A discussion on oil

[someone]

[someone]

[weasley]

[someone]

[someone]

SO which is better to siphon the old oil, or use the drain plug .
or how about unbolting the crankcase and let drip for a few days ...
and if i use a 50usd x brand filter will i protect my engine better .

Now am trolling
____________________
EJ6 FOREVER AND FOREVER A HUNDRED YEARS EJ6.

[Riejufixing]

[someone]

[weasley]

[weasley]

[Fizzer Thou]

[MCN]

[weasley]

[MCN]

I would be concerned if the bike oil was black.
I drain at 6k miles and the stuff that comes out could go straight back in (after screening through an auld sock).

Black oil indicates carbon in the oil. due to poor combustion of the fuel.
Or a substantial mechanical event where oil was/is being burned.

Diesel engines blacken their oil more easily due to characteristic un-burned fuel dissolving in the oil.
More modern Diesels waste less fuel so blackening from carbon is less of a problem.

And mechanical catastrophe will blacken the oil too.

Big machines that hold over, for example, £1000 worth of oil, use more sophisticated change indicators.

A critical factor in Diesel engine oil is the acidity. If the oil becomes acidic it dissolves the iron of the engine. The acid can soak into the block and weaken the structure.
The acid is produced by combustion of Diesel fuel that has a sulphur content. Depending on where the oil is found has some bearing on sulphur content. It is a part of the conversion of old sea creatures to hydro-carbon oil over millions of years. The decomposition gasses are part of what is found down there. Methane et al.

For big Diesels: Litres of fuel used and Diesel fuel quality calculation can help determine change intervals.
Or, more accurately, oil sampling, to determine oil condition.
Oil sampling can also show potential failure if wear metal trends are monitored as part of the oil analysis.
Other measures to extend oil life are water boilers, absorbent filters and time-release additive packs to maintain acidity (TBN - another discussion.)
Sampling can also flag other conditions in the engine such as plugged air filters, over heating or coolant leaks into the oil.
____________________
Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[Old Git Racing]

TZ was every meeting, castrol R30. YPVS race bike, every other meeting, silkolene light gear oil. YPVS road bike, every 3000m, Silkolene light gear oil. BMW R1150R every 5000m, it uses a bit so it probably gets half a change in top ups. My self employed mates truck - about every 100k, the oil is very very expensive.

OGR

P.S. this thread has been very interesting, thanks for all the sensible contributions.
____________________
2022 Tiger Sport 660 2019 Street Twin 2003 K3 gixxer 1000 1998 Srad 600 track hack

[someone]

dude as i said many times befor am not an oil engineer and not even a mechinical engineer am a civil engineer who loves engines.

for the salt thing as i didnt know it might be a marketing thing for marine oil "suprior salt protection " is being stated alot on those cans , but since its a sticker thing , it might be false idk

i mentioned engines because carb and gdi will always leak petrol past the piston rings ,the new honda suffer from this issue.

As for engine electronics a damaged varible timing system is mostly due to old oil .

Trannys suffer from that as well


i will not get into poltics as eu is pushing for something or whatever.car manufuctures dont care about you after the warrinty is done , all they care about is that every 5 years you buy a new car . thats why alot of the parts had been made of plastic in recent years.

i can tolrate a plastic intake manifold , but a plastic water pump is pushing it.

As for my self ,they company i work for we work in remote areas drilling wells in middlle of no where .

our vechiles even though are newish 2015-above are very reiable with 500,000+ on the dash and still reiable as new. all with original engine and tranny .

Every 3500-5000km change oil , every 6 months we change all fluids. its part of our preventive maintenance.

i used the same rule of thumb for my personal stuff , so its 3500-500 km for engine oil or depending on the color, and every 1 year for all other fluids .

and my vechiles are all happy .

i buy oil bulk or bulkish

Again oil is cheap , engines are not .
____________________
EJ6 FOREVER AND FOREVER A HUNDRED YEARS EJ6.

[Easy-X]

I always go "panning for swarf" when I do an oil change. Thankfully I've only found some after a top end rebuild - to be expected - helps to do it on a sunny day so any bits catch the light
____________________
Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[someone]

this is from our friend BOB The oil guy .

as for the dirty oil and sludge if you own a dodge then you should be extra carefull with sludge problems of old oil . thats why i started overchanging the oil

article starts here:

The 3,000-mile or 3-month oil change has long been the standard in the United States, and has served Americans well. Over the last decade, however, there has been a gradual shift away from this traditional oil change interval. But maintaining a 3,000-mile or 3-month schedule is cheap insurance and many motorists would do well to retain it. Let's answer some questions about this robust maintenance regimen.

Q: How often should I change my oil?

A: Every three months or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first. It's cheap insurance.

Q: Do you actually know anybody who drives less than 3,000 miles in three months?

A: One guy. He drives about 200 miles a month, and takes the public transit system the rest of the time.

Q: So this guy should change his oil, even though it only has 600 miles on it?

A: You never know what could have happened to the oil while it was just sitting there. It's cheap insurance.

Q: At 200 miles a month, wouldn't it be cheaper to just rent a car?

A: We're getting off topic here.

Q: My owner's manual doesn't say anything about 3,000-mile oil changes. It says to go longer than that.

A: Car manufacturers are in the business of selling cars, and they believe if they can make your engine wear out prematurely, you'll go back to them for another car. The 3,000-mile interval is cheap insurance against this.

Q: Well, the car has an oil life monitor that tells me when to change the oil. Can't I go by that?

A: How can the car possibly know what's going on in the oil? They make those things go too long for the same reason they print inflated numbers in the owner's manual.

Q: Actually, I think they use a complex mathematical model tailored to the specific engine and oil type, which uses input from the variables measured by the engine computer such as RPM and operating temperature.

A: And you TRUST them?

Q: But if the engine fails prematurely, doesn't the manufacturer eat the cost of repairs during the warranty period?

A: Oh but it won't fail until the car is outside the warranty period.

Q: So how is that a premature failure?

A: It won't be TOO far outside the warranty period, you can be sure of that.

Q: Okay, so car manufacturers carefully craft their oil recommendations specifically so that the engine fails after the warranty period so they don't have to pay for it, but not too far after the warranty period so consumers will come back to them for another car, instead of buying from a competitor that doesn't yank them around like this?

A: They ALL do it. And the 3,000-mile interval is cheap insurance against it.

Q: You're saying that if your engine blows up with 60,000 miles on it, you'll go back to the same manufacturer for another car?

A: My engine will never blow up, because I'm using a 3,000-mile interval.

Q: Can I switch to synthetic oil?

A: Sure. Synthetics offer many technological advances, including superior viscosity stability, better extreme-temperature performance, higher levels of acid neutralization ability, more shear strength, improved film cling, and of course slight improvements in fuel economy and horsepower in some engines. Great stuff, synthetics.

Q: So how often should I change the synthetic oil?

A: Every three months or 3,000 miles. Even with synthetics, it's cheap insurance.

Q: Um, the stuff costs two to three times what conventional oil costs. That's cheap insurance?

A: Compared to how much it would cost to buy an engine, it's cheap.

Q: What evidence is there to show that running extended drains on synthetic oil will cause the engine to fail?

A: I don't have any, because I've never had an engine fail, because I change the oil every 3,000 miles. Now that's what I call cheap insurance!

Q: Uncountable studies performed by auto manufacturers, oil producers, industry analysts, and research groups like the SAE, both here and in Europe, have shown that synthetic oil can hold up for extended drain intervals. Why shouldn't I have some faith in this body of evidence?

A: You don't see anything on the bottle about extended drains, do you? They all say to follow manufacturer recommendations.

Q: You don't think that has anything to do with the litigous attitude in the U.S., and the oil companies' efforts to cover their butts from every idiot who runs his oil-burning 1986 Dodge Caravan completely dry?

A: What?

Q: Never mind. Amsoil says right on the bottle that you can run extended intervals.

A: And you TRUST them??

Q: Er, I thought you said--

A: Best to stick with 3,000-mile intervals. Cheap insurance.

Q: Isn't it wasteful to get rid of perfectly good synthetic oil at 3,000 miles?

A: There's plenty of oil to be had, and it's cheap insurance.

Q: There's plenty of beer to be had, but you don't drink half the bottle and pour the rest down the drain.

A: Oil isn't beer.

Q: Here's a hypothetical question. Each year, Americans consume 640 million gallons of motor oil. Even if we just went from your 3,000-mile interval to a 5,000-mile interval, that'd save 256 million gallons of oil. Most estimates for oil recycling peg the amount of recycled motor oil at no better than half, so even with the most generous estimate we'd still save 128 million gallons of oil pollution. In other words, if everyone increased their oil change interval by 2,000 miles, we'd save the nation the equivalent of 13 Exxon Valdez accidents each year. Isn't that a worthwhile goal?

A: MY oil gets recycled.

Q: That's not the point. If you use a quality oil, it seems like you could extend your drain intervals by a little bit, helping to reduce pollution and lower your operating costs at the same time.

A: I've never lost an engine using the 3,000-mile interval.

Q: You've never lost an engine using a 5,000-mile interval either.

A: Look, it's just cheap insurance.

Q: Do you wear a helmet in the shower? After all, there are over 110,000 bathtub and shower injuries per year. At 30 bucks, a helmet would be cheap insurance.

A:

Q: Hello?

A: Go away.
____________________
EJ6 FOREVER AND FOREVER A HUNDRED YEARS EJ6.

[Easy-X]

tl;dr can it actually hurt to change oil more often?

While I enjoy a bit of bike maintenance you do have to consider actually riding the bike at some point maybe even just for fun?!
____________________
Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[MCN]

[MCN]

[someone]

MCN jesus the guy had done hunderds maybe thousdends of used and virgin oil testing, he is like an oil god .

No it doesnt hurt the engine to change the oil more often,
maybe the drain plug but the engine.....NO

as for the cost !!
find a wholesale supplier and pass the savings for family and friends.
drums are the cheapest but people hate getting oil from drums
i usully buy a couple of cartoons of 4 or 5 liters , i give my family free oil and pass to friends at cost price which is 20-30% cheaper than retail,

and everyone is happy !

if i was anywhere near uk i would give 5 pounds worth of oil
hell i will change your bike oil for free!

[Easy-X]

Okay... this is thread is starting to go a bit pete tong

With regard to more frequent oil changes while I can see there's something to be said for accidentally damaging the sump plug threads etc. I think the main problem I'd have is the over consumption of resources.

Even if I could get engine oil for free I still wouldn't drain and refill after every ride! Surely the responsible thing is to try and get as much use out of the oil without doing too much damage to the engine. Yes, the oil could be mostly recycled but that still requires time and energy.

Maybe someone could tell me if I only change oil once a year I'll end up doing a top end rebuild in 5 years time but if I change oil every six months I can put that off till 10 years time? Then you could do a cost analysis but the real world is rarely that mathematically certain.
____________________
Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Courier265]

My mechanic buys Q8 semi synthetic in bulk which is used in all 3 of my
bikes, because of my job the oil gets changed every 3 or 4 thousand
miles. So I have about 6 oil changes a year and it's more expensive now
because all 3 bikes have an oil filter to change. (My previous CB250
didn't have an external oil filter)
____________________
CBF500 - 2 x Inazuma 250

[Nobby the Bastard]

[MCN]