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CBF 1000 - Cooling system issue / warning light - ideas?

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NJD
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 13 Aug 2020    Post subject: CBF 1000 - Cooling system issue / warning light - ideas? Reply with quote

So before you continue to read its worth knowing that (a) I am taking the bike to the local shop tomorrow for them to have a look, but since (b) the shop I've sold the bike to on a P/X are now coming to collect it tomorrow afternoon there's a high chance the local shop will just say "we wont have the time, let them deal with it." So, in short, I'm asking here for ideas so I can give the guy that arrives as much information about what it may be as possible. Mainly because they've spent £140 on a new fuel tank alone for the bike I've purchased, on top of whatever other work they've done (yes their aware of problem).

Before Friday: no issues, no signs.

Friday 30 degree's: loads of town work, warning red light on dash comes on while waiting at a set of lights. Goes out when I move away. Comes on a couple more times on the way to where I'm going.

No light on the way home. Mostly on the move with minimal stopping.

Monday 30 degree's: light comes on once at the end of the ride at my destination. No light on the way home.

Today 21 degrees and cooler: light comes on once while waiting at a set of lights.

Narrowed it down tonight to fan kicking in after about five miles and then being in constant use until I finish my ride. Engine running warm, but not sure if warmer than should be.

- No signs of leaks.
- No instant coolant dump the first time the light came on, or otherwise.
- Water coolant pipes are warm after a ride.
- Fan works, turn on and turns off when the ignition is turned off.
- Changing the fuse did nothing (as expected, really).
- Radiator could benefit from a blow of compressed air (dirt).
- Bike starts and rides as should.
- Light only comes on after a few miles of riding in traffic when waiting at lights. Not on when ignition switched on. Goes out when on the move.
- Coolant fresh (few months old) and level appropriate (to best of knowledge).

The "red" light is a coolant temperature indicator. Owners manual says glows red when coolant is over specified temperature. Turn engine off and take to shop etc.

Thanks for any help.
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BigTim
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Joined: 29 Sep 2017
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PostPosted: 22:45 - 13 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

have recently sold my CBF1000 but the guys on www.cbf1000.com helped me out with various problems.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 22:57 - 13 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

BigTim wrote:
have recently sold my CBF1000 but the guys on www.cbf1000.com helped me out with various problems.


Aye I'm a member on there but Art seems the main active member and given the very slow replies / not really active forum figured I'd ask on here to get a general opinion.

Shop I've sold the bike to are happy to have it still, but naturally want to save them time / money.

Thanks for the response / suggestion. Thumbs Up
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 00:45 - 14 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

It`s an age of lean burn engines due to emissions / pollution.
They all produce more heat when waiting / stopped at lights.
The time will come when all bikes have a stop and start system like modern cars.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 02:54 - 14 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD, Here are some suggestions:
1. Check the thermostat to make sure that it opens and closes through its operating range and that it is not broken or missing. Contrary to common belief, removing the thermostat will not cause the engine to run cooler. It will in fact cause the engine to be slower to warm up, but after it warms up the engine will run hotter, since a portion of coolant flow will be diverted away from the radiator.
2. Check the coolant hoses for bends or kinks that might restrict flow.
3. Check the radiator for obstructions to air flow; debris or bent fins.
4. Make sure the fan is working (you said yes), and that the fan has not been installed backwards. (probably not, but possible).
5. Inspect the water pump impeller. The impeller can cavitate if there is a restriction between the radiator and water pump.

You say the hoses get hot, that suggests a functioning water pump.
The fan operates, that suggests a functional temp sensor and fan circuit.
The fan "stays in constant use" for an extended period of time, that suggests the radiator is unable to reject enough heat to keep the coolant temperature within range.
I suspect a broken thermostat or obstruction to flow.
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colink98
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Joined: 27 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: 09:45 - 14 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

the only difference to cooling between being in motion and being stationary is the provision of air flow across the radiator.
When stationary this is the job of the fan.

if the issue only occurs when stationary.
then it must be an issue with the operation of the fan.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 13:49 - 14 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

ColinK98 wrote:
the only difference to cooling between being in motion and being stationary is the provision of air flow across the radiator.
When stationary this is the job of the fan.

if the issue only occurs when stationary.
then it must be an issue with the operation of the fan.

Not quite. The other cooling difference is the water pump, which will be at minimum speed when idle and faster when moving. jeffyjeff suggested the water pump and I would endorse that. On some older Honda cars I have seen the impeller completely corroded/eroded away, such that they do pretty much nothing at idle but there's enough cooling on the move to compensate.
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xX-Alex-Xx
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PostPosted: 13:53 - 14 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

weasley wrote:
ColinK98 wrote:
the only difference to cooling between being in motion and being stationary is the provision of air flow across the radiator.
When stationary this is the job of the fan.

if the issue only occurs when stationary.
then it must be an issue with the operation of the fan.

Not quite. The other cooling difference is the water pump, which will be at minimum speed when idle and faster when moving. jeffyjeff suggested the water pump and I would endorse that. On some older Honda cars I have seen the impeller completely corroded/eroded away, such that they do pretty much nothing at idle but there's enough cooling on the move to compensate.


Kinda sounds like the bike's been run on pure water for a while allowing corrosion and a screwed pump?
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 16:51 - 14 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

xX-Alex-Xx wrote:
Kinda sounds like the bike's been run on pure water for a while allowing corrosion and a screwed pump?

Could be, but there are other possibilities. If the bike were mine, I would do a thorough cooling system inspection on a day off.
1. Thermostat (first on the list because it is the most likely cause.) If it's broken, it might be obvious. Hang it on a wire into some boiling water and make sure it opens.
2. Radiator. Remove it and run garden hose through it. Make sure it flows freely and the cooling fins are not effed up. Normally, I would inspect the fan along with the radiator, but the fan is not the problem since it is running constantly. ALMOST FORGOT, check the pressure cap. If the pressure cap fails, the loss of system pressure can cause localized boiling (normally in the head) that will reduce the cooling system's ability to reject heat. (it will also piss a good amount of coolant out the recovery tank overflow.)
3. Cooling system hoses. You have them off, run the garden hose through them as well.
4. Water pump. Inspect the impeller and the intake for obstruction.
5. If you have the means, check the engine temperature with a thermometer, thermocouple, or infrared temp gun. The hose from the cylinder head to the thermostat housing will carry the hottest coolant as it completes its cycle. Most thermostats control the coolant temperature within a range of approximately 180 - 197 F.
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Last edited by jeffyjeff on 02:15 - 15 Aug 2020; edited 1 time in total
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NJD
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PostPosted: 19:39 - 14 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank-you for all your responses. I took it down to my local shop this morning to have them read the fault codes and nothing came back, fan was kicking in at correct temp and something else they said. Surprisingly they didn't charge me, and I only phoned them yesterday. Result.

Passed on some of the responses to the guy that collected the bike, but even what I'd call the bikes worse parts he wasn't all that bothered about. I've told them, and done all I can, so nothing can come back on me at least.

Problem occurred Friday, and they wanted to collect today (phoning a day or two before). I only rode about three times since then, including Friday, so I didn't really have the time to properly rip into it. Either way they've got a workshop full of techs with more tools and equipment than I have.

I appreciate the help, but am glad its a problem I don't have to live with or resolve. Laughing Thumbs Up
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