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Changing chain and sprockets 2006 ZX6R

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trevoriv
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PostPosted: 08:04 - 31 Mar 2020    Post subject: Changing chain and sprockets 2006 ZX6R Reply with quote

How difficult is this? My garage is closed and I've already spunked a few quid on the chain and sprocket kit so I was going to try and do this myself, the internets and Haynes suggests that it's not too difficult even for a novice such as myself however I cant seem to find a reasonably priced chain breaker and riveting tool that gets good reviews and do we think that I'll need an impact wrench to get the sprockets off or will it be doable by hand?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 09:33 - 31 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use an angle grinder (or failing that a hacksaw) to remove the old chain. It's not like you're going to need it.

A g clamp with a ball bearing on the end will do for a riveting tool.
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colink98
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PostPosted: 10:24 - 31 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

its unlikely you will need an impact wrench...
the bolts should not be too tight.

if you apply the rear break this will hold the rear sprocket and front sprocket place while you loosen the bolts.
(BEFORE YOU TAKE OFF THE CHAIN)

note when putting the new chain on you only have to mushroom the rivet head enough to hold on the link plate.
too tight and you can cause the link to bind.
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Evil Hans
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PostPosted: 10:56 - 31 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Use an angle grinder (or failing that a hacksaw) to remove the old chain. It's not like you're going to need it.


^ This.

I got a cheap ebay riveting tool. From what I've seen, it's attempting to push out the old rivets that snaps the cheap tools, mine is fine for putting 'em in.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:43 - 31 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I remove sprocket nuts by sitting on top of the wheel and using a breaker-bar and socket. The wheel is stable like this and you can get both hands on the bar and push down with the nut you're working on at the 6 o' clock position.

You can use a set of mole grips and an M6 nut to push the keeper plate over the pins on a softlink. Just incrementally increase the tension on the grips by a fraction of a turn each time. Use the nut over the end of the pin so it can push through.

Once it's on, you just need a way of deforming the ends of the pin enough that they can't come out. I've done it before today using a ball bearing in the mole grips in a similar way to that described above or by placing a heavy hammer on the back of the pin to act as an anvil and smacking the end of the pin with a second hammer (true rivetting). If the end is visibly mushroomed, it's not coming off again.
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FretGrinder
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PostPosted: 12:56 - 31 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

You want to be removing the front sprocket nut first, a good way is to keep the chain on, put a good solid piece of wood through the rear wheel so that it rests on the swing arm and then a long breaker bar to untighten the sprocket nut.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 13:41 - 31 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

FretGrinder wrote:
You want to be removing the front sprocket nut first, a good way is to keep the chain on, put a good solid piece of wood through the rear wheel so that it rests on the swing arm and then a long breaker bar to untighten the sprocket nut.


Obviously, dont try this with anything with wire spokes....
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 14:38 - 31 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

An impact wrench makes the job trivial... go on, you know you want one Wink
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trevoriv
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PostPosted: 07:37 - 01 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers all. I was just going to dremel the chain off. I'll try and get everything off this weekend then I'll get a cheap riveting tool and give that ago.

And I do want an impact wrench but I cant think of much that I would use it for, I dont mess with the bike or cars much as you can probably tell!
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Confusion
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PostPosted: 12:19 - 01 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

trevoriv wrote:
Cheers all. I was just going to dremel the chain off.


Cut it off any way you like once you are sure it won't be needed again.

Quote:
I'll try and get everything off this weekend then I'll get a cheap riveting tool and give that ago.


Do it slowly and measure carefully at each stage.

Make sure the pins, bushes and O-rings are well
lubricated before you assemble the link.

Take care with pressing on the side plates. Use a fraction of
a turn on the pressing tool, measure again and again
until the width of the link is the same as the adjacent links.

Measure the rivet ends before and after flaring. Follow the
manufacturers spec. Typical flaring spec for a soft rivet link
is +0.2 to 0.4mm. For a DID 530 with a pin diameter of 5.5mm,
the flared rivet will be 5.7 to 5.9mm. Once you get to the middle
of the required range, you must resist the urge to give it another
push for good measure.

If you don't have a local source of rivet links, you should consider
ordering an extra one as a spare, just in case things go wrong on
the first attempt.

Quote:
And I do want an impact wrench but I cant think of much that I would use it for


In most cases, a six-sided socket and a long breaker bar will
shift it. You may even find that it is quite loose. Based on my
experience, there is a less than 1-in-10 chance that it will be
so tight you will need a large impact wrench to get it off.
Plan for this possibility. As others have said, don't cut the chain
until the sprocket nut is off. Be prepared to abandon the job,
refit the sprocket cover and bring the bike to your local
truck tyre shop to get the nut off.
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trevoriv
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PostPosted: 20:48 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally got round to giving this a go. Rear brake wont hold the wheel and managed to snap a piece of 2 by 4 wedged between the wheel and swingarm!

The nut is stepped with a shallow 32mm up against the washer with a smaller deeper 27mm, couldn't find a 27mm socket so was trying with my 32mm. Will try again tomorrow with a 27mm when I find one.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 23:48 - 13 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be sure to bend the tab washer down first. Might not seem obvious to a novice mechanic but the big washer behind the nut will be folded up one edge to keep the nut from coming loose. Pry it away from the nut with a flat bladed tool then use a hammer and socket to flatten it right back.

27mm is the right socket I think.
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trevoriv
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PostPosted: 20:30 - 14 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nearly snapped another piece of wood and nearly broke my wrist but got the nut off. Least fun job I've done on the bike.

Now just waiting for my cheap riveting tool to arrive...
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trevoriv
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PostPosted: 11:54 - 18 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone need a rear sprocket, one careful none engine breaking owner, 43 teeth (at one point!)

https://i.imgur.com/5EQYC1V.jpg
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 12:00 - 18 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

trevoriv wrote:
Anyone need a rear sprocket, one careful none engine breaking owner, 43 teeth (at one point!)

https://i.imgur.com/5EQYC1V.jpg


Wow that looks like bodyguards mouth.
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trevoriv
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PostPosted: 13:03 - 18 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone got any tips for cleaning the gunk?

https://i.imgur.com/ZGPqSS9.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zQ8Bruj.jpg

Might as well try and give things a clean whilst the wheel is out:

https://i.imgur.com/TMmnO2G.jpg
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martin734
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PostPosted: 14:14 - 18 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

trevoriv wrote:
Anyone need a rear sprocket, one careful none engine breaking owner, 43 teeth (at one point!)

https://i.imgur.com/5EQYC1V.jpg

Bllody hell, my gran's got better teeth than that. Shocked
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 14:21 - 18 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

trevoriv wrote:
Anyone got any tips for cleaning the gunk?

https://i.imgur.com/ZGPqSS9.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zQ8Bruj.jpg

Might as well try and give things a clean whilst the wheel is out:

https://i.imgur.com/TMmnO2G.jpg


If that's all the gunk you got there's no wonder your sprocket's knackered. Normal chain greasing would make it much worse.

Anyway, WD40 will clean it, or some petrol in a pot, and an old 1.5" paint brush with the bristles cut down to half length. Put something down to protect the floor as it'll stain everything.
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trevoriv
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PostPosted: 14:46 - 18 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers, I'll start with some WD and go from there.

I know I dont really look after the bike, it's just a hack for commuting but since I dont need it to do that at the moment I might as well give it some TLC.

Front sprocket wasnt too bad, chain was proper shagged.
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Gazza M
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PostPosted: 16:04 - 18 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paraffin's your friend there. WD40/petrol does work but will evaporate quickly, paraffin stays around til the job's done. Most forecourts have it Thumbs Up

Might be too late, but have you gone for another ally sprocket? Once the hard anodising has worn the teeth disappear pretty quickly
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Mr Hammers
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PostPosted: 16:35 - 18 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been using Gunk for cleaning greasy/oily for decades. Perfect for this sort of thing. Doesn't leave an oily residue like paraffin.

5 litres usually lasts me 9-12 months.
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trevoriv
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 18 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr Hammers wrote:
I've been using Gunk for cleaning greasy/oily for decades. Perfect for this sort of thing. Doesn't leave an oily residue like paraffin.

5 litres usually lasts me 9-12 months.


Probably last me 12 years. Only cleaned the bike with soap and water twice in the last 6 years or so!
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Tdibs
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 18 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Although its a bit late now, cleaning the fuck out of it with a hose/pressure washer before doing jobs like this makes it all a bit easier Razz
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