it idle till operating temperature was around 70C but the red oil light was still on and the other oil indicator kept on blinking even at slightly higher reps.

Changed the air filter but not the plugs. But after this pressure things gets sorted and dealing with the radiator I will also change the plugs. Any idea why iridium plugs are making bike misfire? faulty plug?
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 18:23 - 03 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well it could just be misfiring because the whole bike is fucked.

If the oil pressure light flashes when the bike is due a service, on a hot engine, on a very hot day, at tickover - so when the oil is thinnest and the engine is hottest - it's a serious problem.

If the oil pressure light also comes on when everything is cold, at more than idle, that means it's really fucked.

Chris mentioned something about checking the sensor, but it looks like he missed a word or two in his explanation. Sentence doesn't make sense. Check/fix the oil pressure sensor first.

If you still have no oil pressure, it isn't just a case of replacing the oil pump. Usually no oil pressure means your crank is fucked. It's a very expensive and involved job to repair or replace, to the point that its cheaper to buy a good used engine.

So hopefully its the sensor.
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