CBR929RR

[vitus detritus]

Right lads - to cut a long story short my CBR 929 RR will not start. Bike cranks but no fuel prime.
I have checked all fuses, relays, fuel pump and I now have the loom out of the bike and everything checks out so far.

The ECU has been sent to Carmho Electronics with the key and has come back with a clean bill of health.

Does anyone who knows the 929 have any ideas ?
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if it ain't broke, don't fix it

[jaffa90]

Safety cut out switches????????????
Some bikes kill the spark but let the engine turn over.

[Meatybeaty]

Is the HISS working as it should?

[vitus detritus]

Interesting question. The Hiss is not getting 5 volts as it should. Now the guys who tested the ECU asked the same question when I mailed them and the hypothesis was that there was a short in the loom. But the loom checks out. All 4 wires to the HISS are good.
That's why I'm
a) wondering about some other component being responsible (I have seen posts about cam sensors going pop and the symptoms are the same)
b) debating whether to keep on searching the loom for issues - ie taking the tape off
c) getting ready to throw the towel in and letting a garage have a look (££££)
____________________
if it ain't broke, don't fix it

[Meatybeaty]

Have you got both keys and have you tried with both, could be its the Ignition halo thats failed, that can be replaced without having to re-programme as its just an antenna transmitting to the ECM from the transponder in the key

[vitus detritus]

I do and I haven't tried it. The Halo may be the issue but my intuition tells me that it's not. And it's not getting 5 V as it should - from an ECU that has been tested and works. But I'm ready to try anything ! Thanks for the suggestion. It's a great moral support !
____________________
if it ain't broke, don't fix it

[Meatybeaty]

have you isolated the safety switches that could cause the No Start, have you checked the 20amp FI fuse and the Diode (near the Fuse Box)

[vitus detritus]

Hey Meaty -
by the 'safety switches' you mean the engine stop/fuel pump relays ? All checked. Fuses all checked.

Just checked the diode. It checks out fine. Grrrrrr - I was really hoping that was it.

Thanks again for the ideas - Keep 'em comin' !
____________________
if it ain't broke, don't fix it

[Meatybeaty]

No sorry mate , what I meant was to bypass the Clutch , BAS and Sidestand switches ( although the side stand wont matter for starting) just means looping a wire into connections,are you getting a sweep with the tacho, and is the Neutral light showing

[vitus detritus]

Neutral light is showing. Can't remember if I get a sweep with the tacho or not. What do you think that would indicate ?

Loom is out and bike and loom are in different locations so difficult to check right now.

What are you thinking ? Popped Switch somewhere?

Bank angle sensor checks out. At least, it makes the relay 'click' when turned.

Interestingly, now you mention it, I noticed a relay click (fuel prime relay perhaps) when you turn the ignition on.

Red light stays on solid though.

It might help to know how I got here. I made a sub loom from the reg/rec direct to the battery and then when I connected the standard loom up I connected both negatives but NOT the standard +ve to the battery (tired and in poor light - doh!). With only the +ve from the reg/rec connected to the battery, the bike turned (with difficulty) and then it popped the 20 amp & 30 amp fuses. And here I am. That's why they say to make the sub loom connections on the bike loom side, not direct from the reg/rec. I was so mad with myself......

Please keep on with the questions and any theories you might have. I think I'm going to untape the loom. So far I've just been checking continuity from the ECU sockets to various points on the loom (supply and earths).
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if it ain't broke, don't fix it

[Meatybeaty]

Just wondering how you can check the loom against the bike if their in different locations? but anyway if you bypass the BAS and clutch Loom side that will take them out of the equation , I know people say if you hear the click the relay is working, not always the way , the only good way to test a relay is out of the bike and with a 12v battery, I think there is a Video on You Tube showing you how, the above 2 bypasses are easy enough but make sure you do them loom side, then you can move on to the fault finding, were there any fault codes current/saved

[vitus detritus]

The idea was to check the loom and eliminate it.
The relays were indeed removed and checked with a 12 v battery. All checked out fine.
Dunno about the fault codes. That will be the next step after the loom.

Thanks again for all your help - It eliminated the little three pronged diode !

I'll keep banging away until I'm out of ideas. I'm sure it's something really stupid like a cam sensor or the loom. I'm going in soon - from fuse box upwards.

Cheers !
____________________
if it ain't broke, don't fix it

[Meatybeaty]

Okey Dokey ,but check out the Ignition Pulse Generator too

[vitus detritus]

Will do - there's a bunch of stuff in the manual about how to check all those things -

Cheers !
____________________
if it ain't broke, don't fix it

[vitus detritus]

Right, I tested everything and basically couldn't find anything wrong. So I gave it to Race Engineering and guess what they found ? One of the relays had gone. Simple as that. So if you've checked everything and the relays go 'click' - don't trust 'em ! Just coz they click does not mean they work. I thought I'd tested them but I clearly missed something. Anyway, it's fixed and now I just have to put the fairing back on........
____________________
if it ain't broke, don't fix it