|
Author |
Message |
WD Forte |
This post is not being displayed .
|
WD Forte World Chat Champion
Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
stinkwheel |
This post is not being displayed .
|
stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
|
Posted: 23:32 - 02 Dec 2019 Post subject: |
|
|
Howlers?
It's not supposed to be neat. It's to show me the position of the wires and connectors on the bike more than to make a neat diagrammatic representation of the circuits.
It's a vector graphic so colours/wires can be changed at a click and componants/wires can be grouped, anchored and dragged. If I change something, I just mark the change on the printout and go back and alter the diagram. I might do a "neat" version later for fault-finding purposes, this is a working document.
I already have a "proper" wiring diagram showing the circuit layout but it doesn't help lace it all up coherantly because there are some things which are fixed, including the available wire colours in the multicore cables and the wire colours on the componants themselves. I've used a different lighting switch and added relays to handle the A/CD/C lighting through a switch that was designed for a split lighting coil.
In essense, there is a big 10-core cable that runs from the teacaddy to the headlamp. I've left it long and stripped the outer off once it enters these then cut the individual wires down to an appropriate length as they reach the componants/splits/joins. They're all hooked up at the teacaddy end.
I now have a bundle of 9 long wires sticking out into the headlamp area. If you follow each wire from the centre of the diagram, it comes to each connection it has to make in the order it needs to be connected. I just need to work along it. Where 4 cross, I need two wires in each crimp and so-on. Some of them go direct to the componant. Others need to be looped on to the next.
So like the grey wire is for side/tail lights. It'll come into the headlight and be cut where it meets the yellow wire coming out of the switch. I'll apply a female bullet connector to the end with a second bit of grey wire in that connector. The yellow will have a male bullet and the second grey will go on to the sidelights.
The green is the AC return and will be bundled in shrinktube with the white and yellow from my relay module and attached to an H4 bulb connector block.
The brown will attach to the ammeter with a ring terminal. I'll probably change the layout here so another two brown wires attach to the same post. one will have a bullet connector to the brown and black coming out of the headlamp switch. The other will be shrinktubed to the blue and run out to the brake switch.
And so-on.
It's working well so far.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SfzDsYwSND_1_a-JBI0ryplS8McURUxJxbf1OSgq1wIRibHWsYPQcKUm7uWyEfQTkfaJBfHOaV3BSxpnProKxpyJ6wSZzn7RWvuJe7pvj4bolxJcKygAWi0UYhX0oNwDdq6luvKGCA=w1092-h696-no ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Easy-X |
This post is not being displayed .
|
Easy-X Super Spammer
Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :
|
Posted: 00:47 - 03 Dec 2019 Post subject: |
|
|
WD Forte wrote: | Owwww !
That diagram!
Take it down before somebody sees it!
I always sketch it out on paper before commiting to anything printable
especially when working on the fly when other/better ideas
and mods may occur.
One page per system helps clarify things as well
One for charging, one for ignition, lights etc
Then, when you get to the stage of creating a single sheet diagram
to publish in colour whichever software you eventually use,
the sketches notes and amendments will help build a coherent diagram and
you'll be less likely to make the howlers above.
I often use photoshop and pen tool then stroke in with brush and pencil |
Hmm? I've haven't looked at that one for years. Just the first thing I found that was vaguely relevant to the conversation, i.e. "can it do coloured wires?"
What did I get wrong BTW? Not that the vehicle that it was intended for even exists any more ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
stinkwheel |
This post is not being displayed .
|
stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
|
Posted: 21:13 - 09 Dec 2019 Post subject: |
|
|
That's it 90% wired up now.
Not a great update because it doesn't look much different from the last time but there's a good few hours work gone into it.
Note to self: Buy a ratchet crimping tool for non-insulated terminals... The manual crimping die works well but after a few dozen with two crimps on each, gets a little wearing!
First issue, the wires on my C50 switchgear don't reach into the casquette because of my massively long and wide handlebars. I don't like the option of connecting them out in the open because they're going to get covered in mud and water and shite.
So I soldered a length of wire (in my selected colours rather than the honda colours) to the end of each and shrink-tubed over it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/014h9ES8CFbvtorFm5nG-9OkqqL2cKXJLizTBM15nMKR3TWcL6kj67QqxxPO-JiJ_FJGGsYqX4A98nF0_2essiQaBMz4oe7pM7TYyu9mgkHwKXXuce9oTEmutzgl0YSJ0ki6gUC1aA=w1155-h866-no
I don't mind soldered joints when neither end or both ends are supported. If one end is supported, it's a recipe for disaster because the solder causes a stress riser in the cable and the heat of soldering anneals the wire just below it. All the flex happens at one point and the inner snaps inside the insulation.
Anyway, wrapped the whole lot in self-amalgamating tape afterwards so no chance of water getting in.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/y6ifaEfuzPfDRYTjNTPDkdf4kLybtwuPXIR-VWZWw8yyq9j8pzCdPDxfiWYNKvldHcPI73JWHSU1x-i9k1esPNfrDY8NNwzokWTEJoxB9Xi5Mp6u6BN0p0aBphdcLyKoXuaxhtpC-w=w1155-h866-no
Having said all that abotu solder, I had to solder these ring terminals because the modern thinwall cable was too fine to be gripped properly by the crimp. This is the main power coming through the ammeter.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jVNbtbcqvpkscvSAm120FaeFQt3gniNdPCCMeIsfECwgIftupcG6TQXA9bTVoBSDurjPIOjD0sJ6rH7v8uM5R2FX3UyvF7VDjxDj3AOOq0g23hNMSq4NYQpaiaiZlYE7EN0ob9YGww=w1155-h866-no
In any case, my colour wiring diagram worked well and I was able to work my way through it all quite happily. There is a wire for the horn, one for the kill switch and a bundle for the headlamp left to be hooked up.
My headlamp has however gone walkabout, absolutely no idea where it is, can't find it, I pretty much emptied the workshop and it doesn't seem to be anywhere reachable in the shed. I'm getting quite close to just buying a new one.
Anyway, I left plenty of spare wire wrapped up fairly neatly inside the headlamp because I've had problems with bikes where it got too tight but never too loose. This way I can seperate and connect connectors with them fully outside the headlamp instead of trying to get both hands into a tiny gap and dislodging something else at the same time.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/w-5mwJSyQ0uKrAYNY8cuzQN2Jg9DXU_FarkR0zdu5hz-D9u5jmyYq0w-G2f-gaTynrp0DJS36CUeiJL6bgabcgQxYIzFBf4Q24KQqFtywQzyjs34uAvIkyr4M2riqI3hRFoLCBkICA=w1155-h866-no
Having hooked it all up, I attached the battery and gingerly turned it on. No bangs. I turned on the sidelight switch and the ammeter immediately swung all the way over indicating a short. I was watching for it and quickly flicked it off again before anything popped/caught fire.
A little more thought and I realised it was actually the instrument backlights. Instead of checking, I guessed at which wire went to the outside of the holder. I guessed wrong and made them positive which was making them short against the clocks. Quickly switched those two wires over and...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/X1zsm4JHiivFFwP0tn8r064JBSyx118M5o1UUFEaxqJ3jb6JmTNpaK13vhXjzTi8dbhI4foLUXdekqIkNqKLSIVpnxoVGwdGlxRYw4ZCuiTIGHHU0BAgFMhJ2NQdSB4lTP7yRIUIxw=w1155-h866-no
A quick run around with a meter showed my lighting relays were functioning correctly and the brake and tail light are also working. The ammeter however, isn't. I broke the original one taking it out and this is a pretty dinged up spare which will swing for a short but isn't picking up the small current draw of the lights/points. I've just ordered a new one.
A check with a plug also reveals it has a spark!
So LED bulbs ordered for everything but the headlamp. New ammeter. Rear brake light switch and kill switch. I just need to hook up the horn, kill switch, rear brake switch, headlamp and the three wires for the taillight once I've fitted them but the wiring itself is done.
I'm having a look at the rear subrfame/mudguard (just needs a clean), chainguard, numberplate/lamp holder (manky and rusty) and rear brake lever after work this week. If I get a non-freezing, dry evening, I'll give them a paint.
i also need to summon up the will to make a longer brake cable and fit the speedo drive and chain to the rear wheel. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
dekip |
This post is not being displayed .
|
dekip Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 27 Jul 2019 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
stinkwheel |
This post is not being displayed .
|
stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
WD Forte |
This post is not being displayed .
|
WD Forte World Chat Champion
Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
stinkwheel |
This post is not being displayed .
|
stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
|
Posted: 18:50 - 22 Dec 2019 Post subject: |
|
|
It's a 2007 with a 3-phase alternator and -ve earth. The three phases are not equal like on a Japanese bike. The AC phase has a higher output than the two DC phases. You can re-jig them but it means re-soldering the stator.
Rubbish update. My camera battery went flat halfway through but I'll catch up next time.
All the wiring is done other than the rear brakelight switch. I've fitted a "dead mans switch" kill switch with a push-button and one of those cables you attach to the rider.
Also wired in he taillight/numberplate holder which is actually off a 1950's meteor minor. I've repainted it badly with a brush because it's been too cold/wet to go outside and spray it. The finish is easily twice as good as it had when I got it though and it wont rust. I've fitted an LED bulb but then realised it now doesn't have a white numberplate light (normally has a white section of the taillight lens). I'll take it to the MOt like this and if they notice, I'll put a conventional bulb back in for the test.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dzA2uF_1e781TAhK3y1KnHommW4Igq6CkjXMPUWTxqB7FMsMDqu1IhTSZFDWa_r4fz2EpSA2o2iOsWr1ekYkkxrkt6DD9WiUT6rbEMwCgJO9jtULHmqT5XqgbDOzbcylNmzsjEcjRQ=w1155-h866-no
In other news, Father Christmas came early! My folks and Mrs stinkwheel bought me a bike lift. I had to pick it up the other weekend, unload and assemble it. No mean task, it weighs in at 179kg and came in a wooden crate. Anyway, wow does this speed things up as well as saving my back! Should have got one years ago. You can see what you are doing and reach stuff.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LP5_kYnLIEVzdVV240APzLZ04m76jsRj_ZSspLaBAJCAtAYL8ltGPZLXYIUT8T81JumodXMZWkTJQeVSH9vtsaNHnexs72l_ns_y1nL3iF4KG2gnN4rJBPxHmKzUZtI1YQZ30KmEFg=w650-h866-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sTcrymrVzV17T6-Cbv3Ykhx_wQKBau0ccJCqckDJqF5QHf2E44mIt3Lz0LEJk4fhDWwUaWWT61QozFpYemQQQC7kOOdTtKUfLf9eW0RBdErIqrM2epD3-Q_e1sEAGuVAjYX0mFbiKQ=w650-h866-no
Took the back wheel out again so I could fit the speedo drive. This is how they did it in the 60's. Just needed notches cutting in the end of the hub and the wheel spacer filing down 6mm so it slots into the fork-end of the swingarm to allow for the extra width the drive adds.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/phdu8aOX0ePL4zUhsYX88vNbSzr0ZQ3Y2-GF0Lra3I_AtZ6qkrFBn0nGy9LycL48HjCRiShulGgeWHSRrPtdS2oMrK258V9qms4uBf73Z7-J072cLTh-hEWaBiWRDb4PjCT69-6ciw=w1155-h866-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/chpZ6qMcee0N3zI4N2Oc1pRIiQbFCbifHhIrf9Uos1YlaFqjcv3S6rvNYDnaPyHheu4RTBOBkCtBCW7m1q3CMC0WRBjVtO0bCGoXkpizHICOq3ebqajZYTreZlm5t1SD_oyhLhMZZQ=w1155-h866-no
It's as well I did because the wheel bearing fell out. Looks like it's spun-up in the hub.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fVP_EIe-L98JuKh8nJt4VaurdSKRFeskHdGzr64twidxuNCkr1CoVD8JKWUpPxwlaoCV_f21ASMlK2v1krwg7x1KQE268PH0x0zyR9-7hi6_9H_hjENm-9M5d-RVgPu0AM4JWvHOhQ=w1155-h866-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iFpJjK_SqnXc1ckKH5xT7NlVfQuIzFnVnJmQY_khZD5n12r6RwsZeY-pnv7PJfN4rp8rxgNGdNuXF5s0Twb89GmK5A_BynkNS3TXyj7rzvhL7QLLD0EKl_NLz7WUAHp2LqDgsXpNaA=w1155-h866-no
No actual detectable play on it though, just not a tight fit so well within the capabilities of green bearing fit compound.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pYBHzSOTnirNycR7EsxmlPNWWY1Mad3TMzTW9i8wOg9nKmoW3UeOdZub87al93q4A0LoaOgcA8BLVKelQKrFUroUwEMey00Dhuuc_hZzkpgmt-bfF-v6UPcOSQX8z2MRCB7jP8KSw=w1155-h866-no
Rear brake assembly painted and fitted with nylon spacers. I'm very pleased with this. I'm less pleased with the droopy angle the footpeg sits at. I think I'll get some proper Sammy Miller replicas which will just bolt-onto the bracket I have.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pcs9qodY7VhRdSE8NTfZy08zbsoej4aCY9hmWs8paSZTcsYCveHjbBfeJdvgJr9X72ZJibYGZ7sz6J8eq7rakRWYGEk2MCo0233c7lRKwnDopbqxKuA6UYXj65HZlNOiCSyNzSsLVA=w1155-h866-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ccvFtOp1d39wZhHeEeYFFYsJ2JMZnlYO63al5vB3WYyO3IlnKpZpAuzETIu-XmoqCHChCN0D5dEV9GPnoLOGDxLxEOd0mGKmvxoMw1mqn1VtRo6aXi9N5n8SDEn59g3RnzVzEDh4-w=w1155-h866-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kyRxfBNgCVutSoyKjTi_vgmKfy3ZqSS8XOi9WP3wKNQgNAfZtGQ_Ubp-k5eJkohN2e6OwOm_zXPKYv17dxNuJCUOaGWpUY93UwXtxY-dhw4E9iaGgTm70dTxBq0OrU5oM-FlV_iDyA=w1155-h866-no
Chain on.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/I5yKaYcyTnjYz7NSs5zYiPXfHbh_U1_m4UFK0RDUw1xLXf9YJmKKqvTLE5oFMTvvoiF5zuJn7Mbt6HniWJASblOnelI6kZpBmD_UUgoF6231rmvyD46ZKcOjR4VT9cmRSB1i3ajsAw=w1155-h866-no
I've also fitted the rear subframe and mudguard, run the wiring along it and fitted the taillight and numberplate. The back-end is pretty much done.
Need to make a front brake cable, fit the decompressor cable, fabricate stays for the front mudguard, sort out a saddle, fill the forks with oil and paint and fit the tank. Oh, and see if it starts!
I'll be able to take it for a walk about in gear now it has a chain on to get the oilways primed.
Struggling to find reasonably priced replacements for the saddle springs, 3 of which have broken. It has 14 x 5.5" extension/upholstery springs. The standard ones are rubbish so I'm not buying another set of those but any others I can find are £££ by the time you've bought 14. I'm thinking of replacing them with paracord (there are still 6 shorter springs in there) or getting shorter ones for ehxaust slip-joints and making up the length with steel cable.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A7j-qIQDcQiaxP9JzMQG0ixG-cfcv4rxDYl15AL-eM-6EYX_3C30YAlSLmuSHY4iuysv4-zuoG6jA88hE9KTvMpsRxQ-hrx8rRsBeySp2wlvE1WAx5VhJ4-BIeJyYoZaYu1MDAKZhw=w1155-h866-no ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Sister Sledge |
This post is not being displayed .
|
Sister Sledge World Chat Champion
Joined: 17 Aug 2018 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Easy-X |
This post is not being displayed .
|
Easy-X Super Spammer
Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :
|
Posted: 12:39 - 23 Dec 2019 Post subject: |
|
|
Is there any point to gloves that torn
Looking at that photo I hope you remembered to put the clip on the master link
I'll have a dig through my junk pile, I used to have a seat in that "spring style" I'll post a photo here if I find it... ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
stinkwheel |
This post is not being displayed .
|
stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
stinkwheel |
This post is not being displayed .
|
stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
|
Posted: 16:20 - 01 Jan 2020 Post subject: |
|
|
Some pics to catch up.
Here's the rear subframe in place. Also attached the saddle (still needs the springs fitting, they are in vinegar for a de-rust then paint). The old knackered tank on here is handy for checking how things fit without worrying about marking the paint.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/O1AqXyb0Cgv_1jespHMzYSzMX5VEJvF-0WHncqU_DDSEJBcenfVtr0OObGH7Xe8jSUco2lpGHzJUzvnQGTL-xJhshdfKSDZ0u0jdnLvQAopnEji2jI9g9hwgLMj2CjSLA9w4F6r7FQ=w1155-h866-no
Tail light and numberplate holder. This one is lower profile than standard and I've got it mounted higher to try to reduce the risk of damage from stones being flung up by the rear wheel.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Pb3ejg1MQFDdjyDL06TNUgGWIrKnKB7A9RlR6glqfqI16QiqH3YwlxOYeKAqb_HjWIxIZr4SCMyaD3coTGWqpGSUAAhQNPQpwd6p457jUMhMO8-GpOxi5RL_ZDQh36vY0aQodP4uHQ=w650-h866-no
Headlamp with "eyebrow" fitted. This insert had provision for a pilot light. I haven't fitted one on the basis it already has two sidelights. Hopefully ok with the MOT guy.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ry71hva844SKyxlqXFg_AvP11itP-oelUn7bHbisKsUdu_2_wXETN3ejw3sDEPWRBu27PrPj-dq_iCJUf0Nko46Ipw7w7oIjgUWGjOU6m06oiiHo113reRfYkg5vlNLruJofcLjP3w=w650-h866-no
"Dead mans" switch.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qOdD_weFkb8VxbwIz8NIcUyxdREbfsCGCsHSmyXk2cLpKg71xENsYEAGXMyGQo4tndX7caCLlQ7XI-4CjNJPBFNBDtm3YUwM_bKwyXwwtfDX4QMXuGCqSmAk32zV7Uppo2-dVAXUOQ=w1155-h866-no
Decompressor fitted. Had top make up a custom cable to use the shorty lever type decompressor.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AFiDsBKzqrizOMRN4tt5YrC8oIV9Rrz2L_N5fxNwgxOU9ERjHVH83BzD33l8FojM_d2i8DJwWR4H7PNGMj-vm5ifTAvSZf6onhVEtBa403lxCUw6FewOWG-m386l5TkdObXIHB_Oug=w650-h866-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DkYCc3Gvd59s40MUpIrrjlr6iegItytmXnnP7U76B2bXdg5J-JbCRxFau9eERpMEpNbuCcQuWiuN9l-LNw2bKbyghoOkKtbkQBpWGYRoB3OMzAYKTu2EY4uL3BL6WqRT-_VsEkgupQ=w1155-h866-no
I also spent ages kicking it over to get the oilways primed. Feed pump showed oil at the quill bolt quite quickly. I was having little success geting oil at the rockers until I forced oil through with an oil can. I think there must have been an airlock on the scavenge side. Didn't take any serious force on the can though so there isn't a blockage. I'll need to keep an eye on the oiling when it first starts though.
I actually spent most of today stripping the paint off the chainguard. The stuff's like adamantium where it hasn't rusted. I landed up hitting it twice with (proper) nitromorse, scraping the worst off then wire-wheeling it "wet"... Nasty!
I've also been spraying the tank. It's the one that came with my 612 but it had some dings in which would have runined the candy paint finish. It's been sat in primer/fillcoat in the shed for ages. I'm doing it with flat white plastikote enamel paint because I'm impatient and it's a really forgiving paint which is touch-dry in about half an hour.
Unlike me, I even flatted down the first coat. This is three coats over black primer. I'd bought small rattle cans not realising just how smal they are (only hold 100ml) so there are three cans full on now. It'll need another couple of coats to cover. I don't think it'll need laquer, the enamel should be fuel proof and this way i'll be able to mist over any damage it sustains in use.
Quite chuffed how that's looking.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/m4YnzYc3LMNV1XclgII98utreM0WNfsGnPaEv3ZN-J9YJm8rbKojFAg2148o_BOccill46vSmPYx3bf4GNI-GKYJMAhLP-dZeWZK9sTuiwbx4fs0r81kHTmb4pDWRL18LS_tcHlphg=w1155-h866-no
I've done a list of stuff to be done and stuff to order because I want to be using this bike second weekend in February. Ideally mostly run-in and having had its first service. (running in will be short, just needs to bed the rigs in then tighten everything up after, it's a roller hearing crank).
Main bit of fabrication left is the front mudguard stays and a new cable. The rest is finishing, setup and lubes. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Easy-X |
This post is not being displayed .
|
Easy-X Super Spammer
Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :
|
Posted: 01:45 - 02 Jan 2020 Post subject: |
|
|
That reminds me: the spring seat I had was for push-bike Same all-springs style but smaller. Soz! ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
dekip |
This post is not being displayed .
|
dekip Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 27 Jul 2019 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
stinkwheel |
This post is not being displayed .
|
stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
stinkwheel |
This post is not being displayed .
|
stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Easy-X |
This post is not being displayed .
|
Easy-X Super Spammer
Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
RhynoCZ |
This post is not being displayed .
|
RhynoCZ Super Spammer
Joined: 09 Mar 2012 Karma :
|
Posted: 23:37 - 03 Jan 2020 Post subject: |
|
|
Very well done, Mr. Stinkwheel. It looks and sounds lovely. ____________________ '87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Sister Sledge |
This post is not being displayed .
|
Sister Sledge World Chat Champion
Joined: 17 Aug 2018 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
stinkwheel |
This post is not being displayed .
|
stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
dekip |
This post is not being displayed .
|
dekip Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 27 Jul 2019 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
stinkwheel |
This post is not being displayed .
|
stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Sister Sledge |
This post is not being displayed .
|
Sister Sledge World Chat Champion
Joined: 17 Aug 2018 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
WD Forte |
This post is not being displayed .
|
WD Forte World Chat Champion
Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
stinkwheel |
This post is not being displayed .
|
stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
|
Posted: 20:00 - 09 Jan 2020 Post subject: |
|
|
I put the fork oil in and fitted the end caps last night.
Hilareous. The static sag is 100% of the fork travel, there is literally no compression left with it parked on the stand
The springs must have gone plastic while it's been parked up. I've ordered a new pair (£30 the pair). I've gone heavy duty despite it being for offroad because the travel is limited and I'm a big bastard. I'll use thinner oil to reduce the damping effect so they can respond to bumpy bits. If it lands up too bouncy, I might go back to thicker oil and drill the shim-stack on the damper rod.
I have optimistically booked an MOT for next Thursday. If I fix the springs and fit the seat and rear brake switch, it should be MOTable, the front mudguard isn't structural anyway so no matter if it's not finished in time. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 4 years, 102 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
|
|
|