Volumetric concrete delivery/cost.

[Riejufixing]

I'm considering having 3 cubic metres of C20 concrete delivered, pumped, distance from road to site about 25 metres. Buckinghamshire. Anyone here got any experience of such things?

The alternative is to have about 7 bags of ballast and 38 bags of cement delivered, my guess £450, barrow it the distance, and chuck it through my cement mixer.... ugh. I'd rather hear someone talk about pumped volumetric concrete.

Hm?

[doggone]

Generally a part load will cost more per cubic metre, been doing a fair bit here the past year and 6 cubic metres are about £750
You will likely find the cost is similar to buying the stuff and borrowing or hiring a mixer.
In other words you are paying for convenience with readymix.

On the other hand dealing with a lot of concrete in a short time is not for the faint hearted.
Things can go wrong like shuttering moving or mucking up the calculation.
3 cubic metres is not a lot to do by hand and you needn't be rushed.
Depends how fit you are and who you have to help.

[Pete.]

I wouldn't like to hand batch and lay 3 cubes, that's 7 tonnes of concrete.

OP: why are you choosing C20? Not a very strong mix.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Pete.]

I wouldn't like to hand batch and lay 3 cubes, that's 7 tonnes of concrete.

OP: why are you choosing C20? Not a very strong mix.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Riejufixing]

[Pete.]

We have it delivered by volumetric mixer all the time, though not with the integrated pump, never even seen one of those.

First consideration is that those wagons are VERY heavy - over 40 tonnes and they have a high ground loading because they are very squat. Just look at the tyres on the one in the video. They'll sink the pavement, collapse drains and get stuck in even medium ground so consider the access very carefully if you're going to use one.

Dunno how happy Northvale would be with that video showing them running suspended hoses across a public footway AND washing them down into a watercourse. That's a big no-no.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Riejufixing]

[Pete.]

Not many suppliers will have the pump integrated, they'll tell you that you have to hire a pump (which is another big lorry plus operator and a good few hundred quid for half a day). I don't know of any anyway.

Laying 3 cubes as a slab you're going to need joints anyway so don't worry about that.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Riejufixing]

[Raffles]

[syl]

Been there, done that. It's not that difficult but it does give you a decent workout. Here's a picture - there's another pallet off camera. I had to move it 50m - I decided to barrow it after mixing.

https://www.amigo.co.uk/obsy/10.JPG
____________________
Current bike: Kawasaki Z750S

[Pete.]

[Riejufixing]

[Pete.]

If you're confident that the ground is stable enough for the slab to go right on it then why not but don't even think about putting it down without a DPM. 1000GSM black poly or similar. If you have to lap it be generous with the overlap.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/capital-valley-plastics-ltd-damp-proof-membrane-black-1000ga-4-x-15m/22842
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Riejufixing]

[Pete.]

DPM is for under the slab to isolate the slab from the ground during curing and afterwards. No need for any other membrane so long as your ground level outside is all below the slab level.

If your garage is 6x5 then 6.1x5.1 is not big enough. Add at least 250mm each way IMHO and be very sure you have it staked out square.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Riejufixing]

[Pete.]

[Diggs]

Because some of it is being dug in to the slope, the best way of doing it may be to dig out an area larger than you think you need, then retain the exposed verticals with blockwork. You can then lay your slab with finished floor level a few mm above the ground on the elevation containing the doors. I'd fill the gap between the retaining element and the slab with gravel because it drains well.

Alternatively, to avoid having to pour extra concrete for your retaining element, you could go for a bigger slab and build your blockwork straight off it. Depends how much you have to do....

One thing to watch - irrespective of whether the building itself needs planning permission, if the Council finds out that you have plant on site (even a Bobcat), it can describe the works as an 'engineering operation' which needs planning permission by virtue of this alone. In all discussions with the Council, be it Planning or Building Control, say that you will be hand-digging....
____________________
Now - Speed Triple, old ratty GS550, GSXR750M
Gone (in order of ownership) - Raleigh Runabout, AP50, KH125, GP125, KH250, CBX550, Z400, CB750FII, 250LC, GS550, ZXR750H1, Guzzi Targa, GSX750F, KH250 x2, Bimota SB6R and counting...

[MCN]