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Mapp Torch brazing - experiences?

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A100man
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 20 Aug 2019    Post subject: Mapp Torch brazing - experiences? Reply with quote

Might need to repair a crack in an exhaust flange.

Haven't ever brazed before (a bit of MIG work only) and I don't have any kit. I see though you can buy cheap Mapp compatible torches from ebay and the gas form toolstation.

Anyone done similar? and what filler rod did you use??

Cheers
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 19:32 - 20 Aug 2019    Post subject: Re: Mapp Torch brazing - experiences? Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
Might need to repair a crack in an exhaust flange.

Haven't ever brazed before (a bit of MIG work only) and I don't have any kit. I see though you can buy cheap Mapp compatible torches from ebay and the gas form toolstation.

Anyone done similar? and what filler rod did you use??

Similar, yes; same, no. I have a brazing torch that runs off an arc welder. 6mm carbon arc brazing rods need about 30A, 8mm not much more. The flame produced is at least as hot as oxyacetylene. You use "sifbronze" flux and bronze brazing rods. I need more carbon pencils, unsure where to get them, they are not the same as "gouging rods".

Works very well. Use a welding helmet and cover up to avoid "sunburn".

MAPP gas tepmperature is a lot lower I think. You'll need flux for the job as well as bronze brazing rods.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYnsCXVsJsw&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kxw6Y5B7XTQ


Last edited by Riejufixing on 19:48 - 20 Aug 2019; edited 1 time in total
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 20 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MAPP works for brazing - even the new wannabe MAPP works. Getting a torch tip that's focused enough is the key, most will have a wide tip and you'll struggle to get enough heat into a small area.

Cherry red is what you want. Flux is your friend. Ideally, shove it in an oven afterwards, and let it cool slowly, cast stuff likes to crack if it's thermally "shocked". Hot sand (disposable BBQ and tinfoil) also works.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 13:37 - 21 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might want to drill a hole at the end of the existing crack to stop it spreading.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 12:56 - 22 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks chaps - I guess we're not talking plumbers flux here are we?

This kind of stuff perhaps..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SILVER-BRAZING-SOLDER-FLUX-KIT-55-silver-Just-add-heat-5-x-200mm-rods/183864842166

Crack is in downpipe/flange not a casting so not sure about hole drilling
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 13:37 - 22 Aug 2019    Post subject: rods Reply with quote

seen sifbronze rods on ebay with a pack of the pink coloured sifbronze flux.

tubs of sifbronze flux available from welding suppliers as are the rods, seperately......

seen the narrower flamed mapp gas burners on ebay and saving for one, the wider plummers blowtourch i have is not concentrated enough for brazing up a pin hole in a tank so soldered it instead, but yours is an exhaust pipe.......a header so will get quite hot, but hopefully not hot enough to affect the brazing repair.

maybe better to mig weld it....post a picture....
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Robby
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PostPosted: 17:31 - 22 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I've done it lots of times.

Use MAPP gas, the other stuff for blowtorches isn't quite hot enough. Flux-coated rods make it easier, I got a load of them on ebay. The ones from halfords are good too.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 17:56 - 22 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
Thanks chaps - I guess we're not talking plumbers flux here are we?

This kind of stuff perhaps..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SILVER-BRAZING-SOLDER-FLUX-KIT-55-silver-Just-add-heat-5-x-200mm-rods/183864842166

Crack is in downpipe/flange not a casting so not sure about hole drilling


Your link shows silver solder, but you want bronze brazing rods which have a higher melting point and give a stronger joint. One brand used to be SIF; Sifbronze rods, Sifbronze flux.

If your flange is cracked, can't it be welded?
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 22 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was presuming this was cast iron, which often cracks.
What is the thing made of?

Steel = weld
Cast or grey iron = braze
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 22:57 - 22 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
Steel = weld
Cast or grey iron = braze

OP sayeth " Crack is in downpipe/flange not a casting so not sure about hole drilling"
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A100man
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PostPosted: 23:45 - 22 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes it's steel. Wire feed is buggered on my Sealey Mig (well the one I have access too) I replaced the torch liner but still no dice so I've sidelined it - in any case I'd probably just have blown a hole in it Rolling Eyes

Thought brazing my prove an interesting thing to try and can be used to mess about with push bike frames too I'm told.

Will look out for sibronze rods then..

Cheers
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 09:27 - 23 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does wire feed ok if you remove the tip?
Use thinner wire for thinner metal, a flange is thick enough for 0.6mm.
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Last edited by Hong Kong Phooey on 15:19 - 23 Aug 2019; edited 1 time in total
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 10:23 - 23 Aug 2019    Post subject: weld Reply with quote

maybe time for a new drive roller?

Finally got one for my very old now clarke and its fantastic again.

The old roller ( original to machine ) had developed a flat spot on the 0.6mm groove and had jerky stop go stop go feed, so weld was inconsistent and not pretty.

our local welding supplier ( she great and knows her onions !! ) is brilliant.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 15:21 - 23 Aug 2019    Post subject: Re: weld Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
maybe time for a new drive roller?

Finally got one for my very old now clarke and its fantastic again.

The old roller ( original to machine ) had developed a flat spot on the 0.6mm groove and had jerky stop go stop go feed, so weld was inconsistent and not pretty.

our local welding supplier ( she great and knows her onions !! ) is brilliant.


Maybe, but blow the liner through with compressed air and if it's only dodgy with the tip in place you know it's clagged up or wrong size.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 08:41 - 24 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its a while since I had it apart but i think it was still gash without a tip. I was suspecting the rollers/roller tension.. bit visually they look OK. probably worth a punt as it's not a bad tool when 'on song'. It was inherited from my dad but is kept at my brothers place..

..meanwhile brazing seems a compact solution for light jobs.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 09:20 - 24 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
Yes it's steel. Wire feed is buggered on my Sealey Mig (well the one I have access too) I replaced the torch liner but still no dice so I've sidelined it - in any case I'd probably just have blown a hole in it Rolling Eyes

Thought brazing my prove an interesting thing to try and can be used to mess about with push bike frames too I'm told.

Will look out for sibronze rods then..

Cheers


If your mig welder has been stored a while not used then it's probably got a very thin layer of rust on the wire. You have to strip off all the turns which have gone even a tiny bit rusty or it'll stick in the liner.
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