problems with new purchase!

[cresad]

Hi

I recently got my full licience and got hold of a 2001 gsf600s bandit and while I got the bike with problems didn't worry to much as I've got mechanical experience just not with bandits. Got hold of the bike as a straight swap for a running 125 with the carbs needing balancing and seized brakes.
The problems I'm having are trouble getting a descent feel to the front brake lever , stripped and cleaned both front calipers refitted but on bleeding it still feels spongy. I've bled it the normal way and using a vacuum system , have got a syringe on way to try and push fluid through from the bottom. So my question is there any particular way of doing it or just keep at it ?

Stripped cleaned and rebuilt the carbs before I refitted them , balanced them up using a set of gauges and it ticks over and runs great but when cold starting with the choke it won't rev at all , is this right ? it's fine once warm.

The only other thing I've across is a tappety type noise coming from the right hand side at the top of the engine that starts up after the engine gets warm , it's quiet when starting from cold and can't really hear it above tickover.

Anyone any ideas or pointers ?

So I've problems with engine noise , starting and stopping - should be fine then

Thanks

[sickpup]

Adjust valves, replace brake lines and master cylinder seals.

[xX-Alex-Xx]

As above, a new set of braided steel lines will go a long way.

I swapped out the lines on my GSR-750 last year cos the lever felt spongy, didn't take away the feeling (stupid non-radial master !!), but they definitely pull the bike up faster.
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DILLIGAF

[sickpup]

[jaffa90]

""""but when cold starting with the choke it won't rev at all """

Q, what revs have you got on choke only?

[cresad]

I’ve been told about clamping the pipes to see if it points to one side or the other as well

The revs when on choke are about 3 - 4 thou. , but it won’t rev from that just cuts out

[Nobby the Bastard]

[cresad]

I haven’t , I’ll give it a go tomorrow

[jaffa90]

"""The revs when on choke are about 3 - 4 thou. , but it won’t rev from that just cuts out""

The choke/ starter jets sound ok, when you twist the throttle you bypass the choke.
It sounds to me like a weak mixture on the pilot jets which also work mostly up to 3,ooo rpm on the throttle.

[sickpup]

[JackButler]

Regarding the brakes, if everything else is fine then replace the MC & caliper seals with OEM or known quality patterns from the likes of Powerhouse. If everything else is fine then chances are some Johnny Spanner-Monkey has spent £4.99 on an Zanghiouxie eBay re-build kit.

The carbs - Quite normal behaviour for these primitive carbs, beware of advice from anyone who was born after FI became normal fitment. If it revs & runs cleanly after warming then don't fix it till it's broke.

The enjin noise - Oil cooled Bandits are noisy, check the tappits of course but you might be wise to find a known good Bandit owner locally so you can compare your noise to theirs . . .
____________________
I clean my guns with the tears of the snivelling, left wing scum.

[jaffa90]

[sickpup]

[cresad]

Hi all

After taking everything onboard I spent 3-4 days of trying to bleed the front brakes. I found that the right hand side was the one that was making it feel full of air , after getting through over a liter of brake fluid the missus told me to take it for an MOT and stop obsessing about it. Anyway it failed on the front brake so I've taken the plunge and sent them off to the same place as the rear to get them refurbed ( was trying to get away without spending to much in one go ). So when they get back I'll get them one and try again.
I also tried to do the tappets , is there a particular way to get the cam cover out of the way when the engine is still in the frame , mine kept getting caught with the plug hole part of the cover on the cam chain tower part , if that makes sense.

At least I know that once the brakes are done I'll be able to get it MOT'd and be able to get back on the road with it - Yay

Thanks , Guys

[cresad]

Well just had email from the company I'd sent the calipers to and it seems the slider post was bent , so not sure if finding this will cure the bad bleeding problem or the binding but hopefully when they get back I should be able to get it sorted and mot'd. Just got to figure out how to change the sidelight bulb in the front - you 'd think it would be straight forward.

Cresad

[Nobby the Bastard]

Did you sort out your tickover?
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[cresad]

To be honest I don’t know if it’s just me getting used to a new bike , when I start with it on choke the revs are 3thousand revs once it’s had a short while I can get the chick off and they drop to about a thousand but with the choke on I can’t rev it as it just cuts out , so Like I said I don’t know if it’s me or the bike
I can sort of live with it I just need to start it up and let it warm up while I get helmet and gloves on then turn the choke off and ride as normal.

Adam

[megaross]

Your carbs need setting up properly most likely, they're simple but sensitive as nuts. Best thing is to baseline the settings, get the bike hot then tune the idle mixture by ear for the smoothest running then rebalance your carbs.

Fuelling is never perfect with carbs but you can get it pretty damn near if it's jetted and set up right.

If you've got an aftermarket exhaust/ pod filters or anything like that your carbs probably need rejetting. That can cause hesitation especially when cold.

In terms of brakes if you've bled the calipers and all the banjos and all the lines are good (if it's on original rubber lines they're well overdue replacement) then odds are you've got a dodgey master cylinder or a really awkward air bubble - keep tapping, bleeding, bleeding the banjos, try hanging the calipers above the master etc.

One thing you can also try is cable tie the brake lever and leave some pressure on it overnight, that can help shift air bubbles overnight. Never seen it but heard of it.
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'07 Tiger 1050

[jaffa90]

Well i sit back and smoke my pipe.

"""Your carbs need setting up properly most likely, they're simple but sensitive as nuts. Best thing is to baseline the settings, get the bike hot then tune the idle mixture by ear for the smoothest running then rebalance your carbs.

Fuelling is never perfect with carbs but you can get it pretty damn near if it's jetted and set up right.

If you've got an aftermarket exhaust/ pod filters or anything like that your carbs probably need rejetting. That can cause hesitation especially when cold."""

This guy (megaross) knows what he`s talking about.

[Nobby the Bastard]

[jaffa90]

No not 900rpm but 1000rpm is high enough.

There you go my friend.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zn50KYvv1rU&feature=youtu.be

[Nobby the Bastard]

[jaffa90]

sickpup has gone quiet.

[sickpup]