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R/R VFR 800 Gen 5

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myvision
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PostPosted: 10:53 - 16 May 2019    Post subject: R/R VFR 800 Gen 5 Reply with quote

I am thinking about moving my R/R on my VFR 800 so it catches the breeze to cool it as i have had one burn out recently.
Has anyone done this and where did you put it?

I'm also looking to buy the upgraded Rick's R/R stator and VFRness anyone know if the 'wire my bike' page is the only place to get these from as i can't get an answer on the Email.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 11:25 - 16 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Electrex world... They make MOSFET Reg-Recs.
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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myvision
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PostPosted: 13:43 - 16 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
Electrex world... They make MOSFET Reg-Recs.


I'm still reading up on this stuff as electrics are a black art to me but looks like i have a better bit of kit than the original.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 14:09 - 16 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

myvision wrote:
I'm still reading up on this stuff as electrics are a black art to me but looks like i have a better bit of kit than the original.


Yes, you hit the nail on the head there.
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 07:17 - 17 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The VFRness is not needed any more. It's an outdated solution to a problem that existed before mosfet r/r's came about. In fitting the 'fet you will run directly to the battery anyway.

You can certainly fit one if it makes you happy (I actually have one on my 6th gen from before I fitted a 'fet and just left it in) but it won't do anything that the wiring required for the 'fet already does.
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 07:21 - 17 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh and the Ricks stator isn't the be all and end all. OEM is still the better choice. VFR stators tend to burn out due to a slight design flaw with oil movement in the casing (Mine is on its third in 40k)
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 07:22 - 17 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh and finally, if you haven't already then a dash mounted voltmeter is a mandatory requirement for VFRs.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 08:55 - 17 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm dubious about the idea of moving a reg/rec out into the breeze. If it was a serious consideration bike manufacturers wouldn't hide them away in the first place. They're supposed to get hot, but if you're hoping to rely on additional airflow to keep them from failing there are far more effective ways. Primarily, clean, quality connections and wiring routed direct to the battery. My soldering is ok but I can't rely on it in this application so I found these ready-made kits, which are excellent:

https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R-R_Connectors/body_r-r_connectors.html#r-r-kits
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myvision
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PostPosted: 09:17 - 17 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

ADSrox0r wrote:
Oh and finally, if you haven't already then a dash mounted voltmeter is a mandatory requirement for VFRs.


I have fitted a voltmeter and an Electrex world R/R the wires to the stator are soldered and the black and red wires clipped into the original connection blocks which I presume go off to the original harness and back to the battery.

Readings are
Tickover no electrics on 13.8/13.9v
Tickover lights on 13.2/13.3v
high revs no electrics on 14.3v.
lights on high revs 14.0/14.2v
All electrics on including fan ticking over 12.9/13.1v (I did see a dip to 12.6v once)
All electrics on including fan high revs 13.5/13.9v

I tested the stator with the multimeter using instructions found online and the tests came back OK then I fitted the new R/R.

Do these numbers look good?

I'm beginning to think leave it now as those are OK am i right?
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 17:53 - 17 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
I'm dubious about the idea of moving a reg/rec out into the breeze. If it was a serious consideration bike manufacturers wouldn't hide them away in the first place.


Keeping the R/R cool significantly reduces the MTBF for them. There's a reason clued up riders carry a spare on long trips. The earlier (90's) ones were even worse. Primarily due (as you alluded to) to a connector shitting itself causing a chain reaction. I bypassed the loom and went straight to the Stator, and still have a shunt R/R.
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 21:06 - 17 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
I'm dubious about the idea of moving a reg/rec out into the breeze. If it was a serious consideration bike manufacturers wouldn't hide them away in the first place. They're supposed to get hot, but if you're hoping to rely on additional airflow to keep them from failing there are far more effective ways. Primarily, clean, quality connections and wiring routed direct to the battery. My soldering is ok but I can't rely on it in this application so I found these ready-made kits, which are excellent:

https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R-R_Connectors/body_r-r_connectors.html#r-r-kits


It's standard procedure on the 5th gen VFR, poor design placement meant it had no airflow to dissipate excess heat. Some people opt to fit a small 12V fan to the r/r instead of moving it which works just as well. Early diode r/r's really were just shit, if your stator was kicking out too much juice they just dump it as heat and heat kills diodes in short order.

I've always ditched the 3 pin connector to the stator and directly soldered, far more reliable and one less weak point in the chain.

Another known weak point is the short wire between the main fuse and the battery connection. They used the wrong gauge and it tends to melt, lob it out and put some decent beefy gauge wire in its place job done.
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myvision
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PostPosted: 09:22 - 03 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I heard a pop sound last night then noticed the clock and odometer had reset.
The voltages still look good on my meter with the highest of 14.2 when i went out for a quick test.

Any ideas or am i looking at fitting another R/R?
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 10:07 - 03 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

What`s the battery voltage the morning after or a week after not using or starting the bike providing the battery has good connections to the bike/frame?
Also have you checked the wiring / multi pin plug to the instrument cluster?
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myvision
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PostPosted: 13:53 - 03 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
What`s the battery voltage the morning after or a week after not using or starting the bike providing the battery has good connections to the bike/frame?
Also have you checked the wiring / multi pin plug to the instrument cluster?


I'll check the voltage tonight then I'll leave it till Monday evening and look again.
On the volt meter everything looked fine last night rev clock lights gone as well maybe it's linked.
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