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Soggz
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Joined: 13 Oct 2018
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PostPosted: 21:51 - 28 Dec 2018    Post subject: BMW K75C question Reply with quote

Hi, picked up a k bike a few months ago,now Xmas is over,I have made a start on it. Wired it up to a battery to check fuel pump. Knackered. Luckily,I have another which works,needs new rubber anti vibration thing around it turned to tar,need a new one,which I have ordered. Now.
Fuel rail,injectors,e.t.c...
Shall I just put the new pump and filter back in the tank with clean,fresh fuel and just see if it starts?,or should I go through with removing the fuel rail and injectors and cleaning them,or just see what happens?
I 'blew' the rail out in situ,by using an air line down the fuel pipe of the fuel rail,so that it came out of the other pipe.(the two pipes next to each other on the left hand side of the tank.). Fuel blew out of it,I then flush the rail again with clean fuel,then blew it through again. Dunno if it will help or not.
Any advice would be helpful.
Thanks.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 22:40 - 28 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I suggest you get them all cleaned and tested with a pro.
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Soggz
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PostPosted: 23:00 - 28 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
I suggest you get them all cleaned and tested with a pro.
ok,noted. Don't think I should just go ahead with it then? I know what you mean though,as everything is drained down and empty.
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TheSmiler
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PostPosted: 07:52 - 30 Dec 2018    Post subject: Re: BMW K75C question Reply with quote

Soggz wrote:
Hi, picked up a k bike a few months ago,now Xmas is over,I have made a start on it. Wired it up to a battery to check fuel pump. Knackered. Luckily,I have another which works,needs new rubber anti vibration thing around it turned to tar,need a new one,which I have ordered. Now.
Fuel rail,injectors,e.t.c...
Shall I just put the new pump and filter back in the tank with clean,fresh fuel and just see if it starts?,or should I go through with removing the fuel rail and injectors and cleaning them,or just see what happens?
I 'blew' the rail out in situ,by using an air line down the fuel pipe of the fuel rail,so that it came out of the other pipe.(the two pipes next to each other on the left hand side of the tank.). Fuel blew out of it,I then flush the rail again with clean fuel,then blew it through again. Dunno if it will help or not.
Any advice would be helpful.
Thanks.


Get the new tank sorted, attach it all together and press the starter button. If you hear a whirl from the tank you know the pump is working. To double check you can take the hose off the tank petcock (easier) and attach another to it and the end into a container. Press the starter button. You should get fuel coming through if the fuel pump is working.

Right then if that is working move further down check the spark plugs make sure they are sparking. You can put easy start or petrol down the spark plug hole and see if she starts up. However you have to remember that these earth through the starter motor plus 3 other points on the bike.

One is on the left hand side just below the Brain attached to the frame, the second is under the tank middle upper frame tube. Third is behind the air box. Depending if the fairing is on you have to remove the right hand side fairing for the one behind the air box. Then remove the two 6mm bolts that hold the air pipe on, detach the snap brackets on the air box and pull the air box top part off. You will see the earth attached onto the back of the fuel rail.

I mentioned the starter motor these earth through the starter motor so any electrical problems can be related normally back to here. You can simply remove the starter motor mark it up with a permanent marker then take it apart. You can actually reverse the polarity of these starter motors so they spin backwards.

With the starter motor cleaned up, fresh fuel, spark at the plugs and coils working. If you still have no go then I'd look at your electrics side of things. Could be loose connection on the brain one of the pins.

No point getting the fuel injectors cleaned at this point proffesionally anyway.
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Soggz
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Joined: 13 Oct 2018
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PostPosted: 15:30 - 30 Dec 2018    Post subject: Re: BMW K75C question Reply with quote

TheSmiler wrote:
Soggz wrote:
Hi, picked up a k bike a few months ago,now Xmas is over,I have made a start on it. Wired it up to a battery to check fuel pump. Knackered. Luckily,I have another which works,needs new rubber anti vibration thing around it turned to tar,need a new one,which I have ordered. Now.
Fuel rail,injectors,e.t.c...
Shall I just put the new pump and filter back in the tank with clean,fresh fuel and just see if it starts?,or should I go through with removing the fuel rail and injectors and cleaning them,or just see what happens?
I 'blew' the rail out in situ,by using an air line down the fuel pipe of the fuel rail,so that it came out of the other pipe.(the two pipes next to each other on the left hand side of the tank.). Fuel blew out of it,I then flush the rail again with clean fuel,then blew it through again. Dunno if it will help or not.
Any advice would be helpful.
Thanks.


Get the new tank sorted, attach it all together and press the starter button. If you hear a whirl from the tank you know the pump is working. To double check you can take the hose off the tank petcock (easier) and attach another to it and the end into a container. Press the starter button. You should get fuel coming through if the fuel pump is working.

Right then if that is working move further down check the spark plugs make sure they are sparking. You can put easy start or petrol down the spark plug hole and see if she starts up. However you have to remember that these earth through the starter motor plus 3 other points on the bike.

One is on the left hand side just below the Brain attached to the frame, the second is under the tank middle upper frame tube. Third is behind the air box. Depending if the fairing is on you have to remove the right hand side fairing for the one behind the air box. Then remove the two 6mm bolts that hold the air pipe on, detach the snap brackets on the air box and pull the air box top part off. You will see the earth attached onto the back of the fuel rail.

I mentioned the starter motor these earth through the starter motor so any electrical problems can be related normally back to here. You can simply remove the starter motor mark it up with a permanent marker then take it apart. You can actually reverse the polarity of these starter motors so they spin backwards.

With the starter motor cleaned up, fresh fuel, spark at the plugs and coils working. If you still have no go then I'd look at your electrics side of things. Could be loose connection on the brain one of the pins.

No point getting the fuel injectors cleaned at this point proffesionally anyway.
Ok,can't get the plugs out,need a different spanner. Motor turns when connected to battery,still waiting for tank parts,but will try all this when I have them. Thanks.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 12:41 - 31 Dec 2018    Post subject: brick Reply with quote

Ok,can't get the plugs out,need a different spanner. Motor turns when connected to battery,still waiting for tank parts,but will try all this when I have them. Thanks.

I hope all the valves where free, as not sticking. Any noises when you turned the engine over and all sounds ok, or does it make a noise as if one compression has been "lost" ?
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Soggz
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PostPosted: 17:21 - 31 Dec 2018    Post subject: Re: brick Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
Ok,can't get the plugs out,need a different spanner. Motor turns when connected to battery,still waiting for tank parts,but will try all this when I have them. Thanks.

I hope all the valves where free, as not sticking. Any noises when you turned the engine over and all sounds ok, or does it make a noise as if one compression has been "lost" ?
Sounds ok to me so far.
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Soggz
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PostPosted: 19:31 - 03 Jan 2019    Post subject: Re: brick Reply with quote

Soggz wrote:
bikenut wrote:
Ok,can't get the plugs out,need a different spanner. Motor turns when connected to battery,still waiting for tank parts,but will try all this when I have them. Thanks.

I hope all the valves where free, as not sticking. Any noises when you turned the engine over and all sounds ok, or does it make a noise as if one compression has been "lost" ?
Sounds ok to me so far.
first start in 12 years!
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:49 - 04 Jan 2019    Post subject: bm Reply with quote

pictures wont open for some reason, but, be aware that the clutch may well be "stuck"......ie, will not "free" due to sticktion and really crash gears and bike shoot off with you being unable to stop it.

There is an easy way to free off a stuck clutch. Run engine till at normal temp, with bike on side stand. I good idea as this bike has been "resting " for some time. Give time for all engine components to get used to moving again ( valves ) .

When at running temp and bike on centre stand with no danger of it slipping/rolling off the centre stand, stop engine.

Select a high ish gear and start engine. The rear wheel must be able to be rotated freely, ie brakes not stuck and working, just in case.

Now pull in clutch and blip the throttle until the clutch frees.

This is much better than just grabbing a hand full of throttle and smashing it into gear, with the result of an un control able "bucking bronko" heading for the nearest plate glass window!!!

its kinder to the gear box as well.
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Soggz
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PostPosted: 12:53 - 04 Jan 2019    Post subject: Re: bm Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
pictures wont open for some reason, but, be aware that the clutch may well be "stuck"......ie, will not "free" due to sticktion and really crash gears and bike shoot off with you being unable to stop it.

There is an easy way to free off a stuck clutch. Run engine till at normal temp, with bike on side stand. I good idea as this bike has been "resting " for some time. Give time for all engine components to get used to moving again ( valves ) .

When at running temp and bike on centre stand with no danger of it slipping/rolling off the centre stand, stop engine.

Select a high ish gear and start engine. The rear wheel must be able to be rotated freely, ie brakes not stuck and working, just in case.

Now pull in clutch and blip the throttle until the clutch frees.

This is much better than just grabbing a hand full of throttle and smashing it into gear, with the result of an un control able "bucking bronko" heading for the nearest plate glass window!!!

its kinder to the gear box as well.
Thanks. Clutch seems fine! Went up and down the gearbox, selects ok and goes in out of year no problem. I have another problem though, I think the thermostat may be useless, as the temp light came on and water came out of the expansion bottle. Can never kicked in, not sure why. Any ideas?
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BTTD
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PostPosted: 14:59 - 04 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fan could be kaput.
Get a couple of leads and jump 12v straight from the battery to see if the fan powers up.

If it does, run the bike again and see if the radiator gets hot.
Either the thermostat that lets water through the rad is jammed in the closed position, or the sensor to turn on the fan isn't working.
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Soggz
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PostPosted: 15:43 - 04 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

jnw010 wrote:
The fan could be kaput.
Get a couple of leads and jump 12v straight from the battery to see if the fan powers up.

If it does, run the bike again and see if the radiator gets hot.
Either the thermostat that lets water through the rad is jammed in the closed position, or the sensor to turn on the fan isn't working.
radiator gets hot, as does each pipe each side. Havnt tried the 12v yet. Will try when I get a moment. Thank you.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:02 - 05 Jan 2019    Post subject: stick Reply with quote

Yes, even thermostats can stick sometimes.

When the engine starts from cold, the thermostat does not allow coolant flow thru the rad until a certain temperature has been reached, say 85 degrees c as an example ( the opening temp is usually marked on the thermostat ) .

This means the rad top does not get "hot" until the thermostat opens.

You will feel the temp and opening.

All this is to make for a quick engine warm up.

If the thermostat does not open, a "reverse" flow tends to happen sometimes.

Check temp with hand as engine temp rises.

If the rad cap is removed from cold you will see flow, increasing as revs rise somewhat, when the thermostat opens, due to coolant pump flow.

Remember the system will be "pressurised" when hot so do not remove the rad cap when engine hot.

If the system has an expansion tank ( to catch and hold expanded coolant due to heat, allows system to "refill" when cooling down, so system is always full. ) you will see the level rise when engine warms up, and falls when cooling down.

Also when engine at temp, feel rad core for "cold patches" meaning that area has blocked tubes.

The fan is for "extra cooling" when sitting in traffic.

Your system may ( may ) have a cooling system "heater" to reduce temp rise time, most modern cars have this. Look for "heater plugs" and wiring usually thru a relay for this, look at the wiring diagram for these parts also.

The temp sensor and temp gauge sender unit may be close to or in the thermostat housing.

post a wiring diagram
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Snod Blatter
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PostPosted: 18:47 - 05 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Radiator fans on Ks often don't work, they get a load of nastiness thrown at them their whole life and it takes an awful lot to get the motor hot enough to make the fan kick in so they often don't turn a blade for years at a time.
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Soggz
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PostPosted: 00:20 - 06 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Snod Blatter wrote:
Radiator fans on Ks often don't work, they get a load of nastiness thrown at them their whole life and it takes an awful lot to get the motor hot enough to make the fan kick in so they often don't turn a blade for years at a time.
Hi. The fan turns fairly freely by hand, but just never came on when the temp light did. I read that the fan should kick in earlier than the light?
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Soggz
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PostPosted: 23:21 - 16 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi.
Ok,the fan had had it! A brush mounting had melted,so I put a new spal fan on,checked the thermostat,checked the heat sensor. All works fine now!
Injectors went off for a service,they should be back in the next couple of days. All fine and within 2.5% flow rating of each other. Took the rear wheel final drive off to check it and the drive shaft. Tbh,I don't think there is much life left between the two. Anyone know where I can get a 20 tooth final drive unit and drive shaft please?
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Soggz
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PostPosted: 07:18 - 18 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Soggz wrote:
Hi.
Ok,the fan had had it! A brush mounting had melted,so I put a new spal fan on,checked the thermostat,checked the heat sensor. All works fine now!
Injectors went off for a service,they should be back in the next couple of days. All fine and within 2.5% flow rating of each other. Took the rear wheel final drive off to check it and the drive shaft. Tbh,I don't think there is much life left between the two. Anyone know where I can get a 20 tooth final drive unit and drive shaft please?
No one?
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BTTD
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PostPosted: 09:11 - 18 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Soggz"]
Soggz wrote:
No one?


You might be better off asking on a bmw, or k bike specific forum.
Motorworks list some used derive shafts:

https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=10&M=40&Ct=FA&SbCt=BA_10_40_FA_30

Give them a call, see what they can source for you.
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Soggz
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PostPosted: 20:48 - 21 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might be better off asking on a bmw, or k bike specific forum.
Motorworks list some used derive shafts:

https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=10&M=40&Ct=FA&SbCt=BA_10_40_FA_30

Give them a call, see what they can source for you.[/quote]thanx man.
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