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Oil viscosity options

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Travis Bickle This post is not being displayed because the poster is banned. Unhide this post / all posts.

blurredman
World Chat Champion



Joined: 18 Sep 2010
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PostPosted: 10:19 - 24 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Generally the lower oil viscosity is to maintain oil pressure and viscosity to lower temperatures. Likewise with the the higher ones. You don't want really thin oil in a hot climate, it could be too thin to properly lubricate bearings/cams/lifters/chains/anything -


Too thick an oil in the winter could mean that it doesn't travel to the correct places fast enough to reduce engine-starting and 'warm up' wear.


That said, these days with multigrade oils, it's not so necessary to change your oil to a lower grade for the winter, as it would have been in the past.


10w40 is a good all round, really.


I'm sure i'll be corrected, though.
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (bored to 295cc) - 38k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 49k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k.
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Travis Bickle This post is not being displayed because the poster is banned. Unhide this post / all posts.

blurredman
World Chat Champion



Joined: 18 Sep 2010
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PostPosted: 10:46 - 24 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not necessarily.

You can use both 10w40 and 20w50 in our climate.

And yet one is thicker even whilst warm.
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (bored to 295cc) - 38k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 49k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k.
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Confusion
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 02 May 2013
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 24 Apr 2019    Post subject: Re: Oil viscosity options Reply with quote

Travis Bickle wrote:
Looking in the Haynes manual for my Fazer it says I can use either 10W/30 or 10W/40.


That is a reasonable recommendation. The FZS600 owners manual
also specifies 15W-40, 20W-40 and 20W-50, provided you don't
use the bike in very cold conditions.

Quote:
Even worse for my YBR I've got 6 options to choose from (0W/30, 10W/40, 10W/50, 15W/40, 20W/40 or 20W/50)


So cold viscosity 0W to 20W and hot viscosity from
SAE 30 to 50.

10W-40 would be a reasonable choice for either bike.

Your Fazer probably left the factory with Yamalube-branded
10W-40 in the sump.

Quote:
What are the pros and cons against a lower viscosity vs. a higher one and why would you pick one over the other?


I choose to use 5W-40 in my Kawasaki because it reduces the
rattling noises from the clutch when the engine is cold.

5W-40 or 10W-40 works fine in the Bandit.

Quote:
Is it generally accepted that the 10W/30 would give slightly better fuel efficiency and performance whereas the 10W/40 would give slightly better wear protection?


Generally, yes.

Quote:
Or is that over simplifying it?


A bit...

If you are worried about the specific viscosity values for
a given brand or type of oil, most manufacturers provide a
product data sheet which shows viscosity at 40C and 100C
and viscosity index for that particular product.
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Bandit 650SA, ZZ-R1100
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MCN
Super Spammer



Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 15:26 - 24 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Travis Bickle wrote:
I can see how having oil too viscous in cold weather would increase startup wear... but surely by the time and engine is warmed up (to say, what, 90 degrees) surely a 10 or even 20 degree difference in climate isn't going to affect it all that much?

I guess what I'm saying is that in minus 20 conditions your oil is going to be minus 20 at startup.

But it doesn't matter whether it's zero degrees or plus 50, once warmed up your engine/oil temperature is going to be the same regardless???


The harm is all over by the time the engine is up to temperature.

You MUST get oil to the main bearings soon after the engine fire up. They are pressure fed and 'splash lubrication' won't cut it in modern close-fit machines.

I have oil oil for both bikes and I stick to it so I have one thing less to fret over.
The auld BSA get Classic Bike oil (A blend of chip-pan fat and Mazola).

Big engines and other large machines have a Pre-Lube system that will not permit fuel to flow to the pump until a minimum oil pressure is felt at the cylinder head. It is critical that oil reaches the very rear-most main bearing before the engine is turned over as the weight of the crankshaft squeezes out the oil film when shut-down.
That leaves the bearing surfaces (Soft Babbit metal) subject to immediate injury from the ground surface of the crank journals.
It's sort-of-like Rocket Surgery. Smile
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.
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steve the grease
Crazy Courier



Joined: 26 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: 00:31 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not like we live in the Arctic circle or Sub Saharan Africa, we don't really have a climate in he UK , just weather.
In manuals there is usually a graph showing temperature and, grades of oil, with lubricants of different grades all overlapping, in the temp range we are likely to get in the UK. As a result , pretty much any of the oils listed for bikes operating anywhere in the world will do for a bike in the UK. 10w-40 does it for me , it's cheap and does all my 4 wheeled vehicles as well as the bikes , so whats not to like .
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