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Removing gash anodising...

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Damon
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Joined: 24 Aug 2007
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PostPosted: 19:26 - 28 Oct 2019    Post subject: Removing gash anodising... Reply with quote

Hi all,

Was just removing some anodising from a part of the enduro machine and thought I'd do a little how to as it's mega easy.

I'm sure there are still plenty of badly anodised bits floating around from the 90's. I know they are "retro" but they look... Well shite...

Anyway.

First thing to do is give the part a good clean. I chucked mine in the ultrasonic cleaner and gave it a rinse off. Then I filed down the edges to get rid of some of the damage on the part. It's best to do this now otherwise you'll ruin the surface finish if you do any profiling work after the colour has been removed.

https://i.ibb.co/d2pstgM/20191028-163355.jpg

Next step is to give it a quick rub down with some wet and dry. I used 400 wet as it's what I had to hand. It might not be needed but it does help to remove the colouring quicker. Just a really quick going over is enough. Don't spent too long here.

https://i.ibb.co/vL9xKSv/20191028-164311.jpg

Next thing I did was heat up the part. Chuck it on some hot water. I used the ultrasonic cleaner again as the water was up to temperature.

Dry the part and then put it into a suitable container. In my case a Serrano ham packet was the ticket. I also got to eat the rest of the packet to make room so win win.

Get yourself some drain cleaner with the main ingredient being sodium hydroxide. The crystals will work but I used (and recommend) the gel which although isn't as potent it makes it easier to control.

https://i.ibb.co/ScMjNJv/20191028-165301.jpg


Safety warning:. Squint your eyes and wear marigolds

Cover the part, stand back and watch intently.

About 15mins in I moved the gel around the part, making sure it was all covered.

30mins and the part was done. Just flush it was cold water and jobs a goodun.


https://i.ibb.co/Q6Xpr6Q/20191028-174508.jpg

It will form its own new oxide layer as soon as it hits the air although you can use electoylsis to hard anodise the part. Most of the time though that's it.

Chuck it back on the bike and sleep easy again knowing all is good with the word.
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Islander
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Joined: 05 Aug 2012
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PostPosted: 22:17 - 28 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Feathers McGraw wrote:


You mean sodium hydroxide? Wink Laughing
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stinkwheel
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 13:44 - 29 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Takes about 2 minutes in a bucket of relatively strong caustic soda solution (which is pure sodium hydroxide) without all the previous fannying about. Needs to be clean and grease free.

I do it with bicycle componants which for some reason are cheaper in black anodised than in silver.

Wear goggles. Add the caustic to the water not the other way round. Use a plastic or steel bucket. Be aware it can get hot, Don't get it on your skin.
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 09:11 - 30 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually didn't realise it was so easy - always thought anodising gave a fairly resilient surface.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 09:18 - 30 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sister Sledge wrote:
I actually didn't realise it was so easy - always thought anodising gave a fairly resilient surface.


It does, unless you put a highly corrosive alkali on it. It just happens that it's one that doesn't react with steel.

There is an opposite. Steel dissolves in hot alum but aluminium doesn't.

Chemistry.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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