tourqe wrench

[Bedsidedoughn...]

Im looking for torqe wrench settings for a zontes tiger 125 , cant seem to find any anywhere

[Nobby the Bastard]

[bikenut]

post a picture of the bike, and what do you need to torque up?
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nuts about bikes

[Nobby the Bastard]

[Bedsidedoughn...]

Mainly for front and rear sprockets https://goo.gl/images/LAo8us

[Nobby the Bastard]

[Bedsidedoughn...]

Nope

[WD Forte]

Maximum general purpose /Ball park tork figures based on screw size are
M6 10lb/ft
M8 25lb/ft
M10 50lb/ft
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bikers smell of wee

[johnsmith222]

I'd look for a manual for a similar bike to get an idea of what setting to use. Something like the Honda CG125.

Just check it's a very similar setup e.g. same number of nuts, similar sized nuts/sprocket before going off those numbers.

Tbh for a rear sprocket I probably wouldn't even bother use a torque wrench.

[WD Forte]

For comparison:
I have a YBR125 manual here and the tourke figures for
the sprockets in foreign muck and real money are
Front sprocket retainer bolts 6Nm or 4.45lb/ft
Rear sprocket bolts 40Nm or 29.5 lb/ft
Rear axle nut 80Nm or 59 lb/ft
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bikers smell of wee

[Teflon-Mike]

If you use spanners, rather than sockets..... first of all, you have full, positive and direct 'feel' of what you are doing... rather than a load of joints potentially flexing and a ratchet mechanism clicking, so you cant feel what's going on.... More... the handle of most spanners is 'sized' you your hand, so that if it hurts.... your hanging on it too hard! But have a look, a 10mm spanner has a much shorter handle than a 16mm or a 22mm.

This of course doesn't help you find specific torque settings.... B-U-T.... go buy the book...... which in the case of a Zontes is probably the Haynes book of 125 four-strokes...... it answers many silly questions, like this one, as well as this one.... go stump up and don't be a cheap-skate!

Moving on.... you will find that the 'fasteners' for which there is a 'critical torque' recommendation, is actually quite few. Mostly it will be the brake rotor bolts and the cylinder head stud nuts.... which tend to have to be peculiarly tight.... and, with a number of fasteners all on the same 'flange' where two bits of metal meet, it's usually not even the tightness that's 'so' critical, as the tightening sequence to pull the two-faces together flat, and getting all the fasteners around a flange all the same tightness.

Other-wise the book will quote the 'general' recommendations for particular size nuts of bolts..... and that is usually pretty much 'finger tight, plus half a grunt'.... which is to introduce an old, pre-imperial system of measurement, much used round the midlands, like Birmingham or Derby, when blokes wore boiler suits, and flat-caps.... Explained 'roughly':-

Finger tight = not completely loose, but as tight as you can do it up with your fingers, and NO spanner.
Niped = Finger tight, plus a bit, done with a spanner, so you cant undo it with your fingers
One Grunt Tight = Nipped plus enough extra to make you hold your breath as you do it.
Two Grunt Tight A bit more than 'one grunt' tight; you might turn a tad blue in the face on this one.
Three Grunt Tight - bit more, still, than two-grunt. You might hold your breath a bit longer, and start to turn a bit red.
The scale does go on.... but the after 3-grunt tight you get
Nuns Knickers Tight = 3-grunts and the spanner might start to leave temporary dents in your hand
And then you are into the 'expletive-scale', starting with
Effoff-Tight, which is when you might start looking for something to make the spanner longer, or hitting it with a hammer.
Car Cylinder-Head nuts usually fall into this category..... BUT!!!

WARNING!
Where 'Critical' torque settings are provided, these days, it is more often, and especially so on motorbikes NOT because the fastener needs to be effoff-tight.... BUT because it significantly ISN'T! The setting provided is normally actually rather 'low' deliberately so, to stop you from OVER tightening it, and stripping threads.... which is a very real risk on any fastener with threads in soft metal like aluminium or aluminium alloy.... like most bits on motorbikes is....

And this is especially so on motorbikes of Chinese origin, where the metal quality is significantly questionable.

For the sprocket retaining nuts?
On a lot of generic Chinks they use the old 'small-honda; sprocket set-up, and the front-sprocket slides over the sprocket shaft splines. The sprocket retaining plate, then slides over the same splines, but the holes for the bolts don't line up with those on the sprocket. The plate has to be twisted one half a spline, in a groove on the shaft for them to line up, so the sprocket has a 'little' side-to-side movement on the splines, but the tangs of the splines in the retaining plate, sat in the shaft groove, mean that the sprocket cant fall off the shaft. There's no real side-ways load on on sprocket. And both bits are steel, sow no 'enormous'; risk of ripping threads, so the two bolts only really need to be something a bit more than nipped, maybe not even one-grunt tight, by hand, with a spanner... and its not a critical gasket flange, so you shouldn't need to be all that close between them to keep the gasket flat.

On the Rear-Wheel... well the wheel is likely allow, so it MAY be a bit more prudent to be a tad careful to avoid over tightening.

On the old small-honda system, like the CG among others though, its NOT the 'studs' that actually hold the sprocket on the wheel. And them studs aren't... they are just drive pegs. And you need to hold them at the back of the sprocket, to tighten them to the sprocket, or they have a habbit of just turning, and doing that before you fit sprocket to the wheel, where its held on side-to-side by a great big circlip in a groove....

If it uses another system, and I think the YBR has a paddle type cush-drive with semi-separate spocket carrier..... then its back to common sense and cleaning the mount so the sprocket actually sits flat when fitted, is likely far more important than the torque settings.....

A-N-D common sense... Most underused tool in the work-shop, IME... meanwhile...

"The Torque Wrench" and an over enthusiastic tendancy to do it 'right', by the book, and to the numbers.... has seen far MORE stripped threads and sheared screws and consequent hassle trying to repair them.... than almost anything else......

Most common one on that, BTW is using a general work-shop torque wrench, usually calibrated for the higher torque settings, you will probably NEVER encounter anywhere on a motorbike! Usually in conjunction with not reading the setting scales properly, and setting the right number... but with the wrong units, or the right numbers but the wrong value, getting the decimal point in the wrong place!

Hint. Look at them simple hand spanners, and observe the length of the handle! If you have a 6mm bolt to do up, well, If I fist a 6mm spanner, I barely have the jaws either end poking out my mitt.... handle is something like 10cm long..... now look at your torque-wrench.... My GP work-shop tQ-Wrench is a little over a meter long.... Hmmm.... I 'probably' don't need to put much force on the end of that to do up a little screw! The more often used, 'low-range;' torque wrench, has the tiny 1/4 inch square drive on it, which suggests much smaller forces, and its handle is about 6 or 7inch long... this is 'much' more reasonable for NOT over-tightening 'little' nuts and bolts, me thinks... and common sense should concur and be applied when looking at anything else!

And more still; in a pro-workshop, the Torque-Wrench is NOT a tool that is used all the time, every-time. In fact, it probably rarely comes out the box, the practice hands relying on 'feel' through the spanner to know when something is tight-enough or not....

On generic Chinky bikes.... intended for 'Developing-Market' regions, where labour rates are low, to offset the high anticipated maintenance of them.... well, franchise dealers wouldn't make much money from a fully appointed work-shop, and beneath that, the local 'Back-Street' mechanic wallah, is lucky to even have a STREET! (I actually have some photo's from India a few years ago, of a local mechanic, working in the road, with a portable generator and stick-welder! Without even a frigging welding mask! eek!)

Its 'expected' that most mechanics will not have such sophisticated specialist tools as a torque-wrench, let alone all the books for all the bikes they might work on, or a google connection on the Smurf-fone they probably also dont have.... And they WILL employ old fashioned common sense and 'feel'..... probably through a humble hand-spanner. Especially on anything that much less 'crucial' than a cylinder head stuff or brake rotor-bolt.

See Forte's suggested tQ recommends for a YBR....they are probably not far off.... if you must use a tQ wrench.... but.... for those fasteners, JUST use a spanner and a bit of coccum!
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[Kentol750]

Tef wins... he's just brill.
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Some bikes.

[ThatDippyTwat]

[Fisty]

[doombug11]

Well I aint been on here in a few years but I guess its good to see the "Wall of Tef' is still going strong

Personally on a motorcycle I would go with using a torque wrench even if it is to standard bolt torque settings, as noted above. Obviously its ideal if you have the manual with all the torque settings, but this isn't a old car where you can get away with doing the torque by hand, motorcycles are engineered to much more precise tolerances.

Personally I would find a dealer who had been importing that brand of motorcycle and they should have a main dealer service guide with the relevant torque settings you require or at least their mechanics will be able to give to you a good idea of of what to do.

Anyway I see someone else has posted a general torque setting guide, but here is another one I found on google...

Standard Torque Setings
M5-Bolt or Nut--5Nm
M6-Bolt or Nut--10Nm
M8Bolt or Nut--21.5Nm
M10Bolt or Nut 35Nm
M12Bolt or Nut 55Mm

M6Bolt or Nut flanged head 12Mn
M8Bolt or Nut flanged head 27Nm
M10Bolt or Nut flanged head 40Nm
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1999 CBR900RR, 1984 CM200 (previously 125)

[GSTEEL32]