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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:55 - 19 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
I guess you missed this posting John...

Riejufixing wrote:
Yes, wheel off, apply heat. I think you're very unlikely to be able to get the shank out by just turning the nut cold, since it's siezed tight enough to have the head shear off. Get the nut off, put the sheared side of the assembly down flat on whatever you use as an anvil, when it's hot, and strike the threaded end with a hammer to move it 1/2mm, then put it over a bigger nut or something to give space to drive it through (still hot).


Don't try beating on that broken bolt (they are a special shouldered bolt by the way so get one ordered now to save you waiting) or you'll bend the torque arm maybe even break the carier.. Heat the ally up with a heat gun until the paint starts bubbling (buy some paint ready) and you'll find that it will drive out easily but only if you follow the above advice. Personally I would remove the torque arm from the other end and put the whole assembly on the bench.

Also, next time you're un-doing a bolt and nut turn the nut - NOT THE BOLT. Same goes for tightening and using a torque wrench. Probably wouldn't have saved that one since it was so thoroughly seized but it'll stand you in good stead in the future.
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Wyberton John
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PostPosted: 21:21 - 19 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thanks for your reply and the info - though as I've mentioned, I can't remove the torque arm to work with it on the bench.

In 3 days it's going in for a major service - so having the parts ready isn't really necessary (and wouldn't be here in time if I did order them).

Also, unscrewing the nut would have had the same result - as the nut side sheared off as well as the bolt side. I've tried knocking it both ways - including after heating it up - though I didn't have it as hot as is probably necessary. I'm relustant to use my brazing torch due to the proximity of things like the brake pipe.

If I don't get it sorted tomorrow (I'd use a normal nut & bolt in the meantime, if I get the stud out) I'll just reassemble everything and get the workshop to sort it out during the servicing.

*Having discussed it with Mrs that's what I'll do. Means it'll cost more, but at least it will get done by someone who is qualified Smile
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Wyberton John
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 19 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
I'm also a bit mystified by what you say about the bolt used, when referring to the Yamaha parts diagram (part No.25):

https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-motorcycle/1000-MOTO/2004/FAZER/FZS1000-FAZER/REAR-WHEEL/20_1953-1953/B31/0/6017
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 23:14 - 19 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
Wyberton John wrote:
Some progress and a further kick in the nuts today - recorded the sesh:

https://youtu.be/9rIz2cIWu8w

Drilling it tomorrow and hopefully that will be it, sorted. Spent the rest of the day cleaning up all the parts.


Supporting the stay with your leg and a batten isn't enough, it will give, hold a lump hammer or other hard weight against the other side to take the blow, use a hollow spacer like a nut to let the bolt run into when you drift out the bolt shank. You might need a friend to hold the hammer/nut against the back of the broken-off bolt.

Last edited by Riejufixing on 08:44 - 20 May 2019; edited 1 time in total
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 23:18 - 19 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
Wyberton John wrote:
e. I've tried knocking it both ways - including after heating it up - though I didn't have it as hot as is probably necessary. I'm relustant to use my brazing torch due to the proximity of things like the brake pipe.


You need to knock the bolt shank out when the area is still hot, ideally hot enough so that spit will (just) bounce off. That pencil torch might not be enough to heat the area enough, unsure.

Last edited by Riejufixing on 08:46 - 20 May 2019; edited 1 time in total
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 06:57 - 20 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
Why don't you just undo the banjo bolt on the rear caliper and remove the whole arm so you can attack it properly on a solid surface at an angle of your own choosing. If you're worried about having to refill the brake line just get a brake line clamp and bleed it after reconnecting.
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Wyberton John
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PostPosted: 14:37 - 20 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
As I said in the video, I'll let the workshop sort it out. Not gonna fall out on the way there, so no worries.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 18:59 - 20 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
Wyberton John wrote:
As I said in the video, I'll let the workshop sort it out. Not gonna fall out on the way there, so no worries.


That's actually a very good way of unseizing seized components.... loosen them off, then go around the block...
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 20:55 - 20 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
If the torque arm bolts are that badly seized,how did you ever adjust the chain tension? Thinking
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Wyberton John
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PostPosted: 23:05 - 20 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
If you read the posts and see the vid, you'd see how. Wink
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Wyberton John
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PostPosted: 11:09 - 21 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
Riejufixing wrote:
Wyberton John wrote:
As I said in the video, I'll let the workshop sort it out. Not gonna fall out on the way there, so no worries.


That's actually a very good way of unseizing seized components.... loosen them off, then go around the block...


Yeah, it would be - if the durn thing wasn't prectically welded to the centre part (the caliper carrier).

Although it was just a quick test to check the chain & sprockets were okay - it's a 35 mile ride to the Yamaha workshop and I don't want to be stuck along the way. If it were to come off, however unlikely, I don't see how it could possible cause any problem and isn't dangerous, so not the slightest concern here - I'm not exactly going to be Marquezing it to the workshop Wink
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iooi
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PostPosted: 18:34 - 21 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
Wyberton John wrote:
T(don't think the previous owner bothered with a torque wrench or being careful - seems he overtightened every bolt I have removed from the thing).


Looking at the state of the bike.... It's more of a case of lack of maintenance. Embarassed
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Wyberton John
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 21 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
Fuck you too Wink

I do as much as I can - being a disabled biker and I took the fuckin thing apart probably more than any twat in the past and cleaned and repaired shit - just look at the posts here and on FB, and that's a micro-part of the story.

Check before you insult people. Mind you - makes you no different from most of the tossers on the internet these days.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 01:58 - 22 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
Wyberton John wrote:
Check

For?
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iooi
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 22 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
Wyberton John wrote:
Fuck you too Wink

I do as much as I can - being a disabled biker and I took the fuckin thing apart probably more than any twat in the past and cleaned and repaired shit - just look at the posts here and on FB, and that's a micro-part of the story.

Check before you insult people. Mind you - makes you no different from most of the tossers on the internet these days.


Touchy.... Embarassed

Given you are blaming the previous owner for the problems....

Having owned bikes since the 70's. You tend to find that nuts & bolts seen to get tighter over age, even if never touched.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 4 years, 338 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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