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Further musings on Enfield crankcase breathing *updated*

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Triton Thrasher
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
smegballs wrote:

Isn't said relief valve a pretty standard part of all 4-stroke lubrication systems?

Jesus Christ Enfield, why were you so pikey?


Because Royal Enfield had gone bust. The Indian factory kept making and selling them because nobody told them to stop.

They had A slution for the pressure relief, it just wasn't a very good one.

One thing about these bikes is they make you think about exactly how an engine works.

They also just keep running. Like said dropped exhaust valve seat. The engine hadn't stopped running as such, it was just down on power a bit and backfired a lot on the overrun.

Properly checked the ignition timing at the weekend (with a timing disc and everything). It was 15 degrees out. Adjusting it has made no perceptable difference to either ease of starting or performance.


Did you use a strobe to check that it goes from retarded to advanced, as you rev up?

They certainly don't always keep going when the valve seat comes loose.
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CHR15
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PostPosted: 21:56 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

have you got any photos of the head + valves when they're coked up?

that may give a clue as to how and where the oil is being burnt.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:48 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now with added science!

I'm finding some of the numbers I'm getting here fairly mind boggling.

So:

Description
Late model Royal Enfield 350 bullet engines breathe an inordinate amount.

It has already been established that by repositioning the crankcase breather from the oil tank to its original design location on the crankcase, an as-yet unquantified vacuum exists inside the oil tank/crankcase.

It is possible to allow the oil tank to ventilate itself. It is uncertain what effect this will have on the quantity of gas being expelled fron the breather system.

Hypothesis
Venting the oil tank to atmosphere while retaining a direct crankcase breather could effectively turn the engine into a compressor.

Equipment
A 2007 350 bullet with a retro-fitted crankcase breather utilising a non-return ball valve, standard oil tank breather stub in oil tank and blanked-off timing chest return stub.

A bucket of water

A 750ml wine bottle

A length of silicone tubing.

A Royal Enfield duckbill breather hose.

A stopwatch (nokia).

Method

By filling the bottle with water , covering the neck and inverting it in a bucket of water, it is possible to insert a rubber hose into the bottle without disturbing the water. Any pressurised gas passed through the hose will displace the water.

The volume of the bottle is already established. By timing how long it takes to displace all the water, a rough gas flow rate can be calculated.

The engine was set to a fast idle speed of approximately 1,200prm then the end of the crankcase breather hose connected to the measuring apparatus.

Results

With the crankcase breather modification blocked off and a standard duckbill breather on the oil tank stub, the gas flow rate was 1.8 litres per minute.

With the crankcase breather modification active and the oil tank vent blocked, the gas flow rate was 1.7 litres per minute.

With the crankcase breather modification active and the oil tank free to ventilate to atmosphere, the gas flow rate was 10.0 litres per minute.

Conclusion
The gas flow rate breathed by the engine is not significantly affected by having relocated the crankcase breather to the oil tank.

By allowing the crankcase to breathe directly, a significant vacuum must occurr in the oil tank. By ventilating the oil tank, the engine breathes at a rate nearly an order of magnitude higher.

Discussion

To put these figures in perspective. A 350cc single cylinder engine will be displacing 420 litres of gas per minute both above and below the piston when rotated at 1,200rpm.

It is considered desirable to have a slight vacuum in the crankcase. This helps to avoid oil being forced up past the piston rings. If too high, it will cause resistance to the piston rising on the compression and exhaust strokes.

It is not considered desirable to have a vacuum in an oil tank, this can provide resistance to oil egress into the high pressure part of the lubrication system.

It would appear that ventilating the oil tank while allowing one-way breathing from the crankcase results in a massive increase in the rate of gas being breathed out. Suggesting some sort of through-flow effect not unlike a compressor. The effect of running an engine under load in this state remains to be seen and will be the subject of further experimentation.

What the effects of the differing breather locations at higher engine speeds has not been established.

Also video of the above experiment:

https://youtu.be/ET0Rv4fh-Yc

TL;DR Piss off, you wouldn't have got this far down the thread if you didn't have a reasonable attention span.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:02 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Triton Thrasher wrote:


Did you use a strobe to check that it goes from retarded to advanced, as you rev up?


Aye. Used a degree wheel and everything.

Quote:
They certainly don't always keep going when the valve seat comes loose.

Mine did. For about 6 months. Couldn't work out what all the popping and banging was.


CHR15 wrote:

have you got any photos of the head + valves when they're coked up?

that may give a clue as to how and where the oil is being burnt.


First ever decoke. Maybe 5,000 miles:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/enfield%20head%20231010/head.png

Head immediately prior to finding out the exhaust valve seal was a rattling fit. Around the 25k mile mark:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/enfield%20head%20231010/dscn1423.jpg

Oops:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/enfield%20head%20231010/dscn1425.jpg

Oh yeah, then it broke an oil control ring (I noticed this, got a tad smoky and started losing compression and power Laughing ) For some reason I didn't take a picture of the head but I had to get a new valve fitted. Here's the piston and valve. I got the alloy barrel after this because I broke the barrel trying to get the head off (it was pretty much glued on with carbon).

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/enfield%20head%20231010/CIMG1289_zpsacae3911.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/enfield%20head%20231010/CIMG1279_zps8a3ec2ae.jpg

I pulled the head quite recently to fit valve stem oil seals but as I recall, it didn't need much in the way of a de-coke, just a cursory scrape with a 2p.

Plug is a consistant dark brown.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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CHR15
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PostPosted: 23:30 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

what does the valve chest side of the head look like?

from what you wrote, my understanding is that the oil is scavenged from the crankcase and fed into the head, before dropping back down into the oil tank? (what a lovely simple way of lubricating the head and deaerating the oil!)


with the engine in the frame, is there the possibility of oil pooling around the guides to the point where it reaches the level of the stem seals?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:38 - 25 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

CHR15 wrote:
what does the valve chest side of the head look like?

from what you wrote, my understanding is that the oil is scavenged from the crankcase and fed into the head, before dropping back down into the oil tank? (what a lovely simple way of lubricating the head and deaerating the oil!)


Yes, it runs down the pushrod tunnels into the timing chest to lubricate the tappets, cams and timing gear then runs out of there back into the oil tank.

Quote:
with the engine in the frame, is there the possibility of oil pooling around the guides to the point where it reaches the level of the stem seals?


You know what, I've never checked. I should. Maybe I just need to get the dremmel out and facilitate a quicker flow of oil between the rocker area and the pushrod tunnel.

WIth properly pressure-fed rockers, it shouldn't need much oil hanging about up there.

Mind you. It's done it with two different heads.

I'm off to have a look now. Only needs 4 nuts undoing.

EDIT:
Yes. Yes it can.

And it would be much worse if it were leaned over to the left (like if it was on the sidestand). I can't see much one could do to stop it though. There's a narrow gap in the casting between the posts the rocker block is mounted on which is where any oil that lands up around the valve stem has to pass through to get out.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/enfield%20head%20231010/CIMG0292.jpg

As evidenced by the oil in top of the rocker block and nuts, oil gets flung about up there a fair bit.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/enfield%20head%20231010/CIMG0290.jpg

Poured some 10w-40 oil over the top of the valve to over the level of the seal and it takes a tedious count of 10 to disappear again. Admittedly that's with it cold.

If I can't open out the outflow, I'd have to reduce the inflow. I wonder if I should re-fit the old, lower volume oil pumps? Although I dimly recall it doing the length of the dipstick on the way home from the dealers. Although that means draining the timing chest, removing the gasket etc, etc which is tedious as hell.

More questions and ponderings. Thinking
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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CHR15
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PostPosted: 00:40 - 26 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

i would suggest taking it for a run, at a point where you dont have to use it for a while afterwards.

park it up on the sidestand and remove the carb, spin the engine to tdc on compression and leave it overnight. have a look if theres any oil coming down the stem or pooled on the head in the morning.
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Triton Thrasher
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PostPosted: 07:41 - 26 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

10W/40 is so thin that it will burn in an old Brit bike, even if the engine has no real faults
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 09:03 - 26 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Triton Thrasher wrote:
10W/40 is so thin that it will burn in an old Brit bike, even if the engine has no real faults


20w-50 makes no real difference to the oil consumption and is increasingly hard to get for the price I'm prepared to pay to be chucking in half a pint for every tank of fuel.

Most enfield owners use 15w-40 in their bikes. I usually do if I've been to Morrisons recently because they do a diesel specific 15w-40 quite cheap. I reckon it could do with the detergent.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 10:36 - 26 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Triton Thrasher wrote:
10W/40 is so thin that it will burn in an old Brit bike, even if the engine has no real faults


20w-50 makes no real difference to the oil consumption and is increasingly hard to get for the price I'm prepared to pay to be chucking in half a pint for every tank of fuel.

Most enfield owners use 15w-40 in their bikes. I usually do if I've been to Morrisons recently because they do a diesel specific 15w-40 quite cheap. I reckon it could do with the detergent.


20-50w is available from halfords for 20 quid.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:55 - 26 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

mysterious_rider wrote:


20-50w is available from halfords for 20 quid.


Exactly. About double the cost of the stuff I'm using.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Triton Thrasher
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PostPosted: 18:57 - 26 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some cheap oils lose their multigrade qualities (and other qualities) quite quickly.
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Northern Monkey
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PostPosted: 19:06 - 26 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Triton Thrasher wrote:
Some cheap oils lose their multigrade qualities (and other qualities) quite quickly.


Unlikely to be an issue if its buring 25% of its oil every 300 miles. The oil in there is unlikely to be lasting more than 1000 miles
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Old Thread Alert!

There is a gap of 3 years, 83 days between these two posts...

stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:27 - 19 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Holy thread resurrection batman!

I just stripped the crankcases on this engine ready for swapping the main bearings after a catastrophic valve failure.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gg0WSrR8JOM7gJeZMbG4eSrhN62BzRyC9L71UZcT-UZyCTNrlEGPT-RChKX5LjPezS7EsqmZhKqSTYTUr7ytyBm2qZDohEkFGnENawdzWrWFSaFg5OaoTbINyfb44QTvoBDAj1tdWg=w931-h698-no

Can you spot it???


The crank seal is in backwards. I have owned this bike for 10 years. It had 300 miles on the clock when I bought it. The previous owner was in his 80's and I'm pretty certain he hadn't drained the timing chest and removed the timing pinnion befroe I got it. I'm absolutely certain I haven't. So it came from the factory like that!

Bugger me!
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 13:51 - 28 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Enjoyed this thread and like your approach to testing to find the fault. What a bummer all this trouble and strife was caused at the factory. I'm drawn to these old chuggers, but not sure I could stand the level of quality control problems they have. I was looking recently into the Enfield Himalayan but was put of when looking at facebook groups and seeing tales of new owners of six month old bikes having problems with chafed wires near the headstock causing electrical faults on bikes with a few hundred miles on them.

I love the archaic nature of these engines, but probably not the foibles.

Glad you found the cause and hope the re-build proves reliable.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 00:28 - 29 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm almost certain I told you about the seal in my post on this thread in 1987. 🤣
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 16:05 - 29 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

BusterGonads wrote:
Enjoyed this thread and like your approach to testing to find the fault. What a bummer all this trouble and strife was caused at the factory. I'm drawn to these old chuggers, but not sure I could stand the level of quality control problems they have. I was looking recently into the Enfield Himalayan but was put off when looking at facebook groups and seeing tales of new owners of six month old bikes having problems with chafed wires near the headstock causing electrical faults on bikes with a few hundred miles on them.

I love the archaic nature of these engines, but probably not the foibles.

Glad you found the cause and hope the re-build proves reliable.
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Northern Monkey
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PostPosted: 11:04 - 03 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

BusterGonads wrote:
Enjoyed this thread and like your approach to testing to find the fault. What a bummer all this trouble and strife was caused at the factory. I'm drawn to these old chuggers, but not sure I could stand the level of quality control problems they have. I was looking recently into the Enfield Himalayan but was put of when looking at facebook groups and seeing tales of new owners of six month old bikes having problems with chafed wires near the headstock causing electrical faults on bikes with a few hundred miles on them.

I love the archaic nature of these engines, but probably not the foibles.

Glad you found the cause and hope the re-build proves reliable.


I just got back from Vietnam, where the owner of the hire bike company with ~400 (all honda) bikes has bought half a dozen RE himalayas. After 6 months he is not buying any more of them, they break too often, and is currently buying every CB500X that he can get his hands one
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 14:17 - 04 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Northern Monkey wrote:


I just got back from Vietnam, where the owner of the hire bike company with ~400 (all honda) bikes has bought half a dozen RE himalayas. After 6 months he is not buying any more of them, they break too often, and is currently buying every CB500X that he can get his hands one


Yeah - that's my impression from reading the RE classic and RE Himalayan facebook group feeds. Tons of problems on pretty much new bikes. That said, the old style Bullets like Stinkwheel's have a certain charm about them, as long as you take them for what they are.

I have a CG125 about twenty years old (though low mileage) and a Street Twin. I took the CG125 for its MOT at Hexham about 18 miles from here and apologised to the tester geezer when I left it because it had my tool bag strapped to the rack. I told him I never go anywhere without tools. He said, 'Why? It's a Honda. It won't break down." Of course it hasn't done in over five thousand miles, so he is probably right - although I did get a puncture one night in the winter, but that could happen t any bike. My tool carrying habit comes from my early days riding old 1950s BSA commuter bikes that had been worked hard and neglected badly. You didn't dare go anywhere without tools on them or you'd end up stuck.
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ajb235
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PostPosted: 10:39 - 14 May 2019    Post subject: 500 bullet oil consumption Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Holy thread resurrection batman!

I just stripped the crankcases on this engine ready for swapping the main bearings after a catastrophic valve failure.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gg0WSrR8JOM7gJeZMbG4eSrhN62BzRyC9L71UZcT-UZyCTNrlEGPT-RChKX5LjPezS7EsqmZhKqSTYTUr7ytyBm2qZDohEkFGnENawdzWrWFSaFg5OaoTbINyfb44QTvoBDAj1tdWg=w931-h698-no

Can you spot it???


The crank seal is in backwards. I have owned this bike for 10 years. It had 300 miles on the clock when I bought it. The previous owner was in his 80's and I'm pretty certain he hadn't drained the timing chest and removed the timing pinnion befroe I got it. I'm absolutely certain I haven't. So it came from the factory like that!

Bugger me!




I have a 1993 500 Bullet which I have owned for 12 years, and I have had exactly the same problems. I have tried breathers the Hitchcock crankcase breather return, new valves new guides new Pistons new rings, all to no avail. This discovery is a life saver for me. My engine will be stripped and rebuilt ASAP!
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MCN
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PostPosted: 17:57 - 14 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

My BSA C12 was a pig to start. Iridium plug helped that but it was very under powered and got mad hot on short 3-4 mile runs on the flat.
I found that the ignition was only 180 degrees centigrade out. Shocked
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The last post was made 4 years, 348 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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