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Floor void water removal

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woo
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PostPosted: 16:49 - 02 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

is moving house an option?
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Grubscrew
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PostPosted: 19:37 - 02 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The drain dye is the way to go. If you buy the product made by Monument, toolstation sell it, you can even detect it with a uv light, just in case you cannot see it with the naked eye. Itís very good stuff.
Where I llve is very rural. Our cottage has a basement, that too used to have an ingress of ground water. A submersible pump kept it free of water but still damp.
The floor was brick on clay. A few years later I dug the floor out and ran a pipe out of the lowest corner to the field adjoining the property which sloped away. It is now dpmíd and relatively dry, and no harm done to the structure....that was 22 years ago.
My advice to you is to raise the subfloor level to displace any water, to 6 inches above the highest point of water ingress, incorporate a dpm whether itís chemical/ plastic/butyl and screed over the top.
(Soakaways need a porosity test prior to any further work, but not in your case as the ground is higher)
Hope that helps.
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 08:07 - 03 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grubscrew wrote:
The drain dye is the way to go. If you buy the product made by Monument, toolstation sell it, you can even detect it with a uv light, just in case you cannot see it with the naked eye. Itís very good stuff.


I picked up a pot of that yesterday as it happens. I'm going to systematically test it; no point testing it when the water is at its highest in case a leaky drain is also functioning as a soakaway for the top level of water. We've had a few dry days, but rain forecast later, so going to chuck some down this evening just down one gully, give it a few days, check for dye, then repeat on each gully. If nothing then, going to put a bit on the edges of the drive, patio etc. to see if surface water is ending up under there too (I can live with the colour change . . .)
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Diggs
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PostPosted: 09:11 - 03 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grubscrew wrote:
The drain dye is the way to go. If you buy the product made by Monument, toolstation sell it, you can even detect it with a uv light, just in case you cannot see it with the naked eye. Itís very good stuff.
Where I llve is very rural. Our cottage has a basement, that too used to have an ingress of ground water. A submersible pump kept it free of water but still damp.
The floor was brick on clay. A few years later I dug the floor out and ran a pipe out of the lowest corner to the field adjoining the property which sloped away. It is now dpmíd and relatively dry, and no harm done to the structure....that was 22 years ago.
My advice to you is to raise the subfloor level to displace any water, to 6 inches above the highest point of water ingress, incorporate a dpm whether itís chemical/ plastic/butyl and screed over the top.
(Soakaways need a porosity test prior to any further work, but not in your case as the ground is higher)
Hope that helps.


Cock-on.
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mpd72
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PostPosted: 10:07 - 03 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThunderGuts wrote:
Grubscrew wrote:
The drain dye is the way to go. If you buy the product made by Monument, toolstation sell it, you can even detect it with a uv light, just in case you cannot see it with the naked eye. Itís very good stuff.


I picked up a pot of that yesterday as it happens. I'm going to systematically test it; no point testing it when the water is at its highest in case a leaky drain is also functioning as a soakaway for the top level of water. We've had a few dry days, but rain forecast later, so going to chuck some down this evening just down one gully, give it a few days, check for dye, then repeat on each gully. If nothing then, going to put a bit on the edges of the drive, patio etc. to see if surface water is ending up under there too (I can live with the colour change . . .)


How are you going to test the roof gutter drains - are they open at ground level, so you can pour some in there?
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Diggs
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PostPosted: 12:37 - 03 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

mpd72 wrote:


How are you going to test the roof gutter drains - are they open at ground level, so you can pour some in there?


Simplest way would be to go up a ladder and pour some along the guttering. Could also use the opportunity to clear out leaves and moss...
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 15:20 - 03 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gutters empty into salt-glazed gullies so easy access Thumbs Up
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Grubscrew
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PostPosted: 17:36 - 03 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good Ďol salt glaze. Pre 1970ís more often the two systems were combined, rain water and grey water. If you are in clay soil there is a fair chance one or two of the spiggots have cracked, thus leaving a stepped drain run, water then seeps through the crack.
Those pipes would have been original to your house.
Assuming this, either a replacement to plastic 4Ē under ground, there are rubber collars which join the two types of pipe, or , there are companies which can blow a special resin impregnated sock in the affected area and it basically lines the pipe.
If it were me , Iíd replace the pipe......assuming itís cracked.
Keep us posted!
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almostthere
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PostPosted: 22:24 - 03 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

why not just tack a membrane to the underside of the foor joists?
There should be airbricks to let air to flow through make sure they haven't been built over or blocked
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MCN
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PostPosted: 10:49 - 08 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would.be concerned about the water constantly in there. It raises humidity which encourages mould (damp dry rot, moulds etc. And odours.

You can fit a basement pump. That's a small submersible pump that only runs when enough water is detected.
It should be sat in a small sump that you dig out. Just wide enough for the pump to rest in. Doesn't need to be very deep.
The idea is to then create s few channels that.lead any water to drain into the sump.
When the water seeps in and fills the sump the pump kicks in a fire the water out through a hose.
Reinforced plastic hose about 25mm 30mm. Out.to your rain gullies.
If it's a sewer that's leaking in there it would be obvious by the pen and ink from any h2s rotten egg. That's also not very good to be sat on. It's a highly explosive gas given enough air and heat/spark. And very toxicnin very small amounts. 10ppm. Unconsciousness and death follow rapidly.
So if it does smell foul then don't go inside.
And another sewer gas is methane. It's worsererer as it's odourless. But explosive and toxic.

Be careful running anything electrical and not explosion proof until you are certain there are no explosive gasses down there.

https://intekclean.com/2015/05/19/sump-pump-do-you-need-one/
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 11:58 - 09 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm certain it's not sewer water; it's been tested by UU for this. Nor is it a leaky main (no chlorine content at all to the water). Drain dye isn't showing anything either, so good in that the pipes are probably sound, bad in that it means it's almost certainly entirely ground water, in which case it's a faffier issue to resolve.

On a side note, that drain dye is potent stuff - a tiny bit got on my hand and I had a hand that lit up bright yellow under black light for several days. Laughing
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Diggs
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PostPosted: 13:17 - 09 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

If its ground water and this hasn't always been happening, then something beyond the footings has taken place to effect the change.

Most likely culprits include:

Ruptured water main nearby.

Has anybody built anything nearby and diverted a land drain?

Has anything substantial been built nearby that could cause rainwater to drain in the direction of your house?

Do you live near a watercourse that has been altered, or had additional volume routed through it?

Have trees been felled nearby?

If nothing has changed, it is most likely that the capacity of nearby land to soak up and hold rainwater has been reached, and some of it is percolating towards your property instead of all draining to wherever it did previously.

Sump pump and increased ventilation are the best options unless you can locate the source and either remedy it or divert it to somewhere else.
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mpd72
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PostPosted: 15:28 - 09 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThunderGuts wrote:
Nor is it a leaky main (no chlorine content at all to the water).


As all good aquarium owners will know, the chlorine in tap water, is only present when the water is under pressure. Once released to atmospheric pressure, it escapes.

Are you on a meter or rated water supply?
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 16:03 - 09 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

mpd72 wrote:

As all good aquarium owners will know, the chlorine in tap water, is only present when the water is under pressure. Once released to atmospheric pressure, it escapes.

Are you on a meter or rated water supply?



Interesting and that makes sense, although it was UU that proclaimed that the absence of chlorine rules out mains leaks. Yes, we are on a meter - I shall record the reading when I go out to work tomorrow and again when I get home to see if there's any loss.
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