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Suzuki GS500 Oil Filter nut spinning

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dan.porter15
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 23 Jun 2015
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PostPosted: 11:52 - 10 Aug 2019    Post subject: Suzuki GS500 Oil Filter nut spinning Reply with quote

Hi all,

Just attempted to remove my oil filter and one of the nuts is just spinning: https://imgur.com/a/DDuBPSG

I'm assuming the nut is stuck to the bolt. I've tried to wedge a screwdriver under it and using a socket to get it off with no luck, also tried getting some pliers on it and twisting/pulling.

Done a bit of googling and seems to be a common problem with these bikes, but other posts seem to have got the nut off which I'm not having much luck with.

Any ideas?
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Riejufixing
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 14:10 - 10 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you get a nut splitter on it (or even the jaws of a bolt cropper)? If not, is it possible to support the nut on one side (with e.g. a hammer head) while you drive a (sharp) cold chisel into it from the other? You split the thing "across", by the way, from one side to the other.

8< #////=====

8< Bolt cropper
# Nut
/ threads
= bolt
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dan.porter15
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 23 Jun 2015
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PostPosted: 18:03 - 10 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for your response, I managed to get it off by wedging a screwdriver under the oil filter cover, and slowly bringing the nut out with a socket.

My issue now is the thread has been completely chewed off, I'm struggling to get the stud out: https://imgur.com/a/kYOv4ZI

Attempted to stick two nuts on and lock them together to bring it out, but as you can see from the photos there's not a lot of thread for the nuts to grab. Mole grips and pliers don't seem to work either, and I'm at a bit of a loss again.

I don't own a dremel or anything like that to try get it off that way, and my nearest shop which would sell one (halfords, which is a bus journey away Rolling Eyes ) is shut now.

Any clever methods of getting these things off that doesn't involve power tools? Very Happy
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 18:29 - 10 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you got heat (e.g. a gas torch), and some small stillsons, or a Footprint pipe wrench? If so, heat up the stud and surrounding area, and wind it out.

If you have a welder, weld a nut on, and go on that.

Perhaps someone nearby has such things, if you don't?
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dan.porter15
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Joined: 23 Jun 2015
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PostPosted: 18:45 - 10 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Didn't have a torch so used a BBQ lighter Razz but seemed to do the trick!

Here's an after image of the stud... it's pretty bad

https://imgur.com/a/ppcrlDx

Thanks!
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BusterGonads
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 08:18 - 11 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can 'feel' your relief as that stud started to come out.

I expect most of us have been there and felt the sickening grief as that sort of problem unfolded and then - sometimes - the uplift of relief as the solution unfolded.

I keep looking at the corroded, horrible threads sticking out of the exhaust nut on the exhaust port of my beater CG125 and wondering how it will be next time I need to take that exhaust off. The bike isn't worth anything much, and it is one of three, so I won't be bikeless if things go wrong, but I think I know it is going to be a bastard when I want it out. I'm thinking I should get some penetrating oil on it now, and when it is out, I might renew the stud and in future make sure I have graphite on those threads. Graphite is one of the few lubricants that will stand that kind of heat and still work as intended when the time comes to remove the nut or the stud. Come to think of it, I think last time I had it off, it was teh stud that came out, and I don't like that either because the aluminium will wear out and lead to a world of misery.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 15:56 - 11 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

dan.porter15 wrote:
Didn't have a torch so used a BBQ lighter Razz but seemed to do the trick!

Here's an after image of the stud... it's pretty bad

https://imgur.com/a/ppcrlDx

Thanks!


https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FtTc9cKQ.gif&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2Fgallery%2FtTc9cKQ&tbnid=SfBI3kH865eqRM&vet=1&docid=9dP-RKhw-ahbTM&w=196&h=181&source=sh%2Fx%2Fim
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 11 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Couple of other alternatives for exhaust studs. One is to use a LONG nut that covers all the thread. Honda used to do this a lot in the 90's and it worked well. They had special extra-long chromed steel flange nuts just for the job.

Another is to use a brass nut that will a) Not corrode much anyway and b) Strip out well before the steel threads on the stud get damaged.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:12 - 11 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Couple of other alternatives for exhaust studs. One is to use a LONG nut that covers all the thread. Honda used to do this a lot in the 90's and it worked well. They had special extra-long chromed steel flange nuts just for the job.

Another is to use a brass nut that will a) Not corrode much anyway and b) Strip out well before the steel threads on the stud get damaged.


And don't do the fcukirz up too tight when fitting the manifold. Rolling Eyes
Sound and Clean threads and possibly some moly paste.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 16:29 - 11 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Another is to use a brass nut that will a) Not corrode much anyway and b) Strip out well before the steel threads on the stud get damaged.

Brass nuts have generally been used on exhaust studs. I have heard advice to "tighten until they just start to squeak"! However I would recommend sticking to normal practice.

Copper, copper-coated steel or bronze nuts, which can make corrosion worse, should be avoided.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:41 - 11 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.rocol.com/news/anti-seize-product-selection

Info.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 16:56 - 11 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
https://www.rocol.com/news/anti-seize-product-selection

Info.

I've got some of the old version of that, which contains lead and is poisonous. You can't get it now. I'd hope that the new lead-free stuff is just as good. It's excellent for anti-sieze purposes (I think I've mentioned it before in BCF).
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MCN
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PostPosted: 17:44 - 11 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
MCN wrote:
https://www.rocol.com/news/anti-seize-product-selection

Info.

I've got some of the old version of that, which contains lead and is poisonous. You can't get it now. I'd hope that the new lead-free stuff is just as good. It's excellent for anti-sieze purposes (I think I've mentioned it before in BCF).


It's a bit like buying a dog.

Too many varieties to just guess and take any pup.

I rarely use a copper based anti-seize now as the moly types are far superior and more stable.

Another point of note is when any lube is used on a fastener the pressure exerted on the parts is drastically increased and even the fastener can fail due to excess loading. Some specs state no lube for that reason.
Specifically soft aluminium alloy parts that will crush under the pressure applied by the bolts.
That's why tightening carefully is advised.
Torque specs are useful for those that do not know what tight means. (You know? The people who do up a drain plug like its holding the earth on its axis. Rolling Eyes )
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 20:43 - 11 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Riejufixing wrote:

I've got some of the old version of that, which contains lead and is poisonous. You can't get it now. I'd hope that the new lead-free stuff is just as good. It's excellent for anti-sieze purposes (I think I've mentioned it before in BCF).

I rarely use a copper based anti-seize now as the moly types are far superior and more stable.

They're generally designed for ;lubricating sliding surfaces, though; CV joints is a very good example. Anti-sieze compounds are for preventing siezing of fasteners and galling when things are bolted up or undone. I've heard that they can be used on steam gaskets too, but I've never come across that application, Mr PB might've.

MCN wrote:
Another point of note is when any lube is used on a fastener the pressure exerted on the parts is drastically increased and even the fastener can fail due to excess loading. Some specs state no lube for that reason.
Specifically soft aluminium alloy parts that will crush under the pressure applied by the bolts.
That's why tightening carefully is advised.

Yes, of course. However, many people will be aware that lubricating fasteners increases their "pull" for a given torque. There's no need to do up manifold nuts, spark plugs, etc. very tight. As they say: "you can't make a gas-tight seal more gas-tight".

MCN wrote:
Torque specs are useful for those that do not know what tight means. (You know? The people who do up a drain plug like its holding the earth on its axis. Rolling Eyes )

Ah. I guess that's a reference to my Scudo's sump plug. "National" have a lot to answer for. I used to know the bloke at my local branch, but he's buzzed off down to Devon. They've also dented the underside of a previous car of mine, and shredded the rack and pinion bellows by not releasing it when undoing/doing up the track rod end. If I go & get a new tyre, I take off the wheel trims first, so they can't eff them up too. Disgraceful.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 00:23 - 12 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
Yes, of course. However, many people will be aware that lubricating fasteners increases their "pull" for a given torque. There's no need to do up manifold nuts, spark plugs, etc. very tight. As they say: "you can't make a gas-tight seal more gas-tight".


Wise words. And conversely "is it under pressure? is it under load? get out the torque wrench, look up the specs"
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BusterGonads
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 07:17 - 12 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few years back, I bought a little bottle of graphite powder for lubing locks. It is a very very fine powder - dust really. I'm thinking of mixing some with a bit of grease for threads like exhaust studs. Graphite is an excellent high temperature lubricant. The grease would evaporate and burn away, but the graphite wouldn't and it is very slippery stuff.
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