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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 10:11 - 22 Dec 2018    Post subject: Paint protection products Reply with quote

Hi all,
This question applies to both brand new paint/clearcoat & old paint which has been thoroughly degreased & cleaned, so there's NO protective coating on what so ever.

What products anyone recommend BEFORE polishes/wax etc

What do car detailers or paintshops use?

I have my own compressor, guns masks etc


cheers,
GAZ
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 00:10 - 24 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

What would be the point of putting anything on it before you polish it? that's just going to remove it.

You clean it.
You polish it
You wax it.

That's it.
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 13:31 - 24 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
What would be the point of putting anything on it before you polish it? that's just going to remove it.

You clean it.
You polish it
You wax it.

That's it.


Hi,
What about Optimum Car Wax which is what UK detailers & paintshops are recommending?

It's for, say a metal fuel tank thats been washed thoroughly with hot soapy water, removing any old wax, taking it right back to clearcoat.

AND for puting on top of freshly cured clearcoat.

This is Scotland we are talking about, it rains 5 days a week all year round. The other 2 days it's snowing 😀

As an example, i just washed a fuel tank & within 2hrs it started to rust so i had to bring it onto the house & stick it in the spare room.

Cheers,
GAZ
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A100man
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PostPosted: 20:32 - 24 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

stirlinggaz wrote:

As an example, i just washed a fuel tank & within 2hrs it started to rust so i had to bring it onto the house & stick it in the spare room.

Cheers,
GAZ


Eh? A painted tank or bare metal? If it's painted then the paint must be mighty porous (e.g primer) or scratched for that to happen..
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grr666
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 24 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clear vinyl wrap?
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 02:36 - 25 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

detailing wise its usually wash it, IPA if needed to strip old wax etc and then decontaminate the surface to remove any iron etc, followed by a caly bar to remove any other contaminates then polish it to smooth the top coat or paint....then wax and lastly add a ceramic coating to seal it all in. have a youtube for forensic car detailing etc for good product reviews
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 10:00 - 25 Dec 2018    Post subject: Update Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
stirlinggaz wrote:

As an example, i just washed a fuel tank & within 2hrs it started to rust so i had to bring it onto the house & stick it in the spare room.

Cheers,
GAZ


Eh? A painted tank or bare metal? If it's painted then the paint must be mighty porous (e.g primer) or scratched for that to happen..


Hi,
It's original paint from new.
It's a 90's bike so a bit scratched here & there but not wrecked by any means.

EDIT : I forgot to add, the flat base of the tank looks like it is just bare metal as it's not same as top of tank.

HOWEVER being flat bottomed, it developed a light coat of rust VERY quickly & I don't want the seams to rot.

That's why I want to coat it with something all over, including the flat bottom (oooh err) as it's a bit of the tank that often gets neglected when cleaning & polishing.
So thought I would treat it now BEFORE it goes back on the bike.

Hope that clears things up a bit.

Cheers,
GAZ


Last edited by stirlinggaz on 15:10 - 25 Dec 2018; edited 1 time in total
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 10:06 - 25 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

grr666 wrote:
Clear vinyl wrap?

Hi,
Never tried it BUT it's on my list of things to try
but not on a curvy fuel tank on my 1st attempt.

Although a sheet of vinyl wrap on the bottom of the tank (the unseen bit) seems like a good idea.
Anyone disagree?

Cheers,
GAZ
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 10:13 - 25 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

bladerunner wrote:
have a youtube for forensic car detailing etc for good product reviews

Hi,
Started doing that & 1st couple recommended that optimum car wax.
Take into consideration any products I need to buy will probably need to be bought online as live quite rural.

Cheers,
GAZ
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grr666
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PostPosted: 10:41 - 25 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://bodyguarduk.com/product/

Not a fake website despite the rather funny and ironic name. Thumbs Up
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 15:04 - 25 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

grr666 wrote:
https://bodyguarduk.com/product/

Not a fake website despite the rather funny and ironic name. Thumbs Up


Hi,
Good suggestion but can't find any reference to whether it can be applied over NEW paint .
I'll watch the video again & read all the info properly later.

And I can see it being expensive & tricky to apply if you've never done any wrapping before (I havnt)

That's why I was looking for something I can spray on or rub on with microfiber cloth or whatever.
Thanks though Thumbs Up

cheers,
GAZ
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Soggz
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PostPosted: 10:55 - 03 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

stirlinggaz wrote:
grr666 wrote:
Clear vinyl wrap?

Hi,
Never tried it BUT it's on my list of things to try
but not on a curvy fuel tank on my 1st attempt.

Although a sheet of vinyl wrap on the bottom of the tank (the unseen bit) seems like a good idea.
Anyone disagree?

Cheers,
GAZ
seems like a very good idea, provided the edges are sealed.
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 03 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Soggz wrote:
Clear vinyl seems like a very good idea, provided the edges are sealed.


Hi,
Sealed with what?
Any ideas?

cheers,
GAZ
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Analogkid
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PostPosted: 22:35 - 03 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk

All things paint prep and protection, they have a blog and a forum (links bottom of page)

I buy the stuff for my car and bike from Tim, and you allways get speedy delivery and a handwritten thank you note.

Some products are quite pricey, and some Carnuba waxes run into thousands, but they have a great range and good advice, for the bike I buy the DodoJuice samples, purple haze and the banana one are superb, you only need to apply to hands, then caress the paint, in summer bugs just wash off without trouble, a sample tub will last a year or two, perhaps more if only used on a bike, a sample will do 3-5 cars. Lots of advice and ‘how toos' on the site too.

Ps if using a high quality wax, you'll only need to reapply two or three times a year, if you are going to polish, you'll need a machine, plus pads, and for a bike a set of small pads and their mandrel will make it a lot easier, there are rotary and dual action, the second is better for a novice as it won't burn the paint, besides the rotary ones are better suited to bigger areas, Tim is usually happy to take calls/emails, and his advice is honest
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 00:09 - 04 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you got any information that suggests or proves that not all Carnuba waxes are not equal or satisfactory?

I've got some triple wax Carnuba wax for treating mostly the powder coated frame parts on my KMX. I use Maguires and Autoglym stuff for car bodywork and plastics usually. But I don't see the point in going full anal/expensive for a protection coating on hidden parts.

Ive just enamel painted and baked my cylinder heads in the oven, so I'm going to give the head and cylinder a coat of wax before fitting as pointless as it is on parts that will get hot.

Im just suspicious in the world of detailing that there's alot of willy waving and Bullshit about various products and must haves or else you might as well not bother kind of thinking.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 00:16 - 04 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

It can get a bit pious in detaling circles. My advice is use what works for you. I like Poorboys products myself. There are one or
two items I always have in stock from that range. You either get it or you don't. Besides, you'll never convince a sponge wielding
animal they are wrong so there's no point trying. Just try some stuff and see what works. Tons of good advice out there but no
subsitute for having a go. I have used cleanyourcar for years. Well worth a look. Thumbs Up
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Last edited by grr666 on 01:53 - 04 Jan 2019; edited 1 time in total
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struan80
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PostPosted: 00:19 - 04 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you guys spray ACF50 or similar on your paintwork? I've got the bike covered everywhere with a view to washing the bike next spring only. I was told this by a guy with a larger beard than myself.
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Analogkid
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PostPosted: 01:19 - 04 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevo as b4 wrote:
Have you got any information that suggests or proves that not all Carnuba waxes are not equal or satisfactory?


Different types and concentrations of wax to other things in the blend, liquid products dont contain much carnuba wax, this is hard at room temp, they then blend it with other things, but it’s the wax that forms a hard coat, coating your tank can help avoid scratches from zips etc, I personally am not into detailing, I use my buffer on small areas mostly, but I coat my vehicles in wax about twice a year, easier to keep them clean.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 01:40 - 04 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just out of interest then, what's your thoughts on silicone products?

On my cars and bikes I have always washed and clayed them 1-2times a year and then used something like high definition wax Polish. But between waxes, I have always generally washed and dried the bodywork and applied XGP silicone to the paint before buffing it off. Its always left a good shine and is far quicker to use than a wax product.

Im one of those that will never join pro detailing forums, as if I want a car really well detailed or any paint correction etc, then I'd rather pay a few £££ every couple of years for a professional job by someone who has all the gear and knows exactly what to do.

I also think any form of polishing and car care is better than those people who just bang their car through a car wash every couple of weeks. Even if they use that watery turtle wax or similar products on an old dusting cloth etc.
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Analogkid
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PostPosted: 02:14 - 04 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevo as b4 wrote:
Just out of interest then, what's your thoughts on silicone products?

On my cars and bikes I have always washed and clayed them 1-2times a year and then used something like high definition wax Polish. But between waxes, I have always generally washed and dried the bodywork and applied XGP silicone to the paint before buffing it off. Its always left a good shine and is far quicker to use than a wax product.

Im one of those that will never join pro detailing forums, as if I want a car really well detailed or any paint correction etc, then I'd rather pay a few £££ every couple of years for a professional job by someone who has all the gear and knows exactly what to do.

I also think any form of polishing and car care is better than those people who just bang their car through a car wash every couple of weeks. Even if they use that watery turtle wax or similar products on an old dusting cloth etc.


No idea on silicone products mate, never tried them, as I said I’m not into detailing, just keeping my paintwork in reasonable state with little effort. I use snowfoam if really mucky, and leave it for a while, then rinse, then wash, by hand, then rinse, if wheels are reasonable I use Iron Fallout (trolls breath) and if really bad, wonder wheels. I dry the paintwork too.

I agree that car washes are terrible, if you must use a hand car wash or a jetwash, avoid the spinning brushes.
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rpsmith79
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PostPosted: 08:59 - 04 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its really not that difficult

Polishes remove material, so when using a polish, it will remove the high spots and soften the edges of any major scratches, making them harder to see under normal conditions, to fully remove a scratch, you need a rubbing compound type polish and a machine polisher, just be careful not to burn through your paint if it is thin

Waxes/Sealants add material, so once waxed/sealed with either a natural (carnuba wax) or synthetic sealant, these will add a layer of protection to the paintwork, protecting all the hard work you put in polishing out the imperfections. You can also layer wax/sealants, so once one coat is on and fully set/dried, you can apply multiple coats over the top to add additional layers of protection

Stay away from Polishing waxes, as they simply cannot work, as 1 product cannot remove and add material in 1 hit, or at least not very effectively, always use separate products

If you want high shine, use Carnuba wax, but expect to reapply every few weeks to keep the protection level up

If you want long lasting protection, so synthetic sealant, these are generally much easier to apply as well


And don't get me started on hand car washes, they wash you car with traffic film remover, which strips all the wax and polish off, making your car initially look very clean, but it will soon turn to shit as with little to no protection for your paintwork, you vehicle will look loppy again very soon, and guess what, you take it back to get cleaned again.........

And the amount of times i have seen them drop a sponge on the floor and pick it straight back up and carry on washing the paintwork, all those lovely bits of grit and dirt and soapy water, makes for a lovely swirly paint finish Sad
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