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Calipers and tyres?

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kramdra
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PostPosted: 11:49 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Calipers and tyres? Reply with quote

Been riding offroad a bit more, got plain road tyres right now. The wheels are 700c with 35 tyres.

What are the best cheap knoblies that will fit? Mosty dry mud trails, plenty of downhill bits and large roots.

I want to swap the v brakes for hydrualic calipers. What to get?
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 12:31 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

These look OK if you've got clearance around frame/mudguards for 40mm tyres;

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/schwalbe-smart-sam-performance-tyre/rp-prod171961

You could get away with a less aggressive tread if you're only on dry trails though (but even "dry" trails get muddy sometimes).

Hydraulics will require new brake levers and possibly gear shifters too if they're incorporated with the brake levers. I presume you're after more powerful braking and given you mention tending towards dry biking, I doubt fast pad wear is an issue for you (e.g. in muddy grit, where the self adjusting nature of hydraulics are handy). To be honest, v-brakes can be plenty powerful enough if properly set up with good quality pads (e.g. KoolStops) - I'd at least consider trying this first as it's not an expensive experiment plus you could probably transfer the pads to a hydraulic setup if you still find the performance inadequate.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:20 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm rocking smart sams on my 29"er. No complaints. they will cope with a lot.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 18:30 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, smart sams seem like a good option.

https://i.postimg.cc/xjxqs3Tn/IMG-20200625-175322.jpg

I have continental comfort contact's at the moment and they are semi slicks.
https://i.postimg.cc/zBmf9Kdv/IMG-20200625-193637.jpg

Also need a better seat. I am not used to riding and doing 50 miles this week Ive got a bruised arse.


Last edited by kramdra on 21:04 - 25 Jun 2020; edited 1 time in total
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is this where I go "how wide's your rim?" fnarr, fnarr Smile
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 21:01 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:


That headset spacer gap is shocking. I hope you didnt use threadlock on it.

Judging by the seat your piles must be like a bunch of grapes to need one like that.
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Dave....
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PostPosted: 21:29 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I want to swap the v brakes for hydrualic calipers. What to get?


Youll need a new set of wheels for starters possibly unless Im mistaken their not disc compatible. Might end up costing a bit
Nothing wrong with V-brakes if setup right.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:36 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyway. Try the tyres you have. You'll probably be surprised. Those will be fine on gravel/dry mud. I've taken my ridgid single speed road bike along several blue routes in the dry and did fine on it

What I'll warn you about right now though is if you try to go over stuff that's very rough and bumpy on 700c (eg, big roots), you'll either get your teeth rattled out of their sockets with 90psi in or loads of pinch flats.

You won't be able to fit a proper, high-profile MTB tyre to that, not enough clearance between the chainstays. 29"er tyres will fit on the 700c rims but when I did similar with a 700c cross country bike, even fitting a 29x 1.70 tyre I had to pinch the chainstay tubes.

I initially tried with 700c cyclocross tyres and they were plenty grippy but as soon as I hit rocks etc, they popped. Even when pumped right up.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 22:38 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Set those V brakes up properly. Razz

The best cheap knobblies are whatever tyres are reduced by 50% or more for clearance purposes.

I don't /think/ your frame has disc brake mounts.

That saddle looks uncomfortable, has it got one of those foam cover things on it? Sick
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:46 - 25 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aww. I thought OP was getting a set of magura HS33s.

https://www.cyclingabout.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/magurabrakessantos-700-80.jpg
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 08:27 - 26 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes that saddle looks terrible; it's a misconception that a big squishy saddle is the most comfortable. It will feel so when you first jump on but it doesn't offer the support for hours in the saddle. A thin bit of padding helps to take a bit of buzz out but other than that it should be fairly firm. My touring bicycle as a Brooks saddle on it; rock hard leather, but it's mega comfy and I wouldn't choose anything else for spending weeks at a time on my bike. It's not ideal for an off road bike though.

To be honest, looking at that bike, I wouldn't be inclined to invest big money to make it work off road. As stinkwheel says, those tyres are adequate for dry conditions. New pads and your brakes set up properly and you might be surprised how powerful your brakes are.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 09:28 - 26 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Frame, forks and wheels do have disc and calliper mounts. The front wheel has some runout on the rim which gives a noticable pulsing when braking on a steep hill. I will get the wheels trued but I still want to upgrade.

I have tried the tyres, not good, no grip or confidence on any downhill dirt also they have splitting which is anoying, they were not cheap!. I think the sams will do well.

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
That headset spacer gap is shocking. I hope you didnt use threadlock on it.

Judging by the seat your piles must be like a bunch of grapes to need one like that.


Not a problem I have. The seat and headset are as Evans sold it to me in 2010.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 11:10 - 26 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Need a few more photo angles but the clearances don't look like they suit fat knobblies. If you're happy with this as a road bike then are there any space/storage considerations that stop you from having a dedicated off-road bike?

Next door neighbour's kid had a similar bike and they stuck some knobblies on it (out of poverty rather than choice) and I noted they had entirely disconnected the front caliper to get it to fit! One for the Darwin awards Wink

Otherwise, if you need to keep just a single bike, I think you might like some Schwalbe Marathon or Marathon Plus tyres:

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tyres-700c-622-rigid/

i.e. winter tyres, might get away with it.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 15:08 - 02 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the front brake fitted today, not ridden yet I need to sort the gear lever.
https://i.postimg.cc/mrZS9FXg/IMG-20200702-150419.jpg
I assume the lever pin needs to be driven out with a punch?
https://i.postimg.cc/4x4b9gMv/IMG-20200702-140825.jpg

The v brake pivot pins have 9mm spanner flats but dont appear to budge. Looks threaded, probably locked and just needs some heat, but what is that 2.5mm hole behind it?

https://i.postimg.cc/5N4FPm3b/IMG-20200702-143640.jpg

Did 60km yesterday. I do need a narrower, less padded seat. Seats are expensive Shocked What is a decent, cheap seat?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:41 - 02 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The little hole is for the end of the return spring.

Some lever pins have a tiny little circlip inboard of the lever perch (between the lever and the perch).

Could do worse than one of on-ones Holdsworth saddles. Based on a classic Rolls/Turbo (each of which would cost more than this new in tatty, used condition). Classic "road" saddle. Just a nod to padding.
https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/SAHOGS/holdsworth-gran-sport-saddle

Their "bignose" is a more conventional MTB saddle though, again for £20.

I'm rocking a Dios Thronous saddle on my MTB but they are getting super expensive now. Effectively crocs for your arse.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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winz
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PostPosted: 16:14 - 02 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:


They take me back to my old trails days 20 years ago! Had a set of those on my DMR Sidekick.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 02 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also measured for tyres. The rear lower tubes have clearance for 50mm, upper tubes 65mm.
Forks would be plenty of clearance but for the wheel being off 10mm off centre due to the disc hub, but it will fit 50mm.

stinkwheel wrote:
I'm rocking smart sams on my 29"er. No complaints. they will cope with a lot.


Are they noticably worse for road use?

I am now thinking a pair of 700c 45 landcruisers would be best compromise and biggest that will fit my wheels.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SCHWALBE-LAND-CRUISER-PLUS-Cycle-Bike-Tyres-Hybrid-Tour-CycloX24-26-28/113154826773
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 02 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reminds me of the continental double fighters. Not quite as severe on the sides but very handy on wet days when you're going tarmac to gravel to mud to wood etc.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:31 - 02 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Also measured for tyres. The rear lower tubes have clearance for 50mm, upper tubes 65mm.
Forks would be plenty of clearance but for the wheel being off 10mm off centre due to the disc hub, but it will fit 50mm.


Re-dish the wheel it so the rim is in the middle. Easy to do. If you want to move the rim to the right, you start at a marked point then work right round and tighten the right spokes a quarter turn and loosen the left spokes a quarter turn, then check your dish again. Rinse and repeat.

Quote:
Are they noticably worse for road use?


Yes, they suck on the road. All offroad tyres do. Some suck worse than others but they all still suck. I'd rather ride offroad on road tyres then on the road with offroad tyres.

I recommended a tyre good for "dry mud trails, plenty of downhill bits and large roots" didn't realise you were stil riding it on the road too. For those conditions I'd just use a general purpose road tyre with a modicum of tread on. People ride round the world on Schwalbe Marathons.

Maybe some of the newer type gravel tyres wouldn't be totally awful on tarmac if you wanted a bit more tread.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 00:21 - 03 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im happy with the wheel being off center, still rides and handles fine and there is clearance for a 45mm tyre.

I did not realise how much fuckery would be involved. Almost done I will trim the plastic, new downshift handle and epoxy any new holes, not that the shifter bit was in anyway sealed to begin with. The original brake lever pin was a 2 peice rivet, if anyone wondering I drilled it out before cutting the rest off.

https://i.postimg.cc/RVGFBqt0/IMG-20200702-225357.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/63dW1Qwt/IMG-20200702-225413.jpg
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 13:21 - 03 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

That always seemed to be a constant quest: finding separate levers and shifters that play nice together. And then when you get something that fits you realise you've totally n00bed out and got the wrong ratio on the gear pull Sad

Regarding road tyres I used to find them fine on all but wet mud and slimy wood (like it goes when it's raining) so for fair weather riders it's not such a big deal.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:13 - 03 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
That always seemed to be a constant quest: finding separate levers and shifters that play nice together. And then when you get something that fits you realise you've totally n00bed out and got the wrong ratio on the gear pull Sad

Regarding road tyres I used to find them fine on all but wet mud and slimy wood (like it goes when it's raining) so for fair weather riders it's not such a big deal.


It's why I go single speed.

Actually, I reckon my rear wheel is on its way out (really nasty quality rim) and I might go for a 2-speed kick-shift this time.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 22:27 - 06 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recently bought some MEK and so had a go at solvent welding some abs sheet to the shifter caps. Need a bit of sanding, epoxy and quick spray black but I am suprised how well it bonded. Angled up for gluing..

https://i.postimg.cc/zDMY2r9L/IMG-20200706-193705.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/05fq12xv/IMG-20200707-192708.jpg

Good practise for the cbr6 fairings that I need to do next.

Also ordered a seat. 7 pound delivered from ebay china.


Last edited by kramdra on 12:03 - 16 Jul 2020; edited 1 time in total
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 12:01 - 16 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

These Clarks M2's appear to use mineral oil brake fluid, which I assumed was cheap unregulated of the same type as DOT, which it is not, appears incompatable, bugger.

Wanting to shorten the brake hoses to suit the bike. Where can I buy decent mineral oil at a non extortionate price?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:21 - 16 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apparently the stuff shimano use is identical to the "green goo" hydrostatic fluid citroen use in their suspension in every respect but colour.

It's what I have in the wifes SLX brakes.

LHM fluid.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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