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Knocking when not holding clutch

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malletman88
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 27 Aug 2019
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PostPosted: 09:27 - 12 Sep 2019    Post subject: Knocking when not holding clutch Reply with quote

Hey all.
I have a 06 Hyosung GV650, haven't had it long and have a strange noise. Unfortunately i don't know much about engines so figured this place is the best place before i head to a mechanic.

While not holding the clutch in there is a knocking, seems to be from the left side, can't seem to tell if it's there while cruising along but definitely can hear and feel it when taking off or accelerating from a corner.
I have been told it could be a loose clutch basket nut? apparently this is a common thing for V-Twin engines?
Like i said, i don't know much about engines so am WAY out of my comfort zone at this point.
any help will be gratefully appreciated
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Meatybeaty
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PostPosted: 09:55 - 12 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could try an adjustment at the cable first, and if it still makes a noise take it to your mechanic
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martin734
Spanner Monkey



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PostPosted: 10:21 - 12 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the same problem on a previous bike and it was indeed the basket nut. Mine came all the way off though which was a proper pain in the arse. I would get it sorted sooner rather than later.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 18:19 - 12 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another vote for clutch nut
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malletman88
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PostPosted: 18:24 - 12 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys.
Would it be a hard fix or should I just take it to a mechanic?
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 18:43 - 12 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's a loose clutch basket nut, it should be a very easy fix, but as with all jobs on a bike, being careful is important. You don't want to overtorque anything, you will want to make sure you have the right socket size available before you start, and perhaps a clutch cover gasket, you might want to know if it's a good idea to put a bit of silicone in certain places when you put the clutch cover back, etc. Oh, and do you need to buy or make a special tool to hold the clutch basket in place before you tighten that nut? Better to know all this before you start. Getting hold of a workshop manual would be a good idea. A blow-up diagram is always nice. Also, you may want to measure and make a note of the wear of your clutch springs and plates while you have it all open, just so you have a record. Typing your bike into cmsnl turns up no results.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 12 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bhud wrote:
Typing your bike into cmsnl turns up no results.


CMPO is better for Korean/Chinese/etc brands.

https://www.chinesemotorcyclepartsonline.co.uk/search.php?manufacturer=Hyosung&model=GV650%20Aquila&year=2006
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 12 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

CMPO don't seem much help unless you want ear plugs rust block or
an emergency cable repair kit for it.

As most of these far eastern bikes are copies/clones
I did a wee bit of that googling and it appears the engine has similarities to the SV650 and MCN sez
"The Hyosung GV650 Aquila motor is essentially a copy of Suzuki's excellent liquid-cooled V-twin from the SV650"

So I'd be looking at those for tech info and swappable bits and bobs
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BusterGonads
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 09:58 - 15 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bhud wrote:
and perhaps a clutch cover gasket, you might want to know if it's a good idea to put a bit of silicone in certain places when you put the clutch cover back, etc.


I have a massive aversion to using silicone or any kind of setting sealant. Back in the day (1970) I totalled two engines by trying to seal up oil leaks using gasket sealer. Idiot that I was, I over did it and bits of it were inside the engine and blocked oil ways. Two cranks destroyed before I realised what I was doing wrong. Never ever used it since. New gasket and careful clean up is the right way. In the hands of a beginner, or an idiot like me, that stuff can be an engine killer. It depends a bit on the way the oil is filtered, but you don't ever want lumps of goo going about in the oil.
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 12:58 - 15 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blocking an oil passage can kill an engine in seconds. It is vitally important to not get any silicone into your engine. This demands a lot of care in application, i.e. squeeze out a little onto the end of your little finger, then daub the thinnest layer you can to the mating surface, taking care than none of it is towards the inner edge of the casing (where it could get pushed back in upon reassembly).

The Haynes manuals for certain bikes specify silicone sealant in certain situations. For example, Haynes for the ER5 says it should be daubed in 2 places (where the cast parts of the engine casings meet) when putting in a new clutch cover. However, it takes for granted that people know the dangers and won't just squeeze some out of the tube directly onto the metal in the indicated locations.

I have both silicone sealant and Hylomar Blue. When doing bathroom DIY, silicone sealant every time. It sets to a nice chunk of rubber. When working on a bike engine, Hylomar Blue. It does the same thing as silicone but never sets.
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 09:58 - 16 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bhud wrote:


The Haynes manuals for certain bikes specify silicone sealant in certain situations. For example, Haynes for the ER5 says it should be daubed in 2 places (where the cast parts of the engine casings meet) when putting in a new clutch cover. However, it takes for granted that people know the dangers and won't just squeeze some out of the tube directly onto the metal in the indicated locations.

I have both silicone sealant and Hylomar Blue. When doing bathroom DIY, silicone sealant every time. It sets to a nice chunk of rubber. When working on a bike engine, Hylomar Blue. It does the same thing as silicone but never sets.


Thanks for the info about hylomar blue. On the other points, as you make clear, there can be an assumption that people taking a case off an engine know the risks, and of course some of them just don't. I bet when I blew up my cranks with hermatite paste lumps forty five years ago, experienced mechanics knew not to do what I did. That didn't help me at all. The guy at the bike shop just recommended it, and people I knew said, 'Oh - oil leaks. Hermatite will stop that. Just put it on the gaskets.' When you are 18 or 19, you know bugger all.

Cheers.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 14:06 - 17 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never had issues with silicone goop wrecking motors, but then again i had the presence of mind not to put tonnes of the stuff on.

Plenty of OEM engine makers use silicone sealer to seal case halves and the like in the factory, both the setting and non setting type. When i rebuilt the water/oil pump on my K75, the manual insists on silicone sealer to seal the oil pump to the engine casing.
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