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Yamaha YBR 125 Custom (Starting problems)

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Englewood
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PostPosted: 19:01 - 16 Aug 2019    Post subject: Yamaha YBR 125 Custom (Starting problems) Reply with quote

Hello, I Hope you can help.

I have a problem with my yamaha 125, the bike is struggling to start.

When the bike does start the revs drop and the bikes cuts out, i thought it might off been a bad battery so bought a new one but same thing happend.

The volatge across the battery is 12.4V engine off. When the engine is idle the volatge is around the same, i assumed i should be getting around 14V when the engine is running from the alternator?.

When i rev the bike to 5000 revs the battery volatge stays around 12.5 -13v

Ive checked the voltage on the alternators poles, they are all different from each other reading 80v to 6v AC. (need to check again)

The bike will keep running but struggles to start still, had to push it home the other day Sad.

Could my alternator be dead?.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 19:56 - 16 Aug 2019    Post subject: Re: Yamaha YBR 125 Custom (Starting problems) Reply with quote

Englewood wrote:
Hello, I Hope you can help.

I have a problem with my yamaha 125, the bike is struggling to start.

When the bike does start the revs drop and the bikes cuts out, i thought it might off been a bad battery so bought a new one but same thing happend.

The volatge across the battery is 12.4V engine off. When the engine is idle the volatge is around the same, i assumed i should be getting around 14V when the engine is running from the alternator?.

When i rev the bike to 5000 revs the battery volatge stays around 12.5 -13v

Ive checked the voltage on the alternators poles, they are all different from each other reading 80v to 6v AC. (need to check again)

The bike will keep running but struggles to start still, had to push it home the other day Sad.

Could my alternator be dead?.


Maybe the regulator?
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Englewood
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 16 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ill check it Sunday. Thanks.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 00:01 - 17 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried jump leads?
Are the battery / leads connected to the bike?
The 3 a/c phase readings should be approx the same.
You could try 3 resistance readings.
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Englewood
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PostPosted: 08:28 - 17 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

No dont need to use jump leads as when have a full battery the bike starts 1st time but after riding the bike it struggles to start from the electric start but i can get it to start from the kick start.

Its a new battery, im going to check the Alternator readings tomorrow.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 11:20 - 17 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking at a typical YBR 125 wiring the "magneto" has two wires going off to the "regulator" which then goes off to the rest of the bike electrics.

Disconnect the regulator and check the voltage coming off the magneto. Are you getting a nice range of AC voltage as you rev the engine?

At this point it would be nice to just connect the magneto side to the regulator and see what DC is being produced by the latter (if any) in isolation.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 17 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

It screams reg/rec - they do go on these. I had to replace one on a 5yr old bike. No idea what the OEM part number is, but I replaced it with a SH640D-12, and crimped (properly) standard Lucar spades on. It's been bomber ever since, still doing CBT duty at the local training school I sold the bike to.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 17 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reg/rec
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Englewood
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PostPosted: 12:59 - 18 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

So so ive tested the Rectifier.

Seems ok to me - used diode test on the multimeter.

Negative lead to Neg then positive to diode = 0L on each.
Positive lead to Neg the negative lead to diode = 0.5V on each.

checked resistance on 3 phases of stator all 0.7 OHMS.

??
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Last edited by Englewood on 13:26 - 18 Aug 2019; edited 1 time in total
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 13:08 - 18 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the voltage across the battery doesn't change when you start the bike, the charging circuit isn't working.

If you've tested the compenents qnd they seem fine check the wiring.
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Englewood
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PostPosted: 13:25 - 18 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Nobby.

The fuel pump doesnt seem to kick in when i turn the ignition on, the zzzzz sound isnt there anymore.
12.8V acorss the battery.

Fuses are ok, just 2 :-O.

Wiring check next.


Ok, so the bike finally started somehow, ive checked the voltages on the output of the stator (Alternator) and they are all different, 24V/ 16V/ 6V (AC).

When bike is running battery stays at 12.2V, rev bike for a 1 min at 5k revs battery voltage stays the same, i should have 14v from the alternator acorss the battery but i dont!.

So i presume my stator is dead.!
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 14:41 - 18 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Disconnect the rectifier and measure the voltage on the non stator side. There should be two sets of plugs, one with three wires and one with two.

You need to unplug the two wire one and measure across that and leave the three wire one alone).
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Englewood
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 18 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

What voltage should i get across the 2 wires? AC or DC?.

Do you mean the other 2 wires that are connected to the battery from the rec? 11.8 V across them.

Sorry im not sure what you mean, i have 290 ohms across the two wires in the attachment no volatge was reading.

From the 3 wires you told me to forget, if the REC is connected i get 11.8V/13.7V and 4.5V.
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Last edited by Englewood on 18:48 - 18 Aug 2019; edited 2 times in total
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 18 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see you tested the resistance between the three white phase wires from the stator (at 0.7 ohms)
but no mention of the resistance from these wires to ground.
This should be in the megaohms region or off the scale on every wire.

If they've shorted to ground you could easily still get the same 0.7 ohm reading between any pair but no output.

Voltage readings are of limited use in that you'll still get some open circuit AC voltage from the windings when spinning the engine over but when in circuit, bugger all current.
(if they've shorted to ground)

Do a proper resistance test first
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Englewood
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PostPosted: 18:02 - 18 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
I see you tested the resistance between the three white phase wires from the stator (at 0.7 ohms)
but no mention of the resistance from these wires to ground.
This should be in the megaohms region or off the scale on every wire.

If they've shorted to ground you could easily still get the same 0.7 ohm reading between any pair but no output.

Voltage readings are of limited use in that you'll still get some open circuit AC voltage from the windings when spinning the engine over but when in circuit, bugger all current.
(if they've shorted to ground)

Do a proper resistance test first


I used my home DVM and i got OL readings. (To Ground)
I used my work DVM Fluke set to auto OHMs and i got readings in Mega OHMs but then when to OL. (To Ground)

Thanks
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Englewood
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PostPosted: 20:34 - 18 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fuel pump doesnt kick in beacuse the battery voltage was too low.

The bike starts fine with a fully charged NEW battery but the battery drops when the bike is idle.

The voltage does increase across the battery when reving the bike to 5k but slowly and only to 13v.

When i first bought the bike when the bike was idle the voltage across the battery was 14v. idle

The rectifer diodes are fine - triple checked this.

The AC outputs from the rotor dont seem correct, as ive seen a few videos showing they should be all within the same range of voltage.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 22:03 - 18 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to be clear: with the rectifier/regulator NOT connected to the battery what voltage are you getting on the AC side and what voltage on the DC side a) while idling and b) with some revs?
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 00:37 - 19 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Englewood wrote:
So so ive tested the Rectifier.

Seems ok to me - used diode test on the multimeter.

Negative lead to Neg then positive to diode = 0L on each.
Positive lead to Neg the negative lead to diode = 0.5V on each.

checked resistance on 3 phases of stator all 0.7 OHMS.

??



Hmmm
not sure what you're doing with that test
Its a 3 phase stator so has 6 diodes.

My RR test goes likes this
disconnect RR
meter set to diode test
Red probe to each white lead in turn with black probe clamped to DC out.
Expect 0.5V across each diode
then
Red probe clamped to earth lead, black probe to each white lead in turn
Expect about 0.5v across each diode
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Englewood
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PostPosted: 07:26 - 19 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Englewood wrote:
So so ive tested the Rectifier.

Seems ok to me - used diode test on the multimeter.

Negative lead to Neg then positive to diode = 0L on each.
Positive lead to Neg the negative lead to diode = 0.5V on each.

checked resistance on 3 phases of stator all 0.7 OHMS.

??



Hmmm
not sure what you're doing with that test
Its a 3 phase stator so has 6 diodes.

My RR test goes likes this
disconnect RR
meter set to diode test
Red probe to each white lead in turn with black probe clamped to DC out.
Expect 0.5V across each diode
then
Red probe clamped to earth lead, black probe to each white lead in turn
Expect about 0.5v across each diode


Sorry ive tested the REC by reversing the polarity on each phase, on the plus and neg side of the conection for the battery

Reads was 0.5/0L, no other readings shown.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 20:29 - 19 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Englewood wrote:


ive tested the REC by reversing the polarity on each phase, on the plus and neg side of the conection for the battery

Reads was 0.5/0L, no other readings shown.


Huh ?
Not sure what that means
Assuming the RR diodes are good,
a previous post of yours suggests the stator windings have burnt out and are shorting together rather than to ground.
easy to test if this is so

Fowlers have them in stock £251
Not sure if that includes VAT or not

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/6410852/yb125spd-ybr125-27s1-2008-060-a/generator
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:43 - 19 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Englewood wrote:


ive tested the REC by reversing the polarity on each phase, on the plus and neg side of the conection for the battery

Reads was 0.5/0L, no other readings shown.


Huh ?
Not sure what that means
Assuming the RR diodes are good,
a previous post of yours suggests the stator windings have burnt out and are shorting together rather than to ground.
easy to test if this is so

Fowlers have them in stock £251
Not sure if that includes VAT or not

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/6410852/yb125spd-ybr125-27s1-2008-060-a/generator


Yep, the three coils should be much the same resistance. The fact that they aren't indicates internal shorts.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 00:52 - 20 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

"""Reg/rec"""

"""If the voltage across the battery doesn't change when you start the bike, the charging circuit isn't working."""

""""If you've tested the compenents qnd they seem fine check the wiring"""".

""""Yep, the three coils should be much the same resistance. The fact that they aren't indicates internal shorts."""

WHAT NEXT NODDY?????
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 17:09 - 20 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
"""Reg/rec"""

"""If the voltage across the battery doesn't change when you start the bike, the charging circuit isn't working."""

""""If you've tested the compenents qnd they seem fine check the wiring"""".

""""Yep, the three coils should be much the same resistance. The fact that they aren't indicates internal shorts."""

WHAT NEXT NODDY?????


Reg/rec and the coils are the charging system and so technically I only suggested two potential problems and then stated that if everything was fine it could be a broken wire.

They are the three things that could potencially be at fault and now he's given the reistances etc of all the components potentially it'sa narrowed down to the stator.

Now stop being a cunt and fuck off, Mr 'No bike should tick over at higher than 900 revs.'
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Englewood
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PostPosted: 20:58 - 21 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well i got a second hand Stator off Flea Bay and we are back up and running.

Thanks guys, till next time Smile.
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