Project 20190912 Honda CD200 Benly 1980

[Bhud]

If I may suggest, assume nothing about that engine.

[Ayrton]

[Comuk]

The issue I have is that I have removed a lot of wiring. I know I should get spark without battery but I probably removed some needed wiring and need to rewire now.

The reason I didnt start with engine is that a complete engine known working for this bike is quite cheap even the existing engine is useless.

I have done a compression test, I got 85psi rating from both sides, cold obviously and throttle open (but cant guarantee clear passage there as didnt dismantle the carb yet). I know this is low but should still be enough for engine to fire.

Next sparking plugs; Do I need to rewire and put a fresh battery to check the plugs?

I am studying the wiring diagram but I think without rewiring at least the earth points, nothing will work

[Comuk]

After studying the wire diagram, I think I now understand how a bike is wired.

I managed to get the lights and horn working, the ignition switch doesnt work so I by-passed that and ordered a new one.

I dont get a neutral gear light and ignition wiring is next to be checked. There may be a lot of components that may have broken here so will test them one by one.

[Comuk]

I get a clicking sound from ignition coil when I connect the battery. Is this OK? How do you test this part? Would a simple resistance test suffice? I wont test this with the battery on for sure.

[Riejufixing]

[Comuk]

I bought a brand new one that is needed for this bike. I cant risk of a poor battery causing issues while testing parts.

[stinkwheel]

I've never herd an ignition coil make a noise of any sort. It has no moving parts.

There is sometimes a "snap" as a set of points opens.

Sure the noise is coming from there and not a relay somewhere?
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[mentalboy]

[Comuk]

[Riejufixing]

[mentalboy]

[Comuk]

Ok, it has been a while. I tried to get electrics working but decided to strip the bike and start overhauling the parts bit by bit. It was just taking too much time to prove engine is working and there are so many clogged parts, I dont think it would have proved anything. All I know is there is some comp and it is turning.

What remains on the bike frame are the chain, engine, brakes, forks, wheels. bike didnt have many miles but looking at the state of carb, I think it is best to disassemble the engine, clean, put new gaskets and reassemble. I bought a parts washer and some jizer.

Frame looks good, it is dirty than rusty and definitely no holes etc. Would you strip the paint and primer/repaint?

Even though I use JiS screwdrivers etc some nuts are stripped, is it possible to find the same spec nuts?

Wheels are horrible so I really cant decide if I should make an effort to salvage it or just get better/new wheels. I still need them in place to wheel the bike to garden to work on it though. Parked as a later stage issue to be sorted.

https://i.ibb.co/h933DGN/59-A70072-956-A-4-E62-AD4-B-231131733-AC3.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/n607BZn/3796-C785-5419-4342-9-A20-2990-FB7-E3-BD5.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/SN1X8bL/EA357961-1-A8-F-4228-A8-C1-12-A63017-D182.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/N677R3W/AA585920-2-A92-4260-B946-6-FE7523-A584-C.jpg

[Easy-X]

A good clean and a carb rebuild kit should start you off.

The engine casings... do you a have a friend or local workshop that could soda blast them? Buffing them up by hand would take a while!

Regarding the wheels I suggest breaking out the sandpaper and see if it's just surface rust. As long as the rims aren't completely eaten through then they'd just need painting. The hub in the photo looks fine which is the vital bit - rims and spokes are relatively generic things and replaceable.
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[dekip]

[Comuk]

I will have some time over the coming holiday period to work on the bike. I will clean the carb and will dismantle the engine. I have the top end gaskets ready and parts washer with jizer but nothing else. Do you recommend doing a full top end rebuild with new piston and barrel? The compression was not that great but it was measured cold and with a gunky carb. No one recommends bottom end dismantling but do you think it is worth checking it while engine is out? I dont have the gaskets for them though so either need to source it quickly or need to cut it from a 0.5mm paper I have.

[Easy-X]

Worth checking the barrel and piston out before dropping money on new stuff Any scoring or gouges? Maybe missing a piston ring? The barrel liner can be redone and pistons and rings easily replaced. Carb condition doesn't affect the compression BTW!
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[mentalboy]

[garth]

Don't take the engine apart until you have had it running. Just dump some fresh oil in it and spark it up. Why make work for yourself?
____________________
You ain't a has been if you never was

[Comuk]

All good advice

I wont try to start the engine, all cables etc stripped now and I think I will need a new ignition coil and points.

It makes sense to open the top end now and order stuff for after xmas in case I need them. I will post the pics.

[Comuk]

I checked the ignition coil, primary shows resistance 1.6ohms and secondary 11.6k ohms. The manual says 0.5-0.6ohms and 7-9k ohms, respectively. I think this is still ok though? Does anyone have a real reading from a working coil?

[Comuk]

Merry Xmas everyone!

Engine needs to wait until I order some parts. In the meantime, I dismantled the forks. Quite rusty where it is clamped but other areas are ok. I did wet sanding with wd40, the picture with 2 forks show the results, left one after 2 rounds, one with p220 and then p400. The right one only after one round with p220.
I cant feel any bumps from rust anymore. Do you think they are usable and shall I continue until all dark areas are gone? I think I need p800 sanding for 2 hours to make it better.

By the way, I cannot remove the collars, is there a way to loosen it?

Cheers

https://i.ibb.co/Bf8YgNb/6-C23-D720-0-DD2-4-D77-B780-FBFACB6-B7116.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/vx9KVM2/AF3311-C7-0-AC2-4-CFC-B7-BE-C966-F8-A4506-C.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/VTLB8wJ/2-E458445-0443-4209-B3-FA-0-C19-E851-A09-E.jpg

[mentalboy]

Those are fucked, new stanchions or get them re-chromed.
If by collars you mean the lower shrouds then you need to look under the lowest part, insert a large allen key in the recess until you find the right size, place upper in a guarded vice then whack allen key with a hammer and hope that it undoes. If it doesn't then you'll need to employ all the tricks in the book to get that screw out!!!
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Make mine a Corona.

[Easy-X]

Yes, they are fucked but focus on the area of travel i.e. what metal is potentially hitting the fork oil seal. The top bits are just used in the steering clamp and they don't really matter.

The bolt at the bottom of the fork... I've seen so many people struggle with this: a case of if there's a hard way why do it the easy way

If you pop the top cap off and take out the spring then nothing's pressing on the damping rod. Go to undo the hex head bolt and the whole thing - damping rod and bolt - just spins inside the fork. Leave the spring in and have at it. It may still spin but you stand a better chance.
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[mentalboy]