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Spare Crankset

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 Topic moved: from The Workshop to The Cycling Forum by stinkwheel (16 Apr 2020 - 23:08)
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Trekblur456
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Joined: 16 Apr 2020
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 16 Apr 2020    Post subject: Spare Crankset Reply with quote

What’s up everyone! Thx for trying to help me with my question. Ok! I ride a 170mm crankset with a square taper bottom bracket. I’m curious to see what a 175mm(octalink) crank would feel like as I think it would better at building speed as well as give me a better workout. The crank I’m on now is a 24/34/42. The175mm is a 30/42/52. It’s a mtb so turn clearance isn’t an issue and I’m not worried about my height either. Sooooo. Should I assume I can keep everything the same besides the bb and only need to raise the front derailleur slightly? The cog is an 11-28t. Other question is about the new bottom bracket. The 175 needs an octalink bb. Does it matter if it’s a v1 or v2 as long as it’s the same spindle and width? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks for viewing my first post!
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 16 Apr 2020    Post subject: Re: Spare Crankset Reply with quote

Trekblur456 wrote:
and I’m not worried about my height either.


Oh dear, so many here are..... I think we've got a bicycling section here somewhere... hang on... Yes!

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewforum.php?f=56

You might get some answers here I suppose, but whether they'll be useful ones...
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 00:17 - 17 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

People are still running triple cranksets?

52/11 on an MTB seems very steep. What wheel size?

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_n-o.html#octalink
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weasley
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PostPosted: 00:35 - 17 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, 11-28T cassette on a MTB?
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Trekblur456
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PostPosted: 02:25 - 17 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
People are still running triple cranksets?

52/11 on an MTB seems very steep. What wheel size?

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_n-o.html#octalink


700c
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 03:19 - 17 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

So this an oldschool mountain bike like people used to run in the 80's? Wide shallow drops, ridgid frame and if you were lucky, cantilever brakes? (Now apparently re-invented as a "gravel bike"). What you got? I'm nosy and i like oddities

My wife does triathalons and she doesn't even run 52/11 on her road bike.

My oppinion, the longer crank but higher gearing range is one step forwards, two steps back. Only reason I can think for having longer cranks is for winding it up hills. But you are gearing it overall higher anyway with the new setup. We also all know we ought to be spinning them up hills, not winding them up. Actually, I'd have thought it would be easier to build speed by spinning more on shorter cranks (lower pedal velocity, they are doing a smaller circle ).

If you aren't spining-out in your current top gear, you are risking really compromising your climbing ability.

I see no reason why you can't do it mind, it's your bike. I can't really talk, my MTB is single speed and ridgid. Mainly because I detest everything about deraleieur gears.

You may need to piss about with the chain line to get decent shifting to the chainrings either end, no garauntee it'll land up in the same place as the old one. The only real way is to suck it and see, then buy a different length BB if it's too far off.

As it happens, I have retrofitted an octolink to an MTB that came with a square taper. Both deore XT. Only because the crankset was on offer and the original was worn out. it was cheaper to buy the octalink and a new BB than a replacement JIS.

In that case, the chainline worked out within fidgiting distance on the same length BB although it also had the same gearing as the original.

You certain you're not going to get toestrike? Double check how close your toe comes to the front tyre when steered.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 03:23 - 17 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will the octalink make a difference? Not really, it's just a better way of attaching things much the same as rear cassettes are much more convenient than the old screw on types of yesteryear.

Will going from 24/34/42 to 30/42/52 make a difference? Fuck yeah, hope you've got legs like tree trunks Wink
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 03:26 - 17 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
So this an oldschool mountain bike like people used to run in the 80's?


Most likely a 29er, all gone that way these days. Which suits me as top end 26/27.5 frames go for fuck all now they're out of fashion (me being a short arse and all.)
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 10:56 - 17 Apr 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

While 29" and 700c have the same effective rim diameter, they are not the same. The 29" rims are wider. I've run 700c rims on an MTB before, you can only get the narrowest of narrow MTB tyres on.

11-28t does sound like a road cassette too. Possibly even a 7 or 8 speed (which would fit with a triple crankset).

I wonder if the OPs bike would take a wider range cassette, Then he could look at using a 2-ring crankset while retaining the gearing range. May have a wider choice of cranksets too?
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 1 year, 30 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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