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Bleeding hydraulics or "I fucking hate this clutch"

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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:05 - 17 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doesn't seem to be much wrong with the amount of movement you're getting on that pressure plate.
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 15:28 - 18 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a Honda CBR1000 clutch master cylinder on my FJ1200 and where the unit points upwards then,as others have suggested,air gets trapped.

https://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w384/Rhencullen5/FJ1200/20160607_205644_zpss8102caj.jpg~original

Unless you have a banjo bolt with a bleed nipple in the end,then I found the easiest way to bleed the master cylinder without touching the slave cylinder was to arrange the left handlebar to point downwards slightly.Then,with the cap off the master cylinder just pull the clutch lever in just a little and then let it go slowly.If you see lots of tiny air bubbles bleed to the surface,keep doing this until no more appear.

This works just as well on the brakes Thumbs Up Wink
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 16:34 - 18 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Doesn't seem to be much wrong with the amount of movement you're getting on that pressure plate.


That's what I thought as well.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 18 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll have a go at angling the cylinder tomorrow. I'm ordering a bleed banjo for it rather than pissing around like this every time.
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jimspeed
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PostPosted: 01:01 - 19 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would have thought the amount of movement you have there on the clutch plates is enough to disengage it, what's it like with the engine running ?
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Enduro Numpty
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PostPosted: 20:08 - 19 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
stinkwheel wrote:
Doesn't seem to be much wrong with the amount of movement you're getting on that pressure plate.


That's what I thought as well.


Me Too.
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Enduro Numpty
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PostPosted: 20:08 - 19 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
stinkwheel wrote:
Doesn't seem to be much wrong with the amount of movement you're getting on that pressure plate.


That's what I thought as well.


Me Too.
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Grubscrew
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PostPosted: 20:27 - 19 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whilst you are doing that ,tap lightly with a small hammer the handle bars you may find it dislodges a stubborn bubble.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 19 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I should have a bleed banjo here in a day or two. I have a hide hammer I can use for tappy tappy purposes. If that doesn't work, I'll be trying moving on to trying Voodoo and sacrificing one of the local scrotes, or the scrappy.

Something is wrong. It's very, very difficult to paddle the bike with the lever back to the bars. I need to really push to get it to move at all. Yeah, it's a lump oif a bike, but it's never been that difficult to move it about in 1st with the clutch in. For that reason, I don't fancy knocking her into gear with the motor running, for obvious reasons. I'll see if I can weight the front down on the centrestand enough to feel happy giving it a go.

Assuming I can get it sorted, brake will be having a bleed banjo installed next time they need doing.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:44 - 19 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThatDippyTwat wrote:

Something is wrong. It's very, very difficult to paddle the bike with the lever back to the bars. I need to really push to get it to move at all. Yeah, it's a lump oif a bike, but it's never been that difficult to move it about in 1st with the clutch in. For that reason, I don't fancy knocking her into gear with the motor running, for obvious reasons. I'll see if I can weight the front down on the centrestand enough to feel happy giving it a go.


No, sit on the bike with it on both wheels, Hold the front brake on and put it in gear. It's not going to wheely across the yard or do a rolling burnout at idle even if the clutch isn't disengaging at all. It'll stall.

If you're super paranoid, roll it so the front wheel is against a wall. But still be on the bike in case you drop it.

Holy crap, you should have seen the welly I used to give my GPZ500 to free off a stuck clutch...
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 07:14 - 20 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
If you're super paranoid, roll it so the front wheel is against a wall. But still be on the bike in case you drop it.


Emphasis mine.
Not super paranoid, but she's a heavy old bird that I've had to pick up once, and I don't fancy repeating it, not to mention fairings are expensive bastards.
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Meatybeaty
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PostPosted: 07:41 - 20 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hope that bleed banjo comes sooner than hoped, it does get frustrating when something like this happens, but keep the faith Wink
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:13 - 20 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThatDippyTwat wrote:
stinkwheel wrote:
If you're super paranoid, roll it so the front wheel is against a wall. But still be on the bike in case you drop it.


Emphasis mine.
Not super paranoid, but she's a heavy old bird that I've had to pick up once, and I don't fancy repeating it, not to mention fairings are expensive bastards.


The point being, if you're on the bike, you won't drop it. Ever put it in gear with the stand down and tried to ride away and the engine dies as soon as you let the clutch out a bit? That's what it'll feel like if the clutch is stuck.

If you fuck about trying to weigh the front end down so the rear is off the ground with it sat on the mainstand and start fucking about with the rear whel spinning, THAT is when you will drop it.

Plus I think your clutch plates are slightly stuck together so it probably will have a fair clunk/stall when you put it in gear. Holding the rear wheel stationary is more likely to shock them loose than just allowing it to spin the rear wheel in the air.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 20:22 - 20 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

We'll give it a crack tomorrow. Battery needs to charge, she's been stood for a bit.
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andym
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PostPosted: 11:54 - 21 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you clamped up the slave cylinder yet?

When I done the clutch on my VFR I was having the same problem until I held the piston in the slave cylinder with a G-clamp, after that it took a couple of attempts to get the lever solid.... that was about 5-6 years ago and never had to adjust it once yet.

Also the bleed banjo bolts are a bit crap, because I was told that I definitely had air in the system with my ninja etc.... I fitted one and not a single bubble of air came out, it ended up it was at least one of the pistons that was sticking that was the problem.
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Tankie
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PostPosted: 12:18 - 21 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take the master cyl assy off the bars, hang vertically so the bubble can migrate out of the hose through the banjo into the cyl then into the res. also remove the slave cyl so you can pump it out a bit further , hang the master vertically again and push the slave piston back in in one hard push to displace the bubble
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 16:02 - 21 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will repeat that I don't think it needs further bleeding. There is adequate seperation of the clutch plates showing on that animated image earlier.

We are chasing a non-problem and I will continue to consider this to be the case until proven otherwise by the OP getting on his bike, starting it and putting it into gear.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Tankie
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PostPosted: 16:13 - 21 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your powers of remote diagnostics must be good Very Happy
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 19:39 - 21 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
We are chasing a non-problem and I will continue to consider this to be the case until proven otherwise by the OP getting on his bike, starting it and putting it into gear.

When the battery is sorted, I will. Someone unplugged it last night.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 17:39 - 22 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

One stuck clutch, unstuck. Cheers for the pointer.

It was very, very stuck. Took a couple of outright bangs and stalls, but she moves now. Needs a good ride out to free her off properly I reckon.

Clutch still feels spongy, but if it works, it works.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 17:49 - 22 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThatDippyTwat wrote:
It was very, very stuck. Took a couple of outright bangs and stalls, but she moves now. Needs a good ride out to free her off properly I reckon.


Ow. Good that it's fixed though. It's good to free clutches by separating the plates, which don't normally need much if moved sideways rather than round and round, when they stick like glue.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 17:53 - 22 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
which don't normally need much if moved sideways rather than round and round, when they stick like glue.


I thought they slid easily enough when I moved them when I had the case off. Obviously not.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 18:59 - 22 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThatDippyTwat wrote:
Riejufixing wrote:
which don't normally need much if moved sideways rather than round and round, when they stick like glue.

I thought they slid easily enough when I moved them when I had the case off. Obviously not.

The pressure plate may move in & out & leave the other plates stuck together. Aside, I had a friend who purchasd a Datsun Cherry (they don't name 'em like that any more...) that had been stuck in a garage for decade or three. It wouldn't come out, so rather than work in a cramped space, he towed it. Once out, it was obvious that the rear wheels had siezed solid and would not rotate at all. Towing it up & down with the handbrake off didn't help, but a tap on the drums with a hammer freed things up just like that.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 19:26 - 22 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
The pressure plate may move in & out & leave the other plates stuck together.

I get that, hence I thought they slid easily enough, I moved them in and out without resistance et, when I opened the case again. I'm still puizzled as to why they stick so much as to need a fair bit of force to unstick them, when moving the plates by hand was fine.
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